Performance parts list . 86-89 accord

I feel the need to make this thread for all the new members out there. I will TRY to list all of the performance part available for the 86-89 accord with the A-series motor, unless specified . I will not list the pros. or cons. of each item or power gain, just companies/members and products, and will be your responsibility to SEARCH!!!. "Other" section will be for parts that will fit with some modifications but again it will be your responsibility to SEARCH!!!. If you do not see the parts that you are looking for, it means that they will have to be custom made.

IMPORTANT KEY: (*) For FI models, (**) For carb. models, (+) Both models


Air Induction
Short ram intake: Weapon R. * NOTE: I would recommend the DIY in the wiki over the Weapon R.
Air Filters: K&N filters. + AEM, Injen, HKS, ect... have universal type filters that fit short ram intakes or CAI.
Throttle body: Gude Performance.* NOTE: I would recommend a B series manifold first. see "other" section below.
Intake flange: Discontinued: Weir Tech. +
Intake manifold: Gude Performance. + NOTE: I would recommend an aftermarket B series manifold. See "other" section below.
Individual throttle bodies (ITB's) kit: Extrudabody.+
ITB manifold (EFI and twin DCOE40's): Extrudabody for EFI and twin DCOE40's. +
Heat shielding gasket: Bisimoto. +

-Other
Cold air intake (CAI): Modified from another car or custom made. Perfect "how to" in 3geez wiki. *
Intake manifold: Another option would be to use a B16/B18 OEM or performance manifold, will fit with a bit of work.*
Intake manifold for B20A: Same as the A20.*
Throttle body: Many for B-series manifold. *
ITB's: Same as the intake manifolds. *


EXHAUST
Headers: Pacesetters and OBX. Discontinued: DC sports and S&S. +
Exhaust flange: Discontinued: Weir Tech, BMC. +
Catalytic converter: Magnaflow 49 state and California, Random Technology. +
Cat back exhaust: Monza. + NOTE:An alternative would be going to a muffler shop with your own muffler and resonator.

-Other
Headers for JDM B20A: H22 headers and supposedly 90-94 eclipse DOHC non-turbo fit with a couple of mods. +


ENGINE
Camshaft regrind: Delta, Colt cams, Crower, Bisimoto, Gude Performance, Crane Cams. +
Valve springs: Bisimoto. +
Adjustable cam gear: Bisimoto. Discontinued: Golden Eagle. +
Head studs: ARP from 98-00 Mazda Miata (Part# 218-4703)
Main bearings: Toga, King engine bearings
Con. rod bearings: ACL Race Series. +
Weber kit: Redline (Weber 32/36, 38/38, or twin DCOE40's). **
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator (AFPR): AEM, Aeromotive, Blox. *
Fuel pump: Walbro, Venom. *
Poly mount brackets: Cygnus X-1 (3geez member). +
Copper Headgasket Cometic gaskets +

-Other
Fuel rail: None for stock manifold but plenty for B series manifold. *
Connecting rods: Aftermarket LS rods fit with some mods. +
Pistons: I believe 83mm B series pistons work but check first.+
Pistons for JDM B20A: B16 pistons fit with mods. *


ELECTRICAL
OBD1 Harness: CJS Wiring. *
OBD1 dist. adapt. plate: Cygnus X-1 (3geez member). *
OBD1 Jumper harness: Boomslang Fabrications. Discontinued: lx-incredible's jumper harness (3geez member). *
Spark plug wires: NGK, Magnecor, Nology. +

-Other
OBD1 Jumper harness: Any OBD0-OBD1 jumper harness will work with mods. *


DRIVETRAIN
Aluminum flywheel: Clutch Net, Aasco. +
Clutch kit: ACT, Spec, Clutch Net, Clutch Masters, Centerforce, Unorthodox Racing. +
Short throw shifter: Chedda_Jsauto's Adjustable short shifter and other cool stuff (3geez member). Discontinued: Pacesetters. +
Shifter stabilizer bushing kit: Energy suspensions (16.1101R). +

-Other
Limited slip differential (LSD): Wavetrac or any other B16 LSD with some mods. 5-speed only. +


TURBO
Turbo manifold: Mosselman (might be discontinued). *

-Other
Turbo kit: Build your own from scratch.


ENGINE SWAP
Motor mounts for B-swap: Innovative Mounts. Discontinued: PlaceRacing Inc. +

NOTE ON BISIMOTO: Some of the parts listed above may not appear on their website but if you contact them, they should have it.

If you see that I have made a mistake somewhere or that I'm completely off about a part, please PM so I can correct it. Also, if you know of more parts that are not listed, PM so I can add them to the list.

Update: 8/9/15

maybe add links to parts websites

Nice add. let hope they use the the search for this lol

So has anyone verified the 90-94 eclipsed headers.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by import racer

So has anyone verified the 90-94 eclipsed headers.

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Those were on the B20A

Great write up. Should be a stickied.

Pm a mod after everything is done and edited.

Good info.

So how much work to make h22 ones fit a20.Or would the obx ones be better.

The Eclipse header won't fit an A series motor. The center exhaust ports are offest on the A series, and the Eclipse header and H22 headers have evenly spaced ports like the B20A.

I'm watching this thread. If you don't mind, I'd like to clean it up and post it in the FAQ once we have gone through and verified that everyone is covered.

What about headers from a 4th or 5th gen accord? I found a set of 4-2-1 Dc headers that the guy says will fit on a 1994-1997 accord. will they fit on my A20A1?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by honda crew

What about headers from a 4th or 5th gen accord? I found a set of 4-2-1 Dc headers that the guy says will fit on a 1994-1997 accord. will they fit on my A20A1?

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Read what he listed, if it's not there then it will need modifying....

No. You're getting away from offset exhaust ports again.

If it isn't meant to fit on an BT, BS, or A series engine, it's not going to work without changing the flange and moving the tubing to match the exhaust port. By the time you've put that much work into a manifold, you're not far from having a ground-up custom manifold.

While it is just metal, you do have to be able to cut, fit, and weld any manifold modification.

4th gen accord test pipe fits. Don't know if that's been thrown in yet..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gfrg88

4th gen accord test pipe fits. Don't know if that's been thrown in yet..

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correction to that. to make a 4th gen test pipe fit you must cut the exhuat pipe behind the cat and reweld it. the flanges are the same but they are positioned different

You also missed out the best clutch manufacturer Clutch net they also do ally flywheels too.

I like this.

Btw as far as the obd1 jumper harness goes, any obd0 to obd1 mpfi harness will work.

Ill see if i have anything to add later.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ghettogeddy

maybe add links to parts websites

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I thought about that but it really isn't that hard for people to google most of this stuff.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by import racer

So how much work to make h22 ones fit a20.Or would the obx ones be better.

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H22 and eclipse headers are only for the JDM B20A.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 88lxi-shortram

correction to that. to make a 4th gen test pipe fit you must cut the exhuat pipe behind the cat and reweld it. the flanges are the same but they are positioned different

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I'll look into that or can anyone else confirm that?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rjudgey

You also missed out the best clutch manufacturer Clutch net they also do ally flywheels too.

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Thanks, I knew I forgot one!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tdurr

I like this.

Btw as far as the obd1 jumper harness goes, any obd0 to obd1 mpfi harness will work.

Ill see if i have anything to add later.

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Yeah, I learned that after I made the list.


Thanks for all the positive replies and keep them coming, I'll try and see if I can find more part to add to the list!

ill post pics.... i think i had to rotate the rear flange about 3 inches to get it to line up

^^ please do.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 88lxi-shortram

correction to that. to make a 4th gen test pipe fit you must cut the exhuat pipe behind the cat and reweld it. the flanges are the same but they are positioned different

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I don't remember cutting anything, or welding anything. But it's also been almost 8 years since I did it...

^^ yeah, it looks like they are offset by about 90 degrees.

http://imageshack.us/photo/photo/138...302202058.jpg/

^^ shifter bushing kit?

EDIT: never mind I found it. Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by obdriver6

^^ yeah, it looks like they are offset by about 90 degrees.

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Well shit. Maybe it was a different car??? Can't remember.. BUT I do know for a fact that I used a cheap test pipe that bolted up with no problems :dunno:

^^ Maybe somebody made test pipe for our cars back then.
For the info, I went to magnaflow. You can see that the 1st flange looks the same but its off by 90 degrees.
86-89 accord
http://www.magnaflow.com/02catalytic...irectfit=22623
90-93 accord
http://www.magnaflow.com/02catalytic...irectfit=22624

Bump for the newbs! lol

mods please sticky this

Quote:

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Originally Posted by honda crew

What about headers from a 4th or 5th gen accord? I found a set of 4-2-1 Dc headers that the guy says will fit on a 1994-1997 accord. will they fit on my A20A1?

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The closest you'll get are

F22B1
F22B2
F22B6
Engine : 2.2l , 2156cc
1994 - 1997 Accord
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F23A1
F23A4
F23A5
Engine : 2.3l , 2254cc
1998 - 2002 Accord

Possibly the 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

Commonly referred to "Close Port" or "0-00-0" on E-bay

But the work involves a lot of cutting, the flange should be cut off and replaced with an A20 flange with a decent amount of meat around the ports and the outer primaries need to be bent closer to the center, then the oval on each primary needs to be Squished the other way or cut, rotated 90°, and re welded to match the A20's vertical oval ports (Or filled in the case of Turbo Manifolds). The Secondaries are easier to be cut and bent to add the required 15° tilt.

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost....10&postcount=1


Then you need to match it to the rest of your exhaust system.

In any case the primaries are a fair bit larger, so you're probably better off with an OBX or Pacesetter unless you have the Intake and head-work to match.

While I would have ran the header, I simply wanted to see what was involved in modifying it in case the question came up, but I had my own 4-1 for daily usage.



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I also see Hedman Chikara Headers for the Prelude

Quote:

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Originally Posted by A20A1

I also see Hedman Chikara Headers for the Prelude

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For the A20?

Good info thread, saves lots of questions, just try ti link parts to the web shops.
Anyway I pinned it to the top.

I'm going to quote myself from my fuel pump project,in case anyone needs a better fuel pump for a multi carb project etc. These pumps listed are the correct range for most webber as well as a lot of other carbs that work on this car

Quote:

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I was going to add that if you want to change a carb to an underbody pump, I've only found two series of pumps that are in the correct pressure range, and can dry lift fuel out of the tank. one is the facet gold series pumps like I used, the main issue of why I changed the pump, they seem to have stopped making the bosch in tank pump and the only replacements available have been complete junk. After almost seven fuel pump failures, I had had enough of the junk,and I went to an under body style pump. The issue seems to be,the bosch pumps had metal impeller blades, and most replacements have plastic blades, the plastic blades simply disintegrate, I'm assuming the problem has gotten worse with the new blended fuels in the past few years. Above all costs avoid the carter replacment, it seems that it's bigger then the others, and it seems to push the pump sock up against the baffle,when this happens the pump starves for fuel, and fails. I also had the pressure relief valve come apart on one and dump pieces in the tank. It was a lot of fun getting them back

http://www.facet-purolator.com/gold-flo.php

the other is the FR series of pumps from Walbro,they make a series that have the correct pressure range and can also dry lift fuel.

I went through the specs of literally hundreds of pumps over the last several years, and It pretty much came down to two pumps. Low pressure carb pumps just aren't popular anymore.

http://autoperformanceengineering.co.../fr_pumps.html

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tomisimo

Good info thread, saves lots of questions, just try ti link parts to the web shops.
Anyway I pinned it to the top.

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Thanks for the sticky and I'll try to provide a link to all the parts

my 87 accord is fuel injected a20a3 everything i see is speaking on a Carb setup so whats some things you guys suggest to do i already have a intake lol and looking for some cheap dc 421 headers but i can not find strut bars

Did you even read the first post??? SEARCH!!!!! More then half this list is for fi car's. And your not gonna find anything new for them everything is discontinued.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by obd0driver

Did you even read the first post??? SEARCH!!!!! More then half this list is for fi car's. And your not gonna find anything new for them everything is discontinued.

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That's not true,well suspensions maybe yeas but you can be creative and put together good stuff.
there are a number of build projects here now that are aquiring new parts to run thier obd 1&2 converted cars. New cams, cam gears are available, pistons, hell alot of stuffbut yes suspension & brakes you have to do your research, there are literaly dozrns of ways to do them but I advise watching the trading post here!

What cam gears are you talking about because bisimoto has stopped making them.

there are golden eagle ones floating around from the group buy, I have one ready to go on mine

Updated the thread with some new info and removed most of the links since they were not working anymore. I'll say it again, this is only for performance parts or parts that aid/add to those performance parts. I left out the suspension and brakes cause those don't belong here. Also, this is just a list and nothing else, no cons or pros and it is your job to search out how each will affect your car or how to mod the parts in the "other" sections. Lastly, if you know of a part that isn't listed here or if you see an error please let me know through PM or here.

has anyone included the S&S header? I know they closed up, but there may be a few floating around out there, I know of one member who had a second one. It's the 4-1 full tube header for those who have never seen one.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lostforawhile

has anyone included the S&S header? I know they closed up, but there may be a few floating around out there, I know of one member who had a second one. It's the 4-1 full tube header for those who have never seen one.

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Its in the list as discontinued

update please. Also you can add victor over at squad to the list
https://www.3geez.com/forum/restorati...ml#post1167347

Good info, even for a newb. :thumbup:

So am I hearing that b series piston will fit in a a20a1? Does anyone know if b20a5 will bolt to my transmission in place of the a20a1? Car is used on 1/3rd mile paved circle track.

no.

And no

Thank you.

Which motor would be best to build for race car? a20a1 or b20a5? Either way it will be carbureted.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by car54

Which motor would be best to build for race car? a20a1 or b20a5? Either way it will be carbureted.

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This isn't the place for this. Please start you own post and or search around.

Sorry about that.

In the drivetrain section, I noticed you did not mention anything about transmission upgrades/mods; gears, bearings, synchros, seals, etc. I am having trouble finding information about these things. Most people seem to recommend a gearbox swap, but they don't seem focused on component upgrades. Does this mean they don't exist? Does it mean stock components can already handle racing tolerances?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by alljacksrides

In the drivetrain section, I noticed you did not mention anything about transmission upgrades/mods; gears, bearings, synchros, seals, etc. I am having trouble finding information about these things. Most people seem to recommend a gearbox swap, but they don't seem focused on component upgrades. Does this mean they don't exist? Does it mean stock components can already handle racing tolerances?

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There isn't anything. Stock is what you get and those items are becoming harder to find. I've been looking in to a A2B adapter plate that was made it the past. Last known person with was Johnny O. He told me he sold it a long time ago and isn't sure who ended up with it. I did get some contact info for someone how may have made but haven't gotten a email back.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

ARP Rod bolts part number 208 - 6001

Just want to post these somewhere
Action Clutch aluminum flywheel
Action Clutch kits
Competition Clutch Gravity kit (stage 1) part #8008-2400
ACT clutch carries a small variety of clutch disks still

bisimoto stopped making all cam gears. Are there ANY others that would work for our cars?

They probably didnt stop making them. They make runs of them occasionally.
But no. You always have the option of degreeing your cam and maybe you will find you can move a tooth, if you want to move a few degrees then just take it to a machine shop and tell them to machine a new keyway in they pulley x many degrees off center.
If you thought you could tune your cam off trial and error then you really didn't need one in the first place, especially not if you have the stock cam. You really need to know what you are doing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rickrick

bisimoto stopped making all cam gears. Are there ANY others that would work for our cars?

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The answer is bisimoto never made them in the first place but they did stop branding them. However, this company in the link is still making them you can them in the link.


https://m.facebook.com/groups/3geez/...ibextid=Nif5oz

With that being said and to repeat what the last person said it has been found that even with a tune adjusting the cam gear doesn't really help. outside of TDC when you're doing the timing belt so unless your lazy it's just a showpiece. The was proven on a dyno with a n/a build an adjustment out of tcd + or - resulted in the power loss. This would be different for a boosted car but has yet to be tested.

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I think it is a valuable tuning device, but results will vary and it depends a lot on your head and cam. There are other ways of changing the timing like I described

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ShiRen

I think it is a valuable tuning device, but results will vary and it depends a lot on your head and cam. There are other ways of changing the timing like I described

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If you mill the head on OHC I think its a must have...but thats my opinion.

Even then, no. Just degree the cam, you can move it a tooth or get a shop to put a new keyway in the pulley

Either way, you need to degree the cam if you're trying to get the most performance out of it

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord

If you mill the head on OHC I think its a must have...but thats my opinion.

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Yeah I thought so too the brodie did it with his and when rich tune made adjustments to the cam gear in either direction they found it lost power but when it was TDC the gains showed from the tune they were working on. He's was a milled head n/a with all the bolts on as well. The only thing we haven't seen was a boosted application.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ShiRen

Even then, no. Just degree the cam, you can move it a tooth or get a shop to put a new keyway in the pulley

Either way, you need to degree the cam if you're trying to get the most performance out of it

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Agreed just slapping parts in there with put specing them is always a no no.

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