A20A3 Stroker / Rotating Assembly / What's Possible?!?! Need Help!!!

I have a 1989 Honda Accord LX-i Sedan that I purchased somewhere in the middle of April for $500.
It has the original #'s Matching A20A3 SOHC NON-VTEC, as well as the original E2R5 5-Speed Manual Transmission.
I don't wanna swap this Engine. I don't wanna just toss this Engine & Transmission to the side like it's nothing.

Ultimately, one of my main, major goals was to get the Block Bored Over to its "MAX" Cubic Inches it can be Bored Over to, as well as getting it Stroked, to its "MAX" Liters it can be Stroked to, with a Custom Made, From Scratch, Fully Forged Rotating Assembly, with a Custom Made "FROM SCRATCH" 4340 Billet Steel Stroker Crank, Custom Made "FROM SCRATCH" Billet Aluminum, Titanium or Magnesium I-Beam Connecting Rods, as well as a Custom set of Custom Made "FROM SCRATCH" Billet Aluminum, Titanium, or Magnesium, "DOMED" Pistons, for "MAX" Compression utilizing the "STRONGEST, LIGHTEST" material that can be used for these components...

I also wanted to get the Cylinder Head fully CNC Machined, with the most material that can possibly be removed from the Intake & Exhaust Ports & Combustion Chambers, the "MOST" material that can be removed as well as an Extremely Large, Extremely Aggressive Custom Made "FROM SCRATCH" Camshaft, like from BISIMOTO or someone, with all Custom Made Valves, Valve Springs, Retainers, Valve Seals & Guides & things of that nature...

I'm very well aware of needing to Convert from OBD0 to OBD1 or OBD2 even as well as utilizing some kind of Stand Alone Engine Management Unit either from AEM, or Megasquirt, Motec, Hondata/Phearable, as well as getting a Wiring Harness from Ry-Wire or Hondata/Phearable.

I also wanna try some B-Series ITB's preferably from OBX or something of that nature, as well as converting over from Distributor to Coil Over Plug...

Wtf kinda bot is this :inout:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MaxedOutNA

I have a 1989 Honda Accord LX-i Sedan that I purchased somewhere in the middle of April for $500.
It has the original #'s Matching A20A3 SOHC NON-VTEC, as well as the original E2R5 5-Speed Manual Transmission.
I don't wanna swap this Engine. I don't wanna just toss this Engine & Transmission to the side like it's nothing.

Ultimately, one of my main, major goals was to get the Block Bored Over to its "MAX" Cubic Inches it can be Bored Over to, as well as getting it Stroked, to its "MAX" Liters it can be Stroked to, with a Custom Made, From Scratch, Fully Forged Rotating Assembly, with a Custom Made "FROM SCRATCH" 4340 Billet Steel Stroker Crank, Custom Made "FROM SCRATCH" Billet Aluminum, Titanium or Magnesium I-Beam Connecting Rods, as well as a Custom set of Custom Made "FROM SCRATCH" Billet Aluminum, Titanium, or Magnesium, "DOMED" Pistons, for "MAX" Compression utilizing the "STRONGEST, LIGHTEST" material that can be used for these components...

I also wanted to get the Cylinder Head fully CNC Machined, with the most material that can possibly be removed from the Intake & Exhaust Ports & Combustion Chambers, the "MOST" material that can be removed as well as an Extremely Large, Extremely Aggressive Custom Made "FROM SCRATCH" Camshaft, like from BISIMOTO or someone, with all Custom Made Valves, Valve Springs, Retainers, Valve Seals & Guides & things of that nature...

I'm very well aware of needing to Convert from OBD0 to OBD1 or OBD2 even as well as utilizing some kind of Stand Alone Engine Management Unit either from AEM, or Megasquirt, Motec, Hondata/Phearable, as well as getting a Wiring Harness from Ry-Wire or Hondata/Phearable.

I also wanna try some B-Series ITB's preferably from OBX or something of that nature, as well as converting over from Distributor to Coil Over Plug...

---

Welcome glad you finally made it. All the info is here

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by night

Wtf kinda bot is this :inout:

---

He's from Honda tech

Wasnt there a kit years ago to stroke the a20 to like a 2.3 or something? I remember reading about it a long time ago on Preludepower...

Your best bet is to go on Preludepower and look up Rjudgey's build. He had done some extensive work to his engine including oversized valves, things like that.

I think it was a stroker kit for like the B20A5 or something. Nobody ever tried it in an A20... Not sure there was ever anything made specifically for an A20... I feel like it was a Brian Crower crank of some kind...

Ah that's right. It was a Paeco kit you could buy back in the day for the A20. I remember they sold like 4 levels of A20 engine. They did sell a 2.4 liter engine too. It was big $$$, even now thier site lists $8600 for a 300hp-ish 2 liter Honda engine. Not sure if the A20 really falls into that or not, but for the right price, I'm sure they'll build anything.

https://www.3geez.com/forum/restorat...hlight=stroker

Also found this thread on PreludePower, showing the levels that Paeco sold for the A20:

Stage One (146 hp)
Stage SRE (158 hp)
Stage Two (176 hp)
Stage Three (202 hp)
Stage Four (242 hp)

https://www.preludepower.com/forums/...d.php?t=179511

Paeco is still around, and they can stroke any crankshaft according to their site. My eyes hurt after reading it...

Paeco Stroker Kit

Ouch, that website is so bad...where are my sunglasses...

Yea, I had been doing some searching on here, and came across a couple Threads that lead me to the Paeco site. That's exactly what I was looking for. Couldn't even find anyone else who was willing to help me.
But there's still other things that I need help understanding, like Converting over to Coil Over Plug, I was curious to know, Could I use MSD LSX COP, or even MSD HVC II Race Coils as Individual Coil Over Plugs, for the most Spark I can possibly get??? Whatever I have to do to make em work.
I'm also well aware that I will have to Convert over from OBD0 to an OBD1 or OBD2 or OBD2.5, utilizing some kind of Stand Alone Engine Management Unit, either from AEM, or a Hondata/Phearable ECU, or Megasquirt or MOTEC ECU, as well as utilizing some kind of Tune from Neptune or Crome, and getting all the information from there, as far as, getting my Air/Fuel Ratios Tuned, as well as Spark and Ignition Timing and Tuning, and just Tuning for the most HP/TQ I can get out of a bored & Stroked, Ported Head & Cammed A20A3.
I was also looking @ OBX B-Series ITBs as well, Ported to match and everything for maximum induction.
What do you guys think?
Is there anything someone would like to suggest as far as everything I just typed up above???

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MaxedOutNA

Yea, I had been doing some searching on here, and came across a couple Threads that lead me to the Paeco site. That's exactly what I was looking for. Couldn't even find anyone else who was willing to help me.
But there's still other things that I need help understanding, like Converting over to Coil Over Plug, I was curious to know, Could I use MSD LSX COP, or even MSD HVC II Race Coils as Individual Coil Over Plugs, for the most Spark I can possibly get??? Whatever I have to do to make em work.
I'm also well aware that I will have to Convert over from OBD0 to an OBD1 or OBD2 or OBD2.5, utilizing some kind of Stand Alone Engine Management Unit, either from AEM, or a Hondata/Phearable ECU, or Megasquirt or MOTEC ECU, as well as utilizing some kind of Tune from Neptune or Crome, and getting all the information from there, as far as, getting my Air/Fuel Ratios Tuned, as well as Spark and Ignition Timing and Tuning, and just Tuning for the most HP/TQ I can get out of a bored & Stroked, Ported Head & Cammed A20A3.
I was also looking @ OBX B-Series ITBs as well, Ported to match and everything for maximum induction.
What do you guys think?
Is there anything someone would like to suggest as far as everything I just typed up above???

---

Convert to OBD1 and go with Honda rulezAttachment 9006 coil on plug controller or the coil on plug Mini with 4 ls2 coils. I use a po6 ECU with demon 2 board with Neptune RTP. The b16a individual throttle bodies would be pretty cool

Why not try like a 66mm Skunk2 TB, and a Skunk2 Pro Series B-Series IM, and an OBX 4-1 Header man??? That'd be an increase in Power & Torque for sure...:rockon:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MaxedOutNA

Why not try like a 66mm Skunk2 TB, and a Skunk2 Pro Series B-Series IM, and an OBX 4-1 Header man??? That'd be an increase in Power & Torque for sure...:rockon:

---

I'm already using a b16a (aebs) Advanced engine breathing system intake manifold with 68mm throttle body. I haven't put a header on it yet because I have a log turbo manifold for it

For what it sounds like you're going to spend on this engine, you could put one hell of a B-series in. Why do you want an A so bad? Not hatin'. Just curious.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz

For what it sounds like you're going to spend on this engine, you could put one hell of a B-series in. Why do you want an A so bad? Not hatin'. Just curious.

---

It's the Original #'s Matching Engine & Trans. I wanna keep it for that purpose alone, AND, the fact that it's an 89, the very last year for this particular Model, the top of the line, top tier trim level you could get for this year, for this model, and still has the original #'s matching A20A3 Engine, and E2R5 5-Speed Manual Trans.

But check this out though; FOR NOW, I just wanna get the car running and driving, cause it''s been sitting longer than I wanted it to sit. I wanna drive this car, and just wanna enjoy this car with the original drivetrain in it, and just enjoy it, and romp on it, and trash on it, and just have fun with this car going back & forth to work, or around town on a Friday evening or whatever...

I want to absolutely try the OBX B-Series ITB's for this car. Now, I know you can make any Stock B-Series, or any Aftermarket B-Series Intake Manifold work on an A20, but you have to drill an extra hole in the Cylinder Head if I'm not mistaken? so in that case, I should be able to do the same thing with an ITB Set-up with-out any major issues besides drilling a Hole in the Cylinder Head, and Converting from OBD0 to OBD1, YES, I am very well aware of that...

I'm wanting to know, besides having to convert from OBD0 to OBD1 or OBD2 with a Chipped ECU from Phearable, some kind of Hondata Chipped ECU, what else would I possibly need to make the OBX B-Series ITBs work? This will be on a stock motor, so, I'm not worried about what the ITB's are made for, or how I would benefit with a built motor with a ported head, big cam, Stroker and all that. I don't care about that, I wanna know, what do I have to do to make them work, PERIOD. No B.S. cookie cutter answers. I'm dead series here. I need help. Help me. That's why I came here...

Also am wondering about Coil Over Plug Conversion; Is it possible that I could use MSD HVC II Coils as Individual Coil Over Plugs? Or MSD LSX LS2/LS7 Coil Over Plugs as Individual Coil Over Plugs?

ALSO; the Mezire Electric Water Pump for the B-Series Engines; Is it any possible way that that "COULD" fit and work on an A20A3, or no?

Any answers and or help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

Not all B series intake manifolds fit it's got to be B16A. And the holes get drilled in the flange of the intake manifold. You also need fuel lines fuel rail fuel pressure regulator from the b-series. And you're going to have to be OBD1 or megasquirt to do any kind of coil near plug conversion. Be sure to check
out the Custom Fabrication and how to section

Don't let me ruin your fun, but "numbers matching" usually means that no modification of any kind has been done to the car. Some guys will spend a fortune for a "numbers matching" car, but only if it's exactly as it rolled off the factory line.

Got to looking, mine was built 5/89... that's got to be one of the very last ones built. They were probably either starting or about to start building the 90 models at that point.

Long term, Be prepared to spend money, lots of it .
Dont have a budget and dont be surprised if you have to make stuff yourself .
I really wanted to keep the b20a in my accord , but have something really special .
As a result my engine would cost somewhere north of 10k NZD to replace , thats just internals, machining and assembly.
If yuo are dead set keen on a stroker , if you cant find a stroker crank , you may find someone who will build the journals up and do an offset grind to get an mm or so.
To get the best out of itbs , you will need big cam, compression , head work , otherwise you wont gain stuff all , and they are alot harder to tune .
I dont know if a chipped ecu would do it, probably require standalone ecu. Map sensors dont really work well with itbs , you go from lots of vacuum to no vacuum by about 1/3 throttle.
So you end up having to do alpha n ( tps based) tuning for everything but cruise where you can go speed density (map).
drive it standard while you accumulate the bits to build the N/A monster .
If you insist on keeping it numbers matching , buy a spare a20 to turn into the N/A monster so you still have the original