{??} 1983 Honda Accord CVCC (48 State) Drive plate Timing marks and Distributor {??}

How do I line up the EK1 cylinder 1 to top dead center. I have removed the Hitatchi disdtributor and began to spin the motor counterclockwise till i see the marking on the drive plate appear. According to this manual it state that i should line up the pointer with the red line, along with the distributor dot on the shaft line up with the embossed mark at below the base of the rotor assembly. Can anyone confirm the method to getting it back to to running shape. all other aspects of the motor are cool. Thanks! Let me know if i can provide any more information!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/av...w=w667-h889-no HERE IS A PICTURE OF WHAT MARKINGS I HAVE OBSERVED ON THE DRIVE PLATE.

T is the TDC
Red is timing mark
6 is the advance mark

So then i will be lining it up with the red mark?

When installing the distributor, you're gonna want to use the T mark. But you wanna make sure the cam is at TDC as well, or the distributor could go in 180 degrees off. So just make sure the T is lined up, and the cam pulley is "UP" and you'll be good to go.

ok gimmie a sec to let this soak in...

ok gimmie a sec to let this soak in...


How do i verify if the cam is up?
I verify the distibutor by lining up the dimple on the distributor rotor and the embossed line at the top of the distributor. Or is it the dimple with the arrow just above the dimple on the shaft?

You should see this on the camshaft pulley

http://i872.photobucket.com/albums/a...-Accord-DX.png

What about the distributor marks though? I have not had the timing belt removed. Although I did crank the motor while the distributor was out. Your info is helpful haz a appreciate and see how I can apply this to my problem but there is still the factor of the distributor being out of alignment. How many degrees does the distributor need advanced?

Make sure both flywheel and cam pulley lines up with TDC mark, install the dizzy with it pointed to the #1 or whatever dimple/mark you have then check the advance with the red mark using a timing light. It's very easy to skip a gear or two while installing the dizzy so double check the rotor is pointing to the #1 properly

I have lined up all the points as you listed haz and its just on the dizzy there are two sets of lines and im not sure which one to use. There is a dimple and and arrow or a dimple and a line. In the mean time of my utter confusion, i sat down and read alittle about ingnotion coils. I decided to test the resistance in the primary and secondary windings but taking a DVOM and switching it to resistance and reading the output. Primary = .5-2 ohms
Secondary = 10-11k ohm

With the slightest fluctuations you are to replace the ignintion coil. Now this ignintion coil is only 2 years old and is NGK. I dont know but my numbers were
Primary = 4ohm
Secondary = Infinity---

My spark was orange from the get go which tells me that the spark was bad as it is. Any input?

i dont have a timing light but see how it might be a good invest when getting into this rubbage.

Oh man mine didn't even have a mark so idk what to follow in your case. Silly aftermarket caps but I'll just line it up to the mark sitting exactly on the #1. I don't even remember which one is the #1 now perhaps some other members could chime in.

Your resistance sounds a little high. iirc it should be around 1 ohms something for primary and some thousands of ohms for the secondary.

I never used a timing light to set mine. I just have the dizzy sitting in the middle and advance it till it pings under acceleration. Gonna take a while to get the sweet spot though but its doable.

anyone got some alldata access??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hazwan

Oh man mine didn't even have a mark so idk what to follow in your case. Silly aftermarket caps but I'll numbers thatne it up to the mark sitting exactly on the #1. I don't even remember which one is the #1 now perhaps some other members could chime in.

Your resistance sounds a little high. iirc it should be around 1 ohms something for primary and some thousands of ohms for the secondary.

I never used a timing light to set mine. I just have the dizzy sitting in the middle and advance it till it pings under acceleration. Gonna take a while to get the sweet spot though but its doable.

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update: A knowledgeable guy at Napa auto parts states my Coil is good and I could confirm with his explanation and resistance numbers that came up.

The timing marks are where I feel I am getting messed up at. The distributor has swverqll marks and so does the torque converter driveplate. Im with you had on the TDC but I still can't get a fire.or atleast running. Totally confused over here !! :)

What i truly want to know is what mark on the drive plate (located on the torque converter) do i need to set my point to. I have the TDC for the Camshaft (all valves closed?) by lining up the two hash marks in the camgear with the deck of the block towards the rear and from the front end it should line up with an arrow. I GOT THIS.
I have removed the timing belt today after suspecting that the belt had jumped a tooth after accidently cranking the engine over with a socket and ratchet still on the crankshaft pully nut as it got caught behind the brake caliper and sheared the extension tip! So that why i have the timing belt off to adjust?

What does every line mean on the drive plate? Is the "T" True TDC and the red mark is the motor specific recommeded TDC?

You're confusing yourself haha. T on the drive plate is the TDC I have no idea about the other white mark and the rest but I do know that the red is supposed to line up AFTER the engine is running and the distributor being advanced.

I made a mistake by aligning the red mark on the drive plate with the TDC mark on the camshaft on my car and it did run except I can never get it timed properly

are thes interference motors? The EK1?

From my gathered info.... I believe I am going to set the cam gear lines straight across the deck the from line on the can lines up with an actual arrow. Then turn the motor by hand to the red line which is 16 degrees BTDC. Allowance is 2 degrees.plus or minus. I then am going to align the distributor with the dimple with the arrow to set it to exactly firing on cylinder 1. Does all this sound right?

I am replacing the timing belt as i do this procedure. So i am basically at square 1. By the way which is very difficult to replace a timimg belt with out dropping the motor from some mounts im assuming because i cant see shit even with the A/C removed.

Steps Im gonna take here...

1.) Rotate crankshaft till alignment with the red mark on the drive plate and pointer is good.
2.) loosen slack in belt and remove by loosening adjuster bolt on tensioner and turn camshaft to alignment with its reference points on the cylinder head, if necessary.(Which will be for me...). 1 tooth can make a difference. Not sure about these cars tho ??
3.) slip belt back on to camshaft clockwise( opposite of the rotation of the motor) over the cam gear.
4.) Rotate motor 1 full rotation to ensure the belt has not jumped a tooth and confirm by viewing the driveplate red mark is still aligned with the pointer as the camshaft gear is aligned with the cylinder head alignment marks.
5.) From the red mark (16 degree BTDC) you will remove distributor and and rotate the shaft till the dimple in the shaft lines up with the embossed mark under the base of the distributor.
6.) This will ensure that Cylinder 1 spark plug 1 is ready to fire next and will fire 16 degrees BTDC)
7-89) tweak everything to get car running right..... becasue i might just have messed something up l


Can anyone confirm this?

I have never worked on an older car and don't know we're to start, do I need to take off the AC so I can get in to the shaft?