LOL! in the future it would be cool if someone (maybe me) put together a bolt in conversion kit for the DCOEs
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LOL! in the future it would be cool if someone (maybe me) put together a bolt in conversion kit for the DCOEs
doesnt he have dcoes?
i think the 32/36 carb how to would be good. i am going to purchase a weber 32/36 DGEV soon and i guess i could make a how to.
Travis
nope
Travis
yea, I always wondered why everyone would always get all hung up over the damn TV cable, it's totally seperate.
Got a pic of that new throttle?
Okay, hi guys, so here's the story.
For the last, oh, I don't know how long, probably ever since I got it, my car has been doing the following - when I'm on the freeway and I let off the pedal just to get it to maintain its speed (at say around 65mph), there is a vibration in the engine. Pretty sure the problem is not drivetrain related, since the vibration isn't "even", but somewhat irregular. The car idles rough sometimes, too.
Having brought it to a mechanic, I was told that a venturi was "lose", and vibrating - turbulating the air- causing my problem. Solution - A carburator overhaul - $385, I believe.
Having looked up the prices on weber carbs, I got to thinking - why overhaul a shitty part, when I can swap it out for a good one?
This is pretty much a daily driver - having this car not run is quite an inconvenience. If I am going to do this, I'll get the kit from www.carbs.net (http://www.carbs.net/Weber/Dataresul...8&Model=ACCORD) - roughly the same price as the overhaul will cost me. I'm not trying to get performance gains here (altho if they come it'll be nice), just to get a well-performing dependable car.
The car is an '86 Accord, with an auto tranny.
So, here are the actual questions:
1) Realistically, how long will this job take me? Can I do it in a weekend? Will haing an auto make things difficult?
2) How much engine disassembling will I have to do?
3) Can I slap it in and drive it, or will I have to spend a week tuning it?
4) Will I pass smog check with this? Not sure if an '86 needs it.. never had it done on that car, actually. I aught to check California DMV laws.
Well, that's about it - hope you guys can help!
Thanks,
2Fast
Please, show!
Anger... at mechanic... rising...
2Fast
Thanks a bunch for your help, Mike! I'll try to do this this weekend, hopefully won't get into too much trouble :) {EDIT} Took out the stupid question about which screw the venturi are held on with. I sees them :) {EDIT}
A question tho - why can't I adjust/tighten those wit the top-hat still on?
Thanks!
2Fast
NOPI has the same kit for $354.49, so tell the Carbs.net people and see if they make good on their lowest-price guarantee. :D
Dammit! So the problems didn't make me wait long... in the following picture, the black arrow points to the screw I have taken out, the red arrow to the screw that I can't take out because it's blocked by the throttle cable support arm marked with the blue arrow. The thingie marked with the yellow arrow blocks the actual screw I need to get to to adjust, and it is held on by the red/black arrow screws. Gah!!! Any suggestions? I really don't want to remove the blue arrow support arm and all the shit hanging off of it... but might have to.
http://www.calpoly.edu/~ygisin/images/carb001.jpg
Thanks a lot!
2Fast
P.S. Dropped a metal socket head into the engine. it didn't come out on the bottom even after a lot of shaking. Hopefully it won't lead to bad bad things.
ROFL... thanks, Mike...
okay, so here's the sitrep... I went to the store, both the 8mm and the 5/16ths wrenches look lose on that screw. Only in the store did I realize that it had flat sides - I took the first one with the philips... so about to go get... a small wrench... it's very tight area, a box-head won't fit on top of the bolt and an 8mm open-jaw keeps rounding off the sides of the bolt...
the thing I dropped in the engine isn't in the carb, somewhere in the area of the intake manifold.. so hopefully it won't make its way to the belts.. tried shaking the car it didn't fall out, so... not much I can do.
Hopefully I won't need to access the second venturi screw.. the one that's open is the one that I can shake.. and feel it shaking... maybe I aught to take the top off and see if the other venturi also vibrates... by the way, the vibraition on the one I can see is very very low... like, I can barely push it side to side, but yeah, there is a little bit of play.... as I understand that's the primary venturi, so likely that's the one that works when the engine is at @3k rpm just trying to maintain cruise speed..
anyways, off to the store to try to find a good wrench for this screw.
Thanks for the help!
2Fast
P.S. Throttle cable/bracked seem like a bitch to remove... there are 2 ?vacuum valves? with rods coming out of them on the 2 sides of the bracket.. nontheless will try and see if I can make that thing move...
Update: Got a wrench that fit, unscrewed the bolt, moved the piston thingie aside, tightened the bolt that holds the venturi ~1/5 of a turn so that now I can't jiggle it, getting ready to put back together... Hopefully the problem was in this venturi and not in the second one and not somewhere else altogether :)
Will update once take it for a drive.
Thanks!
2Fast
Update: The vibration is still there... it only appears at high speeds though... do you think it might be the second venturi?
Thanks,
2Fast
ok...
this is mainly for the Weber gods out there.
i need only straight answers here.
1. when my weber arrives, do i just remove all the vacuum lines?
2. i know u have to put a line to the brakes and to the distributer, but do these need constant vacuum?
3. i ordered a nceramic header too so i wont have to worry bout those pipes...
what do i do with the holes in the intake after i remove those thangs?
Thanx
Travis
refreshed?
no one on?
damn!
Travis
come on!!!
Travis
you take out all the smog and vacuum crap, you can run a line to the EGR if it has an EGR port on the weber.
run a hose from the manifold (direct constant feed) to each of the distributor advance nipples for lots of advance :super:
leave the brake booster one on, it's the fat black one on the rear of the manifold.
everything else can be plugged. You may need to run a vacuum line for the carb's power valve, I don't know if it needs one or if it uses the base of the carb to get the signal.
Plug every unused port on the manifold (it's easier if you take off all those metal tubes and plug the base, leave a set if you want for the distributer and whatever else you want to hook up)
I will reiterate what POS Carb said.
1. Yes. All of them except for the Brake booster and vacuum advance from the distributor (Don't forget the fuel line). You may have to label the electric choke wire if you are going to be reusing it.
2. Just leave the brake booster line connected to the manifold. You may have to buy a vacuum line to run from the distributor to the carburetor, thought.
3. Go to the auto parts store and stock up on vacuum caps, of various sizes.
Good luck on your project, and please ask any questions during the install.
OK here is the Venturi size for the Keihin vs the weber 32/36
KEIHIN:
-PRIMARY BARREL ~22.225mm
-SECONDARY BARREL ~31.75mm
WEBER:
-PRIMARY BARREL 32mm
-SECONDARY BARREL 36mm
Now tell me which carb sucks more... :D
Sorry? I didn't drill the holes in the electric choke to get to the second venturi... the mechanic seemed to indicate that it was the first one (the exposed one) that was the problem, and since it was the one I could get to easily, I only adjusted that one.
So yeah :)
I guess all I'm asking is if you think that the "vibrating venturi" hypothesis is worth testing on the second ventrui - which I've not seen yet... I could take the carb apart (much faster now since I know how to do it) again and take the top off and try & shake the second venturi, see if I even need to break thru the electric choke to get to the bolt for it.
Cool. Well, thanks for your help again! At least now I know way more about carbs than before and have possibly saved ~400 bucks.. Thanks!
2Fast
Man, I'm not too experienced with carb stuff, but I would think that your venturi would have to be really loose to make the engine vibrate.
Have you checked your engine mounts, including the damper arm on the back of the engine? I've worked on cars that get nasty shakes from bad engine mounts. A friend of mine had a volvo and the tranny was too close to the body of the car, making the thing vibrate nasty sometimes. I've never seen something this bad on a 3G, but if you have a collapsed mount then it could certainly do it.
I would check that stuff.
How rough is your idle? Does it miss? does it stutter?
Someone should correct me if I'm wrong, but I would guess that even if the venturi was a little loose, it wouldn't make things shake. I think that if the car is warmed up, the choke is open, and you're getting the right amount of gas & don't have a blocked air filter then air coming through the venturi and down the carb barrels would vaporize your fuel enough to get vapor coming into your engine.
I guess if your venturi was really screwy then gas wouldn't vaporize right and you would sometimes get a miss or part-miss that would make combustion on some cylinders uneven, giving you the shakes. But I've never seen this happening to the point where it caused a shake.
Has anyone ever seen this happen?
I would check my timing and make sure I didn't have a vacuum leak somewhere if I was you. I'd check my advance to make sure that it works evenly. I'd also check my plugs, wire set, and then maybe my coil if I really thought that it could be giving weak spark.
But if I had to guess, I would say probably vacuum leak, bad plugs or wires, or screwy timing is what I'd go after first.
Will check that out. The venturis seem like a no-go, they were barely lose, and now they're not at all. I think I'll switch the plugs asap and go on to bigger stuff later...
engine mounts, timing belt were changed quite recently, wires about a year ago.
plugs have been on for about 1.5 years, so time to change those, I think. And to look at how they look.
2Fast
The Subject says it all...
Are you talking about the Weber 32/36, if so it will be $369 for the full conversion. And if you do it yourself labor is free if not I would expect from $150-$250 for labor.
I think I'll just do a weber conversion instead of a B16 swap, I'll prettymuch give it an overhaul, it has 217k on the odometer but it purrs like a kitten. How long do you think the conversion will take?:confused:
I honestly wouldn't know, I'm planing on getting a weber next week. I don't know whether or not I want the 32/36 or the 38. I read a bunch of stuff on both and I can't decide. The site said the 32/36 will need re-jetting with any engine mods and the 38 won't. I don't know what to get anymore. I wish A20A1 was online.
