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Hello all! I have a 1989 Accord LX-i Sedan that currently has no power steering because when I bought the car it had no bolt or adjuster bolt to connect the pump to the bracket. Looking online of course, all parts are discontinued as I assumed. Any suggestions? Or any info on bolts that could potentially work as opposed to OEM spec bolts?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
Jsparkman
Hello all! I have a 1989 Accord LX-i Sedan that currently has no power steering because when I bought the car it had no bolt or adjuster bolt to connect the pump to the bracket. Looking online of course, all parts are discontinued as I assumed. Any suggestions? Or any info on bolts that could potentially work as opposed to OEM spec bolts?
Yeah, you're going to have to experiment. Either pull the bolts off one laid up in a yard or fabricate/Macgyver something up.
(Why does the forum randomly log me out when the page is reloaded?)
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I thought about running wires from the batt , straight to the fuel pump to bypass everything. Then this ECT sensor issue , I thought about running its wires from the sensor straight to the ECU, then I started thinking more and more about just everyway to bypass every system that keeps us from starting our cars or our cars running right because of a relay, or some other overcomplicated circuit full of lockout switches and crap wiring material. Is this a good idea? Lets say we do toggle switches for ignition, fuel and toggle the starter. Like a race car. Good idea?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
fortekosakku
I thought about running wires from the batt , straight to the fuel pump to bypass everything. Then this ECT sensor issue , I thought about running its wires from the sensor straight to the ECU, then I started thinking more and more about just everyway to bypass every system that keeps us from starting our cars or our cars running right because of a relay, or some other overcomplicated circuit full of lockout switches and crap wiring material. Is this a good idea? Lets say we do toggle switches for ignition, fuel and toggle the starter. Like a race car. Good idea?
As far as the fuel pump relay its there for safety in a car accident, so unless just for testing, NEVER just bypass it.
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If the fuel pump is the only one you see being a problem then what about a 12v lead, spliced into the 12v that the switch normally feeds the pump and so i can just force 12v to it in short bursts or short length durations. I get some fuel cut at higher RPMS even though everything is new on the car , I was hearing about more crap getting in the way of the fuel pump signal so , the only thing im not sure about is the fuel pressure regulator is old and its vacuum operated I believe. Forcing 12v to the pump is the same as forcing full PSI on the system right? Is that ever really bad on anything? Im not above only using it to guarantee fuel pump power during starting but if it fixes high rpm fuel cut too, or I notice a power increase , would it hurt the system to have it fully primed on its full psi? And forget about the safety aspect. If I wanted a car for safety , id have bought a volvo. If I get an any accident at all, its probably an instant death, so who cares. Free cremation. Will it hurt the car?
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Voltage at the ignition switch was 12v when the key is on. While cranking though it drops below 10. Hovers between 9.8 and 10.2 while cranking. Even seems to drop the longer it cranks off the battery. Testing the voltage at the fuse when I got the car to run on a cold start, after cleaning my ignition switch contacts(even though its not even 2 yr old), was 11.7 at the 40amp coil fuse while running. That same voltage while cranking hot across the fuse is in millivolts. The voltage at the switch while cranking is below 10. My optima battery is about 4 years old. On their website it says it should last about 4 at most under the texas heat. It still cranks really strong though and never has given me issues.
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I think you seriously mistake what "lock outs" these cars have. If anything at all turns off an output such as ignition or fuel, it's because an input is out of range, the input being what it uses to map it's fuel output.
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1 Attachment(s)
Re: Have a quick question? Ask it here!
Just picked a new exhaust system for my 86 Accord LX big ol fart can unfortunately but I need to do it, my muffler fell off classic the thing rotted out. I got this off a buddy who had a 3rd gen accord which was unfortunately totaled a year ago (moment of silence) however im having a hard time figuring out of this thing is going to fit or not.Attachment 11192
Just wondering if anyone has done something similar to this thing, its about 124" inches from the tip to the flange which i think should fit given the overall length is 179" on the 4 door model
PS, I think I uploaded the picture properly
Don't mind the rc cars on the floor and the mess everywhere I own a datsun its that things fault
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Where can I get the brake light housing for an 88 accord DX coupe
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The 3rd brake light or a taillight?
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Re: Have a quick question? Ask it here!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
HubertTheHonda
Just picked a new exhaust system for my 86 Accord LX big ol fart can unfortunately but I need to do it, my muffler fell off classic the thing rotted out. I got this off a buddy who had a 3rd gen accord which was unfortunately totaled a year ago (moment of silence) however im having a hard time figuring out of this thing is going to fit or not.
Attachment 11192
Just wondering if anyone has done something similar to this thing, its about 124" inches from the tip to the flange which i think should fit given the overall length is 179" on the 4 door model
PS, I think I uploaded the picture properly
Don't mind the rc cars on the floor and the mess everywhere I own a datsun its that things fault
It looks like it has an extra 45 degree bend toward the front half that doesnt need to be there. I would drive the car up on some blocks or two wheels up on a curb and lay it under the car to see if its close.
I would assume some modification would be necessary especially on the down pipe.
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hey all.. Just a quick question. my DX has a similar (same?) engine bay fuse box as an LXI. Would i be able to add power mirrors if i have the switch and both motorized mirrors? are the connectors there? as well as power windows & auto locks connecter... (i know i'll need latch and motor). Just curious if all the harness connectors are on there or if it's a different harness. thanks! also what is the best battery for this guy
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One more thing... Do sedan (4door) foldable seats fit in my (2 door) hatch?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
Brandopatt
hey all.. Just a quick question. my DX has a similar (same?) engine bay fuse box as an LXI. Would i be able to add power mirrors if i have the switch and both motorized mirrors? are the connectors there? as well as power windows & auto locks connecter... (i know i'll need latch and motor). Just curious if all the harness connectors are on there or if it's a different harness. thanks! also what is the best battery for this guy
The wiring harness is different. You would have to find a LX wiring harness and replace both the front and rear wiring harness. It includes most of the the engine bay wiring harness and the rear one to the tail lights. All your interior would need to be removed. Switch out the fuse box. It would be a ton of work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Brandopatt
One more thing... Do sedan (4door) foldable seats fit in my (2 door) hatch?
I am 90% sure they are interchangeable.
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Hey ya'll ive only been recently trying to find another accord since my last one sadly is no longer running and it wont be again, but i've been wanting to try and find and 86-89 accord doesnt matter if its hatchback or sedan I'm just really into the car itself, but i cant seem to find any form of finding them near me, i live down in Miami Florida and for the most part i can only find them 9 hours+ away from me, do you guys have any tips that i could use, maybe some websites that'll do me good in finding one at least half that drive away? thanks
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Any of you fellas have OEM part numbers for high/low tone horns/speedo cable? Horn I bought off RA is a generic one that doesn't plug & play - you're supposed to rewire & jerryrig it in. Speedo cable doesn't fit either on an 86 DX sedan with a H4F4 auto trans - part in question is a PIONEER CA3070.
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I put Hellas on mine and iirc they were plug and play. Are the stock ones not spade connectors?
Which side does not fit for the speedo cable, make sure you don't have the clip on it when you put it in and make sure it goes into it's slot when you stick it in the trans. Idk how it could be wrong, I don't know of any other style speedo cable
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
ShiRen
I put Hellas on mine and iirc they were plug and play. Are the stock ones not spade connectors?
Which side does not fit for the speedo cable, make sure you don't have the clip on it when you put it in and make sure it goes into it's slot when you stick it in the trans. Idk how it could be wrong, I don't know of any other style speedo cable
I bought an FIAMM kit for the horns, speedo cable might be defective. I'll have to check today or tmw.
Can someone recommend me a horn kit and also a radiator (orig one is on the way out) that fits an 86 DX with an auto trans off Rockauto? One has LXI only, one has MT only, what is the most expensive/best quality one that fits an 86 DX AT? Best guess so far is the AGILITY 8010928.
Alright, I think I got everything sorted. Sorry for the newb questions.
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Trying to replace my radiator but I can't seem to disconnect the fans how do I do that
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will an automatic console switch directly to a manual, referring to the hole size for shifter primarily. thanks
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also. does one need to remove rear quarter panels to pull out rear seat. I see the rods it pivots on put looks like more work than I anticipated. 1989 acord lxi coupe
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Will 185-65-15 fit stock 1989 accord?
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Pretty tall. I havent seen anyone run that size tire.