[Video] Brake caliper Seized 1983 Honda Accord

I have been going down on these brakes for a little time now. I replaced the booster and master cylinder and then bled the brakes. I have recently tinkered with the pushrod length on the booster and have tried to get it back to factory distance.
The problem: Brake pedal is inconsistent while applying. Some times stiff and other times normal. Now it is spongy right when I start it up then slowly returns to normal. after replacing these i noticed my calipers was showing asyptoms of seizing up. The rotor on the drivrr side is glazed and really burnt . could this be a p shrod length problemhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMqa...e_gdata_player

I had also only managed to get on a new caliper. Could not get the rotor offdue to a locked seized screw the holds it to the wheel hub. Still doing the same thing not letting it free up.. I adjusted the pushrod a few threads still not much of a difference

The video is set to private, can't watch it. You might consider getting a manual impact driver for the removal of that screw.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Og0wilzMtXY

^^^ What he said.

Use anti-seize when you put it back together, or just leave the screw out completely.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz

^^^ What he said.

Use anti-seize when you put it back together, or just leave the screw out completely.

---

Thank you for the video! Wonderful help around here i cant believe it. Couldn't find one of those nifty tools. So i bought an extraction screw extraction kit...didn't work either. so i Just when man on it and drilled them out. Unfortunately I had no screw to replace the ones I drilled to death. Will this be an issue. I realize you said i could leave them out but, is it safe? I have finished the job! I still need to bleed the brakes...again. Hopefully this will give me some relief!

Definitely safe. If you look at the design of the system, the wheels hold the rotor in place.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W...705_170109.jpghttps://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2...707_144027.jpghttps://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5...707_144036.jpghttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-l...707_144200.jpghttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B...707_144221.jpghttps://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b...707_144233.jpghttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4...707_144301.jpghttps://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-w...707_144348.jpghttps://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_...707_145105.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-L...707_150153.jpghttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...707_151101.jpghttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-x...707_151116.jpghttps://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-K...707_151119.jpghttps://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0...705_164822.jpg

So shiny and fresh! Stops better now?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy

So shiny and fresh! Stops better now?

---

Brake pedal feels a lot better but the driver side is still dragging. I remved thw wheels after a day of driving to work and back. And it looks like the rotor is already looking overhewted. Jacked it up and took the wheels off and put it in drive.. thwn observed the rotors turning the pasenger rotates freely byt not so consistently on the driver. It appears to be doing the same rhing as in the video. As I apply the brakes about an 1/8th of the way the rotor frees up and begins to turn. Then the further I press the pedal in they brake normally. Thwn when I fully release the pedal they begin to catch and grab. I noticed the caliper pulsing as if the rotor was warped badly but I know its not atleast yet. ... Not sure if anyone knows what I mean when I am talking about the caliper pulsing. It moves in and out about a 1/4 inch as the rotor turns around a full rotation. Can't feel it in the pedal though. So idk I'm confused at this point I don't know wheter to back out the pushrod or move it in more it appears to be out as far as it can go out.

Very strange situation. I don't understand why pressing the pedal releases the caliper. Theoretically it should just stay stopped. Maybe you have some type of problem with the proportioning valve?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Legend_master

Very strange situation. I don't understand why pressing the pedal releases the caliper. Theoretically it should just stay stopped. Maybe you have some type of problem with the proportioning valve?

---

It is not releasing the caliper, the passenger side is grabbing as much as the driver side is when the driver side starts to turn. If the brakes are grabbing it could be a clogged line or the caliper and rotor are not aligned.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by charliefowle03

Brake pedal feels a lot better but the driver side is still dragging. I remved thw wheels after a day of driving to work and back. And it looks like the rotor is already looking overhewted. Jacked it up and took the wheels off and put it in drive.. thwn observed the rotors turning the pasenger rotates freely byt not so consistently on the driver. It appears to be doing the same rhing as in the video. As I apply the brakes about an 1/8th of the way the rotor frees up and begins to turn. Then the further I press the pedal in they brake normally. Thwn when I fully release the pedal they begin to catch and grab. I noticed the caliper pulsing as if the rotor was warped badly but I know its not atleast yet. ... Not sure if anyone knows what I mean when I am talking about the caliper pulsing. It moves in and out about a 1/4 inch as the rotor turns around a full rotation. Can't feel it in the pedal though. So idk I'm confused at this point I don't know wheter to back out the pushrod or move it in more it appears to be out as far as it can go out.

---

remove the pads from the calipers and see if the driver side turns freely. If it does the brakes are definitely grabbing. If it still doesn't move freely you may have a bad bearing.
If the driver side turns freely without the brake pads, check the hub to see if it is bent by using a dial indicator while slowly turning the hub.

You're overthinking things. Your car has an open diff. That means that only one wheel is going to turn at a time. The brakes are never going to apply at exactly the same time, so when the brakes hit the passenger rotor, the diff spins the driver's side wheel instead.

Normally functioning brakes will always drag slightly. If you can turn the wheel by hand, then the brake is not dragging, even if it sounds like it. Normal brakes also generate tremendous amounts of heat, so your rotors are always going to discolor quickly. There's no way to prevent that.

I don't see any pics of your guide pins. Did you check them? Are they chewed up? Did you clean and re-grease them? Do they slide smoothly?

Aside from that, I don't see anything that makes me worried. Just drive that car and enjoy.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz

You're overthinking things. Your car has an open diff. That means that only one wheel is going to turn at a time. The brakes are never going to apply at exactly the same time, so when the brakes hit the passenger rotor, the diff spins the driver's side wheel instead.

Normally functioning brakes will always drag slightly. If you can turn the wheel by hand, then the brake is not dragging, even if it sounds like it. Normal brakes also generate tremendous amounts of heat, so your rotors are always going to discolor quickly. There's no way to prevent that.

I don't see any pics of your guide pins. Did you check them? Are they chewed up? Did you clean and re-grease them? Do they slide smoothly?

Aside from that, I don't see anything that makes me worried. Just drive that car and enjoy.

---

Thank you for your help guys. I've ordered some brake hoses for the front just to elimate the anxiety about all this. I smell brakes burning right after I get oit after a 15 minute drive. Is this normal. I MEAN I CANT EVER TOUCH THE rim its so hot after driving for 15 minutes. Heqt just radiates out from the wheel.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz

You're overthinking things. Your car has an open diff. That means that only one wheel is going to turn at a time. The brakes are never going to apply at exactly the same time, so when the brakes hit the passenger rotor, the diff spins the driver's side wheel instead.

Normally functioning brakes will always drag slightly. If you can turn the wheel by hand, then the brake is not dragging, even if it sounds like it. Normal brakes also generate tremendous amounts of heat, so your rotors are always going to discolor quickly. There's no way to prevent that.

I don't see any pics of your guide pins. Did you check them? Are they chewed up? Did you clean and re-grease them? Do they slide smoothly?

Aside from that, I don't see anything that makes me worried. Just drive that car and enjoy.

---

This may be a little off subject, but I've been thinking about getting these for a gain in MPG. They essentially move the brake pad away from the rotor when the brakes are not being applied. Maybe they could help in your situation.

Raybestos Brakes - News - Product News Detail

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Legend_master

This may be a little off subject, but I've been thinking about getting these for a gain in MPG. They essentially move the brake pad away from the rotor when the brakes are not being applied. Maybe they could help in your situation.

Raybestos Brakes - News - Product News Detail

---

I've seen those on other vehicles..stock. newer csrs of course never knew their proper function. Are they universal or do you need there caliper for them to properrly work?

It's actually just presses on the top of the pad. Have not tested them yet, I did see some people online using them on civics. They are similar in design.

Found a PDF for application chart. Guessing maybe the ones for the 93 Accor coupe.

http://www.nucap.com/admin/includes/doc_view.php?ID=547

It sounds to me like your problem is that brake booster adjustment. Everything else is new, and the booster was replaced. I bet money that's the problem.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by charliefowle03

Thank you for your help guys. I've ordered some brake hoses for the front just to elimate the anxiety about all this. I smell brakes burning right after I get oit after a 15 minute drive. Is this normal. I MEAN I CANT EVER TOUCH THE rim its so hot after driving for 15 minutes. Heqt just radiates out from the wheel.

---

The wheels aren't going to be cool after a drive. Is the one wheel significantly hotter than the other? The burning smell would give me pause. Is it difficult to remove the caliper? If the brake is hanging up that bad, then it should be quite hard to remove from the rotor.

And once again for the 15th time: GUIDE PINS!!!!!! Stop easter egging and check them.

The smell could be from new pad/rotors breaking in. Can you spin the wheel by hand freely? If it does turn 1-2 times then you're fine. Minor dragging is normal. Wheel being so hot to touch is definitely not normal and yes do check your guide pins! Are they greased properly?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hazwan

The smell could be from new pad/rotors breaking in. Can you spin the wheel by hand freely? If it does turn 1-2 times then you're fine. Minor dragging is normal. Wheel being so hot to touch is definitely not normal and yes do check your guide pins! Are they greased properly?

---

The guide pins appearrf to be lubed prior to installation. Shouldn't they come lubed if I boight the whole caliper set? I will definstely get some lube t omorrow either way . I will try the spin test hazwan. But yes I think the ddriver side is noticeably hotter than the passenger side. And definately hot to the touch. Weve had crappy rain all week so I haven't had a chance to properly investigate. Again the calipe appeares to move in and out a quarter inch as the wheel rotstes when I had the tire off. Is that normal. It pulsated if you know what I mwan as if the surface of the rotor where not level all the way around. But the rotor is brand new and doesn't appear to be out of wack or anyrhing.

Any one have a specific distance or measurement I can take for proper puahrod lengrh on rhe booster?

They should come lubed if you bought the whole assembly but then people make mistakes. Who knows if they missed or didn't put enough grease in it?

I honestly don't think its your pushrod clearance as the other brakes did not drag or create enough heat right?

One thing you should try is to spin the wheel and see if its dragging and if it does, undo the bleeder screw and see if it went away. I'm pretty sure its your brake hose

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hazwan

They should come lubed if you bought the whole assembly but then people make mistakes. Who knows if they missed or didn't put enough grease in it?

I honestly don't think its your pushrod clearance as the other brakes did not drag or create enough heat right?

One thing you should try is to spin the wheel and see if its dragging and if it does, undo the bleeder screw and see if it went away. I'm pretty sure its your brake hose

---

I think your right haz. The hose is going to be in the mail today and I will post some pics and update. The passenger and rear are all cool. I mean atleast not as bad I guess. The passenger front was no where near as hot as the driver but still hot though. I wouldn't touch the lugs with my bare hand.

So its late. this may be brief.. Update . Iadjust the pushrod on the booster to go more in. Bled the front brakes again... The more i messed around on it today iim thinking the proportioning valve may be gunked up just like i asssumed the saliper seized up. From all the crap that broke down when the ms and booster crapped out. Leading me to think that it is not allowing the front caliper to relieve the pressure. I want to replace it just for the heck i have done some much bleeding on this thing. im sick of it. Only the driver front is not rotating freelY. Atleast consistently. The passeneger side is just fine. so the pushrod problem would be narrowed out on that fact. the caliper is brand new. guide pins are greased. ms is new, booster new. Brake lines are in good shape...hmmmm. the only remaing factor is the proportioning valve. I neede to check the right rear thats how these things are worked oout to function right? i mean it would be malfunction just like thedriver front if this were thge problem? Thoughts, ideas? Ugh im tired...ZZZZZZZZ

wheels spun identically when the carwas in the air. they didnt like whip around so silky like but you know, enough to you a hand with minimal force and will get a full rotation in. As i undo the bleeder the baby frees right up and rotates freely when thecar is indrive and in the air. as i tighten it back down itslowly return to grabbing the rotor and catches. ??

http://www.justanswer.com/honda/1ipj...rd-4-door.html


Very similar situation here

If you take the caliper off and push the pedal what happens? Stick some wood or something in between to see how hard it pushes down and what happens when you let off. The piston could be having issues. Just because it's new doesn't mean it works.

How did you know the rubber hoses are fine? They can be fine from the outside but collapsing on the inside basically acting like a check valve, allowing fluid to flow to the caliper but not return back to the master cylinder.

If I'm reading your issue correctly, the only real problem at this point is that the driver's wheel is hotter than the passenger's. You're not getting any kind of pull when braking. You're not warping rotors. You don't have abysmal gas mileage. You haven't lost power. Really you don't have any other kind of bad brake symptom beside the heat you're feeling on the wheel. Beside that, the brakes feel good and stop well. I'm not seeing where the brake problem is here.

I'm not trying to be a dick, even though I know I'm succeeding. It's just that I've been down this road spending all kinds of time and money trying to fix a problem that wasn't really there. When you're a meticulous perfectionist who overthinks things, this is what happens. If your brakes had a problem, you'd know it from how the car drives.

Don't make yourself crazy with this.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz

If I'm reading your issue correctly, the only real problem at this point is that the driver's wheel is hotter than the passenger's. You're not getting any kind of pull when braking. You're not warping rotors. You don't have abysmal gas mileage. You haven't lost power. Really you don't have any other kind of bad brake symptom beside the heat you're feeling on the wheel. Beside that, the brakes feel good and stop well. I'm not seeing where the brake problem is here.

I'm not trying to be a dick, even though I know I'm succeeding. It's just that I've been down this road spending all kinds of time and money trying to fix a problem that wasn't really there. When you're a meticulous perfectionist who overthinks things, this is what happens. If your brakes had a problem, you'd know it from how the car drives.

Don't make yourself crazy with this.

---

Maybe so but the fact is that was not occuring prior to the brake booster replacement. I do experiwnce brake fade pretty quickly after driving on thw freeway. And thw fact that the rotor is already heat blue makes me wonder. The passenger side lloks as new as it was out of the box. Therefore it is definately an issue to me. I am by no means a neat freak or whatever . I really just think my ahit could build up to a catstrophic failure in the braking system. Im paranoid because its the brakes.
I really appreciate you words of reliefe. And you are helping its just that Im just frustrated I can't lut the words into a proper description of what's happening. I'm sorry. I jusr know that what's happening isn't good.

So I'm trying to find out how I can stop the problem of mt wheels becoming 495ºF after a 10 minute drive. I have a great feel in the brake pedal but I can feel the fade now which I'm not digging. I just think I'm going to replace the hose and the clean the proporting valve.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PDXAccord79

If you take the caliper off and push the pedal what happens? Stick some wood or something in between to see how hard it pushes down and what happens when you let off. The piston could be having issues. Just because it's new doesn't mean it works.

---

I'm gonna try this

When my passenger's side caliper froze, I don't feel anything. Drives straight, pedal feels normal except when it started smoking and my brake fluid boiling and I've lost all the brakes but before it got so hot that it smokes, I can't feel any difference.

One rotation is acceptable. Mine stops after 1.5 turn with minimal force spinning the wheels

One diagnostic tool you could use here is an infrared thermometer to see just how hot things are and what the differences are between sides. They have them at harbor frieght for cheep. They come in handy for many things too like checking hvac, electrical connections, seeing if you can fry eggs on your driveway, seeing thru walls once you get good with it.
I am alittle concerned about the pushrod adjustment, that really is the last resort and messing with it early on can make a diagnostic nightmare a horror.
Infrared Thermometer - Non-contact, Digital Thermometer

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hazwan

How did you know the rubber hoses are fine? They can be fine from the outside but collapsing on the inside basically acting like a check valve, allowing fluid to flow to the caliper but not return back to the master cylinder.

---

I agree with Hazwan. Sounds like a brake hose collapsing seen it happen many times where people would change everything but their hoses and bring it to the shop because they couldn't figure it out and it would be the brake hose. When you crack the bleeder does it squirt fluid out like it is pressurized or just kind of drip out? If it squirts out I'd try the rubber hose first. In 20+ years I think I've replaced one proportioning valve and that ended up not being the problem.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 2oodoor

seeing if you can fry eggs on your driveway, [/url]

---

This is always handy in Fl and Ga so you can tell when it's safe to fry the eggs and not just have a big eggy mess in your driveway. lmao Didn't think I'd notice that did you roo?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 2oodoor

One diagnostic tool you could use here is an infrared thermometer to see just how hot things are and what the differences are between sides. They have them at harbor frieght for cheep. They come in handy for many things too like checking hvac, electrical connections, seeing if you can fry eggs on your driveway, seeing thru walls once you get good with it.
I am alittle concerned about the pushrod adjustment, that really is the last resort and messing with it early on can make a diagnostic nightmare a horror.
Infrared Thermometer - Non-contact, Digital Thermometer

---

ROFL! seeing through walls is an excellent diagnostic ability. But yeah totally, my brake fluid was not boiling but it was hot when i dipped my finger in it. I have never hear of a proportioning valve going bad either. so thats what is dumb that if one of these things really does have to be replaced. Is nt the brake hose just a thick hydraulic cose. Likehow can it become a check valve. Ive just heard they crack?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 2oodoor

One diagnostic tool you could use here is an infrared thermometer to see just how hot things are and what the differences are between sides. They have them at harbor frieght for cheep. They come in handy for many things too like checking hvac, electrical connections, seeing if you can fry eggs on your driveway, seeing thru walls once you get good with it.
I am alittle concerned about the pushrod adjustment, that really is the last resort and messing with it early on can make a diagnostic nightmare a horror.
Infrared Thermometer - Non-contact, Digital Thermometer

---

ROFL! seeing through walls is an excellent diagnostic ability. But yeah totally, my brake fluid was not boiling but it was hot when i dipped my finger in it. I have never hear of a proportioning valve going bad either. so thats what is dumb that if one of these things really does have to be replaced. Is nt the brake hose just a thick hydraulic hose. Like how can it become a check valve. Ive just heard they crack?

Egg-zackly :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 2oodoor

Egg-zackly :)

---

Hah. Right now I'm having problems locsting my brake hose in the mail. It was delivered 2 days ago supposedly but I know its not in my mailbox. I live in an apaetment and got one of those dumb communoty boxes outside and it is not at the local usps office. Its parcel mail and it causing a lot of confusion. Ugh

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by apache07x

I agree with Hazwan. Sounds like a brake hose collapsing seen it happen many times where people would change everything but their hoses and bring it to the shop because they couldn't figure it out and it would be the brake hose. When you crack the bleeder does it squirt fluid out like it is pressurized or just kind of drip out? If it squirts out I'd try the rubber hose first. In 20+ years I think I've replaced one proportioning valve and that ended up not being the problem.

---

It squirts out when we are bleeding them.

The rubber brake hose has steel coil inside like a ribbon. If the hose is old the steel coil can rust or break, also if it is pulled or pinched it can be damaged by bending the coiled up steel inside...all of which can cause blockage and one way hydraulic pressure because it can block in applied pressure andnot release it between the blockage and caliper.
Sometimes they can contract like finger cuffs or 'chinese handcuffs' sorry if thats not pc but thats what they used to call them at the novelty store.

http://www.brakequip.com/pdf/june12/...blems_2012.pdf

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by charliefowle03

ROFL! seeing through walls is an excellent diagnostic ability. But yeah totally, my brake fluid was not boiling but it was hot when i dipped my finger in it. I have never hear of a proportioning valve going bad either. so thats what is dumb that if one of these things really does have to be replaced. Is nt the brake hose just a thick hydraulic hose. Like how can it become a check valve. Ive just heard they crack?

---

Well like a hydraulic hose there are several layers to the hose. What happens is the inner wall separates from the outer and when you release pressure off of the pedal instead of the fluid returning to the MC it sucks the hose shut and won't let the fluid out of the caliper. That in turn keeps pressure in the caliper and makes it partially, or sometimes completely, hang up. Usually it does just what your describing though. Seem like everything is working except a brake is getting hot.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by apache07x

Well like a hydraulic hose there are several layers to the hose. What happens is the inner wall separates from the outer and when you release pressure off of the pedal instead of the fluid returning to the MC it sucks the hose shut and won't let the fluid out of the caliper. That in turn keeps pressure in the caliper and makes it partially, or sometimes completely, hang up. Usually it does just what your describing though. Seem like everything is working except a brake is getting hot.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

---

Great info thank you! The brake hose i ordered got returned back because for somereason they though my apartment was vacant? Does that say something about my lack of checking mail? hmm any way so i ordered another and will bew here in a few days. For now i have some pictures to update.
I pulled the guide pins that came with the Beck/Arnley Calipers. Remind you these are 4 days old....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 2oodoor

The rubber brake hose has steel coil inside like a ribbon. If the hose is old the steel coil can rust or break, also if it is pulled or pinched it can be damaged by bending the coiled up steel inside...all of which can cause blockage and one way hydraulic pressure because it can block in applied pressure andnot release it between the blockage and caliper.
Sometimes they can contract like finger cuffs or 'chinese handcuffs' sorry if thats not pc but thats what they used to call them at the novelty store.

http://www.brakequip.com/pdf/june12/...blems_2012.pdf

---

Ahh this is fantastic. this is just what i was looking for. the cut away pics. I can definately see mine being all bent and pinched like that i can vaugely remeber sometime where i have dropped thos thingsdoing some brakes on this vehicle. eeeehh. This whole theory does make sense thouugh of it not being able to relieve pressure.

From the pdf Haz.....

Open the bleeder valve
to see if the wheel
rotates.
If the wheel hangs up after
1. Loosening the steel
line to flexible brake
hose and
2. Opening bleeder valve.
The most likely cause is a
one way flapper restriction
in the flexible brake hose.


Boom

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-H...713_133142.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0...713_132805.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0...713_132805.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r...713_132745.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-v...713_132735.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-H...713_132731.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C...713_132721.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--...713_132052.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q...713_132047.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-k...713_132040.jpg

pittage...4days old? This was the bottom slide pin too. if that is any relevance to diagnosing

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r...713_131914.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X...713_131906.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R...713_131902.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O...713_131857.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s...713_131843.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1...713_131837.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-X...713_131831.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-g...713_131821.jpg

Well I wouldn't worry much about the pitting as long as the bores are smooth and the pins would slide freely (with enough grease obviously!)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hazwan

Well I wouldn't worry much about the pitting as long as the bores are smooth and the pins would slide freely (with enough grease obviously!)

---

Greased em hard today. Went ahead and reordered my hoses from rockauto. There was a confusion with the delivery... comercial break...

I have replaced the brake hoses. The flexible rubber hoses. And I still stand with the same problem. The the front left caliper is hanging up and it is being to fry up all my new goodies. The caliper is freakin cook medium well and the rim is begining to get a nice Carmel glaze on it! Yum. Ok enough of the food references. .. I am going to the master cylinder again. Since it is only one side being held up could the master cylinder be a suspect? Reminds you that I did just replace the booster and the master cylinder. Where else do I go from here. I am bleeding them again tonight

Update: Took for a test drive after another bleed on the front. Still the left front was untouchable after a 10 min drive. Passenger aide was hot too, which is new. But it wasn't nearly as hot as the driver side. I went ahead and twisted the pushrod nut clockwise (bring it in closer and relieve pressure off the m.s.) almost all the way till it completely came off the threads( kind of hard to explain unless you have done this). Took for test drive and problem was solved. :)Now time to get a new rotor. Baby is cooked. The caliper is pretty cooked too. I mean like it went from that brand shiny new silver aluminum color to rusty burnt tarnished brown. Do you think it will be ok. 500 miles with straight 400º temps on it.

I believe it was a collapsed hose on the driver side in combination with a maladjusted puahrod length after installation.

That's great man. I'm glad you got it fixed. And I applaud you for sticking with it until you got it figured out. I know it's a pain in the ass and super frustrating to deal with issues like this. That's so awesome you got it going! Awesome work.

The caliper might be okay. It's hard to say. I cooked one on my car as well, and it wound up being sticky because I think it melted the piston seal. I'd say replace it when you can, but if you're sure it's not sticking now, you're probably okay.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy

That's great man. I'm glad you got it fixed. And I applaud you for sticking with it until you got it figured out. I know it's a pain in the ass and super frustrating to deal with issues like this. That's so awesome you got it going! Awesome work.

The caliper might be okay. It's hard to say. I cooked one on my car as well, and it wound up being sticky because I think it melted the piston seal. I'd say replace it when you can, but if you're sure it's not sticking now, you're probably okay.

---

Im very fortunate for you guys here and the beautiful resources on the webs. I learned alot as usual throufh the process and truly hope someone comes across this thread if they have the same issue. although it took me about 8 other forums and a little bit of napa+autozone weirdos to get an idea. it was just a matter of replacing everything and I really think this booster pushrod is rediculous. 1mm can make a huge difference.

Its strange how the pushrod clearance appears to be normal at least from the pics. Glad that you have everything sorted out though! Your caliper and rotor might be fine from the heat. If they're functioning properly now, I'd leave it alone. You need to at least replace the fluid as they're probably boiled before.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hazwan

Its strange how the pushrod clearance appears to be normal at least from the pics. Glad that you have everything sorted out though! Your caliper and rotor might be fine from the heat. If they're functioning properly now, I'd leave it alone. You need to at least replace the fluid as they're probably boiled before.

---

I feel like every once in awhile the problem returns. some days the brakes are touchier than others. some days the lugs nuts are boiling hot again, most days not. id say 1/7 days it comes back. Does anyone have a spec on the pushrod clearance for US 83 Accord 4dr. I want to verify this so I can rest. Could a bad bleed cause brakes to stick?