where can my friend buy a weber carb for his 87 accord? and how much is it? thanks.
matt
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where can my friend buy a weber carb for his 87 accord? and how much is it? thanks.
matt
If you want to get the weber carburettor kit for your accord, you can go on this website
Make sure you get the whole thing with the correct adapter plate.
Weber Carburetor
You can also get different jet kits for the carb Jet Kit
when we get our new FAQ going, that's gonna be in there :)
Hi
Ive got the carb well Ive got a 38dgas (couple of) but cant find the adaptor for the manifold.
I emailed WWW.carbs.net and haven received a reply.
Has anyone got a part number or something & is there a linkage kit etc?
Thanks
Have you managed to find any weber supliers in the uk? Any shop that carries weber parts should be able to get them, and sourceing them localy will save you a bit in shipping and customs. I forget the part number off hand, but I know I posted it on the old old board http://pub63.ezboard.com/b3gs somewhere. Personaly I don't like carbs.net, pierce manifolds is a good place, their catalog sucks but call them up on the phone and they'll have the answers you need (they only take phone orders, no online order system). Topend is also a decent place, thats where I got my adapter and jetting kit from. They put together a jetting kit for the dgv, I don't know about the dgs but you could ask. Your most likely going to need to rejet the carb to use it on your motor.
andy
What will a weber carb do for you? is it worth the investment? With NO other mods to the car, and I add the carb, will it potentially damage anything?
CoAsTeR
I installed the weber carb today, I have it backwards with the idle/mixture screw facing the front of the car. I tried to have them facing the firewall but I couldn't locate a place where to put the throttle return spring bracket. Anyhow when i tried to start the car the first couple of times it would start but then die on me. The after that, I would turn the key and it would just not turnover at all. I noticed after checking my spark plugs that they are wet so now I have caused flooding from trying to start several times. I checked all around the engine bay to see if i missed something. I checked several times to see if I plugged all the vaccum hoses up except for the vaccum advance line farthest from the distributor.
I do think i am missing one thing the brake booster, how can i locate it to see if it connected?
I've been at this all day and will be out tomorrow to look for the source for the problem. Any help would be appreciated.
The brake booster is a big vaccum line connected to the rear of the intake manifold...
In the back of the intake manifold, there is this line that comes out with two ports sticking out of it, is one of them it?
Do you have any idea what could be the cause of it not starting?
Chek and make sure the wet spark plugs are wet with gas or coolant. In my Intake manifold there was a hole where the gasket went between the intake man. and the adapter bracket that had to plugged becasue it was dumping coolant into the intake manifold. This caused my cat to seem to be running very rich soak the plugs. After the hole was plugged, the coolant was kept out and the car ran great.
Yep, my spark plugs where wet gas, i could tell from the way they looked.
I know that hole, there is coolant coming out of it, it is right on the intake manifold, So you plugged it up?
I wasn't sure what to do with it being there i just put the sealant and gasket on and left it, hmmm I wonder if that was the cause?
Got the weber running sort of, with the help of some friends, but out of the exhaust was a whole cloud of white smoke, checked my oil dipstick to find the it was all creamy, from the mixture of oil, gas and fuel i guess. Come to find out my head gasket went.
So i spent all that time installing the thing only to have the head gasket go, what a waste.
Now I looking for a new motor, got some leads and have come across an 89 accord with only 78k miles.
I'm gonna have to do something, cuz I need my car.
um youre getting a new engine because you blew your head gasket? dont make sense...just replace your head gasket...or am i missing something here? :rolleyes:
Damn that blows (no pun intended)
but yeah just plugged it up and life is great. I think it was to heat the base of the old Keihin carb.
I am looking into getting a new engine because at the advice of my mechanic who looked at my car, I have over 200K, even if a new head gasket was put in, there could be other problems that could occur with the age and mileage of the engine. And he would still have to see if the head on the engine was still good condition before just putting a new seal on. Because of this he advised I would be better if I just swap in another motor. He has already given me a price on a low mileage motor which I found to be reasonable compared to spending hundreds on repairing the high mile motor I currently have.Quote:
Originally posted by mike89lxi
um youre getting a new engine because you blew your head gasket? dont make sense...just replace your head gasket...or am i missing something here? :rolleyes:
Oh yeah, if and when I do get the motor, I'm definitely going to put the weber on there. The sound that car made at WOT, truly blew me away.
Got to a junkyard, get a lowmilage 88-89 lx-i motor exhaust manifold and down pipe. Bolt you carbed intake on it and drop it in.
andy
Thanks for the advice and info, I never even thought of trying to get an motor out of an Lx-i.
So get an Lxi motor (w/ low miles of course) and remove the FI intake off and bolt the carb intake and weber carb on. Isn't that what you did? The way you said it makes it sound like a simple switch, but afterspend almost 2 days plugging up all those lines and what not on my Carbed motor to hook up the weber nothing seems very easy. I know the EFI does not have the exact same setup as the carburetor, but am I following the same procedure when I was converting to the weber?
I already have an aftermarket header and some other mods that I could transfer over to a new motor.
I guess you suggested the 88-89 efi motor due to its higher compression vs other motors from the same generation?
The head and block are the same on both the efi and the carbed except for slightly higher compressoin pistons. Putting the motor in will be a direct bolt in. Since you have a header, don't worry about the lx-i's exhaust manifold its better then the carb manifold, but its not a header. You need to swap the thermostat houseing and the distributor over from the carbed engine aswell, they also just bolt on. There are no major mods or fabrications to make it work. Everything will fit in there just like it was with the carbed motor and it will all look the same, except for a difrent valve cover. There are actually only a few vacuume lines you have to plug with the weber. You only need to plug the ones coming from the manifold, everything else doesn't matter. There are a few diferent desigens for the 3g manifold so I won't go into which ones. Just look at the manifold when you have it off, you'll see them. Yeah I do have an 88 lx-i motor thats been converted to carb, and yes I am suggesting it because of the higher compression. Its not that much of a gain, but its not going to cost you more to put a carb converted lx-i motor then it will to put in a carbed motor. So you might as well take a little power increase with it.
andy
As I was putting my carb back on after replacing the gaskets I noticed next to where I plug in my distributor advance there is a second vaccuum port thats capped up. Whats that one for?
Oh and BTW could a PCV valve cause a low RPM stumble? I'm still trying to track down my rare low rpm stumble. I'm narrowed down to small idle jet in the carb or maybe the PCV valve. Pretty sure its the Jet. I think my mixture screw is like 3 to 3.5 turns out from the carb...dammit.
No on the pack of the weber carb it self. My advance hose goes to one brass tube on the back of the weber, then right next to it there is another brass vaccum tube that is capped. Whats that for? Damn I knew I should taken a pic when I had it off of there.
Just came in from motor shopping.
Andy, I was just going to ask you about the distributor install since I know the EFI Accords come with the Toyo Distributor and Carbs can come with either a hitachi or toyo, mines by the way is an hitachi, I didn't know If I could just swap my distributor into the efi motor.
One junk yard had 3 EFI engines all w/o the distributor and I wasn't sure if i could just install mine on there so I didn't buy them. Then I read your post, oh well.
I went to other places but no one had any accord engines or they told me they weren't sure if they had any in their yard.
For convenience and time, I went with somebody who is willing to sell me an carbed 89 engine with only 78,000 miles. Will have it by tomorrow.
I really wanted to go with the 88-89 efi, but o'well, I didn't plan on having my head gasket go after installing the weber
I really appreciate the info though, cuz I definitely want to do what you did with the the EFI motor. I'll keep the swap in mind for a future project on my current accord or if i decide to buy another DX/LX model and use it as a project.
Yep i know what you are talking about it is another brass tube located right next to the brass vacuum advance tube you hook up from your distributor.
A20a1, didn't you tell me that was the fast idle cam screw? or is it the screw behind the choke?
Its not much of a gain going from the carbed to the efi pistons, the extra .3:1 in compression will only net a few hp. Since you already have a good carbed motor coming you might as well stick with it. Spending money on other mods will net you more hp then swaping to a lxi block.
andy
Dunno, mine only has one vacuume port. The rare stumble could be the pcv, but its usually more noticeable when it goes bad. Its mostly likely a small vacuume leak. One thing I noticed on my carb adapter was that it had two of the corners choped off next to the carb studs. I though it was just a fluke in the way mine was made, I didn't think they would actually want it like that. If your's has that then that could be the problem. It was the source of my crappy fluctuateing idle (mine was very bad though). The bas of the dgv carb isnt flat, it has some ridges and channels ect, you've seen it and should know what I am talking about. The cut off corners are cut so a tiny bit of the channel area hangs over the side, so the gasket doesn't quite seal. Test to see if its leaking, spray some carb cleaner around the area and see if the speed goes up. An easy fix for it if it is leaking is to get a spacer. I think they sell them at pierce but their catalog isnt the greatest, email them and ask. Or you can make one, you need a 36mm hole saw, some semi thick metal plate, a saw, and a drill. Just trace the carb base gasket onto the metal and cut it into the shape of the gasket.
andy
Yeah mine has those odd angled corners. I just made some new gaskets out of the cork and rubber 'Engine Seal' paper from advance. Maybe that will help with the seal in that area. I'll check for a leak when I think about it. My idle however is dead on, so I guess if its leaking its not leaking much. I just need to get a damn vac guage!!:)
I'm thinking of doing it... any thoughts on the 38 DGES? It uses the same adapter, correct?
I finally got the weber carb running, it took a while cuz I had to check and recheck lines and other stuff. She does start, now I just need to smooth out the idle and tune the carb a bit and then I'll have my car back. :D
