Idling (...hands are the devils playground)

so, as ive posted elsewhere here, i have rebuilt the top end on an a20a1 that has an 07D carb. i dont know how, if at all, the 7d carb differs from the 7f carb, or any of the other carbs for that matter.

i went to PnP because i remember seeing a nice shiny reman'd carb assembly. had been sitting there for months. it, of course, was gone.

here's what ive done so far.

replaced choke opener diaphragm
tested fast idle unloader OK
tested primary slow mixture cut-off solenoid OK

tested/replaced frequency solenoid valve c (bad?? have not tested new one per manual, but it doesnt click...)
tested frequency solenoid valve b (bad? not sure im testing correctly...)

messed with the distributor timing all over the place.

i can only get idle (fan not yet coming on) down to 1500rpm-ish with the idle adjustment screw. sometimes it stalls. i have been testing from the engine compartment so i can pull on the throttle cable to keep it going, often, and i dont have a tachometer in the engine compartment so i can only see the rpm when it's stable enough to go look.

i have questions about whether i should have adjusted the timing first, but my old-ass inductive timing light just shows me a bolt head when i put the clamp on the #1 spark plug, dunno what im doing wrong.

do i need to get the timing right first, before messing with the carb? (suggestions for that are welcome)

You sure there's no vacuum leaks? And yes get the timing right first, much easier to be certain of, and work from there. Bolt head? Should be marks on flywheel? Little hole with rubber plug on tranny near under the dizzy. If all else fails set it to top center using the marks on the camshaft gear and have someone help you look for them on flywheel while turning the crankshaft by hand. Maybe off on belt, make sure this is right before you do timing light. Take valve cover off or dizzy cover to assure Tdc on compression for #1. should be at least near if your plug wires are on right. Mark should be lines or a T / + looking mark. #1 furthest plug to the right looking in engine bay. Just throwing stuff out there man

yeah, i know what the marks look like, i used them to get the crank to TDC when i put everything together. but putting the clamp on wire #1 (and yes, it is #1) has me nowhere near it.

it runs pretty well even though it stalls and the idle rpm's are still a little high (down to 1500ish now) so i really couldnt imagine that it's even off by a tooth on the timing belt and still sound as good as it does.

im stumped but ill look more thoroughly tomorrow morning i guess.

i'll try clamping the other plug wires and see what i get.

you did remove advance vacuum checking it? Just make sure there on right dizzy and cylinder positions. Intake mani's have been a problem for me leaking vaccuum in past. checking that none of the nuts are "loose" is free to do. or use aerosol to check everything, just don't blow yourself up. I was trying to say to make sure the cam and flywheel marks line up together. Just trying to help blind here man :)