i need a engine for my 1989 sei friday i got caught in a very hard downpour and got water in my engine the num 4 connecting rod broke i ordered a new one but just in case
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i need a engine for my 1989 sei friday i got caught in a very hard downpour and got water in my engine the num 4 connecting rod broke i ordered a new one but just in case
Check on ebay...there are some engines for the 86-89 Accord available.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/88-89-HONDA-A....c100408.m2460
Some are high mileage, others are carbed. This one is decent mileagewise (if they didn't do a rollback)
im going to atlanta tommorrow morning to get a motor for 350 158000 miles then i will change everything while i got it out
Nice!!
i will start monday i have a week off from work to finish everything
Awesome!!!
Good luck!
i got the engine now it wont start and there is gas in the oil
i got the engine in today and it wont start there is gas inn the oil i dont understand what could it be
ld
i got it running it was the ecu there was water in it i put in my spare and it started up im so happy my baby is back on the road now i have to clean her up now one question if i put a air bypass valve on my cold air intake will it keep water out the engine
the car drives very well I would like to think everyone on here for their knowledge and its great to see other people keeping these wonderful cars alive
it jerks on acceleration till 3000 rpms i cant figure it out yet
i put in new o2 sensors didnt help the ecu blinks 14 times that means icv but its new as well i leaning towards the ecu being bad
I prefer the short ram over the cold air intake because this almost happened to me. I have no idea how I got away with it. My buddy used my lowered CB7 and it had a cold air intake. Had a pretty gnarly downpour that left a lot of water puddles. Well he didnt get the crash course in no water puddles from me before this happened so I get a call a few minutes after he hit one of the said puddles. He said the engine wouldnt turn over. It clicked but nothing. I told him not to touch a damn thing. Hurried to where he broke down and sure as shit. 10 feet passed the puddle sat my car. I pulled the plugs out and had him crank it for a few seconds. Dried everything the best I could and put it all back together. Had him start it and it had a valve tick. I said o-well because It was a $200 car that I had already sold once for $800 and got back from the impound yard.
Well Ran it for a few days and the tick kept getting better and better. After while there was no tick left. Sold it one more time for 1200 and found it in a junk yard 5 years later. Poor thing.
Since then I have been a believer in the short ram. Not much difference if its a daily. track car i can understand.
On another note. I replaced a mazda engine with a year newer engine. Turns out the air intake manifold was a little different causing it to run super rich and super rough. Switched them out and had no problems with it. Even got 1500 for it from the dealership in trade in ! (Had $500 and some change into it with buying and repairing it )
With 14 blinks, your options are:
- Replace EACV
- Replace ECU
- Fix the broken wires somewhere in the circuit
You can narrow it down by following the troubleshooting flowchart on p. 12-43 of the manual (https://www.dropbox.com/s/vzcxevmh7x...anual.pdf?dl=0).
Add to these good suggests, check fuel for contamination or water , engine and body grounds. Keep in mind diagnostic codes are only small clues that can be misleading, especially those that point to post combustion components . also, this typ early primitive obd chain is reliant on sensors up top of chain heiarchy to be reading correctly. Following the factory manuals diagnostic flowchart will help with understanding that.
it was the ecu the new one came in today and it runs like it should thanks a lot everybody