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Hey guys,
As you may have read I'm planning to remove the intake manifold as a big job to replace some coolant hoses, injectors & clean up some rust on the back of the engine. i'm also looking to replace the PCV valve while im there, are there any other jobs I could do while ive got the intake manifold off?
Any tips?
Cheers.
Prepare for an arduous job. You might want to have a hoist on hand. You're not actually making it easier, you know; only moving the hardship to different parts of the engine bay. Still, some things you just gotta do. I think the PCV valve is on the top of the engine and relatively easy to access without removing the intake. Everything below the PCV valve is a different matter. At this age, the entire PCV system is just a crumbling, leaky mess. All the rubber lines should be replaced. The one going from the black box bolted on the back of the block to the PCV valve should be replaced. It's some screwy shape that flares out at one end. You can't find the part anymore, so you'll need to get creative. Someone came up with a pretty good hillbilly rig years ago. Search around the site and you'll find it. Of course the rubber hose that goes from the oil pan to the black box should also be replaced, but you already know that. The oring seal between the black box and the block should also be replaced. You might want to clean the black box while you have it out too. You might also want to rebuild the oil filter base as well. Make sure the relief valve is working well. Finally, the oil pressure light on the dash is in adequate. It only lights AFTER you've already destroyed your engine. Now's the time to add an oil pressure gauge if you ever intend to. Search the site for that job too. The gauge sender goes in place of the oil pressure light sender, but the filter base has some unusual thread pitch that requires an adapter (1/8 BST to 1/8 NPT, if memory serves). Consider replacing the head bolt studs too. They're very old and you'll be sad if they break while you're putting it back together. Spend some time selecting a new intake gasket. Most of those being sold are far too thin. They'll develop tears and leaks a few months after reassembly and you aren't going to want to redo this job. Check the rear motor mount also and if you have to remove the exhaust pipe, prepare to drill out all the studs that will break and have replacement studs on hand.
Oh. And have fun!
Thanks for the tips, that is super helpful and once again really glad I checked here first.
Done a little oil pressure gauge research, 1/8 BST male to 1/8 NPT female is indeed what I want. Then either electrical gauge sender or mechanical gauge in car. T-piece recommended so warning light is still activated, but with new ~20psi sender, other side connected to gauge. If using mechanical use copper or braided tubing into car, not nylon. (just recording for later)
Going to do relief valve now as should have done this when pissing about with other stuff.
more research to be done, thanks a load Snooz,
Any other tips let me know!
Cheers.
I've noticed oil pressure gauge can often be lumped in with water temp and volts, anyone done all three gauges?
I'm 99% sure im gonna go with electrical since they tend to look as good and tend to not be as much of a bitch to install and remedy mechanical issues...
I haven't looked around the dash, has anyone got any photos of gauge setups that they'd like to share? (gonna ask on the facebook group too I reckon)
Cleaned up the oil relief valve good, not really any gunk to report in there.
Anyone got any good quality intake manifold gasket recommendations (Fuel Injection)? RockAuto is tend to be where I can get parts shipped to UK.
Cheers!
All the stuff I listed can be done with the intake still in the car, BTW. Removing the air box gives a lot of room to work back there.
You want to check the relief valve for scoring and verify smooth operation, if you didn't.
This is my gauge cluster.
http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/q...z/DSCN2067.jpg
I eventually swapped out that water gauge for a vacuum gauge, which I greatly prefer. I took a pic, but it got gobbled up by Photobucket.
Nice setup Snooz, It seems like good, unobtrusive placement, the gauges mounted on the dash or A-pillar just look a bit gimmicky to me I guess, mind you I've only mostly seen civics etc...
Yeh i checked for scoring and it ran nice and smooth.
I'm thinking im gonna have to take this intake mani off to do some rust treatment on the freeze plugs that I couldnt reach behind the engine, plus I wanna have a good look and cleanup that coolant pipe, my hope is taking it off will give me more space...
Why do you recommend a hoist? is it particularly heavy, or more a pain to line up?
Cheers
I didn't think mine was that bad taking it off. I got a set of ratcheting wrenches and that helped me get to a few bottom bolts while on the top reaching from the sides. I also drained the oil and took the oil filter off to reach all the way from the bottom of the car with some long swivel extensions.
Good shout Conozo, will give that a go. I've only got basic wrenches so maybe its worth investing in a rachet 10mm wrench.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...02_s00?ie=UTF8
My intake is pretty easy to get off, but these make it so much easier to get those bottom middle bolts
I've got all the kit I reckon, now to install. Where did you wire your voltmeter positive to and then the subsequent ground? (is there a nice bit of chassis I can fix to)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
Also, where did you wire the lights for the gauges to? so they come one when the headlights do.
Finally, do I need a fuse for this setup? or a relay maybe? Apologies for what may seem basic questions, not much experience when it comes to interior wiring.
Cheers!
Oh jeez. I'm supposed to remember this stuff? I don't know. There are a whole bunch of wires back there for the radio. I'm sure I just tapped off of what was there. Just grab the wire that lights the stereo. You can attach the ground to any place really. I don't see a need for a relay.
If your reading actually voltage I would go straight off the battery + post. That would tell you the condition of the battery with out any added voltage drops.
The back light for the gauge I think there is a wire for the radio light as well or trace off the wires from the dial that adjust the brightness.
I try and fuse just about everything I can at some place ....just might save a head ache down the road of a melt down.
