Vector - 1988 DX - RWD Accord

Almost every welding store has let me try the equipment out if I wanted to. Those guys were pretty bored sitting behind a desk, I'm sure they preferred to help me do that than anyway.

I must admit, I am currently somewhat intoxicated, but I can't help but wonder how difficult it would would be to fabricate a tube frame that would take the place of the sheetmetal/sort of structural metal subframe. In other words, just cut out whatever's in the way, reinforce the mounting surfaces, and weld in a tube frame. Iv'e seen fast drag cars that have that from the firewall forward, done very well also, I wonder how hard it would be to do the same thing at the rear axle?
What do you think?

You know, I was going to comment on the flux core thing but I didn't. I wouldn't have even attempted using flux core for the sheet metal stuff. Anytime I try flux core for sheet metal is just punches through. And I actually liked flux core better when I first started. The feed rate for FC is much slower so I found that I could take my time, whereas with solid wire I would end up with these huge ridiculous looking welds. Recently though I've gotten used to the faster feed with solid wire, and I must say, it is VERY nice not to have to deal with all the smoke. My helmet lens doesn't get all clouded up and it's easier on the lungs. You do have to make sure the metal is clean though for solid wire. The cleaner the better.

A tube sub frame would be cool and probably not too difficult if you had a tube bender. But then everything is easier when you're sitting in front of a computer drinking a High Life like I am! :cheers:

Anyway, this is a cool ass project. And I'm really glad you mentioned the stuff about wanting to learn more and testing you skills. I'm exactly the same way. Why else would I bother spending hours on end working on a 20 year old car that isn't worth $2000 on paper? Because I enjoy it and I learn something new with every project. So keep it up man. The tinkerers spirit is sorely lacking in the world today.

C|

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Originally Posted by Accordtheory

Almost every welding store has let me try the equipment out if I wanted to. Those guys were pretty bored sitting behind a desk, I'm sure they preferred to help me do that than anyway.

I must admit, I am currently somewhat intoxicated, but I can't help but wonder how difficult it would would be to fabricate a tube frame that would take the place of the sheetmetal/sort of structural metal subframe. In other words, just cut out whatever's in the way, reinforce the mounting surfaces, and weld in a tube frame. Iv'e seen fast drag cars that have that from the firewall forward, done very well also, I wonder how hard it would be to do the same thing at the rear axle?
What do you think?

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probably not hard if i had those materials, this way was easier interms suspension setup and mounts.. and not to mention i got the front clip for free.

as far as an update goes... heres what i got ....

nothing.. i spent 4 fucking hours looking for my front coil sleeves... tore apart my garage just to find them sitting next to my toolbox with the lid open covering them hahahaha
tomorow i will probably start on the fenders... next week a friend of mine is graciously letting me use his professional welder, and esab 250. if anything this will definitly help with this project.

only other thing i did was chase a bunch of kids down the road that were throwing rocks at my garage. i caught up to them in the teg cuz i didnt feel like running... i expecting some name calling... bunch of middle fingers... but they didnt do shit. i siad some words, they opologized.. thats pretty much it for that.

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Originally Posted by cygnus x-1

You know, I was going to comment on the flux core thing but I didn't. I wouldn't have even attempted using flux core for the sheet metal stuff. Anytime I try flux core for sheet metal is just punches through.

C|

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only time i had that problem was when i was to close to the edge or the metal wasnt clean with paint or rust spots... i should take some video of it, it works pretty good once you find a good patern and dont sit to long in one spot.

Remember with flux core you can pull the gun back which cuts the heat and still weld no worries about gas not shielding.


wp

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Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord

Remember with flux core you can pull the gun back which cuts the heat and still weld no worries about gas not shielding.


wp

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to far away and the wire goes in funny directions lol

but that is a good point.

http://www.kelownaimports.com/images...y1608/4g01.JPG
http://www.kelownaimports.com/images...y1608/4g02.JPG
http://www.kelownaimports.com/images...y1608/4g03.JPG
http://www.kelownaimports.com/images...y1608/4g04.JPG

sittin nice here. back has to come up about 1" or so tho... also the tires are diferent. the rear are 45 series and the front are 40 series. other than that... i didnt really get to much else done cuz some friends came over and we started to drink.. so i figured it wasnt a good ideal to operate a welder while under the influence cuz i'd probably get :Owned:

still looks hella good :)

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Originally Posted by cygnus x-1

The feed rate for FC is much slower so I found that I could take my time, whereas with solid wire I would end up with these huge ridiculous looking welds.

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Once you change your settings, arc voltage and wirespeed, you should be able to get the same basic welding speed/characteristics with either wire. The wire is also available in different diameters, too. What I've observed when switching between flux cored and solid shielded with co2 is that the fluxcore results in a hotter weld for the same arc voltage. I attribute this mostly to the shielding gas absorbing heat. I've also observed CO2 to have more of that cooling affect than argon. And with co2, it is very cheap compared to argon, so you can relatively inexpensively turn up the gas flow a lot to increase this effect, esp when welding on thin metal. You can't weld certain most stainless steels with co2 though. Although I can't currently remember why this is, I have tried it, and it looks horrible.

http://www.kelownaimports.com/images...y1708/4g01.JPG
http://www.kelownaimports.com/images...y1708/4g02.JPG
http://www.kelownaimports.com/images...y1708/4g03.JPG
http://www.kelownaimports.com/images...y1708/4g04.JPG

^^^^ -- started patching the open holes in the fenders today. and unfortunatly i wont be doing anymore work till tuesday/wednesday.

i cant believe how rigid the back of the car is already considering how many holes there are in the fenders.

awesome

Awesome work.

must be a pain to do all those butt welds to cover the gaps.
Wouldn't a lap be easier to work with and clean up?


...wait I think I see a few laps, well good job anyways :D

Wow, epic progress and she still looks beautiful. I just cant wait to see you begin to mount up the engine/tranny and all that good stuff...this thread should start going insane right about then :bow::bow::bow:

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Originally Posted by cygnus x-1

I wouldn't have even attempted using flux core for the sheet metal stuff. Anytime I try flux core for sheet metal is just punches through.

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Same for me, I can't lay down more then half inch bead without it burning a hole, so I stick with 1/4 inch beads and jump around.

you are god............... :bow:

Lookin good dude....can't wait to see the finished result.

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Originally Posted by A20A1

Same for me, I can't lay down more then half inch bead without it burning a hole, so I stick with 1/4 inch beads and jump around.

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i have done that a few times, but i either had the feed to fast or i was running over thin metal.. ie right above plate where welded in on the driver side fender.

So that angle bar you bolted up by the towers was in place the whole time when you cut out the fire wall? I'm just wondering that without the firewall the Towers might shift if you dropped the car down and the weight tilts the towers inwards or outwards or is it sturdy enough without the firewall? I'm referring to the period where you were lining things up, before you started to weld anything together.

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Originally Posted by A20A1

So that angle bar you bolted up by the towers was in place the whole time when you cut out the fire wall? I'm just wondering that without the firewall the Towers might shift if you dropped the car down and the weight tilts the towers inwards or is it sturdy enough without the firewall? I'm referring to the period where you were lining things up, before you started to weld anything together.

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yea thats what i initially thought, so i put a aluminum l bracket with slotted holds over the uca nuts to see if it would move when i dropped it... didnt move any.

i will fab up a upper tower brace when the motor is in the car.

What about turning your gas cap area into a mini scoop to collect air for a cold air intake :D

i think its on the wrong side of the car to be a CAI

Awe... :( I guess you're right.

I was thinking it might look like your gas cap was open but you just tell them it's your fender scoop :D

So what are you wearing while you weld? Back when I had my muffler and exhaust welding business at home, I taced up hangers and pipe with the car on jacks and got sparks in my hair and on my neck so I wrapped my neck in a wet towel. My face mask was the kind you hold with one hand not the full helmet so I still got burned on my head. :D

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Originally Posted by Vector

probably not hard if i had those materials, this way was easier interms suspension setup and mounts.. and not to mention i got the front clip for free.

as far as an update goes... heres what i got ....

nothing.. i spent 4 fucking hours looking for my front coil sleeves... tore apart my garage just to find them sitting next to my toolbox with the lid open covering them hahahaha
tomorow i will probably start on the fenders... next week a friend of mine is graciously letting me use his professional welder, and esab 250. if anything this will definitly help with this project.

only other thing i did was chase a bunch of kids down the road that were throwing rocks at my garage. i caught up to them in the teg cuz i didnt feel like running... i expecting some name calling... bunch of middle fingers... but they didnt do shit. i siad some words, they opologized.. thats pretty much it for that.

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I feel your pain on this one, I hate those kind of set backs , looking for something that is not really lost.

I kind of agree with what A20A1 pointed out. I would consider some lapping with those cosmetic areas, even just using a spot welder then come back with some professional seam sealer/adhesives. Certainly though I would do some full welding on the unibody frame structure areas and towers.

The car is coming along real good Vector,

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Originally Posted by Accordtheory

Once you change your settings, arc voltage and wirespeed, you should be able to get the same basic welding speed/characteristics with either wire. The wire is also available in different diameters, too. What I've observed when switching between flux cored and solid shielded with co2 is that the fluxcore results in a hotter weld for the same arc voltage. I attribute this mostly to the shielding gas absorbing heat. I've also observed CO2 to have more of that cooling affect than argon. And with co2, it is very cheap compared to argon, so you can relatively inexpensively turn up the gas flow a lot to increase this effect, esp when welding on thin metal. You can't weld certain most stainless steels with co2 though. Although I can't currently remember why this is, I have tried it, and it looks horrible.

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Well generally I follow the guidelines on the inside cover of the welder (Lincoln ProMig 175) and they work pretty well. For a given metal thickness it has very different settings for FC and solid. Although I'm using 25/75 CO2/Argon gas right now, and the settings are different from straight CO2, so that may be the reason for the difference. I have a small tank of straight CO2 to try next.

C|