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I replaced the distributor, cap, rotor, plugs, wires and coil along with an oil/filter change. Everything was NGK except the distributor.
I move the distributor, angle the light in every way, rev the engine ect.. and still no mark. I even put a fresh mark on there just to be sure It can be seen.
The tdc mark on the flywheel does not line up with the crank mark. If the dot on the crank is lined up with the half circle on the engine block then the tdc mark is not lined up and vice versa.
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I followed the manual to set the timing to a T and still no mark.
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https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img17/9770/z0t6.jpg
here is the two marks you are looking at on your flywheel. This is a picture from below the car.
You are using the small "window" cut out in the bell housing to check? Its below where the distributor is located and is usually covered with rubber plug. These cars dont use any marks on the timing belt to line up the crankshaft.
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Yes, that's the mark and the location.
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just by your pictures I think you are using the front of the engine to check the crank position is why I posted that.
Don't really have any advice really other than take it to someone that can do it for you.
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All right one of the first questions I asked was it original or aftermarket distributor and I never really got an answer back. Now that I see that it's a replacement distributor. I have had no luck with replacement Distributors I always recommend OEM. If you still have your original distributor that works put that back on and try that
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In your 1st post you said you reset the timing because they told you it could be a tooth off... did you pull the timing belt off either end?
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Sorry I didn't catch that one. I put in a rebuilt OEM. Mine was bad and not rebuildable.
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When I Reset the timing the first time I did so by lining up the crank dot with the half circle and moved the cam over one tooth so that the cam marks would then line up with the head. To do that I loosened the belt.
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It's very easy for the crank to shift when tightening the tensioner back down, may want to check that it didn't move on ya.
Ignore the crank dot, you set it by the "T" on the flywheel/flexplate for initial install when lining up cam/crank. Cam at "UP" position in line with engine and crank at the "T". Just have to make sure the crank doesn't move when tightening down the tensioner as it does like to do it.
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That is where I'm at now. I still cant see the mark on the flywheel and I still have a misfire. Does anyone have any idea what I should do next?
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Take off timing belt and reset timing completely using method described above.
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Yes I have done that. Today I used a can of sea foam in the intake. Seems to run better but now the idle is staying at 1000 rpms (normal 750-800)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
1989_3rdGenAccord
Yes, that's the mark and the location.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
1989_3rdGenAccord
When I Reset the timing the first time I did so by lining up the crank dot with the half circle and moved the cam over one tooth so that the cam marks would then line up with the head. To do that I loosened the belt.
If you have an auto, then you have the 2 marks pictured above. You also have a dot or two. Do NOT use the dots to line up the crank. Use the T or the cross. Don't use the number. Use the T. If you're confused, upload pictures of how you're lining it up and we can advise.
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Yes I used the + not the numbers and not the dot and i still cant see the mark when checking the timing. I also still have a tiny bit of rattle every once in a while. There is also the random misfire.
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I'd say either the block or deck has been shaved, you have the plug wires out of order or you're looking at the wrong pointer. There isn't much else that can go wrong.
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The plug wires are in the correct order
the block, head, and deck? has never been removed
the pointer is the only one there. Should I show pictures ?
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I have an 88 accord lxi and want to swap but I don’t want to have to modify just for fit. Can I get a suggestion on what I should get?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
Lamont Seawright
I have an 88 accord lxi and want to swap but I don’t want to have to modify just for fit. Can I get a suggestion on what I should get?
I believe any kind of swap there's going to be modification but probably b18. Would probably be the easiest
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The a20 intake fits the a18 correct?
Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
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Does anyone have any pictures with the Carb off and any misc pictures of the carb/gaskets/parts/shit? Alot of the threads are too old and the pictures are gone. First time working with a Carb on a 3G.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
BITESIZE
Does anyone have any pictures with the Carb off and any misc pictures of the carb/gaskets/parts/shit? Alot of the threads are too old and the pictures are gone. First time working with a Carb on a 3G.
What are you needing? The carb base gasket o ring I replaced with gasket paper. I did a full vac delete on my carb, its easy for me to get pictures, but I cant tell you what you should replace because I did the bare minimal. O rings on the needle and seat screw, tighten the venturis, just dont touch the accel pump unless its leaking
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I'm new to Carbs, so everything pretty much.
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Are you doing a vacuum delete or something? I can pull my carb off and take pics, thought I would for the vac delete thread anyway, but Im not sure how I can help. As far as it goes inside of it it just needs cleaned out, pull the top off and thats about all you need to do.