Weber 32/36 Help

So ive searched thru some threads about doing the Weber conversion already. The DIY i found dosent have any pics. And it seems like every thread i read people disagree about how to connect the vacuum line for the distributor.

Right now i have the carb all together and on the car but it will just hit and miss and wont run.

Now after reading thru the DIY i find out there is a coolant passage in the intake manifold. I think i know where its at but im not certain.

The only hole i know of is below the carb where the IM mounts to the adapter plate. Is this correct?

Would not filling this cause the car to not run?

I know i have to pull the carb back off and fill the hole but i just want to know if this is my problem.

I have every unused vacuum port caped off. I have the brake booster hooked up, and i have the vacuum line running from the carb to the front port on the distributor.

Thanks in advance.

Plug hole before you kill motor. Its under the adapter plates. Fill with jb weld thenn file flat.

Connect advance to back of manifold.

Tune.

Done

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CzEcHy

Plug hole before you kill motor. Its under the adapter plates. Fill with jb weld thenn file flat.

Connect advance to back of manifold.

Tune.

Done

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Ok. I will do exactly what you said. Thank you for the info.

I got the carb back off. Just to be sure which hole do i plug up? I know its not rocket science but i want to be sure this is right. And its hard to explain things like this with out pictures.

This hole.
http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u380/SWMO/88207.jpg

Or this hole.
http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u380/SWMO/88205.jpg

Ya just fill the one on the top. Drill a lip into the hole, make sure.no shavings go in.

Then fill with metal putty.


If I recall, you can block the coolant line that goes ro that hole also? Not sure tho. I will check my weber.accord tommorow. Its pretty easy to figure out tho just by looking around.

The top hole, the other one is a vaccum port. Ive plugged that top hole before by threading it a little and used a hEx head set screw. The coolant lines on the manifold can be bypssed too but then your temp sender for the guage wont work.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CzEcHy

Ya just fill the one on the top. Drill a lip into the hole, make sure.no shavings go in.

Then fill with metal putty.


If I recall, you can block the coolant line that goes ro that hole also? Not sure tho. I will check my weber.accord tommorow. Its pretty easy to figure out tho just by looking around.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2oodoor

The top hole, the other one is a vaccum port. Ive plugged that top hole before by threading it a little and used a hEx head set screw. The coolant lines on the manifold can be bypssed too but then your temp sender for the guage wont work.

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Alright thanks you two! :wave: I should have this done today.

Im finding that on this forum you all are alot more helpful with alot less bashing than im used to!

"Use the search!"
"Did you try searching?"
:deadhorse:
lol

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Originally Posted by POS carb

"Use the search!"
"Did you try searching?"
:deadhorse:
lol

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Lmao! Yeah its kinda like " Ok guys, heres what were going to do. Since we have answered every question someone can ask and have talked about everything we can possibly talk about were going to close all threads except Off Topic and Members Rides Threads."

I was/am a member on a forum recently where you type in the URL and you can feel the hate. Its like a land of hard core gangsters that gang bang 24/7 over the internet.

:gun: :nervous: :help: :rocket:

Needless to say i like it here alot better. :thumbup:

Anyways, i got the hole pluged. All went well. I still havent started the car yet to see if it runs but i should know soon.

Ok. I pluged the top hole with quick steel. So it runs great and idles good. Now onto my next problem.

I was leting it run, steam was coming out the muffler and i thought to myself "ok thats the old coolant burning out of the exhaust from when i didnt have that hole pluged." So i waited and watched for a few mins. After it didnt stop or slow down i shut it off. As i get around to the front of the car i notice coolant bubbling in the overflow tank and the upper hose is leaking at the radiator.

So i know im getting air in the water and water in the air.

My only idea now is to bypass the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the water pump.

If that dont fix it i have no clue what im going to do. Thats all it can be i guess.

It dosent have a cracked head or a blown head gasket. I put 300-400 miles on it before i parked it to do the conversion.

Any ideas anyone has would be helpful.

Here are some pics. If you see ive done something wrong LMK for sure.

In this picture notice the EGR part or whatever its for in the upper left hand top corner. What i have done is take and weld the center hole of a washer up solid, cut that EGR thing, put the washer inside of the neck of that thing to close it off, and screw it on. I dont think that would cause whats going on but idk. It dosent leak tho.

Also notice the hose coming from the back of the manifold or from below it. I caped it off thinking it wouldnt be used. Again idk if thats right but thats what i did.

And i have pluged off the valve cover breather tube and poked a hole in it with a thumb tack until i go and buy a small filter.
http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...8accord002.jpg

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...8accord003.jpg

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...8accord005.jpg

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...8accord006.jpg

I see a huge problem, it'son backwards!
That shouldnt make it run hot though...

Choke coil shud be on firewall side and linkage for throttle on driver side with the cable from the front.

You can turn the heater on let the car warm up a few minutes and keep te coolant topped off till the thermostat opens then bleed the air out with the bleeder by the thermostat housing.
This may help to find the coolant problem.

The DIY i read didnt have any pics. So i got on Youtube and looked at a video and thats how the one i seen was set up. Choke coil towards the front.

I guess ill have to fix that.

Im afraid that if i let it run much more that its going to damage the engine.

Thats a progresive carb like the oem so there is a primary and secondary barrel venturi whch should line up with the manifolds pri & sec. The way you have it , thats opposite.
The only way water can get in cc is head gasket or intake ( or cracked block). You could bypass the cooolant lines going thru the intake manifold to eliminate that intake side. I would hook those back after diagnoses though cuz it helps warm the carb up.

Remember that the hole you plugged off with quick steel is the Inlet port, the outlet port was in the back of the old carb. What did you do with that hose? Its OK if you just plug it off, but don't connect it to any port in the new carb. Just guessing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Buzo

Remember that the hole you plugged off with quick steel is the Inlet port, the outlet port was in the back of the old carb. What did you do with that hose? Its OK if you just plug it off, but don't connect it to any port in the new carb. Just guessing.

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I also believe that you have a coolant line hooked to the vacuum tap on the rear of the manifold. Fix that up and you should be good.
Good luck.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by greentee76

I also believe that you have a coolant line hooked to the vacuum tap on the rear of the manifold. Fix that up and you should be good.
Good luck.

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It wasnt. It does kinda look like that in the pic though. I stuck a vacuum cap in it backwards to plug it off temporarily. Now i have everything cleaned up and everything thats not needed is gone.

I found that the quick steel had a pin hole in it. Im glad I found it. Now it runs really good. It took a while to dry out the exhaust.

Thanks for your help everyone.

Ok...been through this already. Except, did not find diy thread till after I towed my 89 dx to the mechanic 3 blocks away. BTW I called up WEBER tech support, and he just repeated check your vacuum lines like a broken flippin record. I know this thread is inactive at this point, but for future viewers, here is my experience:

Examine stock carb gasket for 3/8"ish hole, this is the one that everyone says to plug. My mechanic claims he did not plug the hole(BAD idea), says no problem, and just used the stock carb gasket in stead of the FU**ing bottom weber adapter gasket supplied in the 32/36 kit (why weber? numbskulls you do not mention plugging the port in the 89 accord kit instructions!!!).

But 8 months later while leaving work (now), the brake pedal went all the way in like with a blown head gasket, and billows of anti freeze smoke came out. I drove a mile, seeing if the car would over heat...It did not, indicating nothing wrong with the head gasket. It had no smoke after a mile, and drove fine. No oil in coolant or visaversa. Only 2-3 tablespoons antifreeze missing from reservoir MAXiMUM.

I will rip it apart tonight & JBWELD the hole, because i speculate that the stock carb gasket (in lieu of the bottom weber gasket) will let coolant seep in if enough vacuum occurs in the intake manifold from the brake booster. A car warming up would not be making full intake manifold pressure for the brake booster, and may have attempted to suck air through the blocked (by a carb gasket)coolant hole.

I will post again if this is not the case. Can anyone comment as to my suspicions & speculations?

Martin

Pardon my stupidity, but what does the pedal going to floor have to do with a blown head gasket?

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Originally Posted by Pulpfunction

Pardon my stupidity, but what does the pedal going to floor have to do with a blown head gasket?

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It just does! Probably because the intake manifold pressure gets too low & the brake booster can't reload.
My experience:
1) blew head gasket with stock everything @ cylinder 1, k&n filter, and obx header. Rebuilt with new hg, all good. 6 months goes by.
2)hooked up 32/36, car would not start/ barely started. Called weber tech. Weber tech said check vacuum lines. Towed to mechanic (2 blocks), he couldn't figure it out in 2 days, I found during that time the intake manifold coolant hole. Told mechanic. He just put a new gasket in that covered the hole. $200 even though i solved my own problem (he did the work). This is before I found 3 geez, found the coolant hole thread off an 86 civic thread or smthng. another 6 months go by
3)leaving work parking lot; brake pedal sank to floor; billows of smoke. Drove car home. Turns out that gasket he put in couldn't plug the hole completely. jb welded hole with a flat head & replaced carb gasket under adapter plates. 1 year goes by
4)Hit 95 on freeway; after a little time at 70mph, The car will not accelerate & is barely able to hold 70. I pull off at my destination & car idles like a$$. Get home; all valves loose after a year & headgasket blown between cylinders 2 & 3. I found this after driving to my mechanic who found my intake gasket shot, replaced it, & charged me. Then he said something was wrong with the head. I drove it home & replaced the HG, found no warpage on block or head, installed a weber 38/38, webcam regrind cam, pacesetter header (obx sleeves always leaked & drove me crazy!!!), and bisi springs.1 year & 7 months go by
5)today i found some sweet steam again coming constantly from the exhaust. Steam is only noticeable at night & in mornings. Coolant drains from reservoir after 1-2 months of use. This sucks; I will pull the carb asap & then the headgasket if I have to again. Perhaps re-using head bolts is a no-no? New ones are so damn difficult to find. I also learned a trick from this forum that if you re-use the bolts, you over torque them by a certain amount which I did.

Your car should run super great with those mods!
Have the head professionally checked and valve seating checked ( lapped)
Get a graphite hg, clean the head bolt holes out with shop vac. If youre keeping the car a while get the arp ( miata) studs put in and do away with bolts.