Less talk more pics. GO GO GO!!!
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Less talk more pics. GO GO GO!!!
WHOA WHOA WHOA.....Calm down clam down LOL.
Just some random pics of the dizzy plugs i added to the existing harness. Gotta run the vtec wire and thats all she wrote. then my LC-1 wiring which is going to be cake.
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/29d6f917.jpg
P06 still non-vtec but going to add vtec. already ordered the diode.
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/0f9e0acc.jpg
Obd1 dizzy plug soldered in to the accord harness.
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/2cdda485.jpg
Then the Coil wires soldered in. Money.
Damn fu I wet my pants! Lol So that's the plug in play harness huh.
Don't think that was "plug and play".. He had to solder everything.. right?
Yea I had to basically deloom an added what I wanted . Not a plug an play at all. Only thing close to that is the jumper harness Which is still not a plug an play. It's easy if u have the schematics .
My soldering skills improved by alot lol. Looks clean. That an I have a bad ass soldering gun.
good work man
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rendon LX-i
Deff the most important thing in soldering lol. I need to get me another one... Sigh...
But good looking work there man. Imma have to do that when I get my new whip ;)
Thanks broQuote:
Originally Posted by AccordB20A
Soldering gun is key Mofo gets the wire hot fast lol . Flux makes a big difference to . Took me awhile to tackle a wiring plan.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tdurr
lol yeaaa good flux works too.
Well good news ....Buddy at school having troubles timing his b16a with his ITR cams....so he asked me if i would trade for my b16a cams ...............I was like just straight across he like yea. IM like DEAL LMFAO.
damn bro! you are haulin ass on this swap! keep it up!
Lol I'm trying
Did alittle today not much but I was figuring out the sensors. Well I taught that the sensors would be the same but there not as in engine temp sensor the rest should. I'm also took out my stock fan switch plug out an the fan plug it self. What I'm going to be doing is tap and die the civic rad. So I have it like stock an I won't have to run extended wire behind the bAy. Here some pics.
Stock b16 ECT sensor(on the left) an stock accord ECT(on the right) well it screws into the head no problem so easy money.
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/1331c2b1.jpg
Screwing in the accord ECT sensor into PR-3 head.
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/da03a5e9.jpg
This is the b16 head. Looks great. Still going to get it sent in for valve job an new valve stems.
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/7a634e2b.jpg
Here is where I Rounted the stock fan sensor plug an fan plug. (had them in the inner fender tied down since I knew I was going to be doing this soon an that time was now
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/fa2400cc.jpg
Well not much but hey I'm doing a bit at a time. Every detail counts cause I know when I needed the info I couldnt find it.
Might as well get bigger valves, stiffer springs, and retainers while you're at it, imo.
Nay . Itr valve train. New stems
Meh, just a thought.. good shit on ITR valve train atleast thought :thumbsup:
i would still get the itr stuff spec'ed out to see they are within limit
There aways in limit lol. Today I helped a friend at skool install LMA's from a h22 into his b16 head. Was simple am way better then the B16 stock ones.
Lma's?
lost motion assembly :) some bullshit vtec heads have. my pr3 head has done fuck all kms and is in new condition lol. paid enough for it
B16 have hydro LMA's an h22 have a spring type. Always stiff no play.
well what does it do? spill the beans
with a spring, how is it better then a hydro assembly and whats all involved in the swap?
Sounds gay
well a spring would theorhetically never need to be rebuilt (or at least less often than a hydro). but this could be argued. people don't seem to give it a lot of thought as if ones better than the other unless they're using a highlift cam. the extra lift is what wears out the old style (hydro) or prolonged use (high mileage). honda released the spring type later with a larger contact patch to increase protection to the cam. you can buy an even stronger spring type or you can go with the later model spring types from the itr/gsr and or h22.
Pat said it pretty detailed. Basically applying more pressure. But what we did is just took off the rockers an took the old LMA's out put a .40 thousands washer for the base depends on your wear on the cam. Slid in the h22 LMA's . It's up to you if want to do em. To MEE it felt way better an it's alot more quite also. Vtec sounded smooth.
Well I got me a 99 si p30 intake manifold. I have to drill a hole for the IAt since it's blank lol. I'm looking for a h22 tb but if not I'll get a omni 70mm
Pat said it pretty detailed. Basically applying more pressure. But what we did is just took off the rockers an took the old LMA's out put a .40 thousands washer for the base depends on your wear on the cam. Slid in the h22 LMA's . It's up to you if want to do em. To MEE it felt way better an it's alot more quite also. Vtec sounded smooth.
Well I got me a 99 si p30 intake manifold. I have to drill a hole for the IAt since it's blank lol. I'm looking for a h22 tb but if not I'll get a omni 70mm
What year did Honda switch to the spring type LMAs? Sorry to be off topic, but I've been wondering WTF is going on with the ticking in my girlfriend's GSR on startup... I thought it sounded like hydraulic lifters (like my Miata used to do), but didn't realize there were any hydraulic valvetrain components until this thread got my curiosity peaked.
They come in a h22a4 from 97/98 prelude.
i believe for the b16/itr/gsr the b16 first received them in the 99-00 revision. I'm not sure that the GSR ever had a redesign but you can buy aftermarket or use the h22 LMA's.
my d16z6 had lma noise. i realized it after i had already swapped back to a non-vtec head which is a bummer but i didn't like the whole mini-me concept anyway.
Well I decided to rebuild my head on my own . The deck is straight as a arrow check via straight bar "snap on" is within spec.
The tool I bought is so nice. Euroexport valve spring removal too for h an b series vtec heads on or off car
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/bbcfdbcd.jpg
Here I'm screwing down the spring. So simple yet easy
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/4d586ec9.jpg
Before
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/f5c866b8.jpg
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/6a086419.jpg
After
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/72391101.jpg
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/cb0b28ca.jpg
Outcome new stems an valve stems supertech.
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/c515b204.jpg
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/50b41110.jpg
If you see the old pic of he head it was good but it took me 4 hrs to clean this thing an valve seats where in great shape.
Now I need to order head studs, an lsv kit. Tranny I'm looking for a good deal. I might go hydro but depends .
that mating surface on the head could use a nice cleaning still.
Yea I have to use a buffer type wheel. I wont do that till I put it on
What size are those valves?
I'd be tempted to do a full head skim just to make sure it's flat unless you've gone over 100% to check with the right tools. Certainly would be a bit carefull using a buffer on it.
I think you could gain a nice increase in flow with some work on the throats into the valve seats, and having the seats cut with a 1mm seat and have the valve matched and backcut to suit. Wouldn't cost much to do either.
Have you got a pic of the throats or ports at all?
Did a fuild test on each valve used a snap on straight edge to see what's the max clearance an it was in spec by far. Tools where provide by my school which I'm attending . I don't know the valve size but there in incredible shape. Head was in working order when I got it. I just wanted to clean things up. Jdm b16a heads are better then any head beside the c5 head which is the same but slighty ported not much. I'll upgrade the LMA's later an do th itr valve train down the road.
No pics I just snap shot when I had it mostly together. The throats where good as well. The fuild test was nice. Did it before an after which I had some loss in cc but that was due to carbon build up . But after clean an hot taking the head did some grinding in the throats not much just to take the debri out mostly out of the exhaust side. The intake side was super clean.
good progress. i wish i had to time to tare down my motor but my car got kicked out of my uncles house and i needed to move it so thats why i had to do it man.
Well a your swap so now I have to hurry lol
Looking good Josh. All the cool kids are going b-series now! hhaha.
We will have to have a big west coast meet, or at least NW meet one of these days, maybe near the end of summer or early fall.
Sounds good. I should be done by then. Thanks you also.
yeah i want to take this kind of pic again
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/102_0038.jpg
O snaps I agree . That's sexy lol
i would of already been done with my lsv an on the road but shit happens so im on a hold for funds. But Thanks to messy ive gottan alot of shit cleared up.
anyways i just wanted to say everything is going as planned. Expect updates soon
good news! haha
Good to hear Josh, keeping tuned in for updates, good luck.
:ninja:
i would use the pictures that you have taken and send them to innovative to have them adjust the mounting holes. At least at that point there will be "bolt-in" B series mounts, now just for a company to make correct axles for the swap......
I agree bit for axles is not hard you need the 89 lude left axles an 90-93 teg pass axle with a 1gen b16a mid shaft . All is perfect fitmeants. Im going to bore out the holes on the tranny mount so I don't have to weld it. I will send a photo to them concerning the problem.
Once this person cough cough gets some stuff of me cough cough I can be on my way to completing my project lol
are YS1 gearboxes quite easy to find over there, how much do they go for?!
250-300 I found one in Portland that was rebuild an the guy wants 275Usd
shhh....Quote:
Originally Posted by Rendon LX-i
Are you trying to avoid welding the transmission mount? I would recommend against that, there is a lot of weight and power going against that one spot. Keep in mind there are no TQ, or front mounts to help with the weight distribution and TQ distribution. I only used the bolts to line it up, then welded that bad boy on.
it's not like you'll ever want to go back to an A anyway lolz
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rendon LX-i
I have the YS1 trans and its really short. I redline 4th gear in no time and i just have a gsr. its also due to my smaller tires on my rims
yea its more of a auto x tranny or drag. No hyway LOL. ill end up doing the Ls final gear swap.
Will since you experianced it and know how much strain it is going to put down. Ill do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Legend_master
Never LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by stat1K
^^ Yea welding is a good idea for sure on the trans mount. I had my buddy weld it in, and wouldnt have done it otherwise.
Also, my S1 trans was short enough on the highway, I can't imagine what a YS1 would be like... that must suck!
S1 is the shortest gearing of them all, i dont think the YS1 is as bad
Well then... hahaha. Maybe when I get my exhaust fixed it wont suck so bad on the highway, but right now its so damn loud at "highway" speeds.
Ys1 is pretty good or a b16 tranny which idk what the code is for those lol.
Found it....can't wait to see a vid of it running.
i should be running by jan. I have a good aid check coming Lol.
Well now I'm thinking going itbs. Either gsxr or cbr . Cbr have the same tps which make it simple to reformat on Crome . It seems cheaper the. Buying Itr intake an tb.
Honestly ITBs are awesome for all motor, but you have to really invest in a full setup. Fully built head, and block plus an amazing tune. If you don't have that then you are wasting your time. You can get an AEBS intake manifold (identical to the skunk 2, or type R), and be ready to go with a solid reliable setup for half the price.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rendon LX-i
Umm. Well head is just just Itr valve train an I'm looking for Itr cams. I'm trying to go all motor but if not boost is going to be fun. But ill just get it I found some gsx r 1000s an cbr 935 or something like that for 60 shipped. I'm looking for a DIY type setup which I'm good at. I completey agree thou with your statmeant . But I'll just get it since it's so cheap to do.
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/4dcfc948.jpg
B18b1 block honed decked . Ready for some lsv baby
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/17d24063.jpg
anymore progress??
no girdle on that b18b block?? hmm i wonder if my b20b has one or not. will be required for extra revs
good to see ur engines getting there maaateee
yes sir. Ill post pics as i go. Ill be hitting it hard here soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by 89jdmaccord
nope no gridle. not really needed. alot of lsv setups didnt have gridle. all that matters is that you swap out the rod bolts since there the same a a d series which cant withstand 8-9k revs. Get arp rod bolts and you can rev high as a gsr all day. Gridle just adds that extra security which is all up to you if you want to add it. Im not cause you would have to have it all redone at the machine shop and have a bigger oil clearance. B16a dont have a gridle and they rev to 8.5 all day its all in the rod bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by AccordB20A
to awnser your question on the b20. NO there is no gridle on those motors. Only gsr's have gridles. ive been reading alot of lsv b20v setups an no gridle is needed for high revs just rod bolts cause they tend to loosen up and stretch out cause they cant withstand the rotating mass that is put on them. Save yourself the money an get some arp bolts total 50 bucks.
Sweet!! Can't wait. How much whp ya thinkin?
I'm about to venture into the b series motors my self. I'm soon buying a 92 civic 4 door that has a b18b1 in it and the blocks bad. I've been on my search and am prolly just goin to put another B18B1 in It. So someday if I can throw a B18C in it and run vtech I'll be figuring all this shit out too .
178ish who 200hp is my goal all motor
2 days son!
lol
lol i got a few more things before i start my posting again...
was wondering why you didnt just go with the B18C5 r motor. Already got 190hp and you can get one shiped to your door with tranny and ecu for between 3000 and 4000. Just wondering!!!!!!!!
Lol that's 3-4 grand I can push more hp an tq for less then that . B16a head is the same as a c5 Im going go have stronger bottom end an all in all it's going to be cheaper regradless . I ain't paying 4gs lol. You still have to consender wiring still an obd1 . I'll be spending less then 1500 since I got a free b16a complete. If I wanted to spend 4-5 gs I would of gotta. A eg with a b20vtec since they sell for 4 gs local.
yeah, that's waaaay too much money if you ask me!!! I'd much rather just throw the b20 in and boost it :D
bewst.
bewst 0wnz y0!!!!!
Can I haz a free b16?... lol... need one of those
Lol. I pretty much got everything to get the motor together . I need a dizzy clutch flywheel an tranny.
This is what I got down so far
B16a head complete overhauled.
Pr3 pistons pressed on ls rods.
Arp main rod bolts
Acl race bearings a bit loose for power
Hasting rings
Golden eagle head studs
Golden eagle ls vtec kit
TDM big tube tri y header
70mm onimi tb
So motor pretty much done lol.
xenocron FTW!
you still need to convert to OBD1
Nope . All wired. I did that along time ago bro. When I pulled the a20 out I did the wiring.
well its all good then. cant wait to see it in person!
it will be sweet.
I <3 Xenocron.
i love CROME FTW LOL.
Josh let me know when you done so i can go visit ya and see it in person.
Well do bro. Well have a few lol
Little update. I just bought a Y1 cable trans. Bought a 90-93 Integra mid shaft. I need a 86-89 Integra pass shaft. Im going to try the 89 lude driver. since i have it might as well. Ill will be putting together my motor soon. I cant wait. lol
hey Rendon you could buy your axels from innovative mounts http://www.innovativemounts.com/ thats where im buying mine from i called them yesterday about the mounts and i asked them about axels and they told me they could make me a set.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rendon LX-i
Ummm instresting! Thanks. Bro I'll have to call.
Here som pics . I don't have alot I'll have to go home an takes some of all the other crap. This is so you know I'm not PLAYING. Lol
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/f7d43047.jpg
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/a2e4e6e1.jpg
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/ba8eec03.jpg
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...i/60cd5288.jpg
Hytech header 2 1/2 outlet
Pr3 pistons on ls rods. Resized an arp bolts
Valve cover cnc cut for cam gears. No sloppy shit. Looks like oem .
I have alot of crap not shown. To be continued
wait, no boost???
Hold on .. lol What block are you putting in ? A B18B1 ?
Im really thinking of doing this swap ..So did u use the 89 accord stock ecu or was it from a intergra?
All motor for now. im wanting a top mount so im saving my pennys.Quote:
Originally Posted by gfrg88
ill be using the b18b1 correct. BUT ill be using a B16a head. So ls Vtec. I took the pr4 pistons off. and put the pr3 pistons on. Ill be around 11:5.1ish close to 12 comp ratio. Going to be a beast.Quote:
Originally Posted by -$MOKIN-
Yeah, that thing should def move! Are you gonna keep that CR when you boost??? I would :)
keep that cr! lol i wanna do high comp and boost.
