B18B1 Build and Swap - Rendon LX-I

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Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy

Can't wait to see the beast in Portland! And get a ride?

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Originally Posted by AccordB20A

so good to see this actually going now (Y)

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Of course John. An tell me about it Aaron lol

I always love ur car.... When it runs:tongue:Jk:beer:

Lmfao

time to update my thread. lol well its come to end as for the SWAP plenty more to do but ill be doing a how to very detailed which was a idea john gave me. help some future youngsters swap out there 3gen. lol

so now whats left to do is

type r calipers and legend/mini cooper rotors
rear break upgrade rotors/calipers
repaint car
install prelude rear seat to match lude interior
k sports will be needed.

ill will be doing the odyssey pc680mjt MJT is metal jacket so i wont need that special holder ill use the jackit as a holder cheaper,cleaner. getting rid of the rear batter. going for the clean look oem style. no more rice bs lol.

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Originally Posted by Rendon LX-i

time to update my thread. lol well its come to end as for the SWAP plenty more to do but ill be doing a how to very detailed which was a idea john gave me. help some future youngsters swap out there 3gen. lol

so now whats left to do is

type r calipers and legend/mini cooper rotors
rear break upgrade rotors/calipers
repaint car
install prelude rear seat to match lude interior
k sports will be needed.

ill will be doing the odyssey pc680mjt MJT is metal jacket so i wont need that special holder ill use the jackit as a holder cheaper,cleaner. getting rid of the rear batter. going for the clean look oem style. no more rice bs lol.

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What's your compression? the PC680MJT is a 220CCA battery, which, yes brand new will do the job. But you hear all these guys talking about "Make sure you keep it charged or it wont start your car." is a bunch of BS. Its a gel battery, it will stay charged fine on its own. The reason it won't start your car is because it is VASTLY under-rated for most of us.

Dont forget you rear bumper :D

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Originally Posted by Rendon LX-i

Yea dizzy was giving to me cause of check engine light . Tdc code never came up. Till a couple days after. I installed shielded wire which why I was getting code 8,9. Was getting code 17 as well I stacked 4 1.5k together lol to get 6k. Hopefully that fixes that problem. Car still does not fire after it died checked for spark no spark. My wiring is correct or the car would of not ran. Codes popped up after going the first full wot but I did check an everything was up to my standards .

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Did you parallel or sereies the resistors. Series you will get 6k +/- from 4 1.5k resistors. But parellel you will only get .375 or there about depending on the +/- range but close the that number. Which are you looking for?

Actually a strut is the alternet when it comes to coilover suspensions as it plays double duty in mounting the upper part of the suspension also. A true coilover is only a shock and spring and was introduced long before the strut. Oh sorry to but in Rendon but damn nice job on the car. Cant wait to see it in action.

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Originally Posted by 2drSE-i

What's your compression? the PC680MJT is a 220CCA battery, which, yes brand new will do the job. But you hear all these guys talking about "Make sure you keep it charged or it wont start your car." is a bunch of BS. Its a gel battery, it will stay charged fine on its own. The reason it won't start your car is because it is VASTLY under-rated for most of us.

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Specs say its 550cca? Lol either way its a bad ass battery. Should be plenty

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Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6

Dont forget you rear bumper :D

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Already got that lol

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Originally Posted by hammer3rd

Did you parallel or sereies the resistors. Series you will get 6k +/- from 4 1.5k resistors. But parellel you will only get .375 or there about depending on the +/- range but close the that number. Which are you looking for?

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I just put em in series which worked but I just. Swapped clusters an called it a day no more cel.

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Originally Posted by hammer3rd

Actually a strut is the alternet when it comes to coilover suspensions as it plays double duty in mounting the upper part of the suspension also. A true coilover is only a shock and spring and was introduced long before the strut. Oh sorry to but in Rendon but damn nice job on the car. Cant wait to see it in action.

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Car is already in action bro . I posted links

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Originally Posted by 2drSE-i

What's your compression? the PC680MJT is a 220CCA battery, which, yes brand new will do the job. But you hear all these guys talking about "Make sure you keep it charged or it wont start your car." is a bunch of BS. Its a gel battery, it will stay charged fine on its own. The reason it won't start your car is because it is VASTLY under-rated for most of us.

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Compression is 11:5.1

Josh, car is looking great! Glad to see it's up and running and you can enjoy it now... The PC680 is rated at 170cca from Odyssey... http://www.odysseybattery.com/battspecs.html

So, I'm not sure if you'd have any issues with it. I have been running a PC925 for a few years now and it has been really good and I have a pretty decent stereo too.

Is the 925 same size?

No Josh, the 925 is a bit shorter in height, but probably double the width.

Updated 1st page on a how to.

Little update. As you know I'm using my stock pump which is not enought for high revs I got a habit getting in it an just dont want to risk damaging nothing so I put her up for the winter early.

Going to install a fuel pump relay kit an getting a fuel pump 255lph both from xenocron . Putting the fuel pump relay would give me full 14 volts which not only would I get true voltage to the pump but also prolong the life of the pump by supplying it with the voltage it was suppose have. Ill do a how to on that so for those that want to have the info an pics needed.

I tested the power output which I was getting 11.35v (when I had a no start) cranking an cranking an finally figured it out. it was my pump . So I think that reading was from the battery Beening low plus it's in the back .

I'm also putting the battery back up front just don't like the setup I have.

Dyno yet?

Nope. Can't afford that right now

It's not that much.. I'll paypal you the amount. I want to see that 200+whp on paper....

Lol it is 200 hp . Feels like it an tuner said its 200 by his Experiance . Ill get it dynod. Most Ls Vtec setups like mine are 220-227. Running 13.5

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Originally Posted by Rendon LX-i

Lol it is 200 hp . Feels like it an tuner said its 200 by his Experiance . Ill get it dynod. Most Ls Vtec setups like mine are 220-227. Running 13.5

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Not doubting it. I meant the dyno isn't that much... I'm just a sucker for shit like that. I want more vids, pics, dyno, and shit.


You sticking n/a, or boosting later on?

N/a for now. It's feels boosted lol. Hopefully next meet I can do it in Seattle. There is no dynos here. One we had got shut down

Seems like a have a ground issue. When I have lights on heater going an stereo going its fine till I stop then it idle fine then drop then pick up then drop stumble then pick up. This was going in with my a20 as well I taught it was just the motor. Need to do a voltage drop an see what's going on. I have good grounds. Harness ground is on the intake runnier . That's the know ground I think that is shitty.

Performed a voltage drop. I had a good ground. the engine bay harness ground wasnt great. was getting .2 which wasnt up to my standards lol. moved that ground to the alt bracket an put valve cover ground to the strut tower. best ground ever.

fixed my rear sensors and no more lamp out light in dash.

Replaced fuel sender unit with a used one and same issue with the bouncy fuel needle. Ill just leave it lol.

Can a moderator sticky this in the general engine swaps? I believe this is a good thread that qualifies. Josh has updated his first page to include everything he used to make the swap possible. It is also a very current swap.

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