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Thread: obd-1 conversion

  1. #1
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    Exclamation obd-1 conversion

    OK .. So, yesterday, i did an OBD1 conversion on a 89 Accord LXi. The swap was made simple by an "already modified" distributor - but honestly, that where the ball stops rolling.

    For the swap, ANY OBD1 distributor will work, but the Tabs must be cut off an re-welded (or any other type of method you know for reattaching metal pieces together). From what i understand, the CAM key is no longer at TDC after you realign the Mounting tabs (not first-hand information). Because of this, each Cam Key is going to need to be re-drilled in different spots (from stock), and drilling location is unique to how YOU mounted the Distibutor on YOUR engine. I cannot say "redrill the cam key here, and here" because those holes still might not be where your engine is at TDC. Again, redrilling is going to be unique to your setup, on your own Distributor, depending on how you decided to relocate the timing adjustment/Mounting tabs. DO REMEMBER -- Once you redrill the Cam key, and reset its postion to the correct TDC, firing order is going to be altered!!! (The Stock Firing order, 1, 3, 4, 2 will remain, but will have to be rotated a specific way on the distributor; again - unique to YOUR setup, for how YOU remounted the distributor; use common sense. *See below for more information - *thegreatdane gets credit for this edit). -- During the swap i performed, this issue was not outlined, and i had to use my brain to figure that out for myself. Dont make the same mistake, it WILL cause unnecessary headaches; believe me.

    Ok .. after you have successfully setup your distributor, you have arrived at the simpler part.

    Run 3 strands of wire to the inside of the car, under the carpet, over to the ECU (under the seat) It would be best if 2 of the wires were shielded, preventing unnecessary radio frequencies (emitted by the wires) from interfering with surrounding Audio equipment wires (such audio wires would have to be in VERY close proximity for this to happen); so using shielded wire is not THAT serious. -- For reasons of making it easier to identify, and repair broken wires later, i would recommend running a Blue, Green, and Yellow wire. Once in the engine bay, run these wires to the Distributor.

    Ok .. Distributor wiring. Cut off the Plug from the OLD distributor, because we are going to reuse the Plug, and get ahold of an 8 pin Distributor plug for your NEW OBD1 dist. as well (Harness Side) -- we are going to make a Conversion Harness.

    Here is the pinout -- OBD1 Plug >> OBD0 Plug (4Pin)

    Orange to Orange
    Orange Blue to Orange Blue
    White to White
    White Blue to White Blue


    Simple enough -- Plug it in!

    Now, the BLUE/GREEN wire on the OBD 1 side, connect that to the GREEN wire we ran from in the car, and connect the BLUE/YELLOW wire to the BLUE wire we ran from in the car. Simple Pinout form of what i just said is below:

    OBD1 Dist Plug >> Wires we ran from in the car

    Blue/Green to Green
    Blue/Yellow to Blue


    Still with me?

    On that SAME 8 pin plug that we have made all these connections so far (6 to be exact), there are still 2 wires. Both of these wires will vary in color depending on what car the Distributor came from. I will outline the most common.

    *The yellow/green wire is the SAME wire as white. --- white and yellow/green are the SAME thing.

    *The black/white wire is the SAME wire as green. --- green and white/black are the SAME thing.


    --- Distributors WITHOUT Black/White (green) wire coming out of the Dist, have an INTERNAL coil, and you do not need to run an external coil on your car -- .. your life is made simple. If your Dist has a 7-pin plug instead of the 8 pin, you have an INTERNAL Ignition coil, so disregard the External Coil connection proccess.

    OK! ... connect the yellow wire we ran from inside the car, to the yellow/green (or white) wire on the dist.

    And finally, (for external coils), run the black/white (or green) wire from the dist, to the NEGATIVE side of your ignition coil.

    In Pinout style -- OBD1 plug >> Wires we ran from in the car:

    Yellow/Green (white) to Yellow
    Black/white (green) to the Negative side of your ignition coil.


    ........

    --There is also a 2 pin plug on the distributor. This plug has a Blue wire, and a Black/yellow wire. Find an original Harness plug, cut it off, and attach it to the blue wire, and black/yellow wire where your original Ignition Coil used to be.

    Blue to Blue
    Black/yellow to black yellow
    -- plug in the Capacitor


    Thats all plug it in! Your distributor is NOW wired up, and ready for action.. only a few steps left!

    ............

    This is where it gets tricky. THE ECU!

    You CAN, and in fact need, go out and buy a OBD0 to OBD1 conversion harness, don't trust that it is correct!! ... The conversion harness which i was intending to use, actually came out of a running Car, the same exact car for that matter, but i still found that the pinout was incorrect. Fortunately for me, i had a harness which i had made, that had the Stock OBD1 wire colors still intact, and was also pinned out correctly

    When you buy a harness MAKE SURE that these pins are correct, and going to the appropriate wires -

    Plug in your jumper harness and trace back the Orange, Orange/Blue, White, White/Blue, wires on the OBD0 C-plug, and make sure that they correspond to the correct pins on the ECU! The pinout is below:

    OBD1 Side:

    B11-CYP P CYP(#1 piston position) -P Orange, CYP sensor input, n/a
    B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, n/a
    B13-TDC P TDC(top dead ceter) -P Org/Blue, TDC sensor input, n/a
    B14-TDC M TDC -M Wht/Blue, TDC sensor signal, n/a
    B15-CKP P CKP(crank position) -P Blu/Green, CKP Sensor input, n/a
    B16-CKP M CKP -M Blu/yel, CKP Sensor signal, n/a

    -- So, what im saying is - the orange wire from the (OBD0) C-Plug, should go to the pin where the Orange wire should be on the ECU (B11) - If it is NOT --- then REPIN it!! You MUST, if you want the car to start. --- DO the same for the 4 wires i posted above.

    Ok! Good! Now ... Do you recall the 3 wires we ran into the car (the 2 sheilded wires, and the other)?

    You are going to need to connect the Green wire to Pin B15 (OBD1 harness), and connect the Blue wire to Pin B16 (OBD1) harness ... Again, if you forget to do this, then you are SOL and will be stuck with a NO start situation.

    And at last --- the Yellow wire we ran. Connect this wire to pin A21, AND A22 on the OBD1 ECU Plugs.

    A21-ICM Yel/Grn, Ignition Control Module output signal, About 10V KOEO
    A22-Igniter, same as A21


    ............

    OK .. the firing order, in the case of my conversion, was NOT the same as stock. Like i said, after redrilling the Cam Key, the firing order had been adjusted 90* from stock. After figuring this out, and readjusting the Firing order (by swiching moving the wires), the car started up beautifully.

    STOCK firing order (looking at the Dist Cap) is:

    1 3
    2 4

    The MODIFIED Cam Key firing order (while looking at the Cap) is:

    2 1
    4 3

    Keep this in mind for if/when you need to troubleshoot your OBD swap. The best way to see which where Cyl #1 is on your engine after redrilling an d mounting the Distributor is to Take off the Cap, and rotate the Engine to (cyl #1) TDC. Take note of where the Rotor is facing, and that is your new Number one plug on the Cap. The firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2, going CLOCKWISE from that plug.

    -----

    Well, thats it, Plug in your ecu, and see if your car starts!!

    I have NO (helpful) pictures now, but hopefully i will soon. What would you like to have pictures of, what would help you understand what i have written?

    TaDa!



    In the above picture, this vehicles firing order is INCORRECT! Please dont mimic it, your car will not start.





    Re-Chipped his ECU ---

    Last edited by rudeludenotmean; 10-09-2007 at 01:30 PM.



  2. #2
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    OBD1 Dist Pinout is as follows:

    Wire Color >> Function:

    Orange - CYP P - Cylinder #1 Position Sensor
    White - CYP M - "
    Orange/Blue - TDC P - Top Dead Center Sensor
    White/Blue - TDC - "
    Blue/Green - CKP P - Crank Postion Sensor
    Blue/Yellow - CKP M - "
    Yellow/Green (white) - Igniter Input (from ECU pin A21 & A22)
    Black/White (green) - Ignition Coil Output (Ground)(-)

    Blue - Tachometer Outout (To Tach/Gauge)
    Black/Yellow - Battery Positive (B+, 12V)
    Last edited by rudeludenotmean; 10-06-2007 at 11:21 AM.

  3. #3

    LX-incredible's Avatar
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    Great info! Now If I could only find a distributor... What ECU did you go with?
    88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
    Quote Originally Posted by stat1K View Post
    who is tim and where can i get naughty pictures of him?
    CARDONE SUCKS.

  4. #4
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    To avoid confusion let me just point out that the firing order itself (1-3-4-2) will still remain the same disregarding any key redrilling. You will just rotate it relative to the cam key rotation.

    Not using shielded wires can also not be recommended!

    But it's good to see that someone finally writes something about this conversion, good job on that.


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  5. #5
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    Thank you for your input! (edited Original post)

    However ... Sheilded wire is "semi" difficult for the average user to come by. The only other GOOD alternative, would be to run a twisted pair of wire for the CKP sensor.

    Reason: If one wire receives radio interference, the other wire, who is twisted around the first, will receive the same amount of interference as the wave hits the strands - thus canceling the interference out.

    Furthermore -

    The CKP system creates its own AC current which is already invulnerable to radio interference, infact, it creates radio interference, which is why its shielded when ran in the wire loom; to reduce interference in the OTHER wires.

    If you run a a seperate line, outside of the wire loom, as you will need to, sheilding of the wire is not as neccessary (if at all) because there are no other wires close enough to it that need protecting.

    Again, the shielded wires are not THAT serious.

    (the Original post has been modified to reflect this)
    Last edited by rudeludenotmean; 10-06-2007 at 03:53 PM.

  6. #6
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    Thats Just the meat of the conversion, you still have to repin a conversion harness to get every thing else to work. e.g. map sensor, oxygen sensor(s), TPS, check engine light, injectors, purge soleniod, and several other things

    Pgm-fi conversion 4-16-05
    OBD1 11-25-06
    Turbo 2-26-07
    Tuned with eCtune 239whp 237wtq

  7. #7
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    I didnt ...

    I had made a conversion harness for a EF to OBD1, and the only re-pinning that needed to be done from the harness i built was for the CYP and CKP, and TDC. No other repinning was neccessary.

    If you buy a OBD0 to OBD1 88-91 Civic harness, those should be the only pins needed to be changed around, as outlined in the original post:

    "Plug in your jumper harness and trace back the Orange, Orange/Blue, White, White/Blue, wires on the OBD0 C-plug, and make sure that they correspond to the correct pins on the ECU! The pinout is below:

    OBD1 Side:

    B11-CYP P CYP(#1 piston position) -P Orange, CYP sensor input, n/a
    B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, n/a
    B13-TDC P TDC(top dead ceter) -P Org/Blue, TDC sensor input, n/a
    B14-TDC M TDC -M Wht/Blue, TDC sensor signal, n/a
    B15-CKP P CKP(crank position) -P Blu/Green, CKP Sensor input, n/a
    B16-CKP M CKP -M Blu/yel, CKP Sensor signal, n/a

    -- So, what im saying is - the orange wire from the (OBD0) C-Plug, should go to the pin where the Orange wire should be on the ECU (B11) - If it is NOT --- then REPIN it!! You MUST, if you want the car to start. --- DO the same for the 4 wires i posted above."


    ---- But ----

    The car has a known CEL for O2 Heater circuit; didnt pull the code, but i know thats why its on.

    Your saying that the other sensors are incorrectly pinned as well? It really doesnt make much sense, seeing as how the car is running fine, and the ECU is NOT in limp mode. CEL Does its thing on initial Key turn like its supposed to, no CEL's until startup ... Heated O2.

    However, because of what you have written, i will verify the pins, again ... ... ... ... I really dont think its wrong, however. The car would have extreme drivability problems if major sensors like the Map sensor, TPS, Oxy, and INJECTORS were pinned wrong on the harness.
    Last edited by rudeludenotmean; 10-06-2007 at 05:27 PM.

  8. #8
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    I don't remember how much work I had to do to repin but i'm just saying that they need to be verified before the ecu is plugged in that way you don't fry something in the ecu or other parts. I might have just done more work on my harness since I tried to retain all of the stock wiring and use old/spare/unused for the OBD1 wires for the new wires. But its easier for you to say what exactly needs to be done since you've done it recently. I know i removed 8 to 10 wires from my conversion harness since they where not used.

    Pgm-fi conversion 4-16-05
    OBD1 11-25-06
    Turbo 2-26-07
    Tuned with eCtune 239whp 237wtq

  9. #9
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    There ARE several wires on the harness which are not used (the conversion harness), but they will not effect ANYTHING in the ECU if they are left on the conversion harness. Same goes for the unused wires on the Chassis side ... nothing will be affected.

    Besides that, its MY ECU hes running now so .. if it frys its my fault, haha.

    I've retained the original harness, Ran 3 wires, and actually pinned into the OBD0 harness for a COMPLETELY stock look Gotta love it .. when we update with pics .. that will tell all.

    There are ZERO drivability issues with the car. i'm certain that nothing else must be repinned, but i always welcome criticism if it will benefit this guide.
    Last edited by rudeludenotmean; 10-06-2007 at 05:36 PM.

  10. #10
    3Geez Veteran ghettogeddy's Avatar
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    ha rudelude so ur up to build me one when my motor is out the shop right lol
    oh and it was nice meting u and ill have the pics of the harness up soon

  11. #11

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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    cool info, thanks for the great post!

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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    Quote Originally Posted by ghettogeddy View Post
    ha rudelude so ur up to build me one when my motor is out the shop right lol
    oh and it was nice meting u and ill have the pics of the harness up soon
    I'm up to repining the harness that your gonna buy after your build is done ... haha

  13. #13
    3Geez Veteran ghettogeddy's Avatar
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    Quote Originally Posted by rudeludenotmean View Post
    I'm up to repining the harness that your gonna buy after your build is done ... haha
    lol
    ight ill let u know
    i might as well go ahead and do it while i do my fi swap then all the harness can be tied together lol just gona have to find someone to do the key re drill and tap welding lol

  14. #14
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    Well, you might have figured out i'm always down for a challenge ... lemme know what you want to do.

    Then next Accord conversion I do shouldn't take more than 3 hours now that I've done it. .... Not including Dist work .. haaha

  15. #15
    LXi User coope's Avatar
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    how is ur car running is it better that way and u should make a conversion harness i'll buy

  16. #16
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    Quote Originally Posted by ghettogeddy View Post
    lol
    ight ill let u know
    i might as well go ahead and do it while i do my fi swap then all the harness can be tied together lol just gona have to find someone to do the key re drill and tap welding lol
    I would run with the FI swap for at least a week before you do the OBD1 swap that way you know that there are no "bugs" with the FI swap.

    Pgm-fi conversion 4-16-05
    OBD1 11-25-06
    Turbo 2-26-07
    Tuned with eCtune 239whp 237wtq

  17. #17
    3Geez Veteran ghettogeddy's Avatar
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    Quote Originally Posted by EricW View Post
    I would run with the FI swap for at least a week before you do the OBD1 swap that way you know that there are no "bugs" with the FI swap.
    well im not swaping it onto a carb motor im doing a full fi motor buying everything brand new lol minus i few hard to get parts like ecu and such lol

  18. #18
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    Why not do it all at once? I really dont see a benefit from swaping to MPFI and THEN switching to OBD1 ...

    Its all the same .. do it all at once.

  19. #19
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    Quote Originally Posted by coope View Post
    how is ur car running is it better that way and u should make a conversion harness i'll buy



    i still need to get it tuned. but overall it runs fine...no more 6850 redline....its 7200 now...i spiked it a lil bit since i got headers installed also and it reves up way quicker. this swap is not for beginners...and it wont do you any good if you dont have supporting mods. my next swap is stage 2 cam and blox intake manifold so i can get rid of EGR...and it will just look cleaner. my numbers should be around 120-130whp

    1989 Honda Accord LX-i
    B18c1 swap since 7/2011
    175whp and 132tq
    Redzone tuned

  20. #20
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    What are the advantages to this?

  21. #21
    3Geez Veteran ghettogeddy's Avatar
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    Quote Originally Posted by BITESIZE View Post
    What are the advantages to this?
    being able to tune the ecu to your specs so things like fuel air flow
    u can use a wide ban to help tune as well

  22. #22
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    Quote Originally Posted by BITESIZE View Post
    What are the advantages to this?





    i just did it so i can get rid of my black box as a former dx owner i never want to see another vac line in my car. the performance view is that now you wont have vacuum advance on the distributor making it electronic....you have more control over the engine...especially if you have serious investment and dont want to blow it up racing or anything. it works as a charm....feels like a high end car since the engine is soo soft and quiet now.

    1989 Honda Accord LX-i
    B18c1 swap since 7/2011
    175whp and 132tq
    Redzone tuned

  23. #23
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    I know it is useful for turboing, but I never have spent time to look into this.

  24. #24
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    Tuning an N/A car is just as useful as tuning a boosted one. Both cars will see gains, in the same, and different ways.

  25. #25
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    Re: DEFINITIVE GUIDE: OBD1 Conversion

    lol

    I remember when I first swapped to obd1 on my hatch. After I took it out for a test drive it felt as i had just given the car a good tune up. Accel was smoothed out and the 7000 rpm redline of the p75 was nice too.

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