Thanks. That was what I thought. I'll just totally rebaseline the thing and give it yet another shot...
Is there something I should look at besides the carb's adjustment and vac, or quit worrying and belive it is the carb
Thanks. That was what I thought. I'll just totally rebaseline the thing and give it yet another shot...
Is there something I should look at besides the carb's adjustment and vac, or quit worrying and belive it is the carb
Well somethings up. Carbs don't usually break, there arn't many moving parts to them. I remember my DGV was a pain when it was cold, but it wasn't quite as bad as you say, and my cam wasn't helping the idle any, esp not cold. I also have a 5speed which makes a fussy engine easier to deal with. One thing I've overlooked is your choke, I've been spending too much time with the DCOEs that don't have them. Make sure thats working and staying on long enough (/ms smacks self on head for forgetting something as simple as that). The motor is going to want to be rich and have a higher idle speed when its cold. Set you're idle when your motor is warm and then see if you can get things right with the choke.
andy
You'll probably think I am a retard but could you refresh me on how to set the weber's choke? I've done it in the past but I want to make sure I was correct in how I did it. Thanks...
Trial and error. I don't know a good way to set it. You loosen the 3 bolts around the choke heater (white plastic thing that the wire connects to). There is a spring inside there. Turn it so it tightens to make the choke stay on longer, and vice versa. The fast idle speed screw is behind the choke heater. Turn it untill the motor is at a speed that it will stay running when cold. Remember that there are 3 steps on the choke cam (what the fast idle screw sits on). The first cam will be the fastest, but it will come off this cam as soon as you step on the pedal after the engine is started. The second step is the one where its going to sit as you try to drive it. You want it on this step when you set the fast idle speed. The 3rd doesn't matter much, thats where it sits when its almost warm.
andy
Thanks. I'll report sucess/failure/lack of change over the weekend. You're really a big help Phy...
Okay a20a1 keeps talking about the DGV carb, everyone agreeing pretty much that the 32/36 is the way to go... The Weber site (as well as the others who sell the weber conversion kits) sell the kit for the 2.0 w/manual trans as the DGEV (electronic choke)... what is the big difference, and how do I GET the DGV instead of the DGEV... and are you all really just shortening DGEV to DGV on your posts because it doesn't matter and they're the same?
I've seen DGV's and DGEV's sold differently on their sites too, so I don't assume that they are the same... my educated guess is the difference in having an electronic choke or not... and how much harder is that to configure or use than the non-electric choke one... I'm looking to get the Weber for my 88 Accord LX... but I don't know the difference/where to get DGV versus DGEV... thanks ahead of time!
-Vers
bury the bach.
http://home.stny.rr.com/versanick/burythetach
you may want to search the ebay for it.
Alex.
ok i wanna get the low down on the weber cuz i almost have the money for a b16a1 but if the weber helps enough i gonna say fuck it to the swap. how much hp and tq will it give me with my current mods(im getting headers in about a week)? how fast are you all running 1/4's with one?? what all do i need besides the "Injection Carburetor Kit" they have on nopi? and do they make the adapter plate for em so i can spray??
Check here for the kit made specifically for the 3G: http://www.carbs.net/Weber/Dataresul...8&Model=ACCORD
Rule #1 - There's always a bastard!
I think the weber 32/36 is like a 15-20% hp increase. It is so nice to have. I don't know how much hp a b16a1 has. Whats the injection carb kit? I'll have to check that out.
I agree with A20A1. Dual carbs would be a lot faster. Plus I like tuning carbs. Easyier for working on.
would 2 of them be like 30-40 Hp??? how much would everything be for qa dual set-up (products, labor, etc...)
and damn on weber...THAT AIR CLEANER IS KILLIN ME AND IS OO CLEAN!!!!!! i want it !!!!!!!!!
and osrry for bein a post whore i forgot what to say............IS THERE WEBER CARBS FOR AUTO TRANNY???
You can use it for an auto you just have to mod the throttle linkage like A20A1 has done.
How do you mod the throttle linkage?Originally posted by Mike's89AccordLX
You can use it for an auto you just have to mod the throttle linkage like A20A1 has done.
Emcees drag their feet across a big naked land/
With an empty bag of seed and a fake shake of hands/
Yeah I got some last words, f**k all of y'all/
Stop writin' raps and go play volleyball/
-Slug
350.00 for the manifold?
How much for the manifold for this weber?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=26436
:-)
89 Accord LX: Fram air Filter, Flipped lid, Bosch Platnum plugs, NGK 8mm wires, Accel coil (8140).
Things to come: Front and rear sway bars off SEi, Front and rear disc brakes off SEi, struts and springs, 4-2-1 manifold, 2.25" custom exaust, 16" rims (ROTA circit 8) with 205/45/R16 rubber (Falkon), clear taillights, new paint (this summer), custom cold air intake with box, oh ya, and fancy blue vacum lines
the b16a1 has 160 stock hp only problem is getting parts for it seeing as how its a jdm motor. i mean carbs are the stone age when it comes to car injection s the way to go you can really do shit to a carb. but i might have to go with one any ways.......
lolololol:lol :lol :lol
Hmm things didn't turn out how I expected it to when I merged a few weber conversion threads... looks like everything is still organized by the time and date it was posted... so a lot of replies might seem totaly misplaced... so that was my fault sorry.
- llia
will a weber 40 dcoe fit on a b20?
But I've seen 32/36 DGV and DGEV's that are K601 and like K637 that look completely different... I found one for a suzuki water ski, some for volkswagen trucks, and other things. I am wondering if I am imagining things, and that this carb will work. If so, I will be inclined to purchase it as early as tomorrow. It seems to be placed in the category of car and truck fuel delivery... should I e-mail the owner and ask for a part number or where it came from? (I'm new to this eBay thing). I know this isn't as much of a carb tech question as I'd like it to be, but it has to do with whether this carb will work.
It says it is rebuilt and has been flow tested. I would guess that we need the exact K624 kit, but I don't know how different the things are. If the Base Gaskets are the same, how much different are they? On Weber's site all the 32/36 DGEV's, even though they have different kit numbers, their part numbers are EXACTLY the same. Does that mean they are the same?
Also if I buy this carb and it doesn't come with it, do I need the Redline Adapter? If so, can I find those on eBay, too?
Thanks a head of time
-Vers
bury the bach.
http://home.stny.rr.com/versanick/burythetach
I was curious about the 38mm carb. How much harder is that to find and install? I can't find the information I'm looking for in the how-to's, but would very much like the 38mm. We're pulling out and porting my head and intake, so I'm looking to overhaul here. I have future plans for a moderate street cam (not sure abt valve porting), header, and the 1.75" high velocity straight pipe SuperTrapp exhaust that I already have built. I'm not looking at nitrous unless I leave the timing alone (unlikely given the conditions)... but I can't find the 38/38 or how much harder that is to install or how expensive it is. Thanks in advance.
bury the bach.
http://home.stny.rr.com/versanick/burythetach
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