I'm going to Dyno mine this summer at Matrix motor sports in Portland. Others should go as well.
I'm going to Dyno mine this summer at Matrix motor sports in Portland. Others should go as well.
DARKSIDE
WEBER POWER!
OK I was just reading this entire thread again.. wow lost links pics everytwhere. I hope someone can put some of them back up, or they are gone forever..lots of good work, that reminds me of something Kim Komando was saying on the radio this am, computers are not forever, if you have memories in photos you best print them out....
anyway. for inquiring minds check this out.....
Quote A20A1
OK here is the Venturi size for the Keihin vs the weber 32/36
KEIHIN:
-PRIMARY BARREL ~22.225mm
-SECONDARY BARREL ~31.75mm
WEBER:
-PRIMARY BARREL 32mm
-SECONDARY BARREL 36mm
Now tell me which carb sucks more...
just posting what was posted by A20A1. There were two different carbs, some were "three barrels" so that spec may be from one of the two different carbs.
i think it was venturi bore diameter not throttle bore diameter
- llia
I ran across some information on a 4X4 forum (4 and 6 cyl vehicles).
Even though you can get by without a regulator using the 32/36, it is a good thing to use one anyway. The fuel can be atomized slightly when the needle opens because of too much pressure (8psi and more with oem fuel pumps) and the Weber is designed to work best on 2.5-4 psi, thus you will get a lot of fumes which could be causing over rich condtions randomly, also makes carb gaskets seep. Using the regulator will remedy a lot of seasonal retuning issues as well.
I've read the install how/to over and over, but it doesn't mention what to do with the hot air pipe, coming off the exhaust manifold attaching to the stock intake snorkel. What do I do with it? I have the black box taken out, so far so good. Will have the carb out after eating some food.
there are two , one goes from the exhaust to the actual intake manifold, that is egr
the other one (larger) goes to the Air pulser, you can take that completly off and plut the pipe to the exhaust.
The flexable really light plastic one is hot air duct that goes to the old air breather, you just have to put that up for a while, you wont be able to use it on the standard weber air cleaner.
How do I plug the one on the exhaust manifold? The how to never mentioned that. :\
Plug it with what, quicksteel?
Alright, all emissions garbage is out, and things are going along nicely. I plugged the coolant hole in the manifold with quicksteel, and tomorrow I need to pick up some vaccuum plugs. The big thing I'm still unsure of is the throttle bracket. The how to here says "by far the best way to setup the weber linkage... use the old keihin carb linkage from the stock carb (modification necessary)."
Okay, uh, what modification? It says nothing about what needs to be done, and I'd really like to do this right. Can anybody go into detail on how to swap the throttle linkages?
Carb is in, car runs!
Haven't tuned it yet, it still idles crazy high, but man is the throttle responsive. Holy crap. Anyway, I used the Klein linkage, I had to dremel out the hole a little wider to fit on the throttle shaft of the Weber, and remove part of it that was hitting the carb base. I also had to use a few washers to space it away from the carb body, so it wouldn't hit the weber linkages. Woohooo!
Okay, just drove it around for 15 minutes. It currently idles at 2000-2500rpms. That needs to be fixed, but the really REALLY annoying thing is when I turn the car off it stumbles on and on and on and on. WTF. Nobody who was saying how great webers are mentioned this.
awe come on now, it isnt the weber's fault.
First of course , please no vacuum leaks or all idle adjustments are pointless.
If that is all cool then you probably have the throttle stop idle screw adj too far in. Also make sure the fat rod on the opposite side of the carb, which is the fast idle for when the choke blade is closed, is not sticking or binding. It is just a matter of minor adjustments.
BTW you also should have a little slack in the throttle cable.
Post a few pics of what you got there so far, so we may see something that may not look right.
Pretty sure I have no vacuum leaks. I plugged everything that needed to be plugged. I'll post some pics in a few minutes.
My AS valve is unplugged, that is correct, right? It is pulsing air when I put my hand near the opening. The big issue is the throttle return spring. I have no idea where that is supposed to hook up to, so I hooked mine to the throttle cable itself, before it is mounted to the throttle cable mount thing. It's running better, but it still stumbles on at shutoff.
I wouldnt advise putting the return spring on the cable, you may need to get a universal spring, longer, that will extend to something you can rely on.
Sometimes, when you put those studs in, and you tighten the nuts for the carb.. you can inadvertently turn the studs in too far and push the adapters apart.
On the AS valve you can remove the whole friggen thing, and plug off the tube like I decribed in the other thread.
it should be all here
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost....13&postcount=2
let the pics load it may be slow.
- llia
Vacuum leaks come from around the base of the carb and the adapter plates. I use aerosol cans full of butane (used for refilling my soldering iron) and spray the butane at the carb base. The vacuum leak will suck the gas in and the car will accelerate slightly or stumble. It's REALLY REALLY REALLY important that you make sure there are no leaks.
The car is running on because the throttle plates are still open when you shut off the car. I had this problem when I first did mine.
IMO the return spring that comes in the kit is crap. I ended up using a return spring from a diesel truck I had kicking around here at work.
As for where to hook the return spring I used an L bracket on one of the rear bolt holes on the intake that the vacuum tree bolted to. Sorry I don't have any pictures.
88 LX 5spd l 32/36 weber l KYB GR-2's l Refreshed A20A3 engine l
There was ONE pic of the Klein, and it says it needed mods. No information on what needed to be done. For the record, I had to dremel out the hole a little wider to fit on the throttle shaft of the Weber, and remove part of it that was hitting the carb base. I also had to use a few washers to space it away from the carb body, so it wouldn't hit the weber linkages.
Pics!
Yes you can remove the As valve but you must plug the hole in the exhaust manifold with a cap or remove the pipe from the manifold and weld the pipe shut or crimp it shut, then install the sealed pipe back on the exhaust manifold to plug the hole.
- llia
Bookmarks