2nd & 3rd GEN ACCORD WEBER 32/36 & 38 HELP

[jdmaccordnut]

Oh yeah, before I forget: How do I get cruise to still work? Do I just hook up vacuum to the cruise section? Or what?

[2oodoor]

Yes you can remove the As valve but you must plug the hole in the exhaust manifold with a cap or remove the pipe from the manifold and weld the pipe shut or crimp it shut, then install the sealed pipe back on the exhaust manifold to plug the hole.

I thought the wine cork worked pretty good, put a good tite-un in the pipe end up top till you can get the plug made for the exhaust end.

[2ndGenGuy]

Oh yeah, before I forget: How do I get cruise to still work? Do I just hook up vacuum to the cruise section? Or what?

Yeah you just run a line from the intake manifold to the cruise control components. I think there was a canister, hopefully you didn't throw that away, as I'm pretty sure the actuator or whatever it's called, needs that to work.

[jdmaccordnut]

Sweet. Will hook that up this weekend. Couple things though.... my engine is stock, at 267,000 miles. It still idles "rough". When accelerating, my tachometer bounces around ~500-1000rpms of wherever it actually is. Someone told me that my distributor could be bad... is that true? Or could it simply be some binding in the tach cable? If it is true, would that cause my rough idle? Would I need to order an entirely new distributor? Or just a new cap and rotor?

To fix the 'running on' when I shut the car off, I tweaked the throttle mounting bracket towards the rear of the car, allowing the throttle to close all the way. Thanks for the help, whoever suggested that, that seemed to work great.

Lastly, it accelerates about the same as before, but a little SLOWER. When I really get on it, it makes this louder "BRAAAAAAHHHH" noise, and it seems like it's bogging. Do I need to change jets? I thought this carb was well suited to this engine, stock?

Thanks for your help so far!

[A20A1]

could be fuel pressure/flow, jets, float, or timing needs some adjustment... stuff like that. you can't expect to pop on the carb and have it work 100% right out of the box.

also a vacuum leak will really hurt performance.

[jdmaccordnut]

so the jets aren't right for a stock engine? Or they could be? WTF man. I was told this carb bolts in. It did, but if it needs new jets right away, how the hell is this an accord kit?! Timing shouldn't change from one carb to another, I had the timing done a few thousand ago.

[2oodoor]

so the jets aren't right for a stock engine? Or they could be? WTF man. I was told this carb bolts in. It did, but if it needs new jets right away, how the hell is this an accord kit?! Timing shouldn't change from one carb to another, I had the timing done a few thousand ago.

be pateint you sound like you trying to blow your gasket trust me you did not make a mistake with this carb and you will have a lot more hair left dealing with it over the oem unit.
Like A20A1 said vaccum leaks and compensating for those with idle and idle air adjustments just masks the problem if that is the case. Other than that you probalby need to advance the ign timing some from what you describe.
Webers do growl when you open up the throttle but you should be picking up rpm along with it so yes, sounds like timing needs tweeked.

[greentee76]

so the jets aren't right for a stock engine? Or they could be? WTF man. I was told this carb bolts in. It did, but if it needs new jets right away, how the hell is this an accord kit?! Timing shouldn't change from one carb to another, I had the timing done a few thousand ago.

You already said you suspect the distributor to not be 100%, that could be your problem right there. Higher rpm's only amplify an ignition problem.
The jetting in the kit is correct, as mine bolted on and ran fine with no jet changes. You are blaming the one new part for an issue that could well be an item that has done 200k+ is probably the problem.

[A20A1]

Right the timing doesn't change... however adjusting the timing should help, because you just changed your carburetor, it responds differently then your oem carb thus you might need to stray from oem timing settings.

Carbs will still run rich or lean it doesn't mean the jets are perfect, but the ones you have now will work just fine. You should consider your altitude, as high or low altitudes will need different jets. Also those that might need the jets changed for sure though are the ones buying weber carbs off e-bay.

I found that the initial stumble came from fuel pressure not being constant and/or timing needing adjustment.

[greentee76]

A20A1... quick question that has been bothering me.
On the weber install how to you show vacuum for the dizzy advance hooked to the tree on the back of the manifold. So that would be manifold vacuum,correct?
On my Weber that I got from carbs unlimited as a kit there is a port on the carb body itself that the instructions with the kit say to hook the vacuum advance to. That would be venturi vacuum,correct?
Now what confuses me is- are not manifold vacuum and venturi vacuum inverse of each other? One being high when the other is low? If so which is correct? What type of vacuum did Honda originally use for advance?
And lastly, does it matter?

[jdmaccordnut]

I hooked the #2 hose on the distributor up to the vacuum tree on the back of the manifold. It runs okay. On my last tank I averaged 29.7mpg.

[A20A1]

The one on the carb may be port or ported vacuum. I doubt it's venturi vacuum... but I guess it depends how high up the port is on the carb.

Ported vacuum may not be pulling anything or could be very weak when the throttle is closed at idle if it sits above the throttle plate... If it sit's below the plate then it will be closer to intake manifold vacuum.

Yes venturi and manifold are inverse.

Also for those that need a second opinion... I know this is not our car but in the first paragraph he mentions the need to adjust timing to run the 32/36
http://www.mgbmga.com/tech/mgb19.htm the most interesting part about the paragraph is at the end where he talks about a synchronous 32/36 mod.

I've posted that link before in other threads, I'm looking for more like that to add to this thread.

.
.
.

here is a good read though not specifically for webers
http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm

.
.
.


I know some of you might have something against the stock carb but here is a link praising keihin's... bike carbs that is.
http://www.prirace.com/carbs.htm
the fcr looks promising.
http://www.hardracing.com/Carburetors/Carburetors2.htm

[greentee76]

Well I ask the question as it does not seem to be very strong vacuum from that port. Don't get me wrong the car runs good and gets good mileage. however now that I have the new engine broke in and have started floggin on it some,it seems like it loses steam around 4k and doesn't want to rev much past that unless I'm at wide open throttle. Being that this engine makes peak HP in the 5500 rpm range it seems that maybe I'm not getting the advance that I should be.
I think I'll switch it over to the back of the manifold and see if there is a difference.
I have the distributor advanced as far as it will mechanically go and am still only at 20 BTDC.
I also suspect a exhaust restriction may be to blame for this but I don't think what I have is any more restrictive than what stock would be.

[jdmaccordnut]

Weird. So I plugged that stupid AS valve tonight with a plate and some gasket material. Car runs WAY smoother now. Strange.

[greentee76]

Thought I should come back and post some results from my vacuum experiment. I switched my advance vacuum from the port on the carb to manifold vacuum on the tree at the rear of the manifold. The car seems to pull much stronger in this configuration.
This also raised my idle 2-300 rpms. I have not adjusted it yet. I lost 1MPG (all city driving) on the first half tank with it hooked up this way. I also have been running it a bit harder so that may account for this and not the change.
My plans now are to Back the idle back down to 1k and I think I will also retard the mechanical timing to around 16-17 degrees as this is where I achieved my best fuel economy with the old engine.
For now I would say that if you do the conversion to plug the port on the carb and run your advance to manifold vacuum (as A20A1 has it in the how to).

[jdmaccordnut]

Pics?

[jdmaccordnut]

So I've been having a few problems:

1. When turning the car off, it runs on. I can fix this, sort of, by making the throttle cable so loose that the spring SOMETIMES closes the carb all the way. This works about 50% of the time.

2. Cold weather sucks. I start the car, and the first few minutes of driving suck, because it wants to die unless I give it gas. I have to rev it, and rev while I'm braking to keep it from dying. That's kind of annoying. Is my choke working properly?

[greentee76]

So I've been having a few problems:

1. When turning the car off, it runs on. I can fix this, sort of, by making the throttle cable so loose that the spring SOMETIMES closes the carb all the way. This works about 50% of the time.

2. Cold weather sucks. I start the car, and the first few minutes of driving suck, because it wants to die unless I give it gas. I have to rev it, and rev while I'm braking to keep it from dying. That's kind of annoying. Is my choke working properly?

1- The throttle return spring that comes with the kit SUCKS. Go get yourself something much healthier, I used one from a big diesel truck that I had here at work, no more worries.

2- Are you pushing the accelerator to the floor once and releasing before you start? This should set the choke and bring it onto a fast idle 2-2.5k. Let it idle for a minute before tapping the accelerator to bring the idle down.You may also need to adjust the mixture screw on the rear of the carb on the driverside a little in the cold weather? I have not had to do this yet and we've gotten down in the forties a couple of nights already.

[jdmaccordnut]

I have no fast idle when it's cold. What could cause that? I'm guessing the choke isn't working at all. :|

[greentee76]

Pull the wire off the choke and test it with a multimeter, should have 12v anytime the key is on. This wire actually comes right off the alternator which I thought was wierd. Should be the same wire which went to the choke on the Kehien, would have had a bullet connector on it originally. I am asuming you're setting the choke with one pump of the accelerator.

[jdmaccordnut]

I have no idea how to set the choke.... do I need to push the accelerator all the way down with the key in to activate it? And yes, I ran the wire from the old Kehien choke to the new Weber choke.

[greentee76]

All I do is one pump of the accelerator all the way to the floor and let go. The key does not have to be in or on.

[2oodoor]

it really really really is rather simple if you examine it closely. The choke disc inside the round thing is made of a special bi metal that contracts when the ambient temp is below like 50 degrees or so. When you go out and mash the gas pedal to the floor, if the bi metal is contracted, the choke butterfly will close off air into the carb throat. When this happens a rod is also attached to that same lever that kicks up a rod down the side of the carb , this is the fast idle rod, some have a screw to adjust how much it moves to hold the throttle open slightley which is "fast idle" The electric wire heats up the bi metal to expand it , thus letting go of the butterfly and fast idle rod. These webers do not have a long fast idle, they kick off pretty early. Sometimes you will need to go out and just barely turn the air mix screw for the base idle as the temps change during the year. You can turn it with your fingers and there is nothing to remove to access that, takes a few seconds.

[jdmaccordnut]

You know what? I just disconnected the stupid choke, leaving it open, and I no longer have a problem. Why would the engine try to die if the choke was closed? Shouldn't it run better?

[jdmaccordnut]

I give up. Car is for sale. Maybe someone who is better at carbs than me can fix all it's issues, but I'm getting tired of it.