I think you may need help with the basic understanding of how the automatic choke works.
The choke will not close until you mash the throttle to release or unbind the choke butterfly off the throttle stop.
Once that happens the stepper for the fast idle comes up, there is a rod on the opposite side of the throttle connection that handles that. Only like five pieces we are talking about here...Pm if you want
FYI to anyone, I'm getting about 22-25mpg with the Weber. Not super impressed, especially since the how to said the stock Klein linkage was the best, so I did that but the pedal travel does not have enough 'travel' to let the car idle reasonable, AND hit WOT. So my car is "slower" than it was stock, because I can't get to WOT thanks to the tip of using the Klein's linkage. Anyway.
don't blame the equipment, you just had to chime in with this BS? I was getting 29 mpg with mine, dogging it all the time or not same mpg consistant. Hell even the 38 weber Im using now on the other car is getting 25-30 mpg.Originally Posted by jdmaccordnut
I could have tuned it closer to get better mpg.
The only thing you use is the cresant shaped cable retainer so you can use the same cable with out cutting it.that actually provide MORE travel than the junk pack weber sends out.
Never did see any pictures of your set up, you being all techy savy and all what was the problem? I could help you with it, gladly. automatic tranny? tricky is the set up for those using a weber but I can guide on that too.
Not meaning to sound as condesending as you, but I am standing by for a spelling grammer error comment.lol
Last edited by 2oodoor; 12-02-2008 at 04:39 PM.
Take the bracket that holds the cable off the front of the carb and make a spacer to move it one inch toward the front of the car. This will fix this "problem". Mine was not exactly perfect with just the bracket provided in the kit but I was able to get WOT and a larger return spring corrected the issue of the throttle not returning all the way like I said a month or more ago.
The Weber conversion is the best money I've ever spent on the car and making it work correctly is not rocket science, but maybe beyond your capabilities.
88 LX 5spd l 32/36 weber l KYB GR-2's l Refreshed A20A3 engine l
I wonder why your pedal doesn't have enough travel. I've set up the weber on two cars and both could idle around 500 and open the throttle plates all the way.
You can't use the stock keihin linkage as it though, the reason for it being so good is that it has a smoother operation then using stock weber linkages.
- llia
pretty much exactly how to resolve this issue, good post greentea!
I'll post pics in the next few days
Here are some pics
I owe you some pics of mine. Been too busy with something else lately.
It looks like you need to dremel cut some of the metal of that oem piece. Also there is not enough shaft showing at the end of that nut, it could fall off possibly. The cable does not look quite right either, hard to tell you why without my pictures.
I can see why you are having some problems there.
Like the chrome valve cover? Woot. Anxiously awaiting your pics!
I was looking at that valve cover and thinking something looked different, it is chrome, saa weeetLike the chrome valve cover? Woot. Anxiously awaiting your pics!
Well I put in new plugs, and redid the distributor, oiled the bearings, new rotor, new cap... still doesn't run worth shit in the cold. Dies instantly. Why? So now what I do is stab the gas while I'm braking every few seconds to keep the engine alive.
6th gen subforums added. please begin to use them and help us keep this place organized for every ones benefit
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compare the stock vs modified intake manifold opening, I had them both out and decided to share this
Damn, big difference! Is the entire dividing wall removed out of that one?
Yes, that one was Cygnusx1's masterpiece.. here is the one I made for the B20a
I added those divots to help eliminate pooling under the 38 Weber but after a summer of using it that way I think it actually richens the mixture too much once the outside temps get under 70 degrees or so.
Divots were to allow smaller pooling and quicker evaperation "spreading out the liquid"
I suppose yet another reason to use sidedrafts, meh
How do I plug the one on the exhaust manifold?
I have a question. How do I hook up the vacuum canister with the weber? I know the routing of the 2 fuel lines but it also has some vacuum lines that go to it.
Theres two vacuum ports on the back I think. One is for the vac advance the other is extra. Or you can 'T' off of the brake booster line.
Oh so I can just unscrew that extra one with the little cap and run that to the vacuum canister? alright thats ez enough.
So I took my vac canister out and noticed that there were 4 lines on it. One to tank, one to carb, and I suppose the 2 other ones go to the vacuum. Or one of em just went into a filter in the black box and just pulls air in.
Does the top one that hooks to the little solenoid go to the vacuum? or does that one just hook to a little air filter and the bottom one hooks to the vacuum?
Im going to look at my manual and see if it has the routing and what it does.
I removed the canister on all mine and just left the vent tube hanging out of the firewall. There is a routing techique here somewhere though if you wish to retain the canister though.
Has anyone used the charcoal canister with a Weber yet? I would think that its purpose, "scavenging vapors" would help improve mileage?
I would like to retain it with the Weber, but don't know what to do with routing the lines.
I kept my vacuum bottle and just hooked up both ports to manifold vac.
Any help with the hose routing would be awesome.
Also, anyone know where the big tube coming out of the bottom goes to? Fuel tank?
I'm in the process of my Weber conversion, and know little about carbs, so excuse the stupid question. Is this (middle of pic) a vacuum line for EGR?
Thanks.
It can be, its just a vaccum port really but I believe using it for the egr is its purpose, tho not using egr is fine also.
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