2nd & 3rd GEN ACCORD WEBER 32/36 & 38 HELP

[swifty549]

Engine bay pic. I made this throttle cable connector so the cable would go slack and allow the throttle to close completely. Also easy to disconnect and reconnect without adjustment. I moved to the inner hole to better match the transmission cable action, shift points are identical to OEM. (Edit: Shift points are better than OEM)

[2oodoor]

I finished my Weber conversion, pretty cool! An easy job overall with a few snags. I machined a throttle cable mount and a swivel connector to avoid modifying the OEM cable and not use the included cable clamp. I switched the fuel inlet and had to fab a mounting for the safety return spring. I installed all new fuel hose and noticed the steel tube from at the firewall was 5/16" so I bought a fuel filter with 5/16" on both ends and avoided a step down hose coupler. After all that, a few cranks and it was purring like a kitten.

Removing the old smog crap was cathartic and there is still more crap to remove but I need to know more about the fuel pump and electric choke systems, there is some kind of logic involved there that I don't want so screw up. See obligatory crap removed photo :-)

Nice work! I always use the crescent shape cable guide off the OEM carb, modify it to bolt to weber throttle tab so to get full travel, no binding or strain or trimming on cable.

[Dr_Snooz]

Looks pro!

[White4dr]

So last year I bought a 3g with a weber on it. This year due to bad gaskets I'm rebuilding the carb. I figured I'd take this time to finish the vacuum delete and egr delete. But I need help with the vacuum delete as I still want my cruise control, brakes, etc to work. After countless hours of searching on here I'm still near clueless about the black box, and the oil box that are underneath the intake. I'm removing the intake manifold and having trouble getting at the nut under the #2 runner so I was going to try to get it from underneath but there is alot in my way as you all know. I'm wondering what I can remove and leave off and what NEEDS to be replaced.
Thanks in advance

[Dr_Snooz]

Well, as a general rule, you would not want to remove the vacuum supply to the items you want to keep. Nor would you want to remove power to the things controlling them. The Weber probably has a few vacuum ports on it so simply plug the cruise actuator to one and you should be fine. Just make sure it's not the ported vacuum source. Your Weber manual should tell you which one that is.

The brakes should also be easy. Just make sure the hose going from the brake booster gets connected to a big vacuum port on the carb and you'll be good.

As for the PCV system (the black box on the block), do you even need to do anything with it?

[White4dr]

Well I'm cleaning up around My intake, I have the egr stuff covered I'm more just confused about the 2 white vacuum valves? (Is what I think they are) and if I can remove them while keeping my cruise. And anything under or around my intake that's not necessary I'd like to remove ex. My pcv system, I'm still researching to figure out that I can do with it. Also the black can near pass. Firewall, I can remove that right?

[Oldblueaccord]

I personally would consider keeping the PVC system. its really a necessary item on piston driven engines. I understand you want to modify it but I would not just totally delete it.

[ShiRen]

My cruise was electronically boofed, however it does seem to work if you only keep the vacuum line going to the servo. I had it working for a whole 3 seconds though.

Leave the black box on the back of the block and find a U or L shaped heater hose to go in top of it, it will vent to atmosphere, but no debris will get in it. Put a filter on the valve cover. Pcv valve can go in the trash.

You will need to connect a vacuum line to the vacuum port nearest to the distributor body for the distributor vacuum advance. It will need a vacuum check valve in this line... Or at least it's preferred, make sure it's in the right direction.

Plug all the holes you don't use that are going to the engine, you shouldn't need anything else. Keep a mental note of things go though just in case something doesn't work right with the hvac or cruise control. The ac doesn't need any of it's vacuum lines, the only unknown one I have plugged in is the one going into the firewall around the heater hose area, I just assumed it went to the vents.

[Dr_Snooz]

Are you confusing a vac delete with an emissions delete? There's almost nothing that will improve by deleting your emissions components. The PCV system keeps your oil clean and makes your engine last longer. The charcoal can keeps your car from smelling like fresh gas every time you park it. EGR keeps your car from pinging. Etc., etc.

[ShiRen]

Deleting the charcoal can will do nothing helpful, but remove it, keep it, whatever. Mine is removed but my tank holds pressure... It's not good, but meh.

Egr won't cause pinging unless it's equipped and stuck open. There is nothing good about egr systems, it was a bandaid in the beginning and a good catalytic converter should do its job. All it does is make the intake dirty and hot. Most new cars don't use it for good reason.

Pcv is required, but it can be vent to atmosphere without hurting the engine. The pcv valve on these cars are basically non serviceable, the rubber it sits in cracks and there is no replacement, it's a vacuum leak. Also, I too often see filters on the valve cover but the pcv valve still plumbed into the intake manifold... That's a vacuum leak. If one side is to atmosphere, the other side should be as well. You can add a catch can connected to both ends and vent it to atmosphere or plumb it to the intake and that will filter out a lot of the oil particulates, but it's another part that requires maintenance.

Not like these cars came with smog pumps, so not much else there in the emissions realm besides the cat, but that should just be replaced with a magnaflow and forgotten

[HMM]

Anyone have step by step install directions for the weber carb? I just bought an 88 accord from a coworker with a bad carb. I've ordered a 38 DGES kit (K 728-38) from redlineweber.com that will hopefully be here next week. I've looked through a lot of threads and most don't have the install pics anymore sadly... Any help would be appreciated!

[ShiRen]

Follow the vacuum delete thread, afik the only vacuum lines you need are the power valve on the carb and the distributor vacuum advance, both of these tee together and go to any port on the manifold.

[Dr_Snooz]

Brake booster?

[ShiRen]

Pretty sure the brake booster comes off its own big nipple on the main vacuum tee on the back of the intake manifold. So, its pretty obvious you can just do whatever you want with it.

[HMM]

So I have a few questions on my Weber install that I hope y’all can help me with…

Do you plug this hot air pipe or remove it at the exhaust header and block it off somehow? And what is the other valve with two vacuum lines, do I just leave it venting to atmosphere?


And what is this connection? And the vacuum line in the pic also? Might be the coolant line, unsure it goes underneath the intake manifold:


And lastly in the install directions in a thread I was reading said to connect choke wire from harness to new choke, where is that at?

[HMM]

Oh and to make sure I’m right on this one, I plug the nipple that doesn’t have a vacuum line on it and the other one goes to the back of the carb, correct?

[Dr_Snooz]

That hot air pipe from the manifold you can remove. I'd doubt there's any hole at the other end to block off.

I haven't done this conversion, so if someone else contradicts me later, then listen to them.

Generally speaking, however, anything that still needs vacuum (like the brake booster or distributor advance), you can plug into almost any available vacuum port on the new carb. The only exception is if there's a ported vacuum port on the new carb, which should only be used for a ported advance distributor, which I'm pretty sure Honda never used. Just block that vac port off and use a tee if you run out of the other ports. The choke wire will plug into an electric choke. If your new carb doesn't have an electric choke on it, then there's nothing to be done.

That's really all there is to it. You just need it to run at this point. If there are old sensors missing vac lines, or random wires no longer plugged in, it doesn't really matter as long as it runs well enough (and you don't have vacuum leaks). It will probably not run as well as the original carb, however. You've removed a lot of the magic Honda put on it to make it civilized. You might notice weirdness here and there, like high altitude cold starts are more protracted, but that should be rare.

Post a vid when you get it running.

[ShiRen]

It looks like you are on the right track. The vacuum nipple thing coming off the thermostat housing can be left alone. You can delete the hot air pipe, I don't think it is necessary and it is difficult to remove and will require a plug in the exhaust manifold and a block off plate on the manifold. There are 3 coolant lines on the manifold, I am unsure what you do with them for a weber because I believe they all come together at the carb. The 2 large lines on the sides flow through the manifold, the one underneath goes through the carb and meets up in the manifold. I prefer to plug the center carb line and connect the other 2 together, bypassing the manifold, I don't think they are necessary and doing so will prevent leaks. Your region of this dirt is no colder than mine, but make sure you know how to handle a stuck throttle if the carb ever so happens to ice. And I think you have the lines on the dizzy right, but it goes back to the manifold, anywhere you like as long as there is full vacuum, it only tees to the carb if your weber has a vacuum power valve, I don't remember if they do, but if they do it will have a very obvious vacuum nipple on it.

[Dr_Snooz]

I'm pretty sure that air pipe runs from a baffle on the exhaust manifold to a door on the (old) air filter. Unless these setups are really atypical.

[ShiRen]

Oooooh, I didn't look at the picture well enough... yeah, he can't even use that with the weber, only with the stock air cleaner

So just pull that off the exhaust, no plugging anyting

[HMM]

Yep, once I pulled it I felt in there and it was just to direct some hot air up. I got to looking at the old carb and found that electrical connection went to the stock carb’s choke so I made an extension wire and plugged it into the Weber’s choke. And with the help of the coolant pressure tester, that other vacuum hose was actually the coolant line I had to plug. I threw a bolt in it and put a worm gear clamp on it. Didn’t have any aluminum bar stock laying around to I used an old piece of corian countertop I had laying around and used that for a block off plate. Probably not the best block off plate but it works.

The moment of truth scared the crap out of me because she went to 6k rpms real quick (I had the throttle cable too tight). After some adjustment and re-engineering of my cable set it I had the rpms under control. I robbed the parts off the old carb and bolted them to the new carb. After idling for a bit I took a trip around the neighborhood a couple times before venturing out into the wild. Made a loop around which is about 3 miles and parked her. I think she’s good to go. Thanks for all the help! I’ve got just under $2k in this thing and couldn’t be happier. I bought it from the original owner and it has been garage kept it’s whole life. She should make a fine daily beater and reminds me of my college years since my buddy had one in college.

[Dr_Snooz]

Congrats on a job well done! We need pics of this car though.

[HMM]

Here’s some pics starting with the exterior (excuse the mess, haven’t cleaned up after the carb install and we are in the middle of a rehab)



It was rear ended early on at low speed and the paint flaked over the years, unfortunately it’s like that on both sides where they blended it.


Trunk looks amazing


My poor man’s block off plate…lol

[HMM]

Interior, for some reason it was giving me upload issues in the other post…

[Dr_Snooz]

The front end looks pretty shiny from here. Nice!