If you need to buy an Adapter plate for the weber... the part # is:
99004.128
If you need to buy an Adapter plate for the weber... the part # is:
99004.128
- llia
#K624 = 76-83 Honda Accords 32/36 DGEV
#K637 = 68-73 NISSAN 510 40 DCOE
#K728 = 86-89 Honda Accords 32/26 DGEV
#K601 = Suzuki Samurai 32/36 DGAV
If you buy the 32/36 carb by itself then you will need to buy jets and the adapter plate and linkage and throttle cable bracket, all seperately.
Same goes if you buy the 38/38 carb by itself.
The DGAV is a water choke which is neat because it runs off the coolant temp directly instead of an electric sensor like the DGEV uses. but since our cars already have the sensor for a DGEV we can use that as well. the DGV-5A is a Manual Choke, but it requires a cable that needs to be routed thru the firewall so the driver has control over the choke operation. I would preffer the Manual choke not for the ease of installation but for the amount of control it gives the driver.
don't buy an entire kit unless you intend to buy the K728 kit for the 86-89 accord... no other kit will work.
Last edited by A20A1; 01-21-2003 at 11:47 PM.
- llia
Weber 38/38... I found a 38/38 DGAV on eBay for the Suzuki Samurai. I know I can get the adapter plate and linkage from Weber, but they mention nothing about the throttle cable bracket or the jets. I have e-mailed them asking, but they have yet to respond.
Other than eBay, I only find the 38 series at carbs.net http://www.carbs.net/Weber/weberpartscarb.asp
They say kit applications work for 4-8 cylinders all around, but I don't know if they're referring to a 38/38 system (I assume?) or a single 38mm (because they list as 38, not 38/38)... They have both types of chokes available, water and electric.
I also don't see if these carbs are downdraft or sidedraft. Nowhere on weber's site, or carbs.net or anywhere can I figure out exactly what it is I'm getting... is that something I affect or does it come one way or another? (I am so ignorant about carbs, I've always had efi before my 3g)...
The water choke looks like a pretty neat system, but the electronic one looks simpler to put together.
Thanks ahead of time for the advice, and thanks for what you've given. These forums are so helpful, it's amazing! what a community there is now... something like 1600 registered users! amazing!
-Vers
bury the bach.
http://home.stny.rr.com/versanick/burythetach
Okay, I found the jet kits. Sorry about that part... I still am very interested in this 38mm business. I'll e-mail them about what else I'd need to install it, then come here.
bury the bach.
http://home.stny.rr.com/versanick/burythetach
Are you sure it's not a 38 DGAS?
38 DGS (DGES ELECTRIC CHOKE) (DGAS WATER CHOKE)
I't may say DGV because it can work with a DGV baseplate or on a car equipt with a DGV but the 38 isn't a DGV.
also
38/38 is just a longer wording of the series. But I assume they call it 38 since its synchronous like a 40 DCOE and the throttle plates are the same for each barrel.
I'm surprised You didn't go for at least a 2.0" header back exhaust.
Last edited by A20A1; 01-22-2003 at 12:30 PM.
- llia
The 38 DGAS is a synchronous dual downdraft carb with 38mm bores that open simultaneously and has the water choke. The DGES has the electric choke. It will work with the same 32/36 DGV adapter plate, although you can open up the adapter plate bores to match the carb. The throttle linkage is the same as would be found on the 32/36, so you may have to get creative with the linkage to hook it to the stock accelerator cable.
I've found the performance is better in the mid and high rpm range than the 32/36, but you have to baby the pedal at low rpm to avoid bogging the engine. The 38DGAS works best with a cam and exhaust upgrade.
I am buying a weber 32/36 from chronicsinners I was wondering if anyone has done a how to install on this project? If not if you have any tips that would be great. Thanks Darkside
DARKSIDE
WEBER POWER!
don't rush... there is a port you need to plug on the intake manifold after the stock carb is removed in order to keep the coolant from going inside the manifold.
- llia
Thanks for the tip. I'll probably have more questions later. So I'll talk to you then.
DARKSIDE
WEBER POWER!
so you tell him but not me! ARGH!!!!!!! im still pissed off about that! COOLANT POURING INTO THE INTAKE! i plged the hole and burned it all out!
is that harmful to the OZONE?
Travis
www.cardomain.com/id/dxhatchback
Ok I have read over and over again that the weber is a great thing for our carb accords. The question is, how great is it considering these things:
1) All weather conditions, including cold (below freezing) all weather combinations (cold weather plus rain, snow, etc.), even at highway speeds.
2) Tunability and relability. How much does the carb need to be tuned in say a one week period. Can it be tuned once and not touched like the honda carb, or is it a constant neusance to make the car run right for the particular weather conditions?
3) How are the cold morning starts, meaning when it is below 30 degrees at night, and the car sits, how well does the car start?
4) Have you noticed you are opening your hood a lot more because you need to tune the weber.
Answer these questions carb gurus! The weather here in west virginia is pretty up and down, very cold, wet, rainy, etc...so I need to take these into account.
Nate.
i have set my carb twice... once in the cold and once in the warm... it runs like ass in the -25 celcius... but its ok over 2200 RPM... just shift high and keep the revs up...
i got the carb in the fall... so it wasnt warm alot... this spring and summer will tell me alot about the cab
Travis
www.cardomain.com/id/dxhatchback
I got the carb in the start of winter (MN winter) and in the mornings I will turn it over and it will start and die but the second time I start it keeps running. I think it could be my fuel pump (seems like it just doesn't get enough fuel in the morning) I've tuned it 3 times since November. When the weather changes drastically it will most likely need to be tuned again and it's really easy. Just a flat head screw driver to tune it and the screw are really easy to get to. Other than the carb isn't open to WOT yet it works better than stock by far. Just can't wait to figure it out on how to get it to open WOT.
It gets pretty cold where I live (lowest I have started and driven the car was -10 F) and I have not had any problems. I got the carb in the summer and I can tell you that it works great! I have not had any problems at all. I have tuned the carb probably 4-5 times in the year I have had it, and it didnt even really need to be tuned when I did it.
yeah my car does that too, but only when it is really cold. I will turn the key, it will start for a sec and then die, then i turn the key a second time and it will start right up and run like normal.
same here... i find that if i place a hot plate under the engine and place a blanket on the hood and fenders... i start it up in the morning and it blows warm air... this is in a -20 C night too!
Travis
www.cardomain.com/id/dxhatchback
I just got back from my friends house. It is -3 F with a wind chill of -15 F. The car ran just fine.
With the growing interest in the webers, we need a weber installation how-to. I would buy one right now and slap it on, but I dont understand the sequence of the install. Does it come with instructions?
With all of us knowing little to nothing about carbs, we need something like this.
Anyone want to write up a brief explanation of how to install it?
Im looking for one right now........find me a good price on a weber!
Nate.
its a shame you deleted and blocked me man! i have a weber and i could have walked you through it step by step! if you want... i can help you out on AIM
Travis
www.cardomain.com/id/dxhatchback
my carb wasnt getting WOT so i removed the rubber stopper under the pedal.. so much better now
Travis
www.cardomain.com/id/dxhatchback
What I did I drill the little hole in that cable holder bigger with my dremel. And then to get WOT I used my dremel to cut out that little plate that is attached onto the floor and under the carpet. Then I adjusted the throttle cable again and I was at WOT finally.
Adding some keywords for searching??
Originally posted by A20A1
weber throttle cable wide open adjustment linkage carb
Here's another lazy way to do it, poped back into my head when I read dxhatch's comment. I did this on my dcoe settup since I was being lazy and didnt feel like taking the whole bell crank assembly apart again to drill a new hole. Just grab the accelerator pedal and pull. Just keep pulling it out slightly untill you've taken out the slack. Just don't go too far or you'll have a bitch of a time heel toeing it.
andy
You could heat it up with a heat gun and bend it. It's funny b/c I thought I was the only one to get pissed and start doing weird mods to get WOT. I don't feel alone anymore.
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