Phone double posted, sorry.
Phone double posted, sorry.
Last edited by CzEcHy; 08-03-2011 at 02:03 PM.
You can leave the egr with nothing on it.
Why is that stud on the right so far up? How in the world did you even get a nut on it!
When I see these uneven lengths on the studs it reminds me that you can easily warp the whole works by tightening the nut as the stud is turning at the same time. This pushes the carb away from the adapter.
It appears he didn't get that stud, possibly the others as well, completely screwed in first. I would def. revisit that part of the install to be sure. Maybe needs to use a tap to clean out the threads-?
Did you use a stud tool, or the dbl. nut method?
Thanks for the responses guys. I did the double nut, and used loc-tite. It seemed to me as though they went in deep enough. The studs actually aren't at different heights, the top of the one is just hidden from view.
So if I don't use the EGR, just cap both off? Would you guys suggest not using EGR?
They sure don't look to be at the same height in the pic-
Last edited by TotaledTL; 08-16-2011 at 10:26 AM.
So i just took an hour to read through the entire thread, and am still left with some questions unanswered....But for the helpful and knowledgable indivduals I own a 83 Accord Sedan Stock EK1, Auto Trans, 73,000 miles.
I pulled a Weber 32/36 DGEV off a 89 Accord Automatic
-Carb
-Filter
-Adapter Plates (2)
-Custom TV Linkage Bracket (See picture)
-Hardware
Questions?
1.)Do I need to purchase a new TV cable in order to set up with my Weber Throttle bracket?
2.) Do i Need to modify the Throttle cable in any way shape or form, i.e cutting, lengthening ect.
3.) If i just yanked this off another accord (Although an 89 not 83) will i need to adjust the idle screws ect.
4.) How can I clean this thing down, because it was sitting in a junkyard for who knows how long? But iverall on the outside it looks in good shape. (See Pics)
No, I am pretty sure your TV cable goes directly off the gas pedal. (Maybe I'm thinking of my 81) If so, leave it as is.
If you take the throttle bracket off of your carb, and fit it onto the Weber, there should be no need to modify the cable.2.) Do i Need to modify the Throttle cable in any way shape or form, i.e cutting, lengthening ect.
It will probably be pretty close, but you will absolutely have to adjust the idle mixture. You might want to downsize the idle and main jets as well. But you should be able to at least get it running and driving with only adjustments to the idle screw.3.) If i just yanked this off another accord (Although an 89 not 83) will i need to adjust the idle screws ect.
If you want to really clean it and get it right, buy a rebuild kit and a CAN of carb cleaner. Not the aerosol can, but the paint-can style of can. Take as many parts off as you can and let them soak in the can for a while, then pull them out and they should look as good as new. It will take the brass finish off of some of the parts though and they will look silver. And by replacing all the gaskets and parts while it's apart, you reduce the chance that you'll have problems. Junkyard carbs can be kind of a bitch if there is something wrong with it. Your adapter plate also will not work, but you could probably sell it to a member here for a few bucks.4.) How can I clean this thing down, because it was sitting in a junkyard for who knows how long? But iverall on the outside it looks in good shape. (See Pics)
Last edited by 2ndGenGuy; 04-03-2012 at 01:22 PM.
Why wouldn't the adapter plate work? Its the same intake manifold bolt pattern right? I believe ithas three hex screws that go into the Intake manifold and has the plate that goes on top of that with thef our studs I think?? I'm not next o itnow but I thought the carb and adapter plates were the same for both generations? Some clarification please.
Also which vaccum is the advance on the distributor? I think I only see one that comes out the solenoid on the distributor. There will only be one vaccum going to the Weber then and that's the advance? Thanks abunch for all the help!!
Last edited by charliefowle03; 04-03-2012 at 06:22 PM.
EDIT!!! This is a DGAV 32/36, NOT DGEV 32/36..... there is a difference right? Mine has an Electronic chock it looks like it. with the red wire coming out the front.
Also... will o need and kind of return spring ?
Last edited by charliefowle03; 04-03-2012 at 06:46 PM.
Last edited by A20A1; 04-28-2012 at 11:27 AM.
- llia
If your TV cable is indeed connected at the gas pedel inside and not outside by the carb linkage then you have to do nothing but adjust it at the transmisson after you're done installing the new carb. This can be tricky so feel free to ask and post what the details of what you're doing that isn't working.
Cleaning the carb inside is the most important thing here since there are relatively no moving parts in these other than the throttle,float and accell pump. Fuel flow throughout the carb is most important.
Provided your shafts are in good shape, you don't really need a carb kit to refresh these carbs, maybe a top gasket if you tear the old one up taking the top hat off. These are designed to take off a number of times using the same gasket. The power valve may need replacing and the accel pump diaphragm since those are organic composed materials that could rot.
Get some good throttle body cleaner and use the tube that comes with it to clean out every hole you can find. Take out all the jets and E tubes if you can, clean under them. Mark down where everything goes and what your jet and e tube sizes are, this will be important later on when you're wanting to fine tune the carb to the car.
THIS Spiral bore adapter is interesting...
for a Toyota but the concept applies. 5 hp gain?
Here is a NICE Wiki Tech about Weber and Holley 5200 carbs.
Very useful information!
Last edited by 2oodoor; 06-08-2012 at 04:19 AM.
Nice. I was checking out the DCNF from the wiki site. I remember some one here had one or even possibly installed one.
- llia
I am rebuilding my 85 1.8L and had planned to put a reman Keihin OEM carb but it has become obvious to me that this will be too difficult and involve emissions parts that I probably wont be able to find ... ie thermovalves... Does anyone have a good list of instructions for converting to the Weber 32/36.
Also have an unused reman OEM Keihin if anyone needs it.
JKP Powder Springs GA
1985 Accord Hatchback LX (stock) 340K
2010 Odyssey EXL
1970 Jeepster Commando
if you want a complete kit, you can go to the website for Pierce manifolds and they sell the complete kit, including the carb, throttle linkages, adapter plate etc, they also have them for second generation and possibly first generation
2nd generation kit WEBER CONVERSION<br><font color="red">K727</font>
third generation kit WEBER CONVERSION<br><font color="red">K728</font>
That's money ! Thanks for the great tip on Pierce !
JKP Powder Springs GA
1985 Accord Hatchback LX (stock) 340K
2010 Odyssey EXL
1970 Jeepster Commando
K728 kit: It looks like the throttle cable is routed to the firewall side, is that correct? That would require tight bends in the cable, it seems pulling from the front like OEM would be much better.
I've spent hours searching for pictures of a Weber on a 3 gen Accord and have found nothing.
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
You could just flip the carb the other way... I always run mine the other way so the linkage is on the driver's side. Then it'll be pulling from the front of the car.
Excellent, I couldn't tell from the limited photos and drawings available whether it could be rotated or not. I think the fuel nipple can also be reversed.
Thanks for posting the photo, there were a a lot of good photos in this thread I remember looking at, it's too bad they're gone.
I finished my Weber conversion, pretty cool! An easy job overall with a few snags. I machined a throttle cable mount and a swivel connector to avoid modifying the OEM cable and not use the included cable clamp. I switched the fuel inlet and had to fab a mounting for the safety return spring. I installed all new fuel hose and noticed the steel tube from at the firewall was 5/16" so I bought a fuel filter with 5/16" on both ends and avoided a step down hose coupler. After all that, a few cranks and it was purring like a kitten.
Removing the old smog crap was cathartic and there is still more crap to remove but I need to know more about the fuel pump and electric choke systems, there is some kind of logic involved there that I don't want so screw up. See obligatory crap removed photo :-)
Groovy!
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
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