more of this harness mess going in

[lostforawhile]

I mocked up everything behind the passenger side of the dash, then discovered the soft touch rev control won't fit, I guess it's going to have to go in the glovebox, as msd is very adamant, about not extending it's wires, the duct work from the blower to the heater core all fits, I was worried about that, under hood fuse box is in the passenger foot well, I spaced it out, so the harness, can drop directly behind it, and it can use factory plugs, I already know the mechanical parts for the choke all clear, I still have to put the cannon plug back in the firewall, as the wires are all soldered to it, and figure out where to put two small fuse blocks, then a lot of stuff can start being wired together. I had to stop as my back is killing me, someone is supposed to have a dash harness for me, it will be much easier to work on in the house, then swap it out , and plug everything in.

[Dr_Snooz]

I predict that you're going to get this car all back together (eventually). Then when something breaks, you won't know where to find it. LOL

Glad to see you working on it again.

[1813mdw]

I predict that you're going to get this car all back together (eventually). Then when something breaks, you won't know where to find it. LOL

Could you imagine trying to buy this car lol? Anywhere you looked you'd be like "WTF?!"

You have def made this car your own, Lost. Keep up the good work

[lostforawhile]

I'm redoing the cover over the washer tank, as of now, I was going to anyway, the moon foot is my wife's foot rest, it's kind of crowded in the passenger foot well, but she is short, so it works just find for her, tall person might be an issue, but thats her seat

[lostforawhile]

I made this nice housing for the hour meter, still needs to be cleaned up, I dont have the manual gas door and hatch release levers anymore, so I may mount this where they would have been facing up, it's more of a reference not a gauge you look at very often

[lostforawhile]

Most of this mess will be shortened up, soldered back to the factory fuse box plugs, then it drops behind the fuse box and plugs in. The remainder goes back out the fender opening and back under the fender

You can see the back of the cannon plug at the firewall for most of the engine harness.

t's not centered but the cover for under the dash near the blower, the headlight retractor relays will attach to the back of it, as well as the relays for the alternator controls

the cover over the washer tank, and my wifes foot rest, I changed it from carpet covered wood to aluminum, need to redo the paint, all I had at the time was dual, and even after four hours it was still tacky, that paint sucks

had to put the rev control on top of the plate, as it has to be next to the box. with the glovebox in and the lower trim on, everything disappears from sight

[lostforawhile]

anyone got the plug off a carb alternator around?

[lostforawhile]

I found my original alternator plug, so I'm good on that, more stuff done.

This is part of the engine harness, I'm waiting on being able to get some more weather pack connectors, I sold some little junk on ebay, and got enough to pay for the thirteen bucks in connectors I needed. I still need both three pin to be able to hook up the alternators, and a couple of two pin ones.



Original alternator wire runs across the firewall to the junction block from it's contacter, as soon as I finish a few more things, everything is coming off the firewall and the holes will be filled, and it will be painted. It drives me crazy the way it looks now.




contacter for the original alternator, I have it electrically isolated when it's off, due to it sitting directly under one fuel bowl, it's only for emergencies. ignore the zip ties, trying to figure where everything is going to go.



wire from the alternator to the contacter, it doesnt have split loom yet, everything that can produce current is fused. I'm thinking of a nice two pin cannon plug for the brake fluid level wire, to go where the cruise cable would have been. I have a brand new bracket, found one on clearance at some honda dealer on ebay, paid about two dollars for it, replaces the old rusty one.



connector for the coolant sender, coolant pressure switch, and dizzy,everything has to be in here just right, so nothing melts on anything hot



stuff like this drives me crazy, the only fix I can come up with is to make that hose slightly longer, and use two links to clamp the two hoses together, the one is now too short anyway, as I changed the connector at the thermostat, the hose hitting the primary wire will have to curve slightly, and probably get a piece of firebraid over that section



more stuff to drive me nuts, everything has to be secured, and then I have to determine what hoses need to be covered etc, so nothing rubs on the harness, or another hose.


hoses for the evaporative system



terminal block at the firewall, the loose wire is from the primary alternator, it goes to an 80 amp fuse at that block. This let me bring together the battery wire, both alternator wires, and the starter cable



I'm going to run the chariot gauge datalogging system, it sends data to your phone via bluetooth, and an android app, logs oil pressure, vaccume or boost from an onboard sensor, battery voltage and temp, and wideband data from a controller, not bad for a 50 dollar board, the hard pipe has the bung for the temp sender welded into it, also gives me a fixed point between the radiator and engine. It's not painted yet.

[lostforawhile]

next step is to make sure every piece of harness is anchored in place, away from anything hot, moving etc, then I'll take a bunch of pictures of how it's routed, anchor points etc, it all then comes out for cosmetic work on that firewall, I really want to do something unique at that firewall, going to do some searching on really old school tricks, all extra holes will get filled then I'll figure out what to do

[Dr_Snooz]

Go Lost go!!! What comes after the firewall?

[1813mdw]

next step is to make sure every piece of harness is anchored in place, away from anything hot, moving etc, then I'll take a bunch of pictures of how it's routed, anchor points etc, it all then comes out for cosmetic work on that firewall, I really want to do something unique at that firewall, going to do some searching on really old school tricks, all extra holes will get filled then I'll figure out what to do

Are you gonna weld the holes on the firewall or use filler?

[lostforawhile]

Are you gonna weld the holes on the firewall or use filler?

they are mostly screw holes from past stuff, so they can be filled, the larger ones can get firewall plugs. I dont have any way to run 220 out there right now for a welder

[lostforawhile]

this part of the harness is almost done, I ran out of friction tape, and every place I look, it's discontinued, what? I know vinyl tape is nice, but when you are wrapping a harness the best thing to overwrap it with friction tape. this part of the harness covers both alternator controls, the underhood work light, the contactor for the backup alternator, back up lights,thermo switch for the evap system, distributor, coolant temp, coolant pressure switch, back up lights switch, other coolant temp sender for the data logging, other oil pressure sender for data logging. now to locate some friction tape in the original 3m dark blue,

[lostforawhile]

going to pull the jack for the cannon plug off the firewall next, and back trace everything with a meter, just to be certain it's all written down right, never hurts to double check, all the alternator wiring gets a sub plug off of it, for the alternator relays, you have to disconnect both 12 volt wires in plus the warning lamp on the factory alternator, or it will back feed voltage and continue to operate, same as on the civic alternator, but it has one field wire and a warning light bulb, I'm using relays pulled out of a nissan, have dozens of them now, they have a nice double pole, double throw one, one relay for each alternator, the warning light wire from each, goes to a double pole, single throw, relay, the light itself goes to the common, primary alternator warning light wire goes to the normally closed side, if I switch to the backup, power to it's field relay, energizes the relay for the warning light, and it switches to the backup, I did this because the alternator status wire is also important to the multi function box. by running a double pole single throw relay, it makes sure that the light can't be connected to both alternators at one time, since one would have a positive output and one a negative, this would blow the fuse.

[Dr_Snooz]

Is friction tape just electrical tape that doesn't get slimy?

[lostforawhile]

Is friction tape just electrical tape that doesn't get slimy?

no,it's really heavy stuff, you stretch it when you wrap it, it also protects the harness against a lot of crap. lots of oem harnesses have it wrapped around everything, it's sort of like grip tape but heavier,it used to be used instead of electrical tape, but it's still used to provide physical protection to harnesses

[Accordtheory]

I just scrolled through this and I have no clue wtf I just looked at. Lol

[gp02a0083]

harness tape can easily be found on mcmaster. Otherwise you can get super 33 and 88 without adhesive that has better conformity,higher blocking voltage per layer and use shrink wrap or the friction tape to bind it. I use non adhesive 33/88 every day in my lab in addition to silicone tapes on 600V+ systems at temps of 85C when I do my environmental testing. "positive" and "negative" output alternators?

[lostforawhile]

harness tape can easily be found on mcmaster. Otherwise you can get super 33 and 88 without adhesive that has better conformity,higher blocking voltage per layer and use shrink wrap or the friction tape to bind it. I use non adhesive 33/88 every day in my lab in addition to silicone tapes on 600V+ systems at temps of 85C when I do my environmental testing. "positive" and "negative" output alternators?

the charge warning light output, when the alternator is charging the output of that wire is positive, when it's not charging it's negative, I know I'm completely shutting down one or the other, but I'm running them through the relay that way to prevent any possible issues during changeover, I wanted to keep the warning light output anyway, even with a voltmeter, and the SDC heads up voltage warning, as the module that controls, the oil pressure warning light flash and other stuff, uses that as a reference to whether the engine is running, I was worried about the drag from the alternator that was off, but the hypermiling guys have shown, that an alternator with the field off, has almost no parasitic drag, it's common for them to switch their regular one off for extended periods of time. The reason I ended up with two in the first place, was the factory one happened to end up right under the fuel bowl of the drivers side carb, not a good place in case of a fuel leak. The factory one is now completely electrically dead, except if I were to switch it on in an emergency, I even have it isolated from battery with the contacter

[lostforawhile]

since it was already brought up, simple explanation as to how the charge warning light works, when the key is on, and the engine isn't started, the warning light bulb, will have 12 volts on one side, and negative on the other, from the blue/white wire at the alternator so the bulb lights, when the alternator is charging, the output of the blue/white wire changes to a positive voltage, this means there is +12 volts on both sides of the bulb, so it stays off. this same change also sends a signal to the ECU in fuel injected cars, the multi function box under the radio, and several other things, on the DX and LX cars it also powers the choke heater coil, and sends a signal to the control box for the carb,

[gp02a0083]

since it was already brought up, simple explanation as to how the charge warning light works, when the key is on, and the engine isn't started, the warning light bulb, will have 12 volts on one side, and negative on the other, from the blue/white wire at the alternator so the bulb lights, when the alternator is charging, the output of the blue/white wire changes to a positive voltage, this means there is +12 volts on both sides of the bulb, so it stays off. this same change also sends a signal to the ECU in fuel injected cars, the multi function box under the radio, and several other things, on the DX and LX cars it also powers the choke heater coil, and sends a signal to the control box for the carb,

Indeed this thread is a mess in general. Didn't ask about the charging light system, pretty aware of how it works via potential difference and the associated schematics for the OEM setup. IDK about what your looking at but for ALL OEM models the white/red wire leading from the voltage regulator of the alternator leads to the ECU, according to the factory diagram on pages 26-20 that traces down to page 26-24 where the connection terminates to the ECU. Yes the white/blu wire is connected to the choke heater on the carb'd models but also for All models it traces down to page 26-22 to the integrated control unit. On Carb'd models only this white blu also extends to the emission control unit on page 26-24. That is all the outputs of the alternator via the voltage regulator. By extension the only other components that are not part of the immediate alternator/ voltage regulator circuit is the speed sensor and the power door mirrors if equipped. would have been smart / proper to inspect,record, and test continuity of the harnesses prior to wrapping / insulating them Fyi.

[lostforawhile]

Indeed this thread is a mess in general. Didn't ask about the charging light system, pretty aware of how it works via potential difference and the associated schematics for the OEM setup. IDK about what your looking at but for ALL OEM models the white/red wire leading from the voltage regulator of the alternator leads to the ECU, according to the factory diagram on pages 26-20 that traces down to page 26-24 where the connection terminates to the ECU. Yes the white/blu wire is connected to the choke heater on the carb'd models but also for All models it traces down to page 26-22 to the integrated control unit. On Carb'd models only this white blu also extends to the emission control unit on page 26-24. That is all the outputs of the alternator via the voltage regulator. By extension the only other components that are not part of the immediate alternator/ voltage regulator circuit is the speed sensor and the power door mirrors if equipped. would have been smart / proper to inspect,record, and test continuity of the harnesses prior to wrapping / insulating them Fyi.

the red/white wire allows the ecu to lower alternator output, it's only on fuel injected cars, thats the fourth pin on the FI voltage regulator, dx,lx don't have this, on all the cars the ecu or carb computer can "see" the state of the blue/white wire it's just used as a status as to whether the engine is turning, EG the oil light flasher circuit that flashes the oil light in the event of a brief drop in oil pressure, it's dependent of the state of that wire so that circuit doesn't function until the alternator shows a charging state, the regular low pressure circuit functions regardless

[lostforawhile]

went out and put in part of my engine harness, dam humidity is awful, I had my big ass air mover on myself and still soaked with sweat, drizzled all day, humidity has got to be close to 100 percent. I had made up an assortment of mounting brackets at work, hole in one end for an existing bolt, and a welded on 10-32 stud on the other, for zip ties with mounting tabs. I knew about where the harness had to go, but had several designs of tabs to pick from, depending on where it ran, I'm obsessive about mounting wires right.




this one got made a long time ago and never got painted so it needs to be blasted

[lostforawhile]

these are mini relay boxes from late model Toyota corollas, they originally controlled the cooling fans, each has three relays and one flf type fusible link, I have one for each headlight, I'm only going to use two of the relays, I'll just run power to each one, and use a single fuse for the low and high beam on each side. the original headlight wiring will operate the relays. This takes all the current off the switch, for low and high beam. I've been trying to find some really small fuse boxes that had relays, these are really high quality OEM ones, and are easy to find. There are more uses for these then I can even list. I made a bracket to go on the radiator support on one side, and on the shroud for the oil cooler on the other, they fit in really nicely and look like something that could be OEM. I'll paint the tops with semigloss plastic paint, to get rid of the original logos

[lostforawhile]

all this is ready to go in, tucks into the quarter panel beside the back seat in the hatch, voice warning module, EQ and line level converter, all the speaker level signals run back to the converter then into the EQ, and the rear speakers tap off of it, then the left front speaker is routed from the head unit, through the voice warning and back up to the front. right now it goes to a single Sony that drives the sub, but i have the option of running another amp in the future for the front and rear, thats a shit load of wiring lol, but once it's taped in it will the same quality as OEM.