88 LX-i grinding noise when turning wheel

[skifreak]

Hello everybody,

What a great site! I have owned and done my own work on classic Accords for over 20 years (owned 2 2nd gens and currently own 2 3rd gems, a 4th gen and a 2006 Odyssey) and the knowledge base here is remarkable. So I do want to pick your brains about an issue.

My 88 LX-i makes a grinding noise from the front of the car when turning the wheel left or right. However, it does not do it early in the day, only as the day goes on. For example, I will go to run an errand in the morning, the car steers fine and makes no noise. I will take another short trip and it is fine, but if I continue to drive it, it develops a grinding noise from the front end when I turn the wheel. The wheel is also reluctant to center itself when I turn a corner and let go of the wheel and steering effort only very slightly increased. It makes this noise when stopped or moving. After sitting overnight, it will drive fine the next morning.

I have replaced most front end components: tie rod ends, rebuild the upper control arms, new shocks and springs, and have one CV joint that clicks and needs to be replaced soon. But I think it is either the power steering pump is letting air in the system through some leak as I drive or the power steering rack is bad. Both are original components.

Anyone else have this happen and what fixed it? Thanks for your help.

[conozo]

Since you mentioned that you can get it to do it when its stopped I would get a friend to sit in the car and turn the wheel back and forth. Then you listen where the noise is coming from using a screwdriver or preferably a mechanics stethoscope all over the power steering rack and the power steering pump.

[Dr_Snooz]

Probably power steering pump.

[skifreak]

I am hoping power steering pump since it is easy to replace. Power steering rack, that seems like a PITA. I was hoping someone out there has experienced the same symptoms and could tell me what fixed it.

[carotman]

Lower balljoint is going to give away soon.

Stop driving the car immediately. Replace the lower balljoint that's causing the grinding noise.

If you keep driving the car, THIS will happen:


You will be stranded on the side of the road and the repairs will probably be quite expensive
(CV joint, broken ball joint, CV joint, front fender, towing fees, brake line, etc)

[skifreak]

I found a bad CV joint on the passenger side and replaced that, but did not fix the problem, but it needed replacing anyways.

I have replaced the tie rod ends, the lower ball joints and rebuilt the upper control arms about 2 years ago. With the car on the ground and the car running, I turn the wheel and feel the grinding coming from the steering tie rod, but it is kind of hard to narrow down wether it is coming from the rack itself or the lower ball joint.

It makes noise when turning the wheel. When the car up in the air, it makes no noise, if that helps. No noise coming from the power steering pump. Makes me think it is the rack. Opinions?...

[Oldblueaccord]

I found a bad CV joint on the passenger side and replaced that, but did not fix the problem, but it needed replacing anyways.

I have replaced the tie rod ends, the lower ball joints and rebuilt the upper control arms about 2 years ago. With the car on the ground and the car running, I turn the wheel and feel the grinding coming from the steering tie rod, but it is kind of hard to narrow down wether it is coming from the rack itself or the lower ball joint.

It makes noise when turning the wheel. When the car up in the air, it makes no noise, if that helps. No noise coming from the power steering pump. Makes me think it is the rack. Opinions?...

It does sound like the rack is shuddering under load.

What does the fluid look like and is it full? You are using the Honda power steering fluid I hope.

Do a good front end check on everything. A split grease boot on anything you replaced and that joint can wear pretty fast.

[carotman]

When you jack the car, you remove the load from the lower ball joint. It goes from traction state to compression. I'm from the heavy salt belt area and I've seen my fair share of lower ball joints failure. Aftermarket ones are prone to fail after a short time.