damnnnn my ride wont start

[jigga225]

ok here's the deal. (87 Carb DX)
On come cold mornings when I'd start it after patting tghe gas 1 time, it wouldnt raise up and warm up like usual after I start it up, go back into the house and cook a op-tart.
- On those days, on the way to LSU, it would sputter all the way to work, I would get there too.

- Also sometimes, after drivin and then comin to a red light, the motor would just raise up real high all by itself and stay high, no matter if I tapped the gas.

- If I cut it off while ^ it would diesel
- would be hard to start after ^

- Now after sputterin all the way home she wont start. At least she brought me home tho. It just spins over,
-I'm gettin fire
- I poured gas down the carb and it still didnt start
- COuld it be the timing?

Aaah help. Now I gotta drive my sisters 93 EX

[shepherd79]

sounds like distributor problem to me. if you get gas in to the cilinders but there are no prark, i would say distributor or coil.
check them. you have find how to check coil in the haynes or chilton manual. same goes for distributor.

[Neuspeed87lx]

sounds like the exact thing that happened to me ... i think the plugs were bad eventually my car flooded so bad it wouldnt even turn over...so i took one of the plugs out and gas just poored out everywhere...a LOT of gas... i think there was something in the carb that was stuck and gas just kept poring in ...i rebuilt the carb and changed the plugs...she runs like a dream now...i dont even have to pump the gas on the cold mornings to get it to start...

[mowery]

"- If I cut it off while ^ it would diesel
- would be hard to start after ^"

Mine did the same thing. It was found to be a vacuum leak in the choke unloader diaphragm. Do a search on the phrase "choke unloader", and there's been numerous posts about this same problem.

[jigga225]

thanks for the help.
I know I'm geting spartk, b/c I checked the distrib. and the plugs.

I'ma work on it whis weekend b/c this is finals week and LSU is on my ass.

[A20A1]

I'm thinkin it's a vacuum leak as well... if it's not from the choke unloader, then check the vacuum lines that go to the distributor advance or the vacuum line to the idle diaphragm on the left side of the carb... you'll have to remove the air box to do the repair.

[jigga225]

no problem removin the air cleaner

when I take ^ off, where is the choke unloader and how do I know if its the culprit?
I dont know much about the carb/vaccum lines she been runnin so good for the past 3 years, all I have been doin is suspension and stereo/body/paint work.

[Greg]

These carb problems can be a bitch!

in the how-to section or the FAQs there are a couple REALLY good posts on rebuilding carbs/carb parts.

There are some diagrams that show all the different parts.

Here are 3 important ones:

1) Your "choke opener" is a diaphram that's on the front/Right side of the carb. It links to an arm that goes to a lever that pulls the choke open up to 45 degrees. This should get vacuum very shortly after the car starts up. If it doesn't open the choke 45 degrees, your car runs really shitty and you can smell it burning badly. It floods and might surge or die, depending on how much it will actually open.

2) Your "Fast Idle Unloader" diaphram Is up by the top/right/rear of the carb. It pulls the fast-idle cam linkage.

3) Your "Idle Dashpot" or "Idle Diaphram" is sort-of below the choke opener. It leads to your throttle linkage. Basically, if it's NOT getting vacuum, the arm that it attaches to keeps the throttle linkage set so the throttle plate stays open and the car would idle around 2000 rpm (if everything else is right). It sort-of slowly lets the idle drop when you throw the car in neutral or hit the clutch so the idle doesn't drop too fast. Then as it gets vacuum and pulls-off, it will allow the idle to remain at the lowest level that you adjust it to w/the idle adjust and throttle stop screw.

(please someone correct me if there is a minor mistake here. I'm not claiming to be the carb guru.)

Anyway, a vacuum leak could affect these diaphrams, and would screw up your idle. Check ALL vacuum lines carefully. If it's not a line then maybe one of these diaphrams is leaking, but in my experience they're pretty durable -- although I remember reading someone else's post about a diaphram developing a leak on their accord carb.

I'm guessing that you're getting a vacuum leak that is keeping your choke opener from opening, and you're getting too much gas.

Good luck with this and finals.

-G

[1989 DX R]

I'm having the opposite problem, my car starts ok, but the opener won't open, and the choke stays off for a while...and runs realllllly lean. Shakes like a mofo and isnt good at all.

[jigga225]

man what the HELL is that in your avatar

[1989 DX R]

It's a Domo-Kun. Some kinda Japanese thing.

[Greg]

"I'm having the opposite problem, my car starts ok, but the opener won't open, and the choke stays off for a while...and runs realllllly lean. Shakes like a mofo and isnt good at all."

Hey 1989 DX R:

This is not right. If your opener doesn't open, you're running too rich, and it'll stutter like a bitch. When choke plate is closed, you get less air, and you run rich, when choke plate is open, you get more air, and it runs more lean. When the plate is vertical and car is warmed up, you should idle a bit below 1000 if everything is right. If plate is open less than 45 degrees, you don't get enough air, you flood your cylinders, and it stutters and smells like shit because it's too rich.

[1989 DX R]

Mine stutters like a bitch, but the rpms are like...1000, when they should be 2000.

I think the vacuum that controls the choke is off...probably a leak. You're right, it probably isnt the opener.

[HondaBoy]

ive had that problem last week when its was cold. i started it when it was about 45 or 50 degrees. it was actin up. but after it warms up shes just fine. i think new spart plugs would do alot of good. especially wit my gas mileage. it doesnt even cost that much to do but i have just neglected to do it. i also need to adjust my lifters. they click alot.

[jigga225]

man mine wont even sputter. It just turns over and over, spinnin.
I am gettin gas( pump workin and I poured gas down carb) and fire (good spark)

and still nothin.
Man its been a week and i'm tired of drivin the damn volvo wagon and sisters 93 EX

oh well, I guess I'ma take it somewhere for somebody to try to shaft me. I dont like gettin f*cked over

[socal3rdgen]

have you tried to puch your coil in or do you think it might distruber. i was driving one day and i heard this "poof" and my engine quit i was like and after 20 min of trying to figure it out. i found out my coil came completyl of. it just popped the hell off. i duno just giving possible answer did you look at that.

[jigga225]

nah man not the coil cuz Im gettin fire to all the plugs.
Plugs are black by the way

[1989 DX R]

Too rich then.

[jigga225]

I changed the plugs and she fired right up.
All week for that. But I know its just a bandaid, I need to do somethin with this carb

[89 Accords Rock]

when that happens, just put the pedal to the floor and turn the car over. then stop and then pump the gas while turning over then all the way to the floor and the car should start. all it is is your a/f ratio. it should be fine. try replacing your plugs and distrubto should be fine after that!