replacing all drive belts

[running strong]

My belts squealed at me so i need to change them. The drive belts are showing wear, so I'm guessing the timing belt needs some love. I need some advice, this is my first time doing a timing belt. I have the Haynes manual but for some reason i don't think that the job is as easy as it sounds in that manual.

1. Should i replace the oil seals. I don't think that they are leaking. Should i buy them anyways and return them if i don't need them?

2. It sound like the water pump is externally driven. Is that true?
If i for go replacing it now then it breaks, how hard would it be to replace.

3. The Haynes manual doesn't say the direction of engine rotation. I may have missed it, but it states that the distributor rotates clockwise. Does that mean the engine rotates counter clockwise?

4. Once the drive belts are off, how hard is it to get to the timing belt from there?

5. What quality parts should i buy?
I was thinking about doing the gates timing belt, but going the lower quality belts for the other ones.
There are about 5 different crank and cam seals as well to choose from. One of each seems to have other hardware that i cannot identify and are like 25 bucks each.

I'm kind of pressed for cash, so any advice is greatly appreciated.

[Hazwan]

1) Always replace the seals as if it leaks later you'd be kicking yourself for not replacing it now while everything is out. Unless you don't mind doing the whole thing again

2) Water pump is driven by the alternator belt. Should be easier to replace it now when every other belt is off too

3) Correct. The engine rotates counter clockwise

4) Getting the crank pulley off might be a pain if you don't have an impact wrench but the rest is pretty easy. Its hidden behind the timing belt cover obviously

5) Can't help with the parts but other guys might have suggestions for you

[running strong]

Thanks for that info. For the seals. Here are the links to them. I can identify the seals, but what's all that other stuff and are they necessary?

Fel-Pro TCS45639-1 - Crankshaft Front Seal Set | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Fel-Pro TCS45620-1 - Camshaft Front Seal Set | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Also what are the easier ways to break the crank bolt. I was thinking that renting a garage may be my best bet.

[running strong]

I just saw a number of videos on YouTube talk about using a ratchet and the starter to quickly turn the engine over to break the crank bolt loose, but they were on clockwise motors. I don't think that this will work on my motor due to it rotating the opposite direction. Will this technique work?

[RAZR]

I just saw a number of videos on YouTube talk about using a ratchet and the starter to quickly turn the engine over to break the crank bolt loose, but they were on clockwise motors. I don't think that this will work on my motor due to it rotating the opposite direction. Will this technique work?

Thats how you start breaking stuff. Just use a impact wrench gets the bolt off everytime.

[niles]

Hopefully you have a local rental center where you can get the impact wrench. I pay around $10 to rent one for the day when I do timing belts or CV axles

[running strong]

I'm finally going to do this project this weekend. My timing belt kit will be in tomorrow and I'm excited to get this done. I can't find any indication of it ever being replaced. Before i start though i want to make sure i have all the tools that i will need.

1. The valve cover, timing covers and water pump all use 10mm bolts.is that correct?
Also why exactly to i need to take the valve cover off. The book says to remove it but doesn't tell me why.
2. is there a tool to hold the crankshaft still?
I saw one for rent at oreilly. It said fits most Honda engines and is 50mm. Does that sound right?
3. The crankshaft has a 19 mm bolt, is that right?
4. TDC. The camshaft clearly has the word up on it. The dizzy should be pointed at the number one plug wire. Accorthe final timing mark is on the flywheel. Where do i see this mark?
I assume it's through the window on the bell housing?
5. The book says not to move the crank or can while the belt is off. Any tips on keeping them still?
6. When putting it all back together, the Chilton manual tells me to put the belt on, tighten the tensioner, install the cover and crankshaft pulley, (rotate engine over twice to ensure we are not colliding) then to loosen the tensioner and rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise 3 teeth and tighten the tensioner.

I just want to make sure i don't miss anything, can be dangerous.
Other than the sockets and ratchets mentioned above, will i need any other tools, this stupid manual doesn't tell me sizes of bolts.
Any special tools that i need to invest in?

Thanks for the help everyone and if anyone has any tips or criticisms, let me have 'em.

[Dr_Snooz]

Not sure what you're working with, but if you don't have at least a basic mechanic's tool kit that includes a selection of sockets and wrenches, buy one. I always end up needing a bunch more tools than I expect to need and there is always a lot more stuff to remove than you'd really like to remove, along with all the stuff that is seized/broken/etc. This is a big job and lots things that you don't expect are going to come up. Fortunately, you can do a lot with very few tools on these cars. Just get a basic kit if you don't have one and add any special tools that come up along the way. You can get away with a very cheap kit but you can't get away with not having the tools you need.

The crankshaft and cam are both going to move, especially when you go to install the new belt. Just make sure you check both the crank (through the timing hole in the trans bell housing) and cam for TDC both before and after installing the new belt. Chilton's warning means that you shouldn't let your buddy run the starter while the belt is off. On an interference engine (these aren't interference), that's going to make a big mess.

The Chilton method of checking for interference is a belt-and-suspenders kind of thing and not really necessary. Just make sure to check both the crank and cam for TDC, both before and after installing the new belt.

[running strong]

Actually i have like 3, but for some reason i never have what i need. For example my 10 mm socket vanished. Watch I'll go buy one and then I'll find it, lol. I don't know who Murphy is, but maybe he should be shot haha. Thanks for the input Dr. snooz, i just wanted to make sure i don't need anything special that doesn't come in a normal tool set.

My biggest worry is the crank bolt. I live in an apartment, they are cool with me doing the work as long as i only use hand tools. Also i need to have it back together today or tomorrow. Would it be bad to try and break that bolt loose first, then give it enough torque to rotate the engine to TDC?

[HLW]

Strong, I always break the crank bolt lose first. Then I put it back in finger tight. When you break it loose, put the trans in 5th if it's a manual or park if it's an auto and turn the wheel all the way to the left and you can access the crank bolt.