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Thread: A few B20A Part prices

  1. #51
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    B20A from Canada

    I just happened to check in and look at the site. I am three bolts away from pulling my BT in the 86 Lude and putting in the B20A. I paid just under 3K US dollars for B20A w/ trans, head gasket kit, water pump, ECU and distributor still sitting in the crate. I have no problem scanning the money order to prove what I paid for it if you want to buy it plus shipping just so I can get my money back. If not, there is a story from who I bought it from. I gave them the money, the guy that sold it quit or got fired, and 4 months later after I went to the local paper, the shop finally sent what I paid for. Come back and let me know if you want me to send digital pictures and a scan of the bank check to prove what I paid for. If you are not interested, I am putting it in and beginning the journey of seeing if it runs without taking it to the machine shop and working through Yasu, Carrotman and Paul to get parts needed to overhaul it, not to mention shafts made for it. I have a 9 month old son and probably will deploy to Iraq in six months. I would rather sell, get my money back, rebuild the BT and sell the car.



  2. #52


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    I wish the best to you and hope you can get rid of it. Its a hard crowd to sell stuff to since most of them are younger and dont have the cash. If you need any help with any questions you have let me know i will do my best to help you out. Carotman is putting up a list of stuff only that we know works for sure on the B20A so their wont be any trial and error. I will be putting mine in for sure this spring/summer and im going to order my JDM parts soon if not within the next few weeks.

  3. #53
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    You and Yasu have been great with info. I will indeed post some help requests if I put this thing in, plug in the ECU and get nothing. Thanks for the research you have done, you have at least given me hope. When I started this, I had my hopes on the guy staying employed at location of seller to bring in whatever I needed to finish the job, but obviously that did not happen. Locally, I may be able to pull off the shafts, so really all that leaves is the alternator problem, providing the rest of it does not leak or there is major combustion problems. Thanks for the offer on continued tech help. If all works well, I hope I don't have to take you up on the offer, but if I do, please reach out to Yasu and Carrotman if you can. I will share everything we go through so everyone can benefit. Are you interested in seeing pictures?

  4. #54


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    Sure i wouldnt mind seeing pictures. The only thing i see being a problem right now if you were to drop it in and plug the ECU in is the wiring on the distributor will have to change. Yasu has info on that in his project post and as far as axles if you cant get a intermediate shaft you can just use the stock accord axles. And if you have the intermediate shaft you use two passenger side axles. And the alternator from the old motor works as far as i know and use a Automatic starter for the B20A the 5spd one dont fit.

  5. #55
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    so whats the prices on b20's themselves?

  6. #56
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    B20A work started

    Rob,


    Don't faint, but today I dropped the Gold B20A in my '86 Lude. The good news is that for the most part, the exception being the lower mount on the firewall side, it was for the most part a bolt in. The bad news is the bonehead scammers at Spi sold me the B2K5 bolted to the engine with no flywheel, flywheel bolts and clutch assembly with bolts. Since the starter port is open, because there is no starter, I can see inside to notice what is missing. So, as of right now, I have to get the lower mount, flywheel, clutch assy and I even need the three bolts for the distributor. They packaged a distributor in the crate with the engine, but not the bolts? Also, I can now see my BT Alt and Power Steering are definitely not going to fit. I am going to look at Yasu's thread again, but I thought he went through great pain to install the B20A5 stuff on the B20A. I just want the Alt. and Power Steer that are made for the B20A. Do you think that vendor from your parts thread would be a good source, or would you recommend somewhere else.
    I would be indebted if you could share this with Yasu.

    I saw the other thread on the flywheel dilemma, so what should I do? How do I figure out what flywheel and clutch fits the B2K5? The bolts for the dist. , fly and clutch will be easy. I took photos of the engine out of the crate and installed in my car. I would like to post them to the thread on a response but I can't figure out how this forum software is set up. Is there a frequent visitor that you know of that can talk me through it so I can share the pictures?
    Chris

  7. #57
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    one more item

    I forgot to add something. I am looking at the speed sensor, and one thing puzzled me when rebuilding my BT. Why is there a fuel line running through the speed sensor? I ask this, because I am looking for directions on what hole should be connected to the fuel line, and which one should be connected to the Transaxle Fluid cooling line that runs to the radiotor. Chiltons and Haynes were of no help, even for my BT. So, I am afraid what will happen if I connect the fuel source to the coolant line
    Chris

  8. #58


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    If im not mistaken that is for power steering fluid and i know for certain its not fuel. Im almost positive its connected to P/S somehow. I dont have my manual handy but its p/s not either of those two. The lines should be in the engine bay where the old speed sensor was connected or still is.

    You will need the JDM rear mount and you can order it from the place yasu found which i posted somewhere in this post from Osaka Japan but shipping is expensive as i recently found they charge about double what it should be.
    And you can use a 88-89 prelude B20A5 Flywheel and clutch you may need to grind the bell housing slightly look at Greggs post in this forum on his tranny rebuild. The A20A3 alternator is said to fit the B20A but the power steering pump wont unless you make a custom bracket. The belts and bolts are all minor and sure you can get them local from Honda and parts stores. But you main issue now will be the rear mount.

  9. #59
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    that is why it is red

    You are the man. I should have known why it was red. Ok, so one is definitely P/S and the other is fuel. Where in the world would I go to find out which one hooks up to P/S and which one is fuel? A20A3? The A20A5 is the USDM for 88-90 Accord, what is the A20A3?
    Chris

  10. #60


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    The thread about flywheels is here: https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=27316

    I paid $40 for the flywheel ('88 Prelude SI) from a local junkyard and they included the bolts (I asked and they threw them in). The flywheel bolts are kinda unusual so you might want to try and get them like I did rather than buying new ones from honda. I think the alternator is the same as any Accord LXi. The starter from an Automatic 3g Accord is exactly the same as the B20A (I verified this).

    Good luck man, it will be worth it in the end! :cheers:

  11. #61


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    I still dont know what your are reffering to with the fuel line. The only line you have for fuel goes to the fuel rail from the fuel filter then back to the tank from there. And A20A3 engine code is from the 86-89 Accord Fuel Injected models.

  12. #62
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    speed sensor

    The speed sensor has three holes in it. One is the speedometir cable, one for P/S and a third one, which I think is for fuel return line. What I am missing is a cross section of where the two fluid holes lead to in the speed sensor. I can tell it is mounted in the bell housing, but even with the transaxle out, you can see what the speed sensor guts are without removing it. I would have simply ran the same holes on the B20 now that it is in my car, but I now doubt if I had them hooked up right with my BT in.
    Chris

  13. #63


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    The speed sensor only has PS fluid running through it for sure i asked steve (88Lxi68) today to be sure because i knew he would know where they went since he just did his engine swap this past summer. So you better get a better manual probably the OEM HONDA Service book that shows you pretty much everything you need to know.

  14. #64
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    speed sensor

    ooohh, that is not good. Now I am concerned. Where would I be able to get one other than the dealership?

  15. #65


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    Im not sure what you did with the old lines for your old speed sensor? But i would do a post in the technical forum maybe someone can post some pictures to show you where they connect to. I have the Honda manual (not handy) but i dont have the time to get it and look through it right now. But i would do a post and ask for pictures if need be someone will know where they go i just dont remember off hand since i left my old speed sensor connected when i replaced my engine before.

  16. #66
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    New source for B20A water pumps and timing belts :http://www.japanparts.it/index.html

    Direct link to catalogue: http://www.japanparts.it/japan/INDEX.htm


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  17. #67
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    yea the speed sensor gose in a loop one power steering line gose in the other comes out and gose back to powersteering rack . i bet u wana know why well when ur doing a buck somthing the speed sensor cuts ur power steering cause at high speeds u dont need it at all and u probly have a carbed lude thats why u have extra fule lines all over the place
    and honestly plz dont conect any ful lines to the speed sensor cause gas will kill the seal and u will be fuckt

  18. #68
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    Can anyone direct me to a site or get me a number for a B20 and transaxle for an 86 Lx. any help would be great. Thanks

  19. #69
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    12:1 Compression ratio.....send me his info...I would consider that....would mod the internals anyways..

  20. #70
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    12:1 Compression ratio.....send me his info...I would consider that....would mod the internals anyways..

  21. #71
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    Re: A few B20A Part prices

    I have accord 88 EX 2L carb. Automatic, and i have some proplems with it so I need to change the moter with the transmission to 1.8L ...
    I need your help, what is the best motors would be berfect to my accord w/o any modification in the mounting or any thing, just to remove the old one and install the new one

  22. #72
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    Re: A few B20A Part prices

    Hey, Dane... I see your catalog there... But I can't find any timing belts on it for the Accord B20A. I also see that the part number for the B20A water pump you guys need is the 19200-PH3-010. Which is the same part number used on the 3G Prelude Carbed engine. So that should be readily available. If it's not, I can send them to whoever needs it. Also, what is the part number and dimensions on the timing belt in question? Or, would someone post a pic of the Unitta label on the belt and I'll read it myself?
    Visit us at www.valleyspecialists.com for all of your Honda and Acura Parts and Service needs!

  23. #73

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    Re: A few B20A Part prices

    Yeah the water pump can be bought locally. I haven't been able to find a 133 teeth timing belt so far.

    http://pages.videotron.com/omus
    3geez member since July 12 2000

    I need these parts!
    https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742

  24. #74
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    Re: A few B20A Part prices

    Hmmm.... I'm on it!
    Visit us at www.valleyspecialists.com for all of your Honda and Acura Parts and Service needs!

  25. #75
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    Re: A few B20A Part prices

    I use the 127-tooth gator belt (as opposed to I think the 128 tooth honda one, or maybe it was also 127), which is approximately what the gold top requires. As long as the distance between teeth is the same, the number of teeth is null. You could use a 150-tooth belt if you could make sure you get tension on it.

    I looked around, and couldn't find anything that would fit. At first. The belt is supposed to have 25mm between each tooth (or maybe it was 24.5? I forget. we figured it out at some point). So the gator belt I got is 31/32" It's damn close, and close enough so that when I put the belts next to each other, the devices of nature that God (or whatever) had bestowed on me could not tell the difference in the distance between teeth on the two belts.

    Autozone cross-referenced (as advance cannot) the distance between teeth (they just looked and found 31/32, and I said sure I'll try it, and voila, it works excellent)... and after tensioning it and firing, it's exactly like I wanted it to be.

    They may have a 31/32" honda belt with more teeth. It's worth a look. I can check next time I'm at auto zone, or anyone can even call and find out. Good luck.

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