Parts cross reference for SE-i proportioning valve

[Dr_Snooz]

I've had it with my SE-i prop valve always leaking. I've tried resealing it and tightening and over-tightening the flare nut fittings. Nothing works. I can't see anything obvious that would prevent a good seal, so I guess it's just old and needing replacement. I'd like to buy a new one, but those are hard to find. Does anyone know if a prop valve from a newer Accord would work? I know the 4g prop valve looks exactly the same. Wonder if I could use it instead.

[cygnus x-1]

You could *probably* use the 4g prop valve and it would be fine. What is unknown is if the front/rear brake bias will be the same. It should be pretty close since the 4g has a similar braking system and weight distribution. You would want to use a valve from a car that has 4 wheel disc though.

The other option would be to use an aftermarket prop valve, like from Wilwood. You would have to set the bias yourself, but it's not that hard to do. Basically you just want the front wheels to lock up before the rear wheels during a hard stop on dry pavement.

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[lostforawhile]

I know that the first generation teg used the same master cylinder as my 86, they are very close to being the same car dimensionally, so they probably use the same proportioning valve, the teg is rear disc

[Dr_Snooz]

Thanks guys. I'll probably try something from a different car and report back. Someday when I get the truck running again...

[gp02a0083]

SnooZ IIRC one of the guys across the pacific posted something a while ago on facebook regarding the rebuild of the prop valve and O rings needed and i think legend master did a rebuild. OEM Part # is 46210-SE0-E12 for the SEI. from what I can gather a G1 legend , late 80's prelude, or get the standard prop valve from another drum brake car. I think i have like 2 or 3 prop valves stored away , not sure if they are all SEi's or basic ones

https://www.3geez.com/forum/3geez-acc...ing-valve.html

[lostforawhile]

Snooze if I get a chance I'll go by oreilies and compare part numbers, I know the first gen Teg had rear discs and the same master as my Hatch, so I'll see if the proportioning valves have different numbers, I know all the fittings etc are in the same location on both cars,

[lostforawhile]

it looks like the 86-89 Teg proportioning valve may work, it might be easier to find then the Accord one, it's also the one they use when converting a crx to rear disc and larger front disc, with the same teg brakes, it's interesting that the stock master cylinder on the Accord and first Gen Teg is considered an upgrade when doing a brake swap to a CRX because it has a larger piston diameter. I'm thinking since that since that master and valve is so popular in the CRX community, that someone probably makes the valve aftermarket

[Dr_Snooz]

Thanks guys. I did the rebuild that Ecogabriel detailed. His was leaking in the main seam at the center of the valve housing. Mine is leaking at the flare line fittings, so the rebuild didn't help. I absolutely cannot figure out why they are leaking. I've tightened, over-tightened, opened them up and inspected them several times. Each time requires a full brake bleed, so it's a real b!tch. I had no idea that flare line fittings could spring leaks like this. I've already replaced one connection that was leaking at my rear calipers. It was where a flex line met a hard line. In that case, I replaced both sides of the leak but have no idea if the failure was in the hard line male end or flex line female fitting. In the case of the prop valve, it's easier to replace the prop valve than to tangle with the hard lines wrapping throughout the car. I will not be happy if I have to tear the car apart to replace the hard lines. I may just opt for some hillybilly jury rig fix before doing that. They have flare line couplings, so I could chop out the leaking fitting and replace it with a coupled in section.

A search for "integra proportioning valve" on eBay brings up a bunch of results, whereas "SE-i proportioning valve" yields nothing. Thanks for that heads up.

[Hazwan]

Speaking of leaks, I have 2 that leaks from the rubber plug (weep hole?) but otherwise working fine. I wonder whats up with that?

[gp02a0083]

As mentioned before I should have another SE-I valve and / or the standard accord one if needed.

Not sure if just cleaning up the flare and threads may help, adding the coupling couldn't hurt

[cygnus x-1]

It sounds like maybe the flares are damaged, either on the lines or on the valve itself.

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[Dr_Snooz]

I'll have to take pics of what I'm working with. I tried sanding the flares, but that only made things worse. Grrr.

[cygnus x-1]

I'll have to take pics of what I'm working with. I tried sanding the flares, but that only made things worse. Grrr.

No, that won't work. The pressure in the lines can be well over 1000PSI so even tiny flow paths can become significant leaks. The only way to fix the flares is to redo them.

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[Dr_Snooz]

Heard that. It's only that I'm not sure if the problem is with the flared hard lines or the seats in the prop valve itself. I can see indentations in the flare seats when I look inside the prop valve. I'm pretty sure that those don't exist on new units, so there's been some deformation there. I had no leaks until I did the rear disc swap, then I had several, wherever my old hard lines connected to the new-to-me SE-i hardware. I guess I'll have to replace the flare ends that I sanded, and any SE-i parts that are leaking. It would be nice to know more about how flare fittings are supposed to seal so I don't have this problem in the future. It makes me very reluctant to buy any more used SE-i parts in an effort to fix this. Hence why I'm wondering what other prop valves will work.

[carotman]

Any "4040" prop valve will work

The difference between the other valves will be the mounting bracket.

[MessyHonda]

im sure any 86-01 Integra prop valve would work. but sounds like you need to redo the brake lines with new flairs.

[cygnus x-1]

BTW, for anyone doing brake lines, I highly recommend the copper/nickel brake line over standard steel. It's softer so it's easier to bend and flare. In fact you can bend it by hand. It also doesn't corrode like steel line, which is nice for those of us in the rust belt.

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