TSW Mallory 4 wheels for 88 Civic don't fit??

[88Sleeper]

Hey Guys,

So I stopped into my local Discount tire to finally get around to buying a TSW Mallory 4 15" wheel to check fitment (it says it fits '88 Civic's, so I figured I might as well try before ordering a full set)

The guy at the counter called up the manufacturer, who proceeeded to tell him (& me) that he doesn't advise me ordering the wheel because I'll end up returning it since it doesn't fit.

The reason he gave us is that the civic is 4 x 100, and the accord is 4x 114, and therefore the wheel won't fit.. When I told them that the accords are 4 x 100 he persisted to say this time that the center bore of the hub isn't the same between the two.

Besides that TSW doesn't offer a single wheel for the Accords, I'm wondering if this is BS or what?

Here's some of the specs that they list:

Part Number	Size	Fitment	PCD	Offset	Finish	Qty Avail	Qty Bulk	Qty Transit	Load Rating	Seat Type	Tire Size
1565MAL404100B72	15x6.5	Front and Rear	4x100	40	Matte Black	14	0	0	1400	Taper	195/55-16
1770MAL404100S72	17x7	Front and Rear	4x100	40	Silver w/mirror cut (&Matte Black)	38	0	0	1800	Taper	205/40-17

[88Sleeper]

I found this posted on Honda-Tech, figured I could add it here as well:
(Thanks el_jelly on civic4g.com)

According to the posted size, ANY civic wheel should bolt on without the need of hubcentric rings on it, as long as it's 4x100 bolt pattern. Yes, no??

Acura Integra (all models) 1986-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nuts / 56.15mm Bore)
Chevrolet Spectrum 1986-1989 (4x100mm)
Daewoo Lanos 1999-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-bolt / 56.60mm Bore)
Daewoo Nubira 1999-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-bolt / 56.60mm Bore)
Dodge Colt (all models) 1993-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 67.10mm Bore)
Dodge Neon (all) 1995-1997 (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 57.10mm Bore)
Geo Prizm Base / GSI 1998-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 54.10mm Bore)
Geo Storm Base / GSI 1990-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 54.10mm Bore)
Honda Accord 1982-1989 (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug nut / 56.10mm Bore)
Honda Civic 80-2002-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 56.10mm Bore)
Honda CRX 1982-1993 (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 56.10mm Bore)
Hyundai Accent GL/GS/L 2000-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 67.10mm Bore)
Isuzu I-Mark 1985-1990 (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 56.10mm Bore)
Isuzu Impulse 1989-1992 (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 56.10mm Bore)
Isuzu Stylus 1991-1992 (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 56.10mm Bore)
Kia Rio Cinco Wagon 2002-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 56.10mm Bore)
Kia Sephia 1993-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 56.10mm Bore)
Kia Spectra (all models) 2000-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 56.10mm Bore)
Mazda Miata, MX5 1990-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 54.10mm Bore)
Mazda Protege DX/LX/EX 1990-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 54.10mm Bore)
Mitsubishi Mirage 1993-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 67.10mm Bore)
Nissan Pulsar, Sentra 1986-1999 (4x100mm / 12x1.25 Lug-nut / 59.10mm Bore)
Nissan 200 SX 1995-up (4x100mm / 12x1.25 Lug-nut / 59.10mm Bore)
Plymouth Neon 4-lug 1994-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 57.10mm Bore)
Saturn SC, SL1, SL2, SC2 1991-up (4x100mm / 57.10mm Bore)
Suzuki Esteem 1995-up (4x100mm / 12x1.25 Lug-nut / 54.10mm Bore)
Toyota Celica 1986-1991 (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 54.06mm Bore)
Toyota Corolla 1996-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 54.06mm Bore)
Toyota Echo 2000-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 54.06mm Bore)
Toyota MR2 1986-1990 (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 54.06mm Bore)
Toyota Paseo 1994-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 54.06mm Bore)
Toyota Tercel 1989-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-nut / 54.06mm Bore)
Volkswagen Golf GL/Cabriolet 1985-1998 (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-bolt / 57.10mm Bore)
Volkswagen Golf Cabriolet 1988-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-bolt / 57.10mm Bore)
Volkswagen Golf III Cabriolet 1999-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-bolt / 57.10mm Bore)
Volkswagen Jetta GL/Carat/GLS/GLI 1981-1998 (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-bolt / 57.10mm Bore)
Volkswagen Rabbit (all models) 1979-up (4x100mm / 12x1.5 Lug-bolt / 57.10mm Bore

The wheel you put in the car has to have a center bore equal or bigger than the stock bore diameter of the car. If the wheel center bore is smaller than the stock bore, the wheel has to be machined to make it bigger. If the wheel center bore is much bigger than the stock center bore it's recommended that you use adapter hub-centric rings to make it seat properly, although most of the lugnuts center the wheel to the lug so it's not so necessary (unless the wheel center bore is a lot bigger).

[Dr_Snooz]

I would probably keep looking, myself. The company would much rather sell you a set of wheels than not. The phone rep remembers that the wheels don't work with Civics, but probably can't remember exactly why. He has a lot of wheels to keep track of, after all. You can buy the wheels and find out why they won't work, or simply take it on faith that they won't. In the past, I've tried to make wheels work on a car they aren't designed for. It's just a lot of pain and expense, trips to tire shops for various wobbles and shudders, wheel alignments and balancings, centering rings, etc. etc. etc. It ends when you return the wheels and have a big fight with the vendor. It's not worth it.

[Oldblueaccord]

TSW makes junk unsafe wheels. Do a little research. There some lawsuits out there.

I know they look good.

[88Sleeper]

TSW makes junk unsafe wheels. Do a little research. There some lawsuits out there.

I know they look good.

*adds drama* "WHY MEEE!!!" yeah, that's why I wanted them. I love the way the Bronzed Ford Focus wheels look on the new ones, but I didn't want to go out and buy the same actual wheel

I would probably keep looking, myself. The company would much rather sell you a set of wheels than not. The phone rep remembers that the wheels don't work with Civics, but probably can't remember exactly why. He has a lot of wheels to keep track of, after all. You can buy the wheels and find out why they won't work, or simply take it on faith that they won't. In the past, I've tried to make wheels work on a car they aren't designed for. It's just a lot of pain and expense, trips to tire shops for various wobbles and shudders, wheel alignments and balancings, centering rings, etc. etc. etc. It ends when you return the wheels and have a big fight with the vendor. It's not worth it.

Yeah, you're probably right. The guy I originally talked to at my own Discount Tire didn't see a problem though, aside form the offset being +40 instead of +45, which is why I believed they would work. Other than that, there's really nothing different between our Accord wheel fitment needs, and those of an 88 civic, or am I wrong on that?

I appreciate your guys input too, Thanks!

[MessyHonda]

i never ran into a wheel i could not use from a civic. He thinks you have a 4th gen accord when the lug pattern went to 4-114. when i buy wheels i try to get the most lightest wheel i can afford. I have Traklite wheels and they are 4-100 10.9 LBS each for 15x7 Et 35. lost about 30 pounds from my Civic Si's and i can tell in acceleration.

[lostforawhile]

take the advice from guys here, I've went to order parts for my hatch, and had a counter guy argue with me that they didn't come with a 2.0 but only a 1.8, not many people outside of the community know ANYTHING about these cars

[88Sleeper]

take the advice from guys here, I've went to order parts for my hatch, and had a counter guy argue with me that they didn't come with a 2.0 but only a 1.8, not many people outside of the community know ANYTHING about these cars

I am not even going to argue with that because I've gotten the short end of the stick on that quite a lot... I also get asked "Why do you want to fix it" as well. There are cool people out there though that are glad to help out, since it means more work for them as well

Anyways I'm still looking for a set, but it's been put on hold for a little while. My "just replace my front bearing which died" turned into "Rip everything from underbody, front sway bar-to-back of car, and Rebuild everything"

Although this is off-topic for this thread, do you guys recommend scraping off the old underbody sealer from the car (the rubber stuff) cleanning it, re-spraying it with enamel paint, and then re-coating the rubber spray?

Or just adding more rubber undercoat to what's there? The deal is I've got rust coming in from the outer frame rails (I think the're the only frame rails, but I can't remember (been a few weeks since I've been under there)) and I'm worried that I need to at least slow it down from reaching the floor pans themselves. The rest of the undercarriage is actually fine for the most part, considering the Colorado & Idaho road salts it's been in for 16 years now...

I got 8 quarts of 3m underbody Schutz that I'm going to spray on (I was aiming for 4 coats, since the rubber is peeling in the wheel wells [no rust there though, W00T!])
Should I put together a how-to or picture deck for other's to look at, in case they're interested? I'm trying to take pics as I go, best I can.