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Thread: car has problems starting

  1. #1
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    car has problems starting

    ok first of the check engine light is not on as of NOW. so please dont ask me to check m error codes becuase if the check engine light is off then the ecu wont throw codes. now to the problem

    i had been driving for 15 mins = engine is warm. i go in a store for 3 minutes, come back to the car and try to start. crank crank crank crank. nothin. crank crank crank then it starts to start then bogs then goes back to off. now at this point i notice that when i turn my key all the way to where it is supposed to turn my fuel pump on, it just leaves the check engine light on. and doesnt shut it off like its supposed to. while its in this position i push the key into the ignition (mind you i already had it in i just wanted to see if it was just shorting out.) and then i hear a click and my check engine light flashes then comes back on. so i take the key out then put it pack in and then my car starts. now as another members water pump just died on him after a year of failing i dont want to be stranded. i cant wait for it to do it again then read the code because then i will be stranded. can anyone help me with this.thanks
    ACT Stage 1, Short Ram Intake & 2.25 Dynomax custom catback w/4inch carbon fiber tip. Thats it for now.

    Putting the paint back on after

    SOMEONE STOLE MY PAINT!!!!!




  2. #2
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    bump
    ACT Stage 1, Short Ram Intake & 2.25 Dynomax custom catback w/4inch carbon fiber tip. Thats it for now.

    Putting the paint back on after

    SOMEONE STOLE MY PAINT!!!!!


  3. #3


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    Don't know if this is related, but if I'm driving around a bit and park for a second, my car won't start up again for a few minutes. Also, the thing you described (starting car, bogging then turning off again) has happened to me before, but that was when it overheated. Maybe a cooling related problem?
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  4. #4
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    i think this was something mentioned in another thread, "starter problem". i have the same problem too. like if i take a short trip somewhere, ie- gas or store. then try to start it up again, nothing happens. i think they said something to do with the ignition or something.

  5. #5
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    Probably ignition switch. Next time it happens, remember to read the code. I'm pretty sure it'll happen again

    If not, then maybe the TW sensor.

  6. #6
    3Geez Veteran ACCORD EX's Avatar
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    main relay ??

    MIKE
    3geez member since October 4th 2001

  7. #7
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    could aslo be that your plugs aren't all firing and causing a minor flooding....could also be bad rotor button or distributor cap...both can be buggy on short trips I have noticed.

  8. #8
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    Originally posted by dirty89lx5sp
    could aslo be that your plugs aren't all firing and causing a minor flooding....could also be bad rotor button or distributor cap...both can be buggy on short trips I have noticed.

    would this have anything to do with my pgm-fi light coming on though.
    ACT Stage 1, Short Ram Intake & 2.25 Dynomax custom catback w/4inch carbon fiber tip. Thats it for now.

    Putting the paint back on after

    SOMEONE STOLE MY PAINT!!!!!


  9. #9

    AZmike's Avatar
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    I've got the same problem. If it was ignition wouldn't it have trouble running correctly once started? Mine has trouble starting sometimes, but seems to run fine.
    Mike

  10. #10
    3Geez Veteran AccordEpicenter's Avatar
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    Could be one of ur temp sensors, it can make the car difficult to start when hot
    429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*

  11. #11
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    Hi I had similar problem sometime and was doing a search and came up with this. It sounds like most of this Short-Stop syndrome is due to a partially failed main-relay.
    Look at following site It just describes symptoms like yours

    http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howto/elec...main-relay.htm

    Hope this helps. Let us know.

    MVK
    mvk

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  12. #12

    AZmike's Avatar
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    I think I may have fixed mine. It's been ok for about a month now. I sprayed some contact cleaner on the TW sensor clip on the thermostat housing. Mine looked a little corroded. I've got a new clip for the junk that i'm going to solder in when I get a chance. That's also something you may want to take a look at.

    Either way, I bet it has something to do with your temp sensors. I swapped out my relay with no change until I did this.
    Mike

  13. #13

    Mike's89AccordLX's Avatar
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    Might be the main relay.

  14. #14
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    Originally posted by 89LXi4dr
    I think I may have fixed mine. It's been ok for about a month now. I sprayed some contact cleaner on the TW sensor clip on the thermostat housing. Mine looked a little corroded. I've got a new clip for the junk that i'm going to solder in when I get a chance. That's also something you may want to take a look at.

    Either way, I bet it has something to do with your temp sensors. I swapped out my relay with no change until I did this.
    my sending unit has been fucked for months
    ACT Stage 1, Short Ram Intake & 2.25 Dynomax custom catback w/4inch carbon fiber tip. Thats it for now.

    Putting the paint back on after

    SOMEONE STOLE MY PAINT!!!!!


  15. #15
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    Main relay.
    mvk

    1988 Accord Lxi
    A penny saved is 3 pennies earned.

  16. #16
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    I'd say the main relay also

    I seem to recall a repair how-to here for that relay. I read lots of troubleshooting stuff to keep my brain up to date and that main relay is always mentioned in your scenario.

  17. #17
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    Malfunction main relay does not give out ECU code!!!
    socal3rdgen, did you check your ecu code? Doesn't matter if the engine light is not on on the dash or not, as long as you didn't pull out the ecu fuse or battery terminals the code should still be there.

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