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Thread: getting burned

  1. #1
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    Angry getting burned

    Hey what's up...I'm sure you guys are tired of my newb posts...but those who have responded have been extremely helpful and thank you. First off I'm taking my '89 LX 5 sp to the honda dealer here and having them run a diagnostic on the whole car...It's going to run me 35 dollars but I feel safe that they will be able to tell me exactly what is wrong and right with my car so'z I can know my options...my question is how much is involved in getting a new (to me) engine from a junkyard or something...is it worth it...or if whatever they can find can be fixed...how much is too much to pay for mechanic work on a car...I have an extremely tight budget (read tight enough to turn coal to diamond overnight). I'm willing to dump up to 3-400 hundred into it at a swath...but I fear the worst....I looked up and found that it seems only A20A1's are in '89 accord LX's and they are carbed...I could be wrong...but I can't seem to find any info under the hood...I really am that much of a newbie...any suggestions or words of wisdom are extremely appreciated as I am so frazzled with worry over my poor 3g.:bh:



  2. #2
    drop in any 86-89 accord motor in there and you're good man, it's just how much trouble you're willing to go through. Since you have a 5 speed LX the easiest swap would be to get the motor from ANY 86-89 motor with a carb, if you get an LXi/SEi motor oyu're going to have to change a few things, even if you keep using the carb.

    You can grab a carb from the u-pick yard for around $30
    oh and $35 sounds kind of cheap to me, i don't know how thorough they are going to be, most mechanics around here would probably charge twice as much.
    Eric
    3geez member since October 12, 2000
    "All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau

  3. #3
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    Figure at least 1 grand for a used low mileage engine/ (tuneup/timing belt/water pump/thermostat)/rear main seal etc/ possibly new clutch etc/hoses may need replacing etc. Is it worth?...I'm having this done by my mechanic 92,000 mi 180 day warrantee on engine from the supplier. My engine has a cracked block from a nasty episode of overheating originating from a cracked hose. It's a long story... along with a new radiator $300

  4. #4
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    I'm actually hoping to avoid the new engine route all together...basicall from what I can tell you is that the car idles roughly at initial start up...I can smell fuel a bit....the rought idle (1200-1600) continues till it sets it's cold idle at 3000 then I can push the pedal and it resest down to 1k....it wavers a bit at 1k and then when I do anything else...apply brakes...headlight...heater...the idle drops to about 800...Now whilst it is sitting...I hear a "pop" from the back end and the valves clack loudly the whole time...umm what else....oh yeah did I mention the smoking? Whafting oil burning for the first 5-8 min at startup then disappears until it sits for 8 or mor hours....when I put my hand near the exhaust...it feels quite damp...

    Where the heck do I start to fix anything?!?

  5. #5
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    any suggestions?

  6. #6
    3Geez Veteran dXsquared's Avatar
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    well it has syptoms of running rich and running lean... the pop is a backfire... that is usually cause from lean mixture... and the wet exhaust and the gas smell is from rich ness... the oil is probably a combo of things that will basically need a rebuild to fix. i would sugest a rebuild or a new motor... that will solve all ur problems!

    Travis
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  7. #7
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    Which is the cheaper way to go?!?

  8. #8
    3Geez Veteran dXsquared's Avatar
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    i would say that a rebuild with a weber carb would be the best way... about 700 bux if u know how...
    if u dont know how to tear apart a motor, then i guess it will be closer to 1200... but i know that if u can or want to rebuild it ur self... with a weber instead of the shitty stock carb, it will be at least 700 bux!

    Travis
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  9. #9
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    Yowza! what about just tuning up my carb and driving the hell out of it? Until I can save the money for a new engine...or rebuild? I wonder how long I have? Maybe we should start a betting pool after I get the specs from the diagnostic...giving me 1/4 of the proceeds to go towards rebuilding my engine or purchasing a new one...I was just looking new about 1200 bucks for the engine....If i went to a junk yard...how can I tell if one of those engines are good?

  10. #10
    3Geez Veteran dXsquared's Avatar
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    i would get a parts car that runs strong, but needs other shit then just swap motors... thats waht i did...

    Travis
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  11. #11
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    did I mention

  12. #12
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    buy the whole car? or can I find in junkyard?

  13. #13
    3Geez Veteran dXsquared's Avatar
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    u can find it in a junk yard, but if u cant fire it up and see how it runs, it is more risk! the best way to get a motor is witht the whole car and take it for a test drive! then u can see what it does when u stomp on it or what ever...

    Travis
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  14. #14
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    right on....hmmm.this all sounds so shitty...how long can a car like mine as described above...provided I adjust the lean/rich on my carb can run? at least until I save up a sizeable chunk of change?

  15. #15
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    http://www.jspecjdm.net/oem.htm

    I found this for 600....hmmm I wander what it cost to put in?!? I just need a lottery ticket...that's all just 10-15 mil and I'd be happy!

  16. #16
    3Geez Veteran dXsquared's Avatar
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    that looks ok... i would sugest gettin a Weber carb when u get a new engine as it will help tunig... i think u have a lot of miles left... just cuz it runs shitty, dont mean it will die... but i could verywell die tommorow... so just tune the carb and hope for the best!

    Travis
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  17. #17
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    yeah...either way I'm stuck spending money on it...I guess do some minor stuff ...use it for around town...save about 1500....keep looking for new (or good used engine aroun 400-900 and try to find someone competent to put it in....I hate being "grown up" . You work and work and work and you barely make any head way!

  18. #18
    3Geez Veteran dXsquared's Avatar
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    sorry u feel like that... i think you could kill alot of ur problems by installing a Weber carb... u loose all the vac lines adn u get a brand new carb! b4 i put the new weber on, i had backfire and miss problems and it was runnin real shitty! i put the new carb on and BOOM! it works fine!

    Travis
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  19. #19
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    is it expensive? and is it worth it if the engine farts on me? Can I do this myself? I have only minimal experience with mechanics...changed cv joint...oil...plugs...valve cover gasket...just little things....

  20. #20
    3Geez Veteran dXsquared's Avatar
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    if u have changed a CV joint... u can change a carb!
    and if the engine takes a shit, put it on the next one... they are 350 bux approx.

    Travis
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  21. #21
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    Sell the car, buy a reliable, ECU code-free Accord LXi...

  22. #22

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    Originally posted by DXHATCHBACK
    well it has syptoms of running rich and running lean... the pop is a backfire... that is usually cause from lean mixture... and the wet exhaust and the gas smell is from rich ness...
    Well that explains it then. I need to make the air/fuel a little more rich. I didn't know if I was tuning it right or not. Thanks a lot DXHATCHBACK

  23. #23
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    If I wanted to check ECU codes on my car where would I look?!?

  24. #24
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    If your running total rich mixture(bad carb) gasoline can get into oil. To check for this: Pull dipstick out,try to ignite the oil on stick with flame ....if it lights up.....you have bigtime fuel mixture problems this could be good....then alll you need is a carb and tuneup.

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