1989 Honda Accord LXI Coupe - Oil Leak where? also Electrical and A/C issues

[steve520]

Hi everyone I am new here and am also new to this car and this type of maintenance. I've always been able to change my own fluids and change tires but am really not that experienced with cars, but I really want to learn and figured this car would be a good car to learn from. I assume the leak is coming from the valve cover because when I bought the car that is what the owner said but not sure if he was leading me on or telling me the truth. As you can see from the video It smokes where the intake manifold is and there is clearly oil that is getting down there. It looks like its not leaking too bad but there is a leak for sure. On to the electrical issues driving at night The headlights came on and everything functioned but then i noticed the Instrument cluster lighting would end up going dead for a second and then come back to life. Don't know if it would be more wise to check the alternator first or maybe something in the instrument cluster itself first. As for the A/C the owner said it has been converted over to r134 but said there is a leak somewhere. I have no clue where or how to check what hoses would be leaking. Also any suggestions would be helpful with the problems or anything someone hears in the video. It sounded like it was running good but i'm not sure. Takes a minute for it to idle down. Appreciate the help thanks!

Also can anyone tell me what hose goes near the air intake you can see in my video apparently im missing one there don't know what it is and what it goes too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DX9ZF8MIPr0

[Dr_Snooz]

The valve cover gasket is a good place to start. It's prone to leaks and not too difficult or expensive. For the lights,I'd check the operation of the dash light dimmer switch. Just take the A/C to the shop and let them deal with it.

[steve520]

Sounds like a plan with the A/C system I wouldn't have a clue where to start. Any clue about that hose from the manual it looks like it is the hose going to the resonator from the air filter? Just wondering how big of deal that is and if its worth going to a scrap yard and yanking one off. I will check the dimmer switch today. Just wanting to get it running good. The car is in not too bad of shape and has low miles and the previous owner had a bunch of service records with it. Thanks for the help snooz.

[gp02a0083]

x2 with snooz, looks like the valve cover and as mentioned it does tend to leak often. if you have smoke / oil drip on the back side onto the exhaust it usually tends to be the oil filter base gasket. As for the A/C if you do not have the knowledge or correct tools i'd advise against it for a newbie. I've heard too many stories of people incorrectly charging the system. I would just poke around the forums to see if you have a denso compressor before having the system serviced. The keinhin compressor does not take well to the 134a conversion. I agree with snooz, check out the dash dimming unit and work from there, could be as simple as a new unit to fix the issue or a little bit of tracing down a potential short. I wouldn't worry about that part off the intake piping, really does nothing except acting as a baffle for the intake noise or something

[steve520]

Yeah im replacing the valve gasket when it arrives here. It doesn't look like to tall of an order of someone new to this as i am. As for the dimmer switch i'll have to look into it. As for the A/C i'll have to do some searching to determine how to tell which type I have, from what i've read the Keihin is the worst. Good to hear about the intake piping thing I was wondering what was missing off that good to know its not really important. Thanks for the help guys i'll let you know how if the leak stops after cleaning it all up and replacing the gasket.

I'm looking through the manual is there any other way to tell if I have the Nippendenso or the Keihin type? Is it labeled or from what i've read the only way to tell is from the brackets?

[steve520]

Ahh shit looks like i might have that stupid Kehin A/C compressor it has the same 4 Allenwrench bracket on top as it does in the A/C Faq thread. But supposedly mine was already converted maybe thats why it sprang a leak because those compressors can't handle it? Either way looks like i might need to invest in a Nippendenso. Well i found cans of R-12 here pretty cheap only 17 dollars for a 12oz of R12 but if its been converted can i even use it?

[gp02a0083]

I would personally hold onto that R-12 as an "investment", ive seen that stuff for ridiculous prices within the vintage muscle car scene like $30+ a 12oz can! I would convert it over to denso compressor and keep it 134 from now on. If you went R134 to R12 you need to flush the system well, the oil used to r12 does not play nice with the newer 134 stuff.

[steve520]

Hmm I found an 1989 Accord at a UPullit near me. I don't know if it has that compressor but i met check it out. Do you think I can handle taking it out by myself? Is it a hard job and do you have to get underneath for anything?

[Dr_Snooz]

You should really have a shop look at it before you do anything. "Leak" could mean a pinhole that requires filling only once per season. It could also mean a gaping hole in the condenser. It could also mean a bad fuse and no other problems. It's hard to know what, if anything, needs to be done until someone puts some gauges on it. If the 134 conversion was done and worked with the Keihin, I'd rock it until it fails. Which shouldn't take long. LOL

[steve520]

Probably what im going to do rock it till it fails. Shops don't charge much to check leaks because im kind of on a budget.

[gp02a0083]

Do the leak check yourself, grab a black light and look around. Most of these refrigerant oils and stuff have a uv dye. the swap over isn't hard at all to do, if you got a picknpull go grab the compressor bracket and high / low side lines. Also don't forget to snag the ipper manifold part of the compressor, i've never got one with a rebuilt unit. I recall it only took a few hours to convert and have the system up and running again after the conversion.

as snooz mentioned the leak could be a number of things and the Kehin is known for failing with the 134 refrigerant. it could last a few weeks and fail and on rare occasion from here on the forum a few guys were lucky and had it last a year or two.

[Oldblueaccord]

Im thinking the mounting bracket goes with the ND compressor as well. If you grab it grab it all.

[gp02a0083]

Oldblue, yes the denso compressor bracket is needed. As mentioned before also snag that manifold on the compressor

[steve520]

Sounds good thanks for the help fellas.

[steve520]

Well update the A/C in the other Accord was also a Kehin not planning on replacing a broken compressor with another lol oh well. I replaced the Valve Cover Gasket and looked great cleaned the areas of excess oil and stuff of where it went and didn't see a drop. New problem i'm still getting alot of smoke coming from the exhaust manifold in the front. I think that maybe alot of oil from the previous owner leaked in down into it and that is why it is still smoking, or could this be a new problem i'm facing? I don't know if it will take a while to burn off or not but im going to let it run next time, just hope its not power steering fluid. I'm wondering if it is difficult to identify a leak though is it hard to take off the exhaust manifold or is it just those bolts on the front because I have a pressure washer and can use that to clean off the stuff that leaked down there.

[Dr_Snooz]

The only other seal that would be remotely close to the exhaust manifold would be the distributor seal.

[steve520]

i'll check that seal out i'm thinking it was just the old oil burning off though i'm going to let it run and hopefully it stops smoking. Any idea what the little rubber piece goes right above the Engine Identification code? It fell off somewhere in the engine bay and have no clue if its important or not?

Update: Checked the distributor seal and around it looked good except for a little oil build up but i suspect that was from the valve gasket as it has been bone dry since i changed it thank god. I started it up again got it up to temp and of course it started smoking looks like its just an oil build up from where the old owner just left it. Im going to pressure wash around the area its smoking in and hopefully it will go away. I'm shocked to say the Kehin compressor actually looks like its functioning properly which is weird still havent searched for a leak i'm going to be getting the can with the dye in it soon and try and find it myself hopefully its not compressor once again thanks for the help.

[Oldblueaccord]

I have had the power steering hose that runs across the exhaust manifold drip a little on it and make smoke once in a while.

[Dr_Snooz]

It's also possible that the valve cover is bent.

[steve520]

Getting ready to put the A/C in and noticed that the gauge is reading 0 psi. Is that normal for a car with no A/C to be having no pressure or does that mean something is wrong with the compressor? I figured it would at least have some sort of pressure.

[steve520]

Well did the recharging thing and had the psi where it should be got in it was blowing semi-cold and then it went right back to hot and the compressor clutch isn't engaging again. It was engaging when i was recharging but it seems like it wont right after i tried it.

[Dr_Snooz]

What were the gauges showing?

[steve520]

Nevermind i got the A/C working shocking that it the compressor is still kicking couldn't find the leak but im going to see how long it last hopefully it will get me through the summer thanks everyone.

[steve520]

Hey guys back here again. Turns out the A/C wasn't holding all pressure leaked out still has about 10psi but you can tell its leaking. Any common leak places to replace or look for I think it might be from this retrofitted schrader valve but im not sure. Also what is the normal idle for this car. It naturally starts hight around 2k. Then comes down but even full warmed up the best im getting is 1250rpm. I thought the idle should be somewhere around 800. Idk help would be appreciated again you guys are amazing this site has helped me out so much.

[Dr_Snooz]

In general, the leaky spot will have a wet oily spot around it. Factory spec for the idle speed is around 850 rpm, but things are much smoother when you keep it closer to 1000.