Since posting on other supercharger threads here, I have been advised to start my own with pictures. I am planning, and will start posting photos tomorrow.
Here is just my current engine setup:
A20a1 carbed block, rebuilt head with stock valves
bisi double valve springs on intake & exhaust
Busi adjustable cam gear @ +2 advance
New $250 distributor ($150 model would die when I cornered) & coil from the Zone @ full advance (produced highest manifold HG)
stock metal airbox bored out for 38mm WEBER
All environment equipment in place for smog (passed & will have to be removed with intake manifold for this build)
Pace setter headers with stock oxygen & wideband oxygen for cabin guage (OBX leaked too much & pissed off my gf)
Hi-flow cat, 2.5 exhaust, and obnoxious racing muffler...not at all ricer, I sound like a camaro & will probably swap in an adjustable valved muffler
Bought an Sc14 supercharger from Japan, in good shape, electronic clutch & dipstick (contrary to online sources)
Ordered a used stock intake manifold- same price as pick & pull (waiting on this, then the pictures will be uploaded)
The plan (pics coming soon):
I will start by fabbing up a pulley with the same pattern as the supercharger's to fit on the water pump pulley, either welded on, or bolted on to the water pump pulley. This will clear the edge of the engine bay without interference.
This way, the supercharger can be mounted standing up in its original position (i conclude by the dipstick placement) with the pulley aligned to the pulley on the water pump. I will then seek out a proper belt & tensioner.
Using the environmental equipment boltholes on the new & stripped intake manifold, I will fabricate a bracket to hold the supercharger in place atop the manifold. I will also cap the spot where the egr valve was with an aluminum plate.
I tested, and found that the supercharger flows from the front of the car to back in the above mentioned position. This is done by covering the i/o ports with a lint-free paper towel & spinning the pulley in the intended position, noting the movement of the paper towel. A good supercharger will make this test obvious.
The supercharger came with one of its pipes with a flange that will fit either in/ out ports. This is too heavy.
I have lots of fiberglassing equipment, and will be recreating the piping straight from the back of the supercharger, straight down to the intake manifold.
ANYONE KNOW IF IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO CUT OUT THE DIVIDER IN THE CARB MANIFOLD?
For The intake/ front side of the supercharger, I will make a flange/ pipe from fiberglass that routes to the carb which will sit on the passenger side of the intake manifold.
This is a draw through setup... Carb sits on fiberglass flange, routing to input on supercharger> output on supercharger goes straight down to intake manifold.
Electronic Clutch? Is there an advantage to running the supercharger all the time... may require extra tuning?
I was thinking of having it set to engage when carb opens the second barrel. This would be a simple power switch on 2barrel, only would have to re-jet the second barrel, & can open the second barrel with my foot because the 38mm WEBER opens the 2nd mechanically?
Input/ comments/ insults/ all welcome!