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Thread: B18C into 89 Accord LX-i

  1. #26
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    Not at all. All I said was that you need to read more, not that you shouldn't ask questions. What I meant was that before getting into the extensive planning that should be done before buying an engine, etc, you should do more reasearch. I didn't say that you weren't welcome on the board, nor was it implied. This board is here for people who want to learn. Chill out.



  2. #27
    LX User OmEgA PuLsE's Avatar
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    yeah, honestly, I think I'd rather have some opinions from more experienced and car/mechanial-oriented ppl rather than my own. Until I do learn more about cars, I'll have to keep bugging everyone on 3Geez asking what I should do, so far it's worked pretty well.
    ~Omar~

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  3. #28
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    keep the existing a20a3 engine. its can and does make good power but it much more with TQ then other honda engines.
    Want your A series to kick a B series engines ass?email me for detials or check out our site

    WWW.ACCORDCENTRAL.COM

  4. #29

    maka_RTH's Avatar
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    the engie that i want to do is the B18c5, but my second choice would be the B20a, the JDm engine, more horsepower and torque with both those engines. i'll do one or the other someday. and i wouldn't do a B16a swap, but that's me. i think a B20a would be better than a B16a, and the B20a is cheaper. imo
    Greg

    1989 LX-i 2dr 5spd (R.I.P.)

    2008 CBR 600RR -- 1995 Toyota Supra NA -- 2013 Nissan Frontier Pro-4x

  5. #30
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    Honestly, for what it would cost to just buy a B18C5, you could build a pretty rad A20. You could even start from a bare block and have the A20 rebuilt with forged pistons, a cam of your choice, and get some head work done.

  6. #31
    2.0Si User ‹^› ‹(•¿•)› ‹^›'s Avatar
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    Originally posted by maka_RTH
    the engie that i want to do is the B18c5, but my second choice would be the B20a, the JDm engine, more horsepower and torque with both those engines. i'll do one or the other someday. and i wouldn't do a B16a swap, but that's me. i think a B20a would be better than a B16a, and the B20a is cheaper. imo
    B18c5 would be great swap!! But it will be expensive as hell! When u buy an engine of that caliber it will come with the tranny which is hydrolic!! Our cars are cable engaged! Unless you do a Hydro conversion which is a pain! I would stay away from that C5 Goodness!
    -=PROJECT-=-

    NOTE: Project-R Swap parts provided by Racing Impulse. Swap was Performed by RacingImpulse & Next Wave Auto Performance.

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  7. #32
    SEi User MoonScryer's Avatar
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    If you are an absolute nut for something beyond the B16a...just use the B16's tranny...cable shifted.
    I am the wrath of the server you curse and the demon of the directory you cry about - making life hell for users, one deleted file at a time.

  8. #33
    LX User OmEgA PuLsE's Avatar
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    hmmm ppl. So far I'm beginning to like the B16a, since it sounds the easiest, is it the cheapest? *Remember*, I just don't want too much trouble with the Accord, the troublesome stuff will be done in the Summer time.
    ~Omar~

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  9. #34
    LX User OmEgA PuLsE's Avatar
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    Also, I appreciate the A-series ideas, but I think maybe I'd rather not. Don't know, I might definitely change my mind. It's just that I don't want much trouble modding/changing the engine. Besides, if I mod it, the labor fees will make it more costly.
    ~Omar~

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  10. #35

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    Originally posted by OmEgA PuLsE
    hmmm ppl. So far I'm beginning to like the B16a, since it sounds the easiest, is it the cheapest? *Remember*, I just don't want too much trouble with the Accord, the troublesome stuff will be done in the Summer time.
    from what i've read, the B20a is the cheapest. it's just harder to find it i guess. B16a's are a dime a dozen. but the B20a is practically a bolt on.
    Greg

    1989 LX-i 2dr 5spd (R.I.P.)

    2008 CBR 600RR -- 1995 Toyota Supra NA -- 2013 Nissan Frontier Pro-4x

  11. #36
    LX User OmEgA PuLsE's Avatar
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    Wow, bro, u serious? But doesn't the B20a have 190hp @ like 7600RPM or somethin? Although the B16a gives u around 165 @ I think the same RPM. Is it really cheaper than the B16a?? B/c it's more powerful, I know, and is it just a bolt on as well?
    ~Omar~

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  12. #37
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    its cheaper to mod an a20a then install a b16. and the b20a jdm motor is 160hp but the same TQ as the a20a.its gonna be faster then a b16 for sure. tq moves the car not hp.
    Want your A series to kick a B series engines ass?email me for detials or check out our site

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  13. #38
    LX User OmEgA PuLsE's Avatar
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    Sorry all, I'm gettin mad confused now. I know now that I have 3 choices left:
    1) A20a
    2) B16a
    3) B20a
    I can't mod an A20a since my current engine is messed up, so first I'd have to repair it, or just get a whole new engine. I'd rather prefer it stay nice n easy with the engine work right now. So then should my final choice be a B20a, since it's just a bolt in n it gives me more power than a B16a?? I guess which ever of the 2 I find first, I'll take. Well guys, thanx so much so far, but I'm really close to making my decision. Plz leave a few more of ur much-needed suggestions, u've been a great help so far.
    ~Omar~

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  14. #39

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    well, when you get an engine, i'd suggest you get it rebuilt(or rebuild it yourself). if you're looking for lotsa aftermarket support..., then you should go with the B16a. if you're looking for a little more custom work, but more power, then i'd say go with the B20a
    Greg

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    2008 CBR 600RR -- 1995 Toyota Supra NA -- 2013 Nissan Frontier Pro-4x

  15. #40
    LX User wickedaccord's Avatar
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    [QUOTE]Originally posted by ‹^› ‹(•¿•)› ‹^›
    [B][b][color=royalblue] And as for Wicked 8k!! He got robbed!! Not even turbo!!

    uh... am i missing something here?? not to talk shit.. but it was actually 7500 that i spent. and it's a fully built motor. that 7500 now includes a JDM TYPE R HEAD FLYWHEEL AND APEX VAFC. not to mention AGAIN. that the 7500 spent, was on the GSR motor,COMPLETE with ecu, shift linkage, stock mounts, and axles for 2400. i then spent 1200 on the mounts, axles, and shift linkage. so that would total 3600 for jus the motor and the items needed for the install. now total all this to add to 7500... CHIPPED ECU, TYPE R HEAD, all brand new SKUNK2 INTAKE MANIFOLD, TYPE R PISTONS, 64MM THROTTLE BODY, SKUNK2 VALVE SPRINGS AND TITANIUM RETAINERS, SKUNK2 STAGE 2 CAMS, SKUNK2 CAM GEARS, AND MSD WIRES. not only that.. ALL NEW WATER HOSES, ALL NEW GASKETS AND SEALS. not to mention SAND BLASTED AND HOT TANKED HEAD on the GSR HEAD. i practically have a brand new motor.. to last and to go fast. ive said this before.. was it worth it?? well.. i took out a 2002 GT mustang.. JAGUAR X-TYPE, BMX 330.. 98 AUTOMATIC Z28, IROC Z and the other day.. barely lost to an S2000 by a car length becuz i had 4 heads in my car. he had none. was it worth it?? helllll yea it was! ppl say i couldve bought a new car... but it's the dedication.. when i see 3geez ppl say jus sell ur car and get a prelude dohc vtec.. that's no dedication to the 3geez accord man. im proud that soon my car will be a classic in it's original form. that's y my phrase now is..STOCK IS THE BEST! which is y i now have a stock TYPE R muffler. think about it before u say, i got robbed.

    PEACE
    also, tha 7500 included the installation money and paying for the ecu install by JPR


    jon

  16. #41


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    Sean, Just to correct the B20A has about 140ft lb of toque which is one of the main reasons why im doing the swap. This is the reason why i the B16 didnt appeal to me after the thought of doint it w/o the turbo cause they only have 111 ft lb of torque which sucks. As for wicked accords swap all i can say is watch the videos that are up here on the board. I just watched them at steves yesterday and it speeks for itself. If you dont have money then an engine swap is not a good idea unless you can work some good deals.

  17. #42
    LX User OmEgA PuLsE's Avatar
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    111 torque???? WTF! The 89Accord LX-i has 112 stock, omg man. I want more moving power, not just power for the hell of it that can't be used. Guess i'm stuck with B20A???
    ~Omar~

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  18. #43


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    All swaps have pros and cons you just have to figure out how much your willing to spend and what your mechanic ability is cause some things will be expensive if a shop does the work for you. I was stuck on turbos for a long time and came very very close to having a B20A setup but that fell through and i now realize that i want a more streetable and cost effective swap for now cause im still not done with school. Not that my B20A swap is gonna be cheap but i can subtract at least 3k.

  19. #44
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    im buildoing turbo A20a both justin and i are finishing up the GM hardware. it drastically lowers the cost of going turbo but making engine management cheap.
    Want your A series to kick a B series engines ass?email me for detials or check out our site

    WWW.ACCORDCENTRAL.COM

  20. #45
    LXi User BensAccordLxi's Avatar
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    I dyno tested my old b16 and it didn't have much less low end than the A20 did. Now the Hp was about double at the wheels. It went from 96hp to 176hp. That swap costed me $4,300. That included the motor, tranny, install, Mugen ECU, ACT clutch, OBX header and full exhaust. The also Dyno tested and tuned the car to get as much hp as they could.
    R.I.P. 1988 Honda Accord LX-i hatchback

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