REMOVING VACUUM LINES DISCUSSION

[smufguy]

okay like you said, THe top hose is the one that needs to be warm before the bottom hose gets warm. The bottom hose is the input to the waterpump, if its gettign warmer, then soemthing is wrong. Also Did u change your thermostat? Are you leaking coolant anywhere? Rig a switch? well do this, pull the connector out of the thermo switch on the bottom of the radiator and put a wire across the clip. this will make the fans run all the timewith the key in Ignition II. check ur fan fuses.

[accordlxi2.0]

first off i just wanna say thanks for helping me for everything, and you should becaome a mod or something,......


nope thats gonna be done today hopefully cause the snow's coming in.

i did rig the switch which helped yesterday, but today it's not really helping because it's at the 1/2 mark.
so apparntly the t-stat must be opening a little and not all the way, because i noticed that when the gauge read's what should be the normal temp.
the thermostat should open.
then like i say about 10mins.
the block get's hotter than usual, the i could feel a portion of the top hose get hot, and then the gauge goes back to the normal specs.....
and so on.
i'm really considering on selling her and getting an lx-i ........

[smufguy]

its no problem man. I got help the same way when i needed them most and i would do the same (like i do now) in a heart beat to others.

Usually, these signs are the result of a faulty THermostat that does not wanna open soon enough. with the fans running constantly you will never over heat if the t-stat is working properly since all the coolant that comes off the t-stat will be immediately cooled by the constantly running fans than waiting for the coolant to reach the desired temp and the fans being turned on by the thermoswitch.

THe fans being turned on (on the efis) at the last minute are due to the secondary thermoswitch located on their T-stat housing.

what kinda gas you use should not make your car run hot or normal for this kinda mod on the engine.

I would say dont sell her yet, get the t-stat and see if it fixed it, i am sure its the last piece of the puzzle and even if it does not. Dont sell your car. Spend just $300 and get the parts needed for the EFI conversion. These parts are available at any junkyard and even a lot of members have spare parts available at their disposal. If i lived any closer i would have helped you much more, but damn ur too far away. Wish u lived in NJ or PA or somewhere close by .

I like the way your car looks and i wont sell ur car if i was you. You worked on it hard enough and what more great of an opportunity can an efi conversion be to greatly understand your car and mechanics of it?

Hope that helps bro. Take care and anytime, u want im willing to help

ps: if you need any further help u can always get me on msn, aol or yahoo messengers if u want

[accordlxi2.0]

thanks alot...
i don't wanna sell her, but she keeps giving me problems...
i wanna keep her even more when i went back to the muffler shop and what i want done to her, they said 120..not bad for the upgrade....
i love the car.. i mean the day after my accident, and i was told why my leg broke..
even though i had painkillers shot up in me 2x's.
i said i want another 3g...
and your like the 3rd person saying to keep it..
and then on top of it.. i have most of the efi parts, i just need about 7 more things and i start.


okay i go to autozone and they had a couple of options, one was a 195* and 180*.....
then there was o.e.m. i chose that one...
and it was a 180*.

i'm like are you sure that's the right one..
they said yea...even my dad said that would be about right.
so i get some more anitfreeze 50/50 already mixed, put on the t-stat.
and then filled it up till i seen coolant come out the bleeder hole.
then started her up, and it would be air then liquid and so on.
i know it should've squirted out in a continous sqirt but it would vary ...
was that wrong.
then i screwed it on put the cap on.
drove for about an hour, had the heater off, drove it hard (a little).
the the gauge raised about 1 hour of driving, i was pissed, but it did'nt over heat, but the fans kicked on and turned off, till it was "normal" again.
then the gauge stayed 1/2 mark.

then went to get some gas remembering you had said that i could be running so lean that the head could be overheating.
i tried premium this time.
now driving about 30mins later the gauge went to the "normal" spot.
and stayed there.
i really don't think the fact that i went from 89 to 93 grade made this difference...
what's ur input...
oh btw, the t-stat that was in the car was a 180*.....
i hope it's not the head

[smufguy]

with the T-stat problem worked out u should be good. What you mean the fans came on and turned off? u did not keep them running all the time?

THe only other possiblility could be the coolant additive that you found earlier. It could have been that blocking the passages. BUt yeah, u should be alright.

Here is another thing. Get a Bottle of RedLine Water Wetter from autozone, its like $7 and pour it in your radiator, not ur coolant bottle, but your radiator. Watch your needle, you will be suprised

[accordlxi2.0]

hmm.. after i get my first check i think i'll invest in that.

i mean it's so weird though on the way there it over heated.
then for some odd reason once i put in 93, she was fine...well i'll have to check her out today.

i did have my switch incase she over heated.
but once it was like above the 1/2 mark the fans came on.
then they did'nt turn off till it was at the normal spec.
then it stayed at the 1/2 mark.
i then turn the fans on myself and the heater, it went down slightly.

even while i was in stop and go traffic.

then i put in some premium gas.
and like 1/2 of driving it goes down, and i revved her i couple time's even held the rpms too.
it was fine.
i kicked on my swich and it did'nt go down any more.
i'll check the level out today, there was probably some air in the system i see when i check it out today......

[smufguy]

the way i blead my system the similar way you did. run the car, keep the bleed valve a lil open till a steady stream of coolant starts to pour out and then add more coolant to the resevoir without opening the rad cap. This is because wit the engine running and fluid circulating, u dont wanna pull more air in. but i am sure you did the best job draining and flushing the coolant.

My only suspection is that its blocked up coolant passages. Also, i dont quite remember if i asked u this or not. but hell i ask you. Do u have coolant disappearing?

[accordlxi2.0]

the way i blead my system the similar way you did. run the car, keep the bleed valve a lil open till a steady stream of coolant starts to pour out and then add more coolant to the resevoir without opening the rad cap. This is because wit the engine running and fluid circulating, u dont wanna pull more air in. but i am sure you did the best job draining and flushing the coolant.

My only suspection is that its blocked up coolant passages. Also, i dont quite remember if i asked u this or not. but hell i ask you. Do u have coolant disappearing?


yep i do...right out the fucking resevoir twice today.

so again basically my 50/50 anti freeze has ran out again and probably 1/2 is with water now.
i did bother filling back up because it had overflowed....
and get this is rust colored AGAIN!.
the previous owner really fucked up...
at first i thought it was me..like if i had put the t-stat on backwards.
i know the pump is fine.....
the cap i have is probably no good either.

i can tell when the t-stat is opening i belive..
because when it's closed and like a minute later both hoses feel pressurized.
then they get hot...
then the t-stat opens and the fans turn on and the hose feel soft again.....
this is making me really feel at a lost....
as i said before i really apriciate ( < miss spelled)your help

plsu i can tell if she's low on coolant, because she'll "search" for coolant.
plus when the engine is cold it'll rev at 1,000 rpms..
then once it reaches the appropriate temp..
she'll go down to 650rpms.

[accordlxi2.0]

allright
now i was told one of the reasons due to the bogging when i foolr it is due to the fact that i dissconnected the a.b.c. valve.

okay what i had done is connect my A.B.C. thingy back and the bogging was worse even the popping noise that my exhaust makes.
and for some reason it made the engine run hotter?

then i dissconnected the valve and plugged them up.
the bogging is less and the popping noise is even lesser than before i had the system dissconnected?!!

the gas milege has gotten worse too...
oh wait due to the clogged cat could be the reasons( and the reason why my a.i.r.s does'nt work....but now there's a break between the cat (before it) and pipe.
so it sounds a little ricey.
but no shutting off...(glad).

plus i don't know if it matters (even thogh it seemed it does/did)
the wires on my intake air temp were broken , i just replaced it today so, i'll see how that is.

but yet and still the mpg's are bad.
one time i had gotten about 130 on a tank?!

what i have done was plugged the fequency solenoids and vac lines, the efi dizzy timing is "stuck" in the mid position.
the A.B.C. valve is dissconnected.


any suggestions guys?

thanks.

[A20A1]

Who told you that?

The ABC removal makes you run richer... so of course reconnecting it will cause you to lean out and run hotter.

Don't worry about the air intake temp sensor if your hot air door is disabled.

hmm I doubt it's the efi distributor... but what to you mean stuck?

[accordlxi2.0]

hmm so the reason i bogged more with the abc because i ranned lean, then with it dissconected it's running a bit less lean?

this guy at my job..wells there's two of em ( a philipine and a chinise).
not racist or anything but the philipine seems to know more shit than the chinise.

the chinise dude told me that, and i was like well this person (was actully saying you)
told me this...the dude is stubborn i'm bout fed up with him.

the dizzy is stuck meaning i cat advance 'cause the t-stat housing and cat retard since the vac. advance black thingy is at the bottom.

i replaced the fuel filters, and done a complete tune up.
should i adjust the float??
i mean it makes no sense that the gas milege is this low!

[A20A1]

Filipino and Chinese?

Their country is spelt differently then their race.

Who told who is stubborn? I'm confused with that sentance?

only adjust the float if you find it isn't set right...
The air jet controller is an altitude diaphragm that senses air pressure I assume... thus adjustin the mixture slightly when you change altitudes... that usually happens on it's own since carbs are all about air pressure/vacuum... but the air jet bleeds in more air cause at higher altitudes the emulsion tubes need to have more air to help hold back the fuel.

if you left the air jet ports open with no air jet controller you'll run very lean since all that air is coming in and adding it's braking power to stop fuel flow... if you plug them you'll run rich because not enough air is getting to the emulsion tubes to stop the gas.

I have no idea about your carb though... did you do the vacuum removal fully yet or is it still part way? And was your secondary mechanical or is it still vacuum?

[accordlxi2.0]

sorry i meant the chinese guy is stubborn..when i was telling him what you had suggested to me.

my secondary is vacuum controlled.
lets see...
i dissconnected the fequency vacuum lines, the abc controller.

i still have all the vac lines from the black box connected, i have the a/c idle boost (which works and the a/c does too), cruise control, throttle control (which i probably don't need)

the vacuum lines that would attach to the air box are no longer connected.

i'm gonna take a look at your diagram, maybe i missed something???.....

[A20A1]

Please do, I could have missed somehting too... the diagram has been messed with and redrawn numerous times.

[accordlxi2.0]

okay a20a1 here's what i removed also:
all three thermovavles (they did'nt work, so i "overrode" them)
the choke puller and fast idle unloader are spliced into the same line (thinking about just plugging the choke puller casue it seems like it does'nt help in the mornings).
a.i.r.s i have plugged (it still works even with the exhaust having a hole before the cat?)


oh i see something..you have the secondary going directly into the carb??
will it work better without the "ecu" secondary opening solenoid??

the idle diaphram (a.k.a throttle controller) you have that spliced within the distributor vac. advanced line??

i have everything from the black box connected too.

what does plugging the fuel bowl vent line do??

thanks!

[A20A1]

The reason the secondary goes to the thermovalve... I don't see when it would go to the ECU but I might have not had it that way or forgot about it... anyways... the tehrmovalve delays the opening of the saecondary when the engine is cold.

hooking it directly to the port on the carb will make it responsive all the time.

Don't worry about pluging the float bowl vent.

do you have the air intake temp sensor laying around... some people say it affects their motor when it's unhooked,

Do you have the stok air cleaner installed?
Maybe the hot air door is part way open choking the motor... and making it get hot...

I would flip the lid of the air box and see if it helps at all.

the idle diaphragm and the advance diaphragm both need manifold vacuum... I just "T" thems together then hooked them to the strongest vacuum port on the carb which is the rear port near the brake booster line. don't worry about hooking it up this way unless you decide to remove the black box and all the hard lines.

[accordlxi2.0]

^ what.... the....hell....is ....that thing glowing.

the iat sensor it does affect the engine.
while the engine is warm i disconnect it..the idle goes down and sounds kinda loopy..but once you connect it it's fine.
it rarely pops.
but it still bogs...but not as much.

HEY, HEY , i think you solved one of my problems.
i took the intake door diaprham thingy off....the door can easily go up and down.
that could be the problem??
the engine is that powerful?

i just got a civic intake and plan on putting it on soon.

plus the other day i used premium too and the popping is less and the bogging too.
so all she needs...from what you explaining to me and it seems i had used premium....she needs to run a little more richer...which probably means..either advanced the timing...or start plugging more lines.

i'm gonna flip the lid see if that affects it any.....

[A20A1]

I was thinking that your motor was being choked and that the hot air door was letting in hot air causing your motor to get real hot... so it popped... the higher grade gas helps like it would with a turbo motor injesting hot air... richness also helps... it's not that extreme but header heat is quite hot.

The pic is the eye or the carb god...

Actually it's just a small fire in the secondary carb barrel.

[accordlxi2.0]

lol...
oh so thats why it's doing it.
well i know this is bad but i took of the air cleaner and the top and drove it like that....
it improved a little, i think it needs more gas.

i know on the driver side..thoses solenoids with the vac lines...i was thinking about plugging those....
would i need that constant vacuum generator...if not i would plug everything else 'cept for the a/c idle boost and cruise control.

[A20A1]

The constant vacuum genetator is for EGR.... that way it has vacuum at all times so all the ECU needs to do is open up a path and the EGR open.

[accordlxi2.0]

hmmm....
i don't wanna fail emissions so i guess i'll keep the constant vac. generator.

i won't be able to do anything till monday.

i just read what i wrote the other day....
does'nt sopund right what i meant to say the bogging was stilll there but less...i think it needs to run a bit more rich.

[A20A1]

I'm pretty sure this is the constant vacuum valve for the EGR
I listed what I suspect are the vacuum connections.

[accordlxi2.0]

oh a20a1 man...i really ned your help...it seems that i need your help more than usual...and for that i'm sorry.
okay i put on the civic intake and the thing where it goes intake place as our air box goes....well to hold it down i put a screw inbetween the choke puller, well it was fine till i moved the box thingy and i broke my fu#king choke puller...i freaked out..she did'nt wanna start up.
at first i did'nt think much of it since it has the tiny vacuum line only....once it was able to hold her own idle it was loud i seen the two vacuum lines (one leaving the mystery box)....the other was just main vacuum i had attached the main vacuum line to the black box line.

and also what i done was take a rubber band and had the choke open at all times...
and to be honest she seems to run better while warming up.

so was that a good thing and plus the fact that the tiny vacuum line is open does or will that affect it any??

but she's very responsive...sounds like she has balls too.....

thanks.

[A20A1]

How much of the choke puller did you break? If you can't use the choke puller any longer you ight need to hook #18 to manifod vacuum insead of the puller then hook the other line that is on the choke puller to nothing... plug it is best actually.

But that just depends if the choke puller is leaking or not.

I'm not sure what you mean by inbetween the choke puller? Do you mean the arm? or the vacuum ports?

[accordlxi2.0]

the base of the choke puller and the vaccum ports.
and the whole thing is broke.....it's being held by the bottom part where the screw is.

hmmm, so the one thats coming from the black box...plug it.
and the other line well...thats probably plugged since the fiu is attached to it.

i have to say though she feels like she's gained.
and i started her up when the coolant was warm, and when the gauge was under the C line...before it seemedonce the gauge was a bit above the C line, she would bog...very bad. the only problem now is after i ranned her for awhile then like start her 15 minutes later she'll kinda stumble...but not as bad compared to when the choke "normal"
now, it feels...as though if i would have efi.

i mean the intake assmebly is cool while everything else in the bay is warm to hot.


now another stupid question:
is the throttle controller really important?

i'm debating if i should keep that or not.

on the other hand whats got me worried is the emissions.

i know the carb mainly needs the
air system
egr
something else...what was it??