ahh, if the choke puller is brpken you could have exposed the internal vacuum passage... it's a pin hole size if you were to make a cut away of the choke puller... but the port that feeds it is near the lowest screw. f you remove the scew plug that internal port.
Needs everything Exept | Choke | A/C Idle Boost | Cruise Contorl
Everything else has it's place in controlling emissions.
- llia
damn i did'nt like the fact that i would have to crank so long for the bowl to fill...
what i would do is is turn the key on -to-off till i feel as though if the bowl is full.
i have to figure that out.
i know my boosters are loose...so that could be the problem..but i tighten the secondary not too long ago.
****** 1994 nissan maxima SE ******
oh man...i have an issue.
well i emmisons this month.
umm everything is in its place...well cept for the stuff that would connect to the original air box.
those lines are plugged.
but i dissconnected those white things...i think those are called frequency vavles.
its those big white things.....whould this effect emission???
****** 1994 nissan maxima SE ******
white things causing problems... very possilble
and about the boosters... fix them... that will cause hell with your mixture.
- llia
well i gotta plug those back in.....
its gonna be a chore to do the primary venturi.....one being it seems the screw can easily get stripped....
****** 1994 nissan maxima SE ******
okay...now the white thing that connects within the a.i.r. system, i was wondering if i should connect that i mean the vavle does'nt work.
but get this i had the exhaust replaced and on the old cat...(it looked original) on the side where the exhaust exits the honey comb crap had melted or it looks melted......
****** 1994 nissan maxima SE ******
follow the rebuild how to on removing the top hat... then remove most of the choke housing screws... the two visable screws.... then go ahead and wedge a screw driver between the thick part of the choke housing and the carb... near the throttle stop screw... the tip of the screwdriver should touch near the base of the carb and the shaft near the handle should be used to apply the pressure to snap the final screw between the choke and carb... actually the screw will be fine but a small bit of the carb will snap off... it's fine as long as you don't touch it... everything will line up again when you go to tighten the other 2 screws you removed.
I'll try and get pics.
- llia
well it looks like someone tried to do it before me.
the screws are stripped so the only way would be drilling them out...........right??
****** 1994 nissan maxima SE ******
are you sure you are looking at the screws? and not the rivets?
anyways drilling screws out is not the way to remove them, especially since you'd have to remove the carb. Get a needle nose pliers that clamp... and just twist the screw head to loosen it.
- llia
check it out
https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=8972
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- llia
hmm...okay thanks.
in the third pic what am i looking at??????
i think i'll under stand how to remove the 3rd screw more if i knew what a was looking at.....
****** 1994 nissan maxima SE ******
Originally Posted by accordlxi2.0
They are all close ups of the choke... the 3rd pic highlights the choke body... the part on the left shows the back of the carb... near the throttle stop screw... I removed it in that pic.
- llia
i wanted to say thanks for helping me out with everything.
i find is strange that something like a screw can cause so much caios....
i mean its just a screw holding something in.
****** 1994 nissan maxima SE ******
well i had to take my emissions test, i was so fu%king nervous, i never failed...but i had a feeling i would fail.
and i did'nt surprising with the mods i had done...i passed.
the limit or standards were
HC CO CO2
0.327 2.222 N/A
mines
0.325 1.563 243.600 (thats a big ass number)
i see i almost went over the hc's
and co2 if there was a limit my ass more than like would've failed big time.......
****** 1994 nissan maxima SE ******
They wouldn't put a screw there if it wasn't needed.
I'm glad you passed
- llia
yea and with the exhuast upgrade and i found a few more cracked lines....performance improved too.
****** 1994 nissan maxima SE ******
i poured some carb cleaner into the secondary and the engine would either bog down or idle hi.....
so i think the secondary throttle is a bit open, is that how it's supposed to be??
****** 1994 nissan maxima SE ******
the secondary opening a bit?
If the secondary is connected directly to the carb then it's possible.
But usually it needs a fair bit of throttle before there is enough Venturi vacuum and the thermo-wax valve if connected needs to be closed which means the engine/coolant has reached operating temp.
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More then likely if you pour carb cleaner... which sounds like a lot to me... the engine would bog. Thenthe idle would raise up as the amount of cleaner lessens to a few drops... I'd think if the crack in the throttle was big enough you'd stall the motor.
what you can/should do is hold your hand over or with something cover the secondary barrel tight... that would be a better way to test if the secondary throttle is leaking... the idle will probably raise noticeably if the leak was enough to drop vacuum to the primay while it's on the idle circuit.
- llia
So with my efi jdm b20a with the same intake and vacuum system as the a20a, I have to figure out again where every vacuum line goes on the intake manifold, and make them all happen? The last time we put it together and said "screw the vacuum lines" and took them all off (and plugged some selectively based on a lot of research), the car topped out (in mileage) at about 10mpg on the highway and 5mpg around town. It didn't really run any stronger at all. It might have run worse. I think the distributor was the only thing still associated with vacuum (no cruise control or anything)...
There's no way whatsoever for me to get rid of that black box? And if I get an aftermarket manifold and adapt the flange to fit my head, I have to convert to obd1 to remove everything vacuum?
And when I try to set my timing, there are marks like a Cross or Plus sign, sometimes a flash of a number 5 .... it doesn't matter how I try to set the timing, I can't distinguish seeing a number of where my timing is at with the timing light. And neither can the two mechanics that helped me put it together last time. So we just set the distributor to be as advanced as possible, and things always seemed fine. Ugh... dumb vacuum.
Paul
bury the bach.
http://home.stny.rr.com/versanick/burythetach
hey try6 yadjusting whatever the klien has for a power valve my dads truck used to do that and by puting a beter fit powervalve and it works right lounches hard and pulls mountains.First off, if it sounds like an internal miss, good possibility that your mixture is to rich.
Let me start off by saying that I had a hell of a time trying to dial in my Kliehn
Carb ( following the initial diagram ). What were you boys thinking? First off, by plugging the main air control jet (front of carb) you need to replace the main jets. The car will run way to rich, miss, deep-exhaust note, smoke, and run like shit.
If you don't want this hastle hook up your air jet controler to the air contol jets (2 slow air control jet(primary & secondary bore) & 1 main air control jet.
**By the way, not all carbed models have a air jet controler (Can. models).
>>>had to remove the one off of my parts car<<<
Car is good on gas, has an excellent bottom to mid-range hit (noticeable improvement)!
But the car runs a little lean on the top-end (no improvement).
Any suggestions??
Our Power Valve is not removable, though it has a nice HEX head on it, we could adjust the spring tension to make the plunger open the valvve earlier but thats about as good as it gets.
............
Yeah, Keihin naturally spaces the fuel nozzel well above the throttle plates for good fuel distribution... adding the extra spacer is a nice touch. I wonder if we could covert a carb to slide throttle like the bike carbs... it would be neat to see. Also incorporating an "Aerosol Fuel Nozzle" in place of the booster venturi.
..............
There are ways to richen the fuel mixture... but first you want to make sure it's not a fuel delivery problem, a float problem... or something of that nature.
I've tried with some success adding vacuum to the air jet ports to lower the air brake on the fuel flow from the mains.
The thing is only getting enough vacuum and not too much that the vacuum sucks up the fuel as well.
The Vacuum you need is venturi vacuum... there is a port on the driver side of the carb that is connected to #11... it's a bit larger vacuum port then the 5/32" vacuum ports on the rest of the carb. It's near the float inspection window.
You can try a few methods if you are bored and have the time.
1) Connect the Venturi Vacuum port to one of the air jet ports directly and Plug the other air jet ports.
2) Connect the Venturi Vacuum port to one of the air jet ports directly and Leave the Other Air Jet Pots connected to the air jet controller.
3) Tap into the air jet controller lines to the air jet port with a vacuum "T" fitting to connect it to venturi vacuum.
You may need a vacuum restrictior to liimit how much vacuum the line will pull.
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Last edited by A20A1; 09-16-2005 at 06:30 PM.
- llia
Im ready to do this Mod, but all I want is the bare bones (2 vac lines to distributor and carb). But im wondering how the Cold idle system is set up, is it stricty electrical?? If not is there a way to connect that too? I might try that with the choke plate, but I might just remove that.
Matt
Well yes you can keep the choke and fast idle unloader....
that will require you to keep the themo valve.... also keeping the other thermovalve for #25
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11067
the diagram/pic is a little off and needs to be updated.
- llia
So which vac lines are for the choke and fast idle unloader? Just 18 & 19? So should I just plug all the other line 17, and I dont have AC or a air jet controller. Would this have any less performance then the full vac line removal? Other than the choke resisting a little air. Also is the fast idle unleader adjustable?
Thanks, Matt
keep the air jet.
no the fast idle unloader is not... but the camlinkage and fast idle screw are... it's tricky so I'd rather remove it and have no fast idle and a manual choke.
the choke and fast idle are linked. the diagram drawing shows how they connect to manifold vacuum.
- llia
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