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Thread: REMOVING VACUUM LINES DISCUSSION

  1. #26

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    Hey Mike thanks for loading to a new server.
    yeah i forgot about the choke. well, they can comeback and ask.
    Alex.



  2. #27
    SEi User 88 Accord DX's Avatar
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    seems like way to much work for me. plus i would be scared to flip the carb. is it really worth it???
    -T.C.


    Originally posted by HostileJava
    are you making fun of me because I think coroncho80 is hot?

  3. #28

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    hell yeah it is worth it.
    it is not that much work. you will spend more time removing shit.
    than it takes like minutes to putt it back. you don't have to flip the carb. you just have to be very careful with it.
    Alex.

  4. #29
    3Geez Veteran ACCORD EX's Avatar
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    Originally posted by shepherd79
    Hey Mike thanks for loading to a new server.

    no prob !

    MIKE
    3geez member since October 4th 2001

  5. #30
    SEi User 88 Accord DX's Avatar
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    it looks like there are too many things that can go wrong. maybe if i get bored this summer i will do it.
    -T.C.


    Originally posted by HostileJava
    are you making fun of me because I think coroncho80 is hot?

  6. #31

    Mike's89AccordLX's Avatar
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    Ok, I have a weber. Aren't all the vac. lines plugged already? If I remove the box will I still have cruise control and my electric choke for the carb?

  7. #32

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Mike's89AccordLX
    Ok, I have a weber. Aren't all the vac. lines plugged already? If I remove the box will I still have cruise control and my electric choke for the carb?
    if you have a weber than you don't need this how to.
    just take everything out and drop weber.
    i don't think cruise control would work with weber. cruise control reguires vacuum box. i think black box does some of the cruise control stuff.
    Alex.

  8. #33

    Mike's89AccordLX's Avatar
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    My cruise control does work with the weber too. That sucks, I don't want to lose that.

  9. #34

    Mike's89AccordLX's Avatar
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    I suppose I could unplug the black box and then see if the cruise works. hopefully it does b/c I don't want that ugly box anymore. That would be a good way to check and see if it runs off of the black box. (cars getting a new alarm system put in at the moment so I can't check now)

  10. #35

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    hmm, that would be nice to know.
    Alex.

  11. #36
    LX User mindlos's Avatar
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    *Looks* much better, haven't read it since I already did with version 1. One problem but its not hard for anybody using this to figure out (sans dummies ). The picture for part d. points to the fuel line port with "PLUG" instead of the one to the lower right of it (usually hooked to #11).
    Last edited by mindlos; 01-20-2003 at 04:17 PM.

  12. #37
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    Originally posted by Mike's89AccordLX
    Ok, I have a weber. Aren't all the vac. lines plugged already? If I remove the box will I still have cruise control and my electric choke for the carb?
    Dude just trace the vacuum from your cruise control diaphram and run it to vacuum. I did that and my cruise works great.

  13. #38

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    oh shit you are right.
    mike, can you fix the problem.
    thanks.
    Alex.

  14. #39
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    So you are saying that u can do this project and still keep the cruise control with the stock carb ? Or are you guys talking about the weber. Id love to do this mod and keep cruise control. Another thing id like to ask is, i want to cut my air cleaner assembly to fit the oval filter, but what do you do with the exhaust gas recirculate hose and all that junk connected to the exhaust manifold, and what else is required besides what it tells you in the how-to. One more thing, u guys talk about flipping the carb when ur working on it?, and how that wrecks it or something? Just wondering? Ive worked on many carburetors for bikes and snowmobiles, but ever a carburated car. THANKS!!

    ~Brad
    Last edited by Brad_86AccordLX; 01-21-2003 at 10:49 AM.
    ~Brad

    1986 Accord LX 5-speed 4-door
    Rusty but still goes 132,000 miles.

  15. #40

    A20A1's Avatar
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    For the Cruise control to work, I'm assuming you just need manifold vacuum... the the bulk of the cruise control function is done by the control unit... which i think is located under the dash.

    You can cut the lid... I did it once because it makes it easier to tune the stock carb. there are a few things that are disconnected when you do this.
    - AIR TEMP SENSOR
    - PRE HEATER HOSE
    - PCV HOSE AND FILTER
    - VACUUM LINE TO HOT AIR DOOR CONTROL DIAPHRAGM

    I think the Air suction silencer can stay on...
    - llia


  16. #41

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    many people say that flipping the carb is bad. well, let me tell you, i fliped my carburators many times, and they always work.
    Alex.

  17. #42
    SEi User Mantis88LX's Avatar
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    i want to remove all the other shit except the choke and i dont want to have manual secondary. so what vaccum hoses should i remove in order to keep choke and vaccum secondary ?? thanx

  18. #43

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    i think i know about the secondary, IM me so i can explain better.
    about the choke i have no clue.
    Alex.

  19. #44
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    THANKS.....

    But whats the difference between manual secondary and a vacuum secondary, and if i do this, its removing the choke, how is it gonna start on the cold ass mornings here in Minnesota?? One more thing, if i cut the lid up, what do i do with those sensors, just plug them where they lead to or disconect them whatever the connection is vacuum/electrical ? THANKS
    ~Brad

    1986 Accord LX 5-speed 4-door
    Rusty but still goes 132,000 miles.

  20. #45
    LX User mindlos's Avatar
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    The manual secondary will always open at a certain throttle position regardless of rpms. *I THINK* the vacuum secondary does not open when below certain rpms (say 2700 to 3000) when you floor it and the physical rail is no longer impeding. If you floor it at very low rpms on manual secondary the car stumbles and almost stands still because the air drawing the fuel through the venturis slows down tremendously due to 100% increase in the air passage. Thus not enough fuel is drawn to accelerate. Its like driving a street-rod. You have to be more aware of driving dos and don'ts instead of the vacuum stuff + computer doing it for you.

    Starting and idling a car in very cold conditions like MN is a major hassle. There is a trick involved though so I'm still very happy. Also because I bought a house and park inside a garage. Not heated but its not ice cold either. If you are outside or if you go anywhere and park long enough for the car to freeze over its not nice.

    The trick is running it rich using the accelerator pump diagphram other wise it will stall. First give it 2 or so good pumps before cranking. Immediately when the car starts after you crank keep tapping the accelerator every second or faster/slower if necessary. Do not tap the accelerator far enough to move the throttle plate much coz that will open the air passage too much. You only want the gas squirted by the pump diagphram to keep coming so it will be super rich and not more air as well. I have to do that for minute, on the coldest days in the last four weeks since I did the mod, then I can leave it alone and go back inside. Since I did not remove the chocke housing assemly I get high idle, 2.5K -3K when I leave it alone until I tap the gas once when warmed up (if thats not by design without vacuum signals connected I'm still happy about it). I did disconnect the choke plate though to avoid unnecessary choking.

    When starting it always stalls the first time, but my trick works after that. It sounds complicated and long in the explanation but it is really simple. Just as long as you can live without the other ammenities. You could also hook up a manual choke cable from the cabin to the choke plate lever to cure the cold start/idle stall.

    What do you think carb gods?


    Mike, do you know how the choke assembly internal vacuum setup interacts with the vacuum hose hookups? Basically I'm asking whats going on there coz I feel there might something riggable.
    Last edited by mindlos; 01-22-2003 at 11:22 PM.

  21. #46

    A20A1's Avatar
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    The internal vacuum line routes from the choke puller to the carb just below and to the left of the venturi vacuum port that connects to the vacuum secodnary diaphragm. Internally the vacuum for the choke and the secodnary diaphragm are seperate. The Internal vacuum line for the choke exits below the throttle plate in the secondary barrel. So it should be considered a manifold vacuum port.
    - llia


  22. #47

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    yeah i have to agree, that when secondary opens at low rpm car stumbles a little. I try to floor it when i am about 3K or above.
    the sensors that are on the airfilter, you can just take them out. you won't need them.
    choke, well it is 5deg outside today, and i my car starts just fine.
    it is harder to start when it is very cold. you will have to get used to it, but you can do it.
    my best bet would be for you to go get another carb from junk yard and strip it for this mod. this way if you don't like it you can putt the stock carb back on.
    you can leave the vacuum lines on the car and just plug everything else on the carb. if you don't like it. go back to the way you had it.
    Alex.

  23. #48
    LX User 3rdGenFanatic's Avatar
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    When I do this mod, will I still have my AC/Heat?
    Current Mods:
    Weber Carb Conversion
    2in. Straight Piped Exhaust
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  24. #49
    3Geez Veteran dXsquared's Avatar
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    yah

    Travis
    www.cardomain.com/id/dxhatchback

  25. #50

    Mike's89AccordLX's Avatar
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    Do you think I might need a different fuel pump with my weber? In the cold weather here it just doesn't seem to get enough gas in the mornings. I took my silencer off b/c it was block the exhaust too much so the hard lost a crap load of power and stalled a lot.

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