in my opinion stock fuel pump can't keep up with weber demands.
Mike posted links to the fiel pumps that you can use.
I am not sure if it is possible to keep AC with no vacuums, but he heat will work.
in my opinion stock fuel pump can't keep up with weber demands.
Mike posted links to the fiel pumps that you can use.
I am not sure if it is possible to keep AC with no vacuums, but he heat will work.
Alex.
the stock fuel pump has a hard time keeping up with a rejeted keihin.
- llia
is there a how-to for the, manual choke conversion, and secondary conversion? or am i dumb and just missing it somewhere?
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manual choke is just a cable atached to the choke plate. i am sure you can do it on yourown.
secondary conversion, there is a picture.
Alex.
If you decide not to do the secondary conversion you need to keep one extra vacuum line.
run a 5/32" vacuum line from the vacuum port labled "SEC" to the vacuum diaphragm on the right side of the carb.
- llia
run the vacuum line to the diaphragm like this... the picture below is deceptive... thats why I posted the pic above to let you know whic vacuum port to keep and which to plug
- llia
thank mike. i thought that is what it was, but i wasn't sure.
Alex.
Oh I posted that for someone else... I just used this thread cause it made it sticky
- llia
thanx a20a1
Well I spent the whole day stairing at the monitor erasing and drawing out the vacuum diagram for the keihin... this should help you guys get a good picture of where everything goes.
http://www.geocities.com/accord89lx/keihinvacuum.html
I also took the time to add in a Weber vacuum diagram.
- llia
I have been thinking about that vacuum advance diagphram on the distributor and have a scenario for people to help test (those who have removed most of the vacuum lines).
Synopsis: I have noticed that my car does not run as smooth on low grade fuel [87] after removing the vacuum lines and accelerates slightly better before fully warming up. This is mostly at the 3000+ RPM range I have noticed. I cant make conclusions on the low end. I dont drive completely cold but once the gauge starts moving I go. My feeling is that it is related to advanced timing. I also have been running premium since this partially counter the issue.
The outer port on the diagphram that hooks to #25 is supposed to receive vacuum only when the engine cold. I cant remember the temp and I cant check it while at work but maybe about 50 degrees celsius. The way we have it set up right now after removing the other crap is that there will always be a signal to the diagphram on both ports.
I am not worried about the inner port that hook to #2 since that is supposed to get a vacuum signal even when warm. However, the constant vaccum signal to the cold advance port means that you will be running at a more advanced timing than normal. If you already had advanced the timing via the distributor then there is a chance you will probably go over the pinging threshhold.
Here's my suggestion: The howto must state that is you want advanced timing AND you have not advanced your distributor then also connect the outer port to manifold vacuum. This may necessitate higher grade fuel if you were on the lowest octane and you get pinging. Otherwise you can just plug that cold advance port, which shouldnt be too bad unless you drive your car cold without warming it up. Another undesirable resolution would be routing to the thermovalve but thats recreating the junk removed.
The Test: If anybody can, please test your car response with the cold advance hooked to vacuum and when plugged (no vac). If nobody notices any differnce then I guess it could be a none issue, but I'm looking for input from the knowledgeable. To maybe add significance to this does anybody know how much advance is added by the diagphram per port per 1000 RPM or mmHg vacuum, whatever?
i will see what i can find out.
Alex.
The significance is slight... but you are right.
I have tested it many times with the BS motor I had and hooking both vacuum advance ports to direct manifold vacuum can safely be done with timing set at TDC.
lets say stock advance brings you to within the first and second line... of the ignition advance marks on the flywheel. Adding the second vacuum hose to the distributor brings the advance to the third line on the flywheel.
The three lines look like this l | l
Which is good for roughly about a 200rmp increased idle at most.
Also I think the max manifold vacuum was 22" @ 1,000 rpm with the stock motor
and up to 25" - 28" if you snap the trottle closed.
I normally ran around 18" @ 1,000 rpm with the stock motor, but I blame that on the age or the car.
and my car with the reground cam pulls 10" @ 1,000 rpm
Last edited by A20A1; 02-11-2003 at 01:08 PM.
- llia
One thing I need to do is get a timing light. Part of the assumption is that since I havent messed with my timing I assume it is within spec. On the other hand, until I check my timing I will stick with the cold advance port plugged. More so because I feel the car responds better that way. Like you say the difference is not earth shattering but was enough for me to detect. I wasnt getting any pinging either so there was nothing detrimental with both ports hooked to manifold vacuum. I guess this could be a FYI piece.
what will happen if i plug both? i have done the conversion, but i still need to tune the a/f ratio and adjust the idle. but the car does idle. it just sounds like a v8 talking to me.
not to sound to stupid but can you give me the link to the page you are talking about cause i would like to do this to my car, and i was also curious does this interfear with the 91 civic intake mod with the short ram intake from autozone...
thanks for the help
DAVE
check the how to it is in there, i did it finally!
Yeah shep... good jobOriginally posted by mindlos
BTW, thanks shepherd79. Your work was definitely not in vain. I was so tired of all the hiccups and farts the car was doing.
Just don't forget to give Eric and I some credit too...
- llia
ok, here is update on how to.
you know how car has nose dive between 2000-3000 rpm after you remove vacuum lines. well, if you remove the air jet controller, and plug the holes your car will perform better between 2000-3000 rpm.
i did on mine last week, and i am very happy.
Alex.
i did include you at the how to. anyway, i can't change it, because Accord EX (mike) is hosting HOW TO for me.Originally posted by A20A1
Yeah shep... good job
Just don't forget to give Eric and I some credit too...
But i still want to thank Eric and Mike (A20A1) for their help.
Alex.
hey Alex ! if you want to change anything just update it and send the file to me @ [email protected] !
it's no bother at all !
MIKE
3geez member since October 4th 2001
Thanks MIkeOriginally posted by A20A1
Yeah shep... good job
Just don't forget to give Eric and I some credit too...
Hey mindlos, I want to remove my vac lines today. I have the weber so I think all of the lines are capped anyways. I don't know about that tree thing with the A, B, and C lines coming out of it. Do I just remove all the tree vac lines to and cap those off? I will have to take a closer look but any help would be grateful
so u plug the Lines running to the carb from the air jet controller?Originally posted by shepherd79
ok, here is update on how to.
you know how car has nose dive between 2000-3000 rpm after you remove vacuum lines. well, if you remove the air jet controller, and plug the holes your car will perform better between 2000-3000 rpm.
i did on mine last week, and i am very happy.
will this effect idle?
From what I'm understanding is that we just plug A, B, and C on the little tree thing.
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