REMOVING VACUUM LINES DISCUSSION

[Dragonfly]

any one got a list of what all the vacum ports on the carb do... i wanna keep my ac idle up and vacum sec. (i can always make it manual l8ter) i seam to have a spare port .... any help would be uuhhhh help full lol

[Dragonfly]

http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...9/516132_2.jpg

what does this stipd thing go to on the carb? thier the fule line port, a caped off port in blue but whats the roundish thing on the left?

[MattsAccord]

what lines can i remove being an LXI? i want to get rid of all that shit from the black box. but im not sure what is good to remove and what is critical. lol

Talk to Justin86 he did it on his car. :cool2:

[bobafett]

cool i will get ahold of him

[Dragonfly]

YESSS i got it all to work dammmmmm its kicks ass compared to how it used to run THANKS!!!

[A20A1]

the diagram lets you keep the choke... the vacuum secondary... and A/C Idle boost... thats why I drew up a new diagram.
you gotta look in the how-to section of the board.
https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?p=354339

[Dragonfly]

i thought the fast idle woulednt work. i had the car siting on a lift at school seting the timing and the car idled down.... what exacly controls that? i have no choke, be nice if i can have the car idle up when its cold

[HondaBoy]

dont know if this is the same you talking about but my car will idle itself up to 3000 rpm if i dont touch the gas when i first start it in the mornings or when engine is cold. anyway, this weekend if i dont get the weber, i will probley try out the emission removal. even if i get the weber, its going to need work so i will have to leave the stock carb on.

[AkDale]

Hi all,
I have spent quite a few hours surfing your pages and have learned a lot in a hurry from a few of you knowlegable gurus. What a wonderful thing the WWW is.
I just acquired an 87 Accord that has a 2 liter carbed engine in it.
All appears to be factory.
The hot idle is terrible and engine wants to die.
Cold idle works great.
Timing is set to specs, Valves are set to specs.
Cannot find any vaccum leaks.
Do you believe that the vaccum removal procedure may resolve this problem?
If I do this mod, I would like to leave the vaccum choke ,the vaccum secondary and the cruise control.
How does this procedure affect the fuel mileage?
Is there a down side to this mod other than dealing with the SMOG Nazis?
Thanx,
Dale

[k-roy]

It sounds like your idle needs adjusted while the car is fully warmed up. Check the howto section for a couple differant articles on that.
After doing this trick you will still need to tweak the carb a little. It should help give you car a more steady idle. I removed my choke because it was inopritive, you can still use the vacuum secondary and the cruise control, just do not disconnect them and make sure they still have a vacuum source.
I think I actually get better milage after this mod. I can't really see any other problems, minus getting it past inspections (witch I don't have).

[AkDale]

It sounds like your idle needs adjusted while the car is fully warmed up. Check the howto section for a couple differant articles on that.
After doing this trick you will still need to tweak the carb a little. It should help give you car a more steady idle. I removed my choke because it was inopritive, you can still use the vacuum secondary and the cruise control, just do not disconnect them and make sure they still have a vacuum source.
I think I actually get better milage after this mod. I can't really see any other problems, minus getting it past inspections (witch I don't have).

Thanks for the reply.
My choke is working great. I tried to adjust the idle while engine was up to temp.---Turned in the throttle stop screw 'bout 1 turn. The engine idles at 1200 rpm +- 100. It still sounds like an intermittent miss , but at least it is not dieing.
Earlier today, I turned the idle back down to 1000 rpm---Engine sometimes idles really rough, slowly loses rpm then dies. Sometimes on its own, after having lost several hundred rpm, the engine revs up to about 2000 rpm, then settles back to about 1000 rpm. It never has a smoothe idle.

Is it true that the distys. go bad fairly often in these engines? How to check?
Thanks,
Dale

[k-roy]

A distributor failing is not uncommon for our cars.

My idle has never really been smooth, untill recently when I installed an Accel coil.
It idles smoothe, revs quicker and I think I am getting a bit better mileage.

You might still have a small vacuum leak. Check the hose that goes to the brake booster. Then redo what 5 or so hoses you have and double check all the vacuum caps. It could also be a leaking carb to manifold gasket. After that I don't know what to tell you, other than keep turning those screws till you get the perfect setting.
The two other possibilities are the distributor or the carb needs rebuilt. If anyone knows how to test a distributor when its outside of the car I want to know.

[accordlxi2.0]

:cool2: i don't know if this should b in performance or what. it's up to tha mod's.
but today i removed the air jet controller , plug the line's, removed the two of those white thingy's. i left the one that's connected to the egr.
redid my custom "air filter" moved it torward's the finder.
started it up let it run till it warmed up. Tuned the A/F screw.
now the car perform's better.
that hesitation problem is still there about 95% of it went away.
and the powerband does'nt drop as much like it used to.
man it feel's just like my lxi

[Bryan]

You should get some pics of it.

[sporkHSP]

god, i wish i wasnt retarded, then i might be able to do something worthwhile to my car and be happy with it...

[accordlxi2.0]

you could it's simple.
in about 2 week's i'll take pic's.
the response is nice.
it peel's out ;spin's both wheel's
orignaly on carb accord's
speed @ 60mph w/ locked t/c 2800rpms
before i did this with the other modification's it was 60mph w/ locked t/c about 2400rpms.
i'm gonna go place's tomarrow where it require's hiway drive's so i'll tell you the improvment's.

[accordlxi2.0]

well for quite sometime my car had this smell of gas, i thought maybe it was due to the pump accel. having some gas on the outside, sometime's but it did'nt yesterday and i still smelled gas.
today i was looking and one of the line's i had plugged was wet i wiped it with my finger smeled it and it smelled like gas.
it does'nt have a number on it, i never touched that line i just plugged it, but from what i seen from the how to's it look like it's from vacuum port airjet controller letter A.
is this normal, i think maybe this was the reason why it may have hesitation. . . . . . . . .anyone , any advice is appriciated
thanx's

[shepherd79]

there shouln't be any fuel there.
i think your carb needs new gaskets. get the rebuild kit and rebuild the carb. don't forget to clean it while you rebuilding it.
is your carb running rich?

[A20A1]

https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=31606
My last post in that thread touches on a problem simmilar to what you're experiencing.

I would seriously check the top hat gasket though.
and check to see that the float level doesn't sit above the halfway mark by too much.

[accordlxi2.0]

oh . . . . .don't mean to sound like a retard . . . . .so your saying i should take that line and add it to a manifold vacuum???



oh and shepard i will check the top of the carb.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Mike I was planning on rebuilding my carb next week and I saw that www.carbsunlimited.com had two different rebuild kits. One was an aftermarket one (not Weber) but it came with the power valve in the kit and is only like $18.99 compared to $29.00 (and that doesn't come with the power valve)

And the floats are either brass or neoprene. What is the best to use?

I'm rebuilding it mainly b/c I'm finally putting on my custom weber intake manifold and I want to clean up my carb and fix the vacuum leak it has at the base of the carb.

I hooked up one of those smoke machines we have at our shop at school and you could see the smoke coming out between the carb adapter and carb base. So I'm thinking that the guy that helped me do it overtightend the adapter plate so it might have warped a bit. I plan to have that resurfaced so its perfectly flat.

But I just wanted your opinion on which carb kit and float you thought was best. And I figured I would post this here and let the others know since accordlxi2.0 will need one too.


-Mike

[A20A1]

I said that manifold vacuum caused gas to go thru the air jet ports, so manifold vacuum is bad.

[accordlxi2.0]

but that's the thing i took the air jet off, plug all the abc port's. and i belive the other line's are wet with gas too.
i can't leave them un capped cause the idle will be wierd fluntuating.
so anyone else with any sugestion . . . .

[shepherd79]

when you removed the vacuum lines, which HOW TO did you follow?

[accordlxi2.0]

let's see i removed the air jet controller, plugged those line.
took off throttle controller.
took off those plastic thing's that sit above the alternator, i did'nt take off the one connected to the egr valve, cause i still want that.
plugged the a/c idle boost since it does'nt work.
plugged the line's from the thermo valve's since those don't work.
i tapped direct manifold to the choke unloader and fast idle unloader (together).
the secondary is controlled by the solenoid but not by the thermovalve.
it was dark out but i was able to look at the top, but i did'nt take it off, cause it was dark.
but i seen two gasket's, they're two gaskets?!
i did'nt wanna connect the dizzy vac advance together cause i did this and it was worse.
i still want my secondary (elect. controlled)
my cruise
my choke
unless i can start my car with out it.

that's about it did i do something wrong??????