you mean two layers of gaskets? there should only be one... get a new top hat gasket.
you mean two layers of gaskets? there should only be one... get a new top hat gasket.
- llia
then this should solve that gas smell problem too right, and what about those a,b,c, port's? like i said i can't leave them un capped.
look here http://members.fortunecity.com/accor...cuum_lines.htm
and tell me what lines did you pluged.
Alex.
if ur float level is too high ur going to leak gas every where theres a chance it could be going into the vac. lines
its not how fast you go, its how fast you get going.
let's see i plugged,
the A,B,C, port's took the air jet out.
i plugged those plastic thing's that sat above the alternator, i think those were air control valve's
plugged all the ports that were conected to the thermovalve.
so the fast idle unloader and choke unloader are in the same line.
plugged the a/c idle boost cause i think it does'nt work.
plugged the line that conneted to the air pulser.
so what i do wrong.
UPDATE:::
i know some of yall may be disappointed in me, but i took one of the top gasket off and left which ever was better on.
wiped off the top and cleaned as best i could cause i did'nt have any carb cleaner.
umm let's see . . . .i connected everything back plugged that port bac.
i started it up and the float shot up over the glass, the engine was stumbling.
i was able to get the level back, and i turned the a/f screw and with 1 turn it idle like nothing.
drove it and the acceleration is better.
the gas smeel is'nt as bad as it would be.
but i still have another problem, when i disconnected vac. line 25 from the distributor, vacuum was still there, is'nt vacuum only supposed to be there when the engine is cold?
let me ask you a question? are you trying to keep the choke?
because if you are not follow my how to http://members.fortunecity.com/accor...cuum_lines.htm
if you want to keep the choke follow Mike's (A20A1) how to https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=11067
i really don't know what you did, but it sounds like your carb needs major adjusting.
Alex.
yea . . . itrying to keep the choke but . . . . . . .like i said before if i can start her with out the choke then i really dont need it.
damn i thought someone whould know about those plastic thing's that sit's above the alternator.
i plug those.
i did'nt connect the secondary vac. port directly to the secondary.
wait a minute so those three port's at the top of the carb. in the back are supposed to be plugged.
forgive me man for being an ass.
i don't know honda carb's like i would gm's.
and i'm more intouch with efi's than carb's.
thanx!!
if you look at my how to, i completly removed every single thing. i just had one vacuum line running to the carb, intake manifold and distributor.
i had no problem running.
i didn't have the choke.
Alex.
that's wierd cause when i set the throttle controller the right way one of the guy's on the baord said that the choke should be set.
which one of the reason the car would start ; to set the choke, now the t/c set it, but i still would have to push the gas in oder for it to start.
don't ask me way but i still wanna keep my FIU, egr, cruise.
and secondary.
how are you able to start with out a choke, . . . . . .u still have to push the gas right?
The float bowl will drain if the car sits... also the fuel line begins to empty... so it's gonna take a few turns of the key to fill the bowl.
Plastic things above the alt? are you keeping bits and peices of emissions equiptments and trying to remove the vacuum lines at the same time?
Uncharted territory. lol
I think you should connect the secondary directly to the port on the carb...
The float level went over the middle of the window? and you said you adjusted the A/F screw did you mean the float screw?
- llia
um wait so after tha car sit's awhile the fuel bowl drain's???! no wonder.
so how much though hmmm?
yea i'm trying to keep some of the emission's. so you really think that i should do that to the secondary? will it be more responsive, and gain a lil' more power?
yea the float overfilled when i took off one of the gasket's put everything back on then started it up then it filled up, but i turn the screw quite a few time's in order for it to go down.
the engine was making popping sound's and it seemed like it was "trying to find" the right idle, cause it was fluntuating.
so went a barely turned the a/f srew the idle was perfect, but i think it still has a leak, so i'm gonna check when i have some more time.
thanx man.
hmm about that float level setting, you shouldn't have to turn the screw that mcuh... you might have a leak from one of the o-rings... sometimes its sealed and other times it leaks... I don't think the extra layer of gasket would have thrown your float level off by much... I would get a handful of new o-rings from a hardware store or something to replace the 2 that are on there just to be safe. then readjust the float level.
The sizes are a bit hard to find... I don't remember what they were...
Last edited by A20A1; 03-29-2004 at 12:19 AM.
- llia
i'm back i did'nt get to finish the line's like you guy's have, i know i've made some error.
but i have a couple more question's.
okay where the charcol canister is there is a plastic hose that's leading from the bottom.
when i had the car on a lift and the engine runnig, i felt air comiing from out of this hose is this normal???
okay i basically did what you guy's did.
the secondary is connected to the carb.
and i was reading about what mike had said, about the accel pump , and the secondary opening faster, so that's what happen's, which is why i have to make a air filter and move the filter further away from the carb . . . again.
the choke unloader and fast idle unloader is connected the same.
and for some reason, vac line #25 is getting vacuum too.
when i dissconnected the line and pluged it the idle remained the same connected it back, it went up.
all, A, B, C, carb port's are plugged.
the trottle controller is tapped right into the manafold.
i over rode the thermo valve's, cause no of them work's.
oh yea a20, you said that the float bowl's empty's out, but it was'nt it was below the bottom line, but there was gas in the and the throttle controller reset's the choke, so i would continuosly crank but it does'nt turn until i tap the gas.
i still don't get it though, why am i'm getting suck low gas milege . . . . . .
caused you plugged A B C... they lean the fuel mixture. If you remove it you use more fuel.
- llia
oh . . . i did'nt know that . . . . . and this hesitation is caused by the fact that the secondary open's qicker than before . . . right.
hmm with direct vacuum it should open on time, I think its a fuel problem... I know I used to have a stumble off the line, then i added the FPR to increase the fuel pressure and it totally got rid of the problem but add the a new problem which was the fuel lock out. I believe the only way to elliminate the hesitation is to upgrade the fuel pump... something that flows better.
- llia
The problem was a slight delay with the mechanical secondary, not vacuum secondary casue the lever sometimes didn't connect fully with the linkage... so there is this mico gap but it must make a big difference.
- llia
oh . . . .one more thing . . . i lnow, i know . . . . but please baer with me hear.
okay i have tha civic adapter air box on, when i had the top lid off and driving no problem, when i put it back on the performance sucked, i made the diamiter bigger, moved the "filter" more torward's the battery (it feel's like ima have to move it further)
it's been a little better,i don't see how it has the fuel lock out, due to the accel. pump, squirting out fuel than spraying like it used too.
hey a20a1 also when i floor it (while moving ) or when the secondary open up, it run's rich (smell's like pumpkin seed's when mixture is rich).
anyone????????
oh shit, a while ago I found fuel in that line (A) too but I thought it was normal....no problems......yet
My 1989 LX Carb. A.K.A. "Hoop Ride" (R.I.P.)
okay i found where the gas smell was coming from . . .it the accel pump.
there's gas around it.
so i need somemore advice . . . .
okay when i checked the a/c idle boost w/ voltmeter, connected to black/red i was getting very little volt's like .300dc but when i connected the black lead to ground and had red lead to red wire i was getting 2.0 or more volt's is that right??????
plus should i just replace the bottom part of the pump accel or should i get a carb from the j/y.
i don't wanna get a new one cause i'll be converting.
SO any advice is welcomed . . . . . . .
well the accel pump diaphragm can be replaced... it will require you to remove the carb though... or if you have the emissions lines gone you could probably get away with the carb still installed.
- llia
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