you know what A20A1, i getting fed up, i go to start it this morning and i had the idle staedy and it went down, shut off, the POS had flooded, the float glass was overfilled, so i had to screw it down more gas came out from the top, i had to raise the thrttole stop screw too . . . . you think i should jus get one from the j/y. . . maybe it'll sovle my hesitation, flooding, bad mpg, popping problem.
oh what about my a/c boost issue????
I have no idea about the idle boost... thats the least of your worries.
replacing the o-rings is a snap... as long as they don't snap when you install the new ones.
You have 2 ways to get the float out of the way in order to remove the vloat valve... you can remove the metal pin that the float pivots on... or you can remove the retaining tab on the side of the float just enoug so you can squeeze the float past the stopper and out of the way of the float valve so you can remove the valve.
take the o-rings and valves to a store that sells 0-rings and try and find one that fits... you can go slightly larger but too large and the float screw wont go back in... on second thought bring the carb top hat with you as well, just make sure you save all the screws and any little part that comes off the top hat in a bag.
- llia
And don't lose the float needle. (on the right)
If you remove the retaining tab on the float... you'll have to refill the float bowl with gas and be very careful to set the float needle back inside the valve before reinstalling the top hat. The refilling of the float bow limits the float movement so it lessens the chance of the float dropping too far and the needle falling out of the valve.
- llia
If you have set your float too low that would cause your hesitation right there... it would also cause a lean mixture at idle and under throttle. The recent flooding was probably a broken o-ring, they sometimes seal themselves with enough playing around, but it's better to buy a few new ones.
As for the bad MPG, well it's hard to say, it could be too much throttle at idle because you were trying to keep the carb alive... and it could be a fuel leak either from the float screw or accel pump diaphragm. or the a/f screw is really far out and your slurping fuel at idle... but the a/f screw really shouldn't make that much of a difference.
Last edited by A20A1; 04-07-2004 at 07:26 AM.
- llia
I hope this helps some... the o-rings are very old and might have permanently streatched some when I removed them. But the measuremnts are fairly close.
- 3/8" Top O-ring
- 1/2" Lower O-ring
- llia
THANX A WHOLE MAN. I'Ma DO that. Well i had it at a proper level and it still did it, so the only thing i would need from the pump accel. is the bottom piece?
plus yesterday while driving i came to a stop and the idle was increasing from 800 to 1,000rpm in drive, then while in park it was about 1,300rpm.
so when i got to where i needed to be ,i shut it off, started back up and it was fine, in drive, but in park the idle fluntuated. plus there are various way's i can tell if the a/f mixture is rich or lean.
if the screw is in too far, the exhaust would make popping sound's at idle,
i think the carb reall need some claening.
so i'm gonna get some carb cleaner and seafoam stuff,
unless you have some more idea's
Vacumm Removal>>Results
First off, if it sounds like an internal miss, good possibility that your mixture is to rich.
Let me start off by saying that I had a hell of a time trying to dial in my Kliehn
Carb ( following the initial diagram ). What were you boys thinking? First off, by plugging the main air control jet (front of carb) you need to replace the main jets. The car will run way to rich, miss, deep-exhaust note, smoke, and run like shit.
If you don't want this hastle hook up your air jet controler to the air contol jets (2 slow air control jet(primary & secondary bore) & 1 main air control jet.
**By the way, not all carbed models have a air jet controler (Can. models).
>>>had to remove the one off of my parts car<<<
Car is good on gas, has an excellent bottom to mid-range hit (noticeable improvement)!
But the car runs a little lean on the top-end (no improvement).
Any suggestions??
i never had any problems.
i removed the air controler, and add another spacer in the middle of the carb.
it switched from running rich to running just right.
Alex.
We know it runs rich... thats why I'm swapping mains and air correction in my keihin modding thread.
- llia
IT was the mixture.Originally Posted by Pro_Mod_Accord
I had to pull the carb to get to the mixture screw.
Put the carb back on, The carb was running so lean that I had to open the mixture screw by almost two turns.
I dont think there were any vac leaks, and if there were, they were cured when I put the carb back on.
Been driving it for almost two weeks 100+ miles per day. 34mpg. Idle is smooth. I am a happy camper. Don't think that I am going to try the Vac removal ---Until Necessary.
Thanks for the help.
Dale
All those pics still didn't get me to think about replacing the small filter on the float valve... well at least clean the darn thing... I bet a few of the members here could benifit some from cleaning that part out, as well as the float bowl, each time the other 2 fuel filters are replaced, and maybe even the strainer at the end of the fuel pickup inside the tank.
4 filters... what were they thinking?
- llia
HUH? what filter?.......
not a filter exactly, it's more like a screen. just slip it off and shoot it down with carb cleaner.
- llia
ummm where???? whould i be looking again???
the valve is the float adjustment screw itself... if you remove the screw you';; see the screen.
- llia
hmm, looks like i'll have alot to do . . . . .
okay thanx again, i know i'm bugging the shit out of ya, but how whould i clean the a/f port also too???????
take the top of the carb off, remove the screw but remember how many turns the screw is... like turn it in till it gets tight while counting the turns, then remove the screw... look for the open port above the float adjustment screw... then shoot the cleaner straight down and some cleaner should come out of the hole as well.
Last edited by A20A1; 04-17-2004 at 04:36 PM.
- llia
thanx!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i'll give you an update.
hey does anyone knows what a carb. thermovalve is, and what it does???????
I thought you knew? there are like 3 thermovalves, 2 on the back of the manifold and 1 on the thermostat... or do you mean like an internal valve, I think someone posted a very detailed carb pic with a small copper/brass diaphragm... that might have been temp controlled.
- llia
oh i know those thermovalve's, but this one is mounted on the driver side of the carb.
it has a tiny ass vac line going to it, but it has a big ass line leaving from it.
i checked with the engine warm, it's not holding vacuum. . . . .
the reason i asked cause, it been about 80* once the engine temp reaches it's piont and i'm sitting in traffic the idle goes up , one time it even went up to 1,300rpms! while in drive!
what up with that??
oh BTW i like your idea , when you turn the ign. key 2x's and then start it up . . .
oh . . . man . . . . . okay, but i was talking about the hole's where the air/fuel goes in, i would'nt even think about porting the venturi's . . . . . . . .
I didn't mean to get jumpy but it's always a good idea to make a new thread or to ask car technical or performance related questions in a thread instead of in a PM so I don't have to answer the same question again when someone else asks it.
okay, man it's a big difference, the hesitation is still there but not as much as it used to be, it purr's, no poping, it has more power on the low-end.
but i think the secondary is running rich i think.
it's me again, so far the gas milege is good i drove for about 63miles and the gauge read's a little past full.
but i still have one problem, if i'm still sitting in traffic once it reaches it's normal temp. i push the gas it stay's idled @ 1,000 rpm, in drive but in park it went up to about 1,500 . . . . .how in the hell do you disable this carb thermovalve.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks