REMOVING VACUUM LINES DISCUSSION

[A20A1]

well of course the idle will raise to 1500 in neutral.
From 900 mine would usually go to 1,200 in neutral.
It just seems like the idle adjustment is off (idle diaphragm / throttle controller - left side of carb)... you should make all the adjustments while the car is fully warm.

I forgot what you have written in past posts but have you ever changed the top hat gasket... a lot of internal carb leaks can be solved from replacing the gasket... oh fuck me.... fuuuck me I just remembered something... I figured out why gas was in the air jet controller on this one guys car... gawd damn. but yeah he needs to replace that gasket too.

[accordlxi2.0]

um yea . . . ., but as for my idle rasing the idle booster solenoid and a/c ilde solennoid is not conected to the diapram . . . one being i forgot how it was conected . . do you????

plus everytime it does raise up i put my foot under the padel and lightly pull it and it.
and it goes down, my idle in drive is @650rpm (i think it's the line under 1,000rpm???)
and when it's in park i say about 900-1,000rpm's.. . . . . . .

i really apriciate your help man i'm sorry for all these qusetion's i'm asking . . . . just trying 2 be experieced as you are . . . . . . .

[A20A1]

so your pedal/cable is getting stuck... you still have the choke function though... maybe it's the fast idle crap.

the idle diaphragm hooks to a manifold vacuum port... so hook it to a main line that comes off the manifold. The a/c idle boost does the same but it first goes to a solenoid then to manifold vacuum.

[A20A1]

if you want to remove the thermovalves just plug all the vacuum lines... where do they connect to anyways? you're not talking about the float bowl vent are you? cause that is mounted on the carb and has a small vacuum line on it and a big vacuum line.

[accordlxi2.0]

yea that's the one but on my manual it's called a carb. thermovalve.
it's wierd that you say the pedal get's stuck cause it does'nt do it with the engine is cold, or warm but when it reaches normal temp, that's when it'll do it . . . . .

[accordlxi2.0]

plus the um . . . . . fast idle unloader is connected to a manafold line.

oh as for the 2 solenoid's i think i got em mixed up as for connecting it, . . . .

[accordlxi2.0]

hey a20a1 how's 210 on a full tank in the city. . . . . .
well first it was still full around the first 50mile's, then on 1/2 mark it was 150, now's it's 210 . . . . . .
maybe i should've clean all the vacuum line's . . .

[accordlxi2.0]

(knocking) . . . . hello anyone here ??????

[A20A1]

sorry, I really don't keep track of milage to know any better.

[accordlxi2.0]

well i know that i'm not supposed to get 210 on a full tank i filled it today i drove on the hiway and city and got about 75 and it's not no where near the 1/2 mark

[A20A1]

If you have a flat head 1/8" wide then you can remove the idle jet and clean it... I just looked in some of my used carbs and found the idle jet clogged with all sorts of gunk... might want to check that out just becasue... it may be tricky to extract it when you can't til the carb to make the jet fall out of it's hole... perhaps and small pick and fish it out.

[accordlxi2.0]

huh????????
the idle jet which one is that??

[A20A1]

open up the top hat of the carb and look between the float bowl and the primary barrel... it's down in one of the holes.

[accordlxi2.0]

thanx man i'll try to do that tomarrow plus i think i know what the other problem is . . . .everytime the secondary open's it run's rich i mean you can smell it, is there a way to get rid of this problem???? or do you think that when i move the air filter further that'll take care of the problem???

[accordlxi2.0]

okay i clean everything again, and i put on a msd coil, now i adjusted the a/f screw i do it both way's, one by idle and the other is exhuast popping sound, and usally it does'nt pop when the screw is far out (or easy to turn) but today it did'nt pop until the rpm's reached about 750, which seemed good to me . . . . . . .
and it does'nt do the take off hesitation as much i say 10% left is due to the filter.
the gas smell was the pump accel. loose i tighted on the 4/29.
now it loose again, (i guess due to heat or me not tighting as much as i should).

but a few more problem's still remain, my a/c solenoid, since i'm guessing that's it's a ground problem i tried goin near a better ground, still the volt's did'nt change . . . .
plus the idle problem, . . . . .i'm really pissed, it like once it get's hot under the hood, you push the gas and it goes up and stay's at 1,000rpm's.
today it was worse it got up too 1,600rpm's,in drive!!!!!!!!
can someone help me PLEASE??????

[A20A1]

are you sure your throttle stop screw or idle diaphragm isn't set too high? When you have too much throttle it becomes harder to idle and you pull less gas thru the idle circuit... and adjustments to the idle circuit don't have as big as an affect ans it would if the throttle was closed more...

[accordlxi2.0]

nope everything is fine, in fact i think it's temp related because it was raining i just got in, and teh engine temp was lower than normal, and it did'nt do it at all, do you think i need a new ecu, cause like i said the a/c solenoid and that other solenoid ( i think the idle control solenoid) is beside the a/c soleniod, is not getting any voltage either, now the solenoid by the wiper motor is though . . . . .i'm pissed make's me wanna sell the car . . . . . .

[A20A1]

isn't the A/C solenoid the one by the wiper motor though... I forget.

[accordlxi2.0]

hmmm i don't think so and if it is then thats stuck on , now another problem arises . . . .i belive there is a vac. leak within the fast idle unloader, cause i can start it WITHOUT pumping the gas. YAY, but the idle stay's high up to 1,400 rpm's and wont go down until the engine is a little warm, and i push the gas.
not even cause as soon as i turned it off it started doing it again, but this time it did'nt go down . . unless i adjusted the throttle stop and throttle controller so now my rpm's is at 300rpm's in drive.
are you sure that this "ecu" is'nt capable of doing anything.
if it is should i replace it????

[A20A1]

it's capable... of turning on and off the solenoids in the black box.. which can bleed vacuum or hold it... I just don't see it malfunctioning.

I just took apart a fast idle unloader, how do you know it's leaking? it's seems very beefy and a hard part to start leaking... maybe one of the vacuum lines but the diaphragms are tough... there is the internal vacuum line to the choke opener that may influence the fast idle unloader thru vacuum line from the choke opener.

problem is the bolt holding the choke opener to the carb is hard to get to, so it wont be easy to tighten or replace the o-ring in there if it was leaking.



so you turned the car off and then started it and the idle was really high? that doesn't make sense how you would need to drop the throttle to 300 to kick it off high idle?

Just set the throttle stop to the lowest possible running idle after the car is fuly warmed and you have passed that point where your car is hot and chooses to raise the idle... then go ahead and raise the idle to something more stable using the throttle controller... also you might find it better to connect the throttle controller directly to manifold vacuum, bypassing the check valve and any other solenoids or valves.

I'm not stopping you from replacing the ECU... if you are sure it's the problem.

[accordlxi2.0]

ummm . . .look man first off i wanna say thanx for seeing me trough this, i really apriciate it.
well i've been having it idle at 250 in drive.
it's like when i had shut it off, for about 10-20 minute's the temp was within the normal area but it was low, it still high idled, till i pushed the gas.

the reason i suspect the fiu, cause when i start the car i don't have to push the gas for one, then it idle's at 1,000rpm's.
which i love it's like having efi again.
when this first happenedi took the hose out of the connector, then reconnect it the idle went down, plus when you close the choke and kinda pull the throttle cable it goes into fast idle mode, but before i could'nt make do it (that was my plan cause i did'nt want it to.)

so maybe the choke puller thingy is causing it to fuck up hmm . . .

[accordlxi2.0]

i'ma little concerned okay the engine sound's like it's shooting out air or something, and i found the problem.
the previous owner looks like he attempted to do a tune up, and screw in one of the sparkplug's wrong.
plus the spark plug was nearly out, but when i took out the sparkplug a few of the thread's looked stripped.
i put it back, until someone can give me some info , if my the cylinder haed is not messed up??
plus the cylinder head is new too!
so did the previous owner screw up the sparkplus hole??


plus i took a look at the carb, thier's alot of brown stuff around the secondary barrel, too.
then on the pass. side (when engine warm) thier's these 2 solenoid's i think that control's the throttle thingy, but they constantly click on and off, is this normal?
then when the engine is cold on the driver side there are these 2 solenoid's by the wiper motor they click on and off until the engine warm's.
a few day's ago i let it warm up, ran it, turned it off, and helped my dad with his car, and once i went to put it in the garage.
i go to start it, and it sounding like it was out of gas, then all of a sudden it revved to 1,500rpm's then normal idle.

then when the engine warm's, you push the gas and it'll hold to 2,000rpm's.
it's something holding it . . . . .
can anyone shed some light on this . . . . . . .

[A20A1]

That frequency solenoid is the clicky one I think...

Anyways seems like you need to clean the carb.

[accordlxi2.0]

yea i'm gonna, once i get some more money.

but what about the spark plug thingy??

[Ludi Mali]

if the threads in the hole are stripped i think you're screwed, yuou'd have to have it re-threaded, but if its just the spark plugs then you could just buy new ones. not sure if the threads on the spark plugs are strong enough to strip the threads in the engine.