REMOVING VACUUM LINES DISCUSSION

[88Accord-DX]

*edit if not needed*

[accordlxi2.0]

well i looked thru the hole it seemed fine but i won't know till i put in oone of the old one's.
i just hope it'll run fine with it.

[accordlxi2.0]

okay i put one of my old spark plug in.
it seem's fine.
now about the revving high when the enigine is warm, (a20a1 you know what i'm talkin' bout).
it seem's the throttle is being held.
cause you push then it rev's to about 2,000rpm's.
then it saty's then you push the gas there is no slack.
so something is holding or pulling it or something . . . .
has anyone have this problem before???????????

[A20A1]

How long has this been happening?

For now if you can't find any vacuum leaks and the spark plug is sealed good then...

adjust your idle when the car is fully warm...
do it at the idle diaphragm...
maek usre eht choke and everything is open...

...
then later see how it runs at cold idle...
andmake sure the choke is operation right.

...
still you should clen the carb.

[accordlxi2.0]

ever since i got the car.
the choke is fully open when warm.
i'll check when it's cold.
oh yea i'm gonna clean the carb.
the car misses sometime's.
also i notice when you brake not REAL hard but hard the rear lock's up.
but when you brake real hard all of em lock up, some what.
on my 86 all of lock up when i push the brake's real hard.
but it's like that on the sable too.


but braggin' right's.
with the window's rolled up.
it's so quiet, and when the engine is warmed, you don't feel anything.
the car has some impressive torque steer.
and it can even peel out(i think it's the cheap new tire's).
but all in all. i like it.

[accordlxi2.0]

okay the choke open's fine, plus it take's very little time opening fully either.

but something is bothering me, sorry . . . . . it's the a.i.r. system
when i disconnected the line it was still operating . . . .why?
is thier a way to disable that permanantly?
the engine is 5x's quieter without.

and that idle problem i'm gonna lower the rpm's and adjust the a/f, cause it's running a bit rich . . . .
but it's still doing that idle this time it was at 2,500rpm's.

[accordlxi2.0]

[accordlxi2.0]

okay well i could'nt wait so i went on ahead and did a20a1's vacuum removal mod, but! . . . .only half.
i took off those white thingy's plugged the lines up. . . . .
but the a.i.r. valve still sucking i don't get it!!!!!!!!
plus here i am an se-i user and i just figured out the idle boost also controls the a/c booster thingy.
they have thier own separate lines.

and the throttle controller, is wired i adjusted it to 1900rpms, then attached the vacuum line back....
which did'nt work till i turned off the car and started it back up.
it'll rev to 1,500rpms for about 2 seconds then go down 1,000rpms.
then it would shut off.
then i had adjusted the a/c throttle.... and i really pushed it in, so now what it does is it'll rev to 1,500rpms then go down to 650 (or the white line under 1,000 rpm mark).
then i shift from P to R or D, then it'll stumble then go back to 650rpms.
then once i place it in park or nuetral, it'll rev to 1,000rpms then go back down to 650rpms.
i mean this happens quickly.
i'm impressed, i even flipped the lid, sounds pretty good, you can actully tell when the secondary kicks in.

plus a20a1 you was right i don't need to adjust the a/f screw.
once i removed those white things, and the abc, plug the lines,but kept the egr fuel vapor and some other stuff. it runs a bit smoother, and plus water comes out the tail which never did that.

i tired to heck the distributor cap , but i can't get it off which looks like the original cap, the wire were, so the cap is probably too.
so i have a efi distributor, i'm going to put it on tomarrow, plus do the ground wire thing also.

[A20A1]

Didn't we already discuss this? you told me you removed the vacuum line to the air suction valve and it still sucked air... so I assumed the valve is stuck open (broken)

The ABC removal richened the mixture and now the cat has more gases to convert so thats probably why you get the water.

...
and the throttle controller, is wired i adjusted it to 1900rpms, then attached the vacuum line back....

You adjusted the throttle controller / idle diaphragm without the vacum line attatched? Which vacuum line are you refering to?

The TC needs to have vacuum while you make the adustments. If you're going to disconnect the vacuum line to the TC you need to back the TC adjustment screw all the way out and set the throttle stop screw to a good low idle while in neutral.

[accordlxi2.0]

no. no. my bad man,
what i meant to say was, well you know, since the TC has vacuum pulling it back right??
well i disconnected the line, to see if the rpms would raise, and it did'nt.
so what i did was turned the screw till the rpms reached 1,900.
then i connected the vacuum line back, then the rpms went down.

i still have vac. to the a/c booster (because the a/c works) and TC.

as for the a.i.r. system, those white things were still connected, which had a vac. line going to it, so i thought thats why it was still sucking but i guess i was wrong.

before i did this the tail pipe would make popping sounds at idle, and would'nt spit out any water.
now after removing 1/2 of it, i get water and the popping sound is less WAY less.
i'm gonna put on the efi dizzy, hopefully that'll take care of it.

[accordlxi2.0]

okay i adjusted my t/v cable and it sucked, but i backed it off, and it's within MY specs...
plus i put on the efi distributor.....
and it works but it's advanced because that's the only position i can have it in, till i get the efi thermo housing.

it idle's smoother acceleration is faster, i had to use premium fuel cause it was knocking, i did'nt like that.
but it's better.

[accordlxi2.0]

i'm so pissed at myself i could kick myself in the ass.....
okay i so call did a radiator flush...
with my water hose it has good pressure so i thought get all that rust stuff out of the system.
so i ran it in, till the water turned clear, and thats what it did... turn clear.
so i put in this pure antifreeze no 50/50 type antifreeze.
so i let it run.
so i was driving and i drove it hard, and like an hour later i noticed the gauge go to the 1/2 mark.
but i did'nt pay attention because the car ran sooooo good.. i don't know how, but it did!
then about 5 minutes later it rises above the half mark and made its way to the H mark.
so i turned on the heater to prevent it from over heating.
get out, and wondered why my fans did'nt turn on.
then they turned on.

so i let some of the coolant out, and put in water.
the new coolant was brown (but it was originally brown anyway to begin with some new thing i guess).

now it wiat's till the 1/2 - and a somewhat above the 1/2 mark till the fans turn on.
plus it warms up quicker too, and as i said before it seems to perform better, than just having water in the system . . . . .
can someone help me out, did i fry the sensors or something.

[buds302]

you might of messed up the temp sending unit. when you did thin was the car running? or well you live in chicago so it was probly cold outside. but if the car was running the sudden blast of cold water might of messed up the sending unit. i dont know but thats what happened to me. some body else i know had this problem and it turned out to be not enough fluid creating air pockets. i know my old 3gee i had to rig up the fans to a switch so i could turn them on when needed.

[AccordEpicenter]

yea you probably either need one of 2 things, im gonna say its either a semi plugged radiator or a 'stat... make sure you crack the bleeder on the thermostat housing, they are notorious for creating air pockets.

[accordlxi2.0]

i just went out there to check the level and it was low like to the part where you can see the holes.
so what i did was took off the top hose and some brown stuff mixed with the water and anitfreeze came out, and i put some 50/50 antifreeze in.
now it does'nt go above the half way mark and when i have the heat on it goes lower.

as for the sending unit it works the same as before.
i'm guessing that slude stuff was covering the fan sensor and was preventing it from coming on.

when i first flushed it, the engine was luke warm on the block.
then i flushed it with water, go to start it up for a second thought so the pump can get out all the water.

the t-stat is good...
because when i first did this the bottom hose was warm, and the top was cold, then the the bottom went from warm to cold, and the top was warm.
so it works...
i want to get it back to the lower level it should be because i have a feeling that when it's on the 1/2 mark then the t-stat is probably open.

what do yall think.

[AccordEpicenter]

stats can get stuck halfway or clogged too. I had the same problem with my 95 after the engine swap... If nothing helps try a different radiator

[accordlxi2.0]

i think what helps is when i'm constantly on the gas pedal, it seemed to help...
plus as i said for some reason the car performs better. which i like.
plus i've been thinking about moving the sesor to the thermo housing i mean it should be like that anyway .....right?

[POS carb]

i went through a million of those stupid sensors. The LXi has more than mine though. It should be the same principle on your fans. Basically you unplug the wire going to the bottom of the radiator and put a jumper pin in there (short the two pins to eachother). The fans should come on only when the car is on. However, since the LXi has a timer I believe they may stay on even when the car is off... anyone else know?

It shouldn't hurt to try it...

[accordlxi2.0]

yeat thats true, the little fan stays on after the car is off, for 15 minutes.

okay an update....
i go out this morning and the tank was empty and it has some sludge stuff in it!
and i filled it up, and it's a little better....
but as for these "ecu" for us carb guys, we think they don't really do jack but they do.
i know i have air pockets now, because the fast idle comes on, then once it "feels" the temp, it'll go back down.
so i'm gonna let some more of the coolant out...
but i belive whoever had the car before me put some leak sealer in it or something.........

[smufguy]

i went through a million of those stupid sensors. The LXi has more than mine though. It should be the same principle on your fans. Basically you unplug the wire going to the bottom of the radiator and put a jumper pin in there (short the two pins to eachother). The fans should come on only when the car is on. However, since the LXi has a timer I believe they may stay on even when the car is off... anyone else know?

It shouldn't hurt to try it...

no the timer does not let it do that. Thats how mine is now I put a switch in there so that when warming up the fan is off and also when its in Ignition II i can have the rad fan on to cool off or turn it off. In the EFI cars, both the fans dont come on, so i had the fans run in parallel. My gauge shows Halfway all the time (fucked up gauge) but i got 50/50 coolant and water and also redline stuff in there.

accordlxi2.0: You should not use anymore than 50% of water dude. Atleast you should not since u live up north. What kinda water did u use? you should use nothing else besides Distilled water.

[accordlxi2.0]

oh shit so that was my problem.
i knew something was up...
the car had been leaking in the garage, at that time it was sitting, so i put water in plus that brown rust looking crap was in it too.
the temp was "honda" normal when it was mixed with the brown crap, antifreeze, and water.
ever since it was with water only the temp was was a little above "honda temp".

the car temp. was basically "GM" temp.

thanks smuf so tomarrow or maybe later tonight i'll do that.

but it turns out that it has some leaker sealer in it.
but it overheated too, so the overfill tank became overfilled, and that helped too.
i put some 50/50 antifreeze in, now it's 1/2 way.
but thats when i drive it hard, VERY hard, but when it's at idle for a while it goes to the normal "honda" temp.
and i had her idling for about an 1/2 hour or so, because i was helping out my neighbor.

i'm glad that it was'nt the waterpump.
if it was a t-stat i could've gone to a junk yard and still one, just like i did with the sensor.

but i'm wondering since it's 1/2 way, i know the t-stat is open, and when ever i drive hard, it stays there, is this screwing up the t-stat???

[accordlxi2.0]

okay, i'm getting a bit pissed off now.
the thing was low again after the car cooled off.
so i let it run again, the bottom hose was cold, and the top was warm.
then the gauge reached the "normal" temp.
still no fans.
the stat then opened, at least it felt like it.

tomarrow i'm gonna have to bled it, maybe that'll work...........
right??????

[Immeraufdemhund]

your still getting brown stuff? did you flush out your heater core? Did you run a hose to the upper and lower radiator hoses both on the radiator and the block. umm the water pipe that is on the head. When i flushed mine it did the same brown stuff so i took it out and went to every hose i could find. That cleaned up the rust bit. make sure you switch back and forth which hose you have your water going to. cause the more you switch the more it flushes that crap out of your system. I had to do it 4 or more times to the heater core alone... about a bazillion times to my radiator...and a couple on the other hoses. if it's possible try to have water only coming out of one hose when you have the water hooked up.

adding water is vital to full strength anti freeze. The lubricants in the AF wont activate unless you add water...which in turn hurts your water pump and can gum up some things too. I wouldn't get a tstat from the junk yard...it's only like 5 bucks at the local place.

when your finished add water till your radiator is full, open up the bleeder and have water come out of it. Close it turn on the car and your heat..let the vehicle warm up. When the tstat opens up you'll see the water starting to circulate (when its full in the radiator) when it starts coming out of the radiator on its own put on your cap. turn off the car... add antifreeze to the plastic bottle till it says full.

that's how i was showed to do it in the shop too. should take a good 5-10 minutes minimum to get it right. You should have rather warm air coming out, and a nice clean water when finished. if you think you might have messed up open up the pet cock in a few days to let the stuff settle.. if the AF is still dirty you can try to flush again or else just leave it. It should be good if you took your time at it....thanx for your help again for that stupid van.

[accordlxi2.0]

no problem, yea i'ma try that tomarrow.
well i would've done this tonight but it's dark and in order to remove the screw i would have to take off the distributor ( i have and efi dizzy).

but it's starting to trun green, so even though i got the 50/50 antifreeze i would still have to add water???

[buds302]

your still getting brown stuff? did you flush out your heater core? Did you run a hose to the upper and lower radiator hoses both on the radiator and the block. umm the water pipe that is on the head. When i flushed mine it did the same brown stuff so i took it out and went to every hose i could find. That cleaned up the rust bit. make sure you switch back and forth which hose you have your water going to. cause the more you switch the more it flushes that crap out of your system. I had to do it 4 or more times to the heater core alone... about a bazillion times to my radiator...and a couple on the other hoses. if it's possible try to have water only coming out of one hose when you have the water hooked up.

adding water is vital to full strength anti freeze. The lubricants in the AF wont activate unless you add water...which in turn hurts your water pump and can gum up some things too. I wouldn't get a tstat from the junk yard...it's only like 5 bucks at the local place.

when your finished add water till your radiator is full, open up the bleeder and have water come out of it. Close it turn on the car and your heat..let the vehicle warm up. When the tstat opens up you'll see the water starting to circulate (when its full in the radiator) when it starts coming out of the radiator on its own put on your cap. turn off the car... add antifreeze to the plastic bottle till it says full.

that's how i was showed to do it in the shop too. should take a good 5-10 minutes minimum to get it right. You should have rather warm air coming out, and a nice clean water when finished. if you think you might have messed up open up the pet cock in a few days to let the stuff settle.. if the AF is still dirty you can try to flush again or else just leave it. It should be good if you took your time at it....thanx for your help again for that stupid van.

i was gonna say that until mu fuckin computer crashed its the second time its done that. i had everything typed up and i hit submit post and lock up. oh well i didnt feel like typin it up again cause it wasabout as long as yours. i figured that some one would have said it soon anyway