Weber jetting problems

[Ajamben]

So I got my weber on the car finally, got it running decent last night, timing set to the larger mark in the middle of the three, and idle at about 8-900 in d4. But the mixture screw is out 3-4 turns. This morning it wouldnt run on its own until I turned up the idle seen screw. I drove it to school and everything was okay except for a pretty bad flat spot which I had to mash the pedal down to get over. When I was leaving school it wouldn't stay running again so I turned in the mixture screw about a quarter turn and raised the idle a little more. That worked but it dieseled for about 45 seconds when I shut it off after that. I checked the timing when I got home and it seemed slightly retarded maybe (past the small timing mark towards that's on the top). After that the dieseling stopped but then it would squeal when it shut off. I set the carb back to base settings to see if I could re adjust and get it better but I just can't get it to run on its own now. It'll start but I have to keep giving it gas for it to run. I guess my idle jets are too big? It's a stock 89 dx automatic. Carb is a 32/36 DGAV. Jetting is
Mains - P=140 S=140
Air corrector - P= 170 S=160
Idle- P=60 S=50

It drove fine in higher rps but that's about it. I do need it tomorrow so should I just go with the way backed out mixture screw and more idle speed until the right jets can get here?

[Oldblueaccord]

https://www.3geez.com/forum/carbureto...izes-dcoe.html

Read up, on what cygnus has on that thread.

You are to many turns out sounds like on the idle screws. Something is wrong.
Set the timing at one RPM and leave it there. It will move depending on RPM.

[Ajamben]

I think I found the problem or at least a problem. Sprayed carb cleaner at the base and it revved so I took the carb off and found a good sized Crack that goes through a bolt hole on both sides. The whole top plate is like bent in in the middle. I guess I over tightened it although I didn't really tighten it that much

[Oldblueaccord]

I think I found the problem or at least a problem. Sprayed carb cleaner at the base and it revved so I took the carb off and found a good sized Crack that goes through a bolt hole on both sides. The whole top plate is like bent in in the middle. I guess I over tightened it although I didn't really tighten it that much

Pretty common on used carbs.

I almost always recommend a new carb over a used. Worn throttle bushings on the throttle plate shaft is the other.

Might get lucky with some JB weld and a few base gaskets.

[Ajamben]

Well it was actually on the adapter. The carb and the adapter are new

[2oodoor]

I think I found the problem or at least a problem. Sprayed carb cleaner at the base and it revved so I took the carb off and found a good sized Crack that goes through a bolt hole on both sides. The whole top plate is like bent in in the middle. I guess I over tightened it although I didn't really tighten it that much

Cygnus jetting posts were for a 38 dgs not a 32/36


Warped plate: This happens when the studs turn after the nuts already tight. The squealling you mention kinda told me it was a plate leak.
Its always good to set thes up with as little throttle screw as you can get away with, smoothing things out with advancing base timing and adjusting mix screw. 60 is a good jet and ive always got wonderful idle and part throttle performance with those. I actually ordered 65 for my 38 dgs weber, a bit rich but I love the results since im using automatic trans.

[Oldblueaccord]

Well it was actually on the adapter. The carb and the adapter are new

Can you return it for a new one maybe it was shitty casting on the base plate.