I'm doing a1986 Honda Accord LXI 3 door 2.0 5 speed custom turbo build any questions or any information you can provide me with please do thanks
I'm doing a1986 Honda Accord LXI 3 door 2.0 5 speed custom turbo build any questions or any information you can provide me with please do thanks
Parts purchase to make this build happen
Looks great so far. Looks like you got your hands on the custom Mosselman.
Going forward, you can simply reply to this thread instead of making new threads for each post. I've also moved this to our Forced Induction forum.
- Joe
Okay thank you I'm new to this I have plenty of pictures to post if you have any questions or comments please let me know you can also see my videos on YouTube under 86 Honda Accord turbo build under B.P. Salvage thanks for looking looking
I have had this car for over 10 years.when i first got it the interior and the paint was clean but the motor was a piece of shit .around 300000 miles on a road trip oil light started flashing and I was blowing smoke like a mosquito sprayer made it to my destination and back learn that I couldn't go over 50 or it would blow all my motor oil out the exhaust and smokes come to find out three out of four Pistons were broken in between the Rings so all new Pistons gaskets engine completely rebuilt getting close to four hundred thousand miles it has been a good car and now it's time to show it some love that's why I'm doing this turbo build, I was going to go with this stainless header with a custom a20a flange made but I decided it was easier to purchase the Mosselman turbo header decided there's enough custom handmade work that had to be done
Welcome to the forum. Looks like you're well on your way with your build. There is lots of info on turbo builds on the forum so be sure to search and read some of the other build threads.
I am sure there are many members who can help any turbo questions you might have
My Project thread https://www.3geez.com/forum/project-c...dan-build.html
My Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jdmca5/
Thank you for all the info hash man. Here's what we got for today. CV axle driver side replaced got to keep up with the general maintenance. I don't have that much time I work during the week and my only free time is at night and weekends. here's a couple more pictures of stainless brake lines .engine oil cooler kit. 500 CC turbo fuel injectors and resistor delete plug from osidetiger. motor mounts. upgrade the lighting to the H4 bulbs waiting on parts will keep you updated thanks
Last edited by Shane86; 05-05-2016 at 10:12 PM.
Has anyone ever did a turbo build and kept the stock intake manifold?
Performance brake rotors receive today stainless flex pipe to finish my Turbo downpipe
All Performance brake parts have came in. preparing for installation. Front brake rotors from ATL Autosports .braided stainless steel brake lines rear wheel cylinders
For now engine ARP head studs bisimoto valve springs new head gasket looking into the forged rods but kind of out of my price range right now looking to start at 10 pounds and go from there on the intake you have that tube that runs from the header into the intake. Should I just put a plate to block it and what do you recommend for the EGR valve and tell me a little bit about the 3 bar map sensors I'm building this to work with the car not to tear it up so whatever you think's best
I plan on going with the AEM piggybackr fuel ignition controller and level 2 plus spec clutch kit
Last edited by Shane86; 05-08-2016 at 02:23 PM.
Second set of gauges wire shrink wrap prepped ready for installation
Can anyone tell me about Standalone ECU ?
Can anyone tell me about the Boost Master timing controller will I need anything else to run this system? Or any accessories. Or am I wasting my time with this?
to answer a few questions, 3 bar map sensors are smart to get when boosting a car. but only if your ecu is tunable(aka chipped or standalone) factory Honda map sensors read like 1.3bar(iirc) and running it in positive pressure above 12psi is just a waiting game of when it will fail.
clutch, i dont understand the spec stage 2+ it supposedly hold more than their stage 3... but i do know at 230whp the regular 2 slips. stage 2+ in theory should hold till 240-250.
a full standalone ecu would be awesome but as i told you in pm, id go obd1 and get a full unlocked version of neptune rtp(my choice) or hondata. not cheap but everything uses honda parts so if it brakes you just ride to the closest parts store to fix it. no special sensors. no btm will be needed with obd1 because you van adjust all of that stuff in the tune.
I would like to thank you for being my friend " Waterboy" thank you for all the information i appreciate your help and support a couple more questions what would you recommend as a good clutch kit I want something that's not going to be too herky-jerky and I read several horror stories on the internet about the 6 Puck clutch exploding is that true? And you have any information on throttle body upgrades or should I run stock?
There's not much more to add that @Tdurr didn't already say. I'm doing a similar build to his and will be running most of the same stuff.
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Can I get some of these parts at the junkyard like the distributor and other things I'll need off a newer Honda?
Yes you can I would say a good 30-40 percent of my parts are from the junkyard. But anything that you get from the junkyard should be cleaned. Over rebuilt to make sure that it they will work properly your savings is normally about 60 to 70% even after rebuild. Only things that will cause you problems are down pipes for turbos intercooler piping and injector Fitness but there are ways to work around those
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What's the best year make and model I should get parts from?
How far should stock oxygen sensor be away from Turbo and how far should wideband air fuel ratio sensor be away ?
I don't have a lot of experience with turbo builds myself, but I would do like Tdurr suggested and convert to OBD1 and run something like Hondata. Way more control then a piggy back ECU and not nearly as expensive as a full proper standalone.
From what I have seen, the wideband can be fairly close to the turbo in the downpipe... my suggestion is make sure you can access it easily. As long as there are no leaks between the turbo and the wideband O2 you will get an accurate reading.
What size turbo are you going to be running?
Also, I have seen others run the stock size throttle body, I don't see anything wrong with that, but upgrading to an aftermarket bseries intake manifold and larger throttle body is not a bad choice.
My Project thread https://www.3geez.com/forum/project-c...dan-build.html
My Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jdmca5/
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