Hey. So I got some replica mugen rims, lowered my car. Fixed it to factory health, and detailed my 86 lxi. Now I was wondering what would be the best and most reliable way to get at least 200 HP from my vehicle? Motor build? Swap? Or boost? Help!
Hey. So I got some replica mugen rims, lowered my car. Fixed it to factory health, and detailed my 86 lxi. Now I was wondering what would be the best and most reliable way to get at least 200 HP from my vehicle? Motor build? Swap? Or boost? Help!
It all depends on what you want in an engine .
200 hp is easy enough , rebuild the engine to suit turbocharging and decide how far you want to go.
A few people have swapped b18c , h22a and a few k series swaps going on at the moment , all good for 200 hp but can require aftermarket or custom mounts and mix and match drive shafts .
Or there is the stock block NA way which require no custom mounts , shafts etc .
But 200 hp from an A20 probably will cost a bomb , be a bit of a pig to drive and cost good money .
I personally dont like turbos that much but is probably the most cost effective and easier way to make 200+ hp.
Spend some time searching the forum and see what has been done with swaps , turbo A20a , NA A20a and the odd one of us that have B20a .
So are you technically saying that the a20 is generally unreliable at 200hp? Unless I put in about $4k in the motor?
If you try to make 200 hp NA , an A20 may not be terribly reliable or last for years and years .
A turbo A20 will make 200 plus hp quite happliy , and if built right , last for years of dd treatment .
Ultimately , you have to decide what you want and how much you want to spend ..
Reliable horse power isnt cheap no matter how you get it , NA , turbo or nitrous injection .
I'm in the hole for the better part of 10k in my local currency for my B20a , and it still needs an ecu and exhaust
My Project thread https://www.3geez.com/forum/project-c...dan-build.html
My Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jdmca5/
Yeah, I'm planning on spending at least $3k on the motor. I justed was curious as to what was the most reliable/cost efficient in that budget range. I've also thought of swapping in a type r motor which is 195 Hp. It would be another $2k but at least it's at the power range I'm looking to get.
Best way to make 200HP?
JATO bottle.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
You will need to spend 3k on parts alone .
Not sure on a series bits but b series bits will be much the same.
at least 400 for pistons , same again for H beams , valves 12-16 at 50-100 each ,plus springs another 2-300 , then there are the cheap bits.
Cam gear/s , bearings, gaskets , belts etc etc.
Plus what type of intake and exhaust do you want to run ?
Engine management, ignition , fuel delivery .
$6500 NZ dollars in parts to replace what i have , thats just internals plus machining and assembly costs and the custom intake, injectors .....
If you want to do it right, with the bits to make it last , throw away any idea of a budget , trust me , it never seems to stop costing more and more.
I think i could have bought a good evo 6.5 or R32 gtr for what my accord will have cost by the end of my cars build and it aint no show car
Not trying to put you off or anything , but unless you do go the B18c way for 200 hp , be prepared for some BIG bills and grumpy mrs .
Yeah. I'd rather go with a b18c swap ha
Turbo. Good power and flames with a rich tune.
Note, if you do rebuild an engine for turbo don't give it a super high compression. Also, budget for repairs/preventive maintenance when buying an already pulled engine.
At least someone is Realistic. I trying saying this an people tend to frown on it. I'm like unless you spend lots of money a20 is a money pit. YET again it can be amazing if you do. but at the end of the day. a swap is all it takes.
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
all depends on parts the A20 is known for low parts. this is why most of it has to be modified or put together with a frankenstein of parts. I needed a running engine that is known to make power from factory and still be bang per buck. for me it was a b18c1. the best would of been a b20vtec but i didnt even have time to do that. if you dont want to swap i would just obd1 swap and add a turbo mani to make 200whp.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I was hoping you were going to say something like, "A series has more torque." But so far it sounds like it's only benefit is that it is already in the car. With the research I have done, I won't be able to break 300 torque without a custom crank and a whole lot of boost.
cast iron block is better for boosting .
And 300 what of torque ? lb/ft or nm.
I live in Amurrica, so of course I meen foot pounds. Not Newton meters or inch pounds. Does anyone here measure torque in newton meters? I don't know anyone who does.
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