bscanlan' Hatch Build - The Sequel

[bscanlan]

Don’t know if my engine install pics show it, but utilizing the Cheddas traction bar, which eliminates the center trans mount and the front (engine) bell mount, causes the engine to sag rather considerably on the passenger side. This stresses the driver’s side mount (I also have the Cheddas mount with urethane bushing) more than I am comfortable with. So I fired up the design software and 3D-printed a prototype trans mount that will utilize the auto mount from the passenger side wheel well. Lucky that this is an auto-to-manual (don’t say it Snooz) swap, leaving me that point for a 4th mount. It will utilize the same rubber trans mount that the auto uses in the same location. Also, it attaches where the engine hanger bolts to the trans so I figure that’s a pretty solid point. It’s in plastic right now, but will get it made in the machine shop at school next week or so. I am excited to see if this secures things a bit.

[thegreatdane]

Hi, excellent work you're doing first of all! Regarding your flywheel though, I'm wondering if you milled all three windows larger or just the one pictured? You probably did all 3 (or some other balancing), but just in case it was only the one, then you could very likely have introduced an imbalance large enough to cause noticeable vibration and lead to early failure of bearings or even fatigue failure of the crank. I mention it because judging by that picture it appears to be a rather sizeable lump you milled away.

[bscanlan]

Thanks Dane! Indeed I milled the same amount from all 3 “windows”. I needed that in order for the pressure plate to seat; to alleviate my issue. I do realize that the flywheel was balanced upon production, so I will just have to see what I did once she’s spinning.

[thegreatdane]

Excellent, I'm sure it will run smoothly then. Looking forward to see the build continue!

[bscanlan]

It’s haaaaapeniiiiing…


There is good clearance for the Wilwood 4-piston fronts, and the SEi conversion and new (Rock Auto) rear disks look alright. I am mildly pleased

[bscanlan]

Still plugging along.

[bscanlan]

I need to post some more sideways pictures and ask about some experiences. I checked an older thread that discussed members using redline MTL in a manual transmission. I also looked at the Honda manual transmission fluid, which the Honda website says it’s not compatible with our cars. Finally the service manual talked about using 30 or 40 weight oil. Given how much the weights and viscosities vary, I’m wondering how many of you have a deviated from the service manual recommendation, and what your experiences have been.

[Oldblueaccord]

I need to post some more sideways pictures and ask about some experiences. I checked an older thread that discussed members using redline MTL in a manual transmission. I also looked at the Honda manual transmission fluid, which the Honda website says it’s not compatible with our cars. Finally the service manual talked about using 30 or 40 weight oil. Given how much the weights and viscosities vary, I’m wondering how many of you have a deviated from the service manual recommendation, and what your experiences have been.

Mobile one 10W40. Cant remember for sure maybe 22 years I think I started around the 135k mark when I did the first clutch. Honda fluid was pretty expensive at the time and the synthetic oil was cheaper.

Mileage in my sig but its close to 340k miles no problems. I dont change the fluid unless I have done some kinda work where it got drained.

One thing is I dont use 5th unless im on the highway above 55 mph. Its not made to be lugged around town at 30 mph with you right foot buried to the floor. Even steep long grades on major interstates I use 4th gear, Jellico mtn TN I 75, Ironto Mnt VA I81, I40 Crossvile TN etc.

Just my 2 cents. Happy New year.

PS I know its funny comments on the FBooks page, but please please please do not use GL5 80w90. Youll loose you syncros in less than a year.

[Jinnai]

I'm using Synchromesh in mine, but it also keep popping out of 1st gear, so I don't know. The other gears still work great and it's got 250k miles, so it might not be the synchromesh's fault.

[ShiRen]

Any mtf or the sae 30 or 40 weight engine oil will work fine, these trans don't seem to give a damn, however, I don't think I will ever put engine oil into a trans, this is 2022, we have good oils made for the environment of a transmission.
Honestly kind of surprised axle oil didn't work, but might be too thick for itty bitty synchro teeth. I bet atf would work fine even.

[conozo]

Any mtf or the sae 30 or 40 weight engine oil will work fine, these trans don't seem to give a damn, however, I don't think I will ever put engine oil into a trans, this is 2022, we have good oils made for the environment of a transmission.
Honestly kind of surprised axle oil didn't work, but might be too thick for itty bitty synchro teeth. I bet atf would work fine even.

I agree. Since we dont have any wet clutches or LSD, its just a box-o-gears we can run just about anything.

[Dr_Snooz]

I've run Honda MTF for a long time. But my MTs all seem to go to heaven within 50k miles of my getting them. So I guess you should avoid Honda MTF in that case.

[bscanlan]

Thanks for all the thoughts folks. I ended up going with Mobile 1 - 10W-40. We shall see…

[Oldblueaccord]

Mobile one 10W40. Cant remember for sure maybe 22 years I think I started around the 135k mark when I did the first clutch. Honda fluid was pretty expensive at the time and the synthetic oil was cheaper.

Mileage in my sig but its close to 340k miles no problems. I dont change the fluid unless I have done some kinda work where it got drained.

One thing is I dont use 5th unless im on the highway above 55 mph. Its not made to be lugged around town at 30 mph with you right foot buried to the floor. Even steep long grades on major interstates I use 4th gear, Jellico mtn TN I 75, Ironto Mnt VA I81, I40 Crossvile TN etc.

Just my 2 cents. Happy New year.

PS I know its funny comments on the FBooks page, but please please please do not use GL5 80w90. Youll loose you syncros in less than a year.

The GL5 rated on oil like 80w90 85w/140 have a additive that will eat yellow metals. its all over the internets for your search criteria. Those oils are fine in most hypoid gear car rear ends currently being manufactured. They kinda forgot about the old manual transmissions of yor that called for 80w90. The GL1-3 is probably find but its never available.

Theres a guy here at work uses 80w90 and were eating up the gears boxes as fast as we can get them changed out. I keep reminding him its 2022 not 1972.

[ShiRen]

I did not know that, very strange. Seems to be true, but my search results shows some staunch deniers about GL5 corroding synchros, very confusing, at least if you are trying to pinpoint what causes it. Seems like some oils are fine and others are not... I would just play it safe and use mtf, but I guess theres even old trans that use GL5

[Oldblueaccord]

I did not know that, very strange. Seems to be true, but my search results shows some staunch deniers about GL5 corroding synchros, very confusing, at least if you are trying to pinpoint what causes it. Seems like some oils are fine and others are not... I would just play it safe and use mtf, but I guess theres even old trans that use GL5

https://www.rymax-lubricants.com/upd...gl-4-and-gl-5/

its the EP additives.

https://www.api.org/-/media/Files/Ce...April-2013.pdf

Try getting you prized numbers matching Munice 4 speed totally rebuilt and lunching it in 4 months like my buddy did in his Chevelle.