I believe this may be a source, among others, of a leak on my 88 Accord. Just wondering what is the best approach to replacing the gasket. Can it be done from either underneath the car or from above by removing air intake box to make some space? If it has to be from under the car, can it be done without removing the half axle?
Any suggestions on where to buy these gaskets?
11/22/13: edited to correct one word in 2nd sentence.
Last edited by derolph; 11-22-2013 at 08:19 AM.
1988 Accord LX-i 2-door coupe, 205K miles, updated 1/4/18.
Hello derolph
I did mines from under the car, but it was a chore. I couldn't see far anough up under the car so it was feeling only. I removed the oil filter and sender connection and remove the bolts. I also replaced the sender since I was there already. tried an after market sender but it failed after a month or two. replace it with a honda one and the oil light went out and everything was back to normal. if you still see a leak then it might be the short hose leading off from the oil pan. that one is a nightmare to get off and replace.
I replaced mine from the top and it was also difficult lol, but at least I could see. This was best for me since my airbox is already off. The sensor is the worst part of it all. I had to use a mirror to help me see while I cleaned the block and to put the bolts back in.
I think stuggling with it is still easier than taking off the entire intake manifold...
Definitely attack that one from the top after removing the air box. Working under the car will be a mess and impossible to see.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Nah, just get a stubby light. Amazon.com: General Manufacturing 3613-3500 Stubby II Light with 40 ft. Reel: AutomotiveOriginally Posted by Dr_Snooz
All you need.
That light isn't going to help you see through the axle shaft that lies directly under the oil filter base.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I guess if you have a car lift, going from the bottom isn't as bad but otherwise no elbow room.
Might be a little late. But do it from the top. Takes like 10-20min. Just take off the stock air box if you have one. Drop the alternator from just the top bolt. And slide it down or back. Just move it lol. Then remove your oil filter, and the oil sending unit. Just remove it now makes it easier. There's 3"10mm bolts I believe. Just use a socket with extension. Its very visible where the bolts are just by looking from between the firewall and the intake. And viola. After the 3 bolts are remove there ya have it. A rock hard leaky gasket. Your local Honda dealer should have them. Remember to not over tighten the mount cause its aluminum. And it WILL crack. And when you put that sending unit back in. Same deal. Don't over tighten it WILL crack. A d you WILL be buying a new base mount. Not hard to find just dumb mistakes made while work with aluminum. I learned and made my mistake once. Bought a snap on torque wrench a day later. With that being said if you do it from the top. Its an easy 15min job
I am doing mine this weekend, and will use your tips and try from the top. For some reason I have been postponing this one. I will use new bolts though, don't want to run into breaking a bolt.
You are good...but I've seen better.
1989 LX AT
300,000
Thanks to everyone for the comments. I will definitely start from the top and see how it goes.
1988 Accord LX-i 2-door coupe, 205K miles, updated 1/4/18.
Did you guys use a torque wrench when tightening the bolts to reinstall the housing/base? I found a specification of 9 ft-lbs in a Haynes manual. I don't have a torque wrench that is accurate at small torque specs.
1988 Accord LX-i 2-door coupe, 205K miles, updated 1/4/18.
Ideally you would want to torque to spec, but if you don't have one, I would suggest to tighten them in equal increments. For what I understand, the housing is sensitive to over torque and can crack if too tight. If you have a harbor freight nearby, you can pick a torque wrench from 5 to 80 ft-lbs for 12 bucks. Just so you can have a piece of mind. If you can, use new bolts.
You are good...but I've seen better.
1989 LX AT
300,000
I have the base mount off now but have not been able to get the gasket off the engine block yet. I've been trying to pry at it with a utility knife but no luck yet. I was wondering whether some solvent such as mineral spirits or WD40 might help loosen it.
1988 Accord LX-i 2-door coupe, 205K miles, updated 1/4/18.
Try soaking it in WD40, PB Blaster or even mineral spirits. Just whatever you use to scrap it, just be careful so it doesn't gouge the surface of the block. A small steel pick may work too, I would just dull the tip.
You are good...but I've seen better.
1989 LX AT
300,000
Well, I used wood chisel to break it loose. The old gasket broke into about 6 pieces before I got all of it off. I was concerned about gouging the block. It seems to be OK.
Another concern is getting crude into the crankcase through the holes during all this blindly working on a dirty area.
1988 Accord LX-i 2-door coupe, 205K miles, updated 1/4/18.
This is probably the greatest case of exaggeration I have ever heard.
1988 Accord LX-i 2-door coupe, 205K miles, updated 1/4/18.
I agree, now if tbe motor was out or you had the hood and the intake manifold off it could maybe take 15 min.
There , another suggested method, on topic.
Is replacement of the sender worth doing if no issues are evident regarding the sender? I gather the sender is the oil pressure sensor. What signs would indicate replacement is needed?
1988 Accord LX-i 2-door coupe, 205K miles, updated 1/4/18.
No need to replace the sender. It doesn't do anything anyway. The standard oil light only comes on at some ridiculously low pressure like 3 psi. Your time and energy would be much better spent installing a proper oil pressure gauge. I burned up my last engine without ever seeing a light.
It's best not to attack the old gasket with anything sharp. Don't use any solvents that might dribble down into the oil pan either. A gasket scraper is a good investment here and even a standard putty knife will do the job well enough.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
The gasket replacement seems to be a success. The oil burn smell from oil dripping on the exhaust has stopped. I still have leaks and have more detective work to identify them but replacing the oil filter stand gasket was definitely worthwhile.
The wood chisel worked for me. Although it is sharp, I did not jab or poke at the gasket; I carefully used more of a scraping or prying technique to get the old gasket off. And, the length of the chisel made the job easier, I believe, than a shorter-handled tool. After getting the gasket off and cleaning the base, I ran my finger over it to search for any indentations or deep scratches from removing the gasket and found none; it was smooth.
1988 Accord LX-i 2-door coupe, 205K miles, updated 1/4/18.
I did mine from the top in one hour without changing the sender..........still leaked. so I picked up a sender just to be sure and took it apart again cleaned everything again (solvent and scotch bright pad) re-assembled and good to go 1.5 hours. there is an old joke around the shop.....no time to do it right but there is time to do it twice lol
what are we scraping off here? the oil filter base gasket is a special O ring gasket. nothing to scrape it should come right offNo need to replace the sender. It doesn't do anything anyway. The standard oil light only comes on at some ridiculously low pressure like 3 psi. Your time and energy would be much better spent installing a proper oil pressure gauge. I burned up my last engine without ever seeing a light.
It's best not to attack the old gasket with anything sharp. Don't use any solvents that might dribble down into the oil pan either. A gasket scraper is a good investment here and even a standard putty knife will do the job well enough.
@ lostforawhile: Here's the post to which I was replying. Honestly, I don't know what the difficulty was.It seemed to be a greater undertaking than an oring should warrant, but a struggle it was. I don't know why. I just didn't want him dumping a bunch of solvent into his oil pan or destroying the sealing surface on the block.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I had access to a lift when I replaced mine, I had to take the sensor out from the top but got the housing out from the bottom. It was a pain but I managed to get it replaced in a couple hours. There was very little room to turn any tools up there, and the axle was right in the way. It did stop the leak though, so I guess it was worth it!
that's weird that it stuck that bad, maby it overheated at one point or something, I've never seen one stick, take out the bolts,if needed tap it with a rubber hammer to dislodge it.@ lostforawhile: Here's the post to which I was replying. Honestly, I don't know what the difficulty was.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks