When to change thermostat and radiator cap?

[Einstein]

I have the feeling the original thermostat and radiator cap is on my car.

Has ANYONE ever had a problem with cooling system failure of some kind, because they DIDN'T change these items?

I'm at the point where I wonder if some of the things I'm considering doing are overkill for a "beater" car.

[Lester Lugnut]

Thermostat - sooner or later it will fail to open properly and you'll overheat, possibly enough to blow a cyl head gasket.

Coolant cap - sooner or later it will fail to hold pressure and once again you're car will overheat.

It's tough to say exactly how often to change these parts. Alot has to do with your source....ie....dealer parts are MUCH better than after market. You could likely run dealer t-stat/coolant cap alot longer than the junk sold at say Auto Zone or Pep Boys.

My 2 cents.

[ACCORD EX]

i don't change these parts unless they fail !


MIKE

[accordboricua]

I have to replace the thermostat on my car but it's because it is not closing and whenever I go donw a long hill or mountain, ok I ilve in Puerto Rico we got a lot of those here, the temp gauge drops almost completely. So it may be either way, or it heats up or it cools down.

[Einstein]

Originally posted by Einstein

Has ANYONE ever had a problem with cooling system failure of some kind, because they DIDN'T change these items?

So far no one has said YES to my question (based on actual experience).

[shepherd79]

i never had one but best friend with 88 carberd accord had problems with his termostat.
his termostat was broked in half. i don't know how it didn't jam the engine.
if tempereture changes dramaticly, i would say it is termostat is sticking.
any auto parts store sells them under $5.

[dj99]

I just changed out my thermostat and radiator cap last week. I had decided that my 88 would be better off with the new orange, silicate-free coolant that would help protect the water pump from premature failure (4 pumps so far, 2 failed, 2 preventative). Anyway, in order to fully flush out the engine block & heater core, I pulled the thermostat and replaced it with an aftermarket one w/gasket for about $10. The original looked really good, and had a much bigger copper "bullet" than the new one, but I decided to put the new one in anyway. The original radiator cap had deep rings in the rubber seal, obvious signs of age. Replaced it for around $5.

One thing I'm worried about is that when I was inspecting the old thermostat, there was some oil that came out of it. I didn't notice it anywhere else. What could that mean? (Bracing myself!)

[89AccordCpe]

I had a thermostat get stuck and the fans wouldn't come on, so the car would heat up on hot days when it was standing still and idling. Never had a problem with the radiator cap though.

[CoAsTeR]

Time to change.... NOW.

if you hadn't already done it when you got the car, or recently... I'd say do it ASAP. They are both easy cheap maintenance but if either one of those ever failed, it could cost you big $$$$ and frustration.

When I first bought my car earlier this year I didn't do either one of those...... then one day sitting and ideling my car exploded with rad fluid.

My rad cap never did its job relieving the pressure..... and the rad exploded and ripped open at the BOTTOM, not the top like usual. But if I were to have just done those 2 simple maintenance steps, I probably coulda saved myself a couple hundred bucks.

[Einstein]

Seems like it's cheap insurance to replace these two components with genuine Honda parts.

Thanks for the replies.

[dj99]

I posted this in another thread, but while you're changing your thermostat...

While your're all checking your green coolant, here's something to think about. Somewhere along the line, Honda has changed their ONLY recommended coolant to the extended life, orange type.

From their owner's website:
"Honda Genuine Antifreeze/Coolant
Honda Genuine Antifreeze/Coolant offers unmatched protection and performance. Most other coolants contain borates and/or silicates which can act as abrasives in your Honda's cooling system, causing premature seal wear and leakage. What's more, new Honda Genuine Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 features extended protection for up to 5 years or 60,000 miles - making it the only recommended coolant for your Honda."

My last water pump lasted just under 2 years. The shop said maybe there was sand in the casting. Bull, there was sand in the green coolant in the form of silicates! I did a complete flush and changeover.

[Einstein]

Originally posted by dj99
I posted this in another thread, but while you're changing your thermostat...

While your're all checking your green coolant, here's something to think about. Somewhere along the line, Honda has changed their ONLY recommended coolant to the extended life, orange type.

This is not true, unless I have become color blind.

Honda's type II antifreeze is a complete mix (don't add water) and it's GREEN. I know because I just used it, and it's also what comes from the factory in my S2000. The first time you are to change this coolant is 10 years or 120,000. So it's good stuff.

I used the "orange" stuff in my 92 Civic and it made the water pump leak. I later found out that it is not anywhere near what Honda's product is (in fact, you shouldn't mix it!)

[dj99]

Now I have to know exactly what Honda's coolant is made out of.

[CARBurn]

How much is the honda coolant?

I just did a complete flush and fill and changed my thermostat and radiator cap. The fluid was all dirty and rusty, like it hasn't been changed in awhile. Just bought the car last year.

[Einstein]

Originally posted by CARBurn
How much is the honda coolant?

I just did a complete flush and fill and changed my thermostat and radiator cap. The fluid was all dirty and rusty, like it hasn't been changed in awhile. Just bought the car last year.

Honda's Premium Type II cost me $10.68 per gallon at the dealer's parts window. My friend wasn't there to give me my "nice guy" discount

[dj99]

So what color was it Einstein?

(No sarcasm intended)

[dj99]

Sorry, don't answer that! Cause you already did.

I just can't believe that Honda would make a product that is like all the orange antifreeze out there, but make it green, like the old kind. They even say in their literature that it's unlike 95% of all of the rest out there.

Whatever

[dj99]

Yeah, I know this is getting old, but I thought I'd throw this into the mix:

http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/HondaCoolant.html

It is actual honda info talking about how their coolant is better because it doesn't have silicates or borates and has something to protect aluminum engines. Isn't that what the orange stuff is?

[Einstein]

I share this guy's opinion...

http://autorepair.about.com/library/.../aa052601c.htm

Spec Sheet on Dexcool (doesn't help but doesn't hurt):

http://thegenesisnetwork.equilon.com...EZECOOLANT.pdf

[dj99]

Thanks for that. Maybe I shouldn't have switched. I will live with whatever happens.

I would still like to know if Honda really has a unique formula, or if that's BS.

The orange stuff (prestone and xerex) both have ingredient lists. Both of them list "proprietary" corrosion inhibitors. Does the Honda coolant list its ingredients?

(The second link didn't work)

[vtec11]

Guys,

dosn't someone make the coolant for honda. i mean, honda dosn't make its own coolant, oil, ATF, etc...

right?

[dj99]

A company named CCI makes honda coolant.

[Einstein]

Originally posted by vtec11
Guys,

dosn't someone make the coolant for honda. i mean, honda dosn't make its own coolant, oil, ATF, etc...

right?

I would expect whoever makes it does so to Honda's spec, and probably helped Honda develop their spec based on the materials used throughout their engines.

[Einstein]

Tonight I replaced the thermostat, and the radiator cap is on it's way (they sent me the right pressure, but wrong size). By the looks of the thermostat, I'm glad I replaced it (and also glad hparts.com remembered to include the rubber gasket, sold separatedly).

I've also replaced the coolant for the second time. The stuff going in is clear green (Honda premium type II), but the stuff coming out is still quite dark. I'm going to change it again this fall after more stuff has loosened up into the fluid, and I'll have fresh protection for the winter. Flushing might have been in order, but I prefer to do it this way because it's less harsh and probably won't start a new leak.